: studs vs. inserts

Harry Yarnell
02-19-10, 10:20 AM
Been awhile since I've logged on to persue other interests.
Can I use my Tymesert installation tools (drill, tap) to install headstuds?
Have two vehicles ('97,98) that need headgaskets.

02-19-10, 10:42 AM
when you order the stud kit, a believe the tools are included to allow you to install them
studs are way better then inserts, you can pull the heads off quicker with studs if you need to in the future, and also allow for more even torque across the head.

02-19-10, 01:49 PM
Yup all the tooling is included, except for the tap handle and 1/2" electric drill that you'll need to run the bit down the holes.... $349 for each additional set of studs, nuts, and washers so that you can do another engine.

Harry Yarnell
02-19-10, 02:30 PM
Maybe I wasn't too clear; I've installed Tymeserts in 3-4 engines. I'd like to use (if possible) the SAME insert tools to install the studs, instead of buying installation tooling all over again. In other words, can I buy just the studs, and use the tooling I've already have?

02-19-10, 03:13 PM
I can tell you that won't work: The thread diameter and pitch for the studs is different than that of the inserts.

02-19-10, 05:43 PM
Stud alignment is critical. Tapping the block straight is critical. This is why I normally don't sell just the studs to anyone without them first buying the whole kit. While some studs still need adjustments once installed to be perfectly in line, I want people to have a positive experience installing the studs- the less adjustment necessary to slip the gasket and head over, the better. Many times no adjustment is necessary.

The plate included in the kit is a six inch square piece of .375" thick steel (3/8" thick). Welded solidly in place are four bushings, (on an accurate and flat jig) 1" in diameter, with one hole being the tap bushing and the opposite corner the drill bushing. The other two corners are the bushings where the bolts pass through to hold the fixture down on the block. All bushings are CNC machined to close tolerances.

Included to hold the fixture plate down are four bolts, 2 are 5/8"x11, and two are custom CNC machined M11x1.5 bolts. It is very hard to find anyone to machine M11 bolts and these are expensive. Depending on the kit (93-99 or 00-03) the two M11 bolts can be two different lengths to accomodate the deeper holes on the bottom row of the 00-03 blocks. The 04-05 difference is only the bolts to hold the plates down. These are M11x2.0.

I am constantly working on improvements to the kit and some are going to take place very soon. One of these improvements is rolled threads. Both ends of the studs are going to be rolled. Another is the fixture plate - something will change soon to speed up the whole process and make the install easier and quicker.

The weight of each kit is 15 lbs. I don't exactly know how solid the other kit's fixture plates are but I know that the fixture plate I sell with the kits are heavy and solid and will not flex, warp, or bend under normal use.

02-19-10, 05:51 PM
Pretty impressive description, Jake - I don't think anyone could ever question your commitment and dedication to offering the best possible product for your target market.

Richard Moore

02-20-10, 09:21 PM
Hi Jake,

My 98 STS is at the shop and needs a HG job. I have been following your experiences for a while and I would love to have you do the job (yes I saw your unbelievable $1320 offer) but distance (425 mi) and time make that "almost" impossible. The next best thing seems to be your kit and I'm interested in finding out about the upgrade to the kit. How soon and can you elaborate a little bit, please??

Sorry for hijacking this thread . . . by the way, the original poster Harry Yarnell is an experienced, gifted mechanic well known on the Buick Reatta forum!