: 01 Eldorado ETC - Front Strut Replacement
01-28-10, 09:35 AM
My 01 Coupe requires new front struts and mounts, the dealer quote me 2,350 dollars for the parts. After doing some reseacrh over the past few days, which lead me to this site, never the less, I found the Monroe Strut - "Front Shock Absorber;Front ; Left, Specialty ; w/Elect Adj Susp, 2 Per Veh;Specialty; Years: 2001-2001;" they claim to be a direct replace for the OEM strut currently of the vehicle. The price is very affortable at 525 each not including the mounts, of course.
My question are
1. Has anybody use these as replacements?
2. Is the ride dramatically different?
3. Are these direct replacements for the OEM?
4. Should I replace the bellows as well?
I plan on ordering the struts tomorrow, because I don't want to continue to drive my hog and cause more damage. This is my 5th Cadillac, so far I have owned 94 STS, 89 Coupe Deville (my favorite), 00 ETC, 02 DTS, and now 01 ETC so I know you got to take care of slab.
Any help would greatly appreciated
02-03-10, 06:28 PM
Front suspension parts arrived yesterday and have been installed today...while replacing the suspension, decided to replace the rotors and pads all the way around and the brake calipers and brackets on rears. Just to add a few more dollars back into the system, add a tune up and radiator flush. I have a really good and reasonable service shop.
Issues and a concerns:
When the car was finish my mech said the rotors show signs of vibration (I purchased the dimpled and slotted), I got worried at this point, so I call the rotor manufactor to see if this was a problem and how to make this situation right. After speaking with the manufactor they instructed me to perform this procedure of driving the car at 40 mph then slowing down to 5 mph without stopping, repeat 10 - 15 times, and if the problem persisted to call back. I didn't know of an area close by me try this procedure.
So I ruffed it and drove home, I figured my trip home was about 40 miles plus a few stops along away. So drove home like a mad man to accomplish the procedure thats right I performed this while home not quite breaking down to 5 mph but close enough that I know I few people thought I was off something more the alcohol...anyway by the time I got home the car was stopping on dime. As for the strut they are performing up to snuff so far. I may make a major road trip this weekend to put the car though paces.
The radiator flush and tune up I think where needed as I just purchased the car and that HG thing...I was unable to really drive the car as for I had my girl in the car...stay tune I will go for the alignment and maybe tires tomorrow if the funds permit...
02-03-10, 07:14 PM
I have an '00 ETC and want to use these when the time comes -- pls update when you take your road trip on how you like!
02-04-10, 10:04 PM
Car drove well, engine seemed to have a little more kick than before, major tune show signs of pay off.
Suspension was supherb and handling was great.
Brakes show minor signs of vibration but after applying a few more hard stop from high speeds appying assessive pressure, no vibration as I put her though the paces today.
Then and oh no what is never really going...SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT....wow after I drop some serious coin yesterday
back to the shop tomorrow...hopefully this is minor....just a sensor...guess this cancel new tires for pearly....
Oh forgot to mention got the alignment and rotated the tires today....stay tune
02-05-10, 01:07 AM
The Monroe struts work fine, I used them in my 2000 STS without any issues for 2 years and counting.
To 01Coupe: Pull the codes before you take your Eldo to the shop. Could be a minor issue you can fix yourself (if you replaced your own struts, this shouldn't be an issue). The procedure for pulling codes is on the Seville/Eldo forum as a sticky.
02-12-10, 11:12 PM
Thank for the information on the codes....
Took Pearly in today, to see why the hog is showing more error codes the windows vista.
First Code was P0122 - Right wheel sensor, its has to do with the wheel bearing sensor, cost about 250 not including labor. Linked to ABS intermittent failure.
Second Code was Fuel Pressure Sensor didnt get the code for this on, cost about 150 not including labor. This sensor was link to the Service Engine Soon light.
So 600 bills later, I am back behind the wheel, warning light free for 60 miles and counting.
Still having a slight hum from the brakes when stopping at high speeds rapidly...need to talk to someone the dippled rotors to see if I performed the boaring process correctly, any suggestion would be welcomed. I am thinking these rotors are not worth the trouble (they look awhfully good) but if they make any noise it not worth it, a cadillac should be quiet as new born sleeping.
I will do a little more research on this process...remember its a cadillac life drive hard
02-15-10, 11:39 PM
Okay party people, after days of unrest about my braking situation; I sought professional help from the guys at motorsports shop near me.
I asked the gentlemen if he could assist me, now mind you they dont work any american cars except corvettes, so he asked me what was the problem, so I explain my issue that when braking at high speeds my dippled and slotted rotors vibrate when stopping, then I told him what that the manufactor suggested a boaring process to rid me of this vibration (They said drive and stop from 40 to 10 would do the trick this important as you on) guy ask me if the car was outside, he look at the rotors, then to my suprise he ask if he could drive the car, so after the guy pushes Pearly well past 70 then applies the brake hard but not to hard down to about 10, then we buck corner then off to 70 again another hard brake down to 15 and then we flip a *&**& in the middle of the street. After the first braking he begins to tell me that the rotors are fine the noise is because the rotors werent fully bedded. Bedding is the correct process for breaking in all rotors not just slotted and/or dimpled rotors. You must repeat high speed driving and braking process for about about eight to ten times before the rotor are bedded, you may to repeat the depending on the size of rotor. He also said that it takes about 500 mile to have the rotor fully bedded with the brake pad and that to my suprise also told me I need to drive the car harder to achive fully bedding rotors.
Now the car stop like should, they]re is some hum at the end of a high speed brake due to the dimpled and slotted rotor, and its a noise I can live with because if you are talk low you couldnt hear it.
I have included this write up decribing this process in details below.
How to Bed-in Your Brakes
by Dave Zeckhausen
Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even if you've purchased a brand new car, you should set aside some time to bed the brakes in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors. For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In.
Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power. Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.
If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating.
Read and understand these instructions completely before starting. If you have any questions, give us a call or email. Do not substitute higher speeds for the 60mph called for in these instructions. The heat in your brakes goes up exponentially as you increase the speed from which you brake. If you make repeated stops from 80 or 90mph with street pads, you will overheat the brakes and may end up having to replace pads and/or rotors.
When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. A police officer will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.
From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.
Now, I just need to replace the oxygen sensors to remove the service engine soon light. I will handle that this weekend and Pearly should be ready for a serious road trip I am think about 500 each way should be enough to air her out proper like....stay tune