: occasional driver or pass doors not opening from the inside



jude_s1
02-06-10, 12:51 PM
Hi XLR owners quick question? Has anyone experienced any problems with there doors or drivers door not opening with the inside door button but only on occasion. and then i have to use the manual release. thanks Jude:cool2:

ccclarke
02-06-10, 02:23 PM
Since both doors are exhibiting the same kind of intermittent fault, the problem is most likely something common to both. The door handle switch requests are handled by their respective door modules which provide a ground path. The door open request is also routed to the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver which provides voltage to the door switches. This makes the RCDLR (or a connection in the path) suspect. A Tech 2 can be used to verify the hardware involved and the integrity of the signal paths, but until you get a hard fault, or shake a harness to create one, troubleshooting this type of problem will be harder.

CC

jude_s1
02-07-10, 01:33 PM
Sounds Good It seems to be happening more so hopefully they will pick it up I guess I "ll See how Good my XLR tech. is Thanks. I am an ex gm tech myself but i retired in 02 So I can understand much of whats still going on .Thank you.:hmm:

ccclarke
02-07-10, 05:02 PM
If you're lucky, there will be a DTC in History waiting when the Tech 2 is connected. Unlike most of the GM vehicles produced in '04, the XLR has two buses (a standard, Class 2 and the newer, high-speed GMLAN.) With a CANdi module attached allowing bi-directional communications, it's easy to monitor and activate different funtions in the vehicle to narrow down where the problem lies. I sprung for a Tech 2 last summer, rather than buy an extended warranty, and don't regret it a bit. Just about any issue with the XLR needs a Tech 2 to troubleshoot effectively; even the seats and door switches, since the control signals are sent via Class 2, rather than applying voltages, grounds or activating relays like in the past. These methods are still in use, but are digitally-controlled by function-specific modules.

As the Price of Admission Drops, the Hidden Costs of Ownership Increases:

In the next year, as the price for higher-milage, out-of-warranty, '04 XLRs breaks the $20k barrier making them more affordable to those who have waited for a bargain, forums like this are going to be populated with simple questions for help with very expensive problems. Beyond the lower sales prices that will drive many would-be owners to make the jump, are hidden, high maintenance expenses that many will overlook or ignore. Constant trips to the dealership for repairs aren't cheap, and a Tech 2 is necessary for troubleshooting as I previously stated. You are gambling when servicing an XLR at a non-dealership, since it's such a specialized vehicle. I would never take mine to a dealership unless it has an XLR-certified tech.



For those contemplating the purchase of a "cheap" XLR soon, be aware that the '04s and '05s were the most problematic; especially where the top sensors/switches are concerned. If a sensor goes out, ($50-$75) you not only pay for replacement, but re-calibration of the top to record the new sensor values. If the top's hydraulic pump goes South, that's around $2500 for the repair. Lose a headlight due to a rock, and you're out another $1000. Cruise control doesn't work? Be prepared to shell out $2k. The headlight "bargains" populating eBay for $250 are nearly always replaced units that have crazed (melted-looking) orange DRLS. And like a Theft-lock stereo, most replaced modules have to be programmed and/or calibrated with a Tech 2.

Radiators and power steering pumps on both years have been upgraded to those installed in later models, since there were reliability issues. (My radiator was replaced 3 times! Power steering pump only once.)

Don't get me wrong. The XLR is a fantastic vehicle; fun to drive, comfortable and has lots of cool tech. If you can find one that has a great maintenance history, a previous owner who took proper care of it, and have the funds to keep it running when it does act up, go for it!

I've seen a number of posts on XLR forums by impulsive buyers who just, "have to have one" --only to experience buyer's remorse when the sales price is eclipsed by more-than-expected downtime, limited parts availability, high out-of-pocket maintenance costs and higher insurance premiums than what they bargained for. It's just a car. Don't get emotional, do your homework and wait for the right deal and you'll own a relatively rare vehicle, that will as much fun to wash as it is to drive.

Sorry, I didn't mean to get off-topic here. My hope is that this helps at least one person make an informed purchase!

CC

jude_s1
02-10-10, 04:10 AM
Thanks and I think I am going to invest in a tech 2 its always better to know whats going on even if you bring your car in for service.I got a complete report from the dealer on my car. and it seems a lot of small items were replaced when the car had about 15 k mi it had two new headlights installed a new factory stereo drivers seat cushion cover front seat back cover i am guessing the seat heater was not working.remote control door lock transmitter battery replacement.at 10k head lamp washer nozzle hole cover.steering suspension and ride control connector and wiring, at 5 k it got a new radiator,some bulbs and sockets o2 sensor, and a pcm at 5kmi.another batt. replaced at 3k fuel tank fuel pump module at 228 mi.front grill upgrade to v style 228 mi.also a rear trunk lid switch at225mi. so this car has had a lot problems repaired in a 5 year period the car has 22 k now and i have a gmpp warranty for 2 more years and 36k mi I bought the warranty when i got the car but i got the warranty were i used to work at Chevrolet. I paid 1200. for 2 years 36k bumper to bumper.I thought it was a good deal.:rant2:thanks for reading my rant.

ccclarke
02-11-10, 02:39 AM
The GMPP warranty is the ONLY one that covers the top, so you did good. I had to choose between an extended warranty or a Tech 2. Neither were cheap, but at the end of the warranty period, or if I sell the car, I'd still have a tool I could sell to someone else and recoup some of my expenses. With a set of shop manuals, a Tech 2, and big savings from gmpartsdirect.com I can handle the majority of the issues that crop up. Plus, it's just plain fun to work on a car like this, once you understand how its integrated systems work.

Looks like you had most of the main issues common to early XLRs taken car of. Surprisingly, this is a fantastic vehicle for road trips (--with the top up.) And with the number of options included as standard features, it doesn't need as many mods to make it better. I installed a Corsa exhaust, replaced the cabin light bulbs with white LEDs, upgraded the rear decklid with the XLR monogrammed logo, and put in a hidden XM antenna -rather than install the rear deck, "wart" and I was good to go!

Enjoy your ride,

CC

ewill3rd
02-11-10, 08:19 AM
What I find most on these for the original symptom is a failure of the outside door handles.
There are 2 sets of contacts in the handle and sometimes one will go bad and register active. If this happens it won't open the door but the computer will see a false open request and if it happens for a long enough period the inside door release button will not work.
If you have a scan tool you can verify it by looking at the data stream for the driver's door for an active status input from the outside handle. You might have to fiddle with the switch to get it to act up.

Easy as pie to fix, 2 screws and a connector. I don't think the handle even costs that much.
I have seen this a number of times on local cars.

alarmu
05-08-10, 03:33 PM
Listen to ccclarke and ewill3rd they both know what they are talking about. If you ever smell gas and someone tells you it is because you sit so close to the fill hole do not believe them. My 2007's gas tank split at the seam.

alarmu12
01-22-11, 05:33 AM
Keep in mind the doors will not open with the push button if the transmission is not in park. You must push the unlock button first, if it is not in park.

bhchase
01-30-11, 08:37 PM
Mr Clark or anybody, i have read several posts of radiator problems on the XLR. How did you find the problem, leak, overheating,, etc?

ccclarke
01-31-11, 03:32 PM
Usually, the first indication of a radiator issue is a big puddle on your garage floor. The seams were splitting near the base. 04 and 05's were symptomatic (your profile doesn't indicate what year your XLR is) with lots of radiator failures (mine was replaced twice in the first year before I bought it.) Subsequent installation of the heavier-duty XLR-V radiators by dealerships when the originals failed cut the failure rate considerably. Luckily, this is a relatively inexpensive repair (in the XLR universe.) Hope this helps.

CC C

santa
04-21-11, 06:49 AM
check for the proper alignment of the doors.

Doug Doty
01-29-12, 04:46 PM
I was researching here for the most likely cure for a intermitent outside door handle situation, mine even failed on the inside once as stated could happen above.

Can someone help me with where to find my part # online when I am looking for a part like this so I don't have to ask. I think if the cost is not crazy I will replace my driver side after reading everything I can find.

Doug...

ccclarke
01-30-12, 11:47 PM
gmpartsdirect.com or gmpartsgiant.com are just two of the lower-priced oline OEM parts dealers.

CCC

alarmu12
02-15-12, 09:00 PM
mr clark or anybody, i have read several posts of radiator problems on the xlr. How did you find the problem, leak, overheating,, etc?
Water dripping on the floor.