This job isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Except for the metal sleeve removal. Brian's (PISINUOFF) is ESSENTIAL for this.
You need the following tools:
Extractor tool (contact PISINUOFF)
21mm gear wrench (diff bolts)
21mm socket (bolt head on bushing bolt)
3/4 sockets (for extractor tool)
8mm allen wrench socket (driveshaft bolts)
Blue Loctite (to use on driveshaft bolts)
Wrenches for your exhaust bolts (Mine were 11/16" and 5/8" for B&B exhaust)
The diff does NOT have to be removed in order to get old bushing out/new bushing in. I drove mine up on ramps, and it gave me enough room to work on it.
Remove the exhaust.
Then remove the 6 bolts on the driveshaft where it connects to the differential pinion. They are 8mm allen head bolts. Once the bolts are removed, prop the driveshaft up with a jackstand.
Jack up the differential enough to let the weight off and and remove the front diff bushing bolt. This is with the UUC bushing in, but you can see bolt I'm talking about.
Then remove the rear passenger side bolt #15 from the diff. Again you might have to move the jack up or down to let the pressure off the bolts to make them easier to remove.
Loosen but don't remove the rear driver's side bolt. #16 in pic
The diff will be suspended, but keep jack underneath it for support. The diff will drop low enough to get to the bushing and here's where it gets fun.
Here's the old bushing we're going to be removing.
PISINUOFF's extractor tool.....admire the beauty.
Attach the tool on the differential like so:
At the instructions of Brian, I jammed the two nuts together on the left, and torqued on them that way. Or, you can put a nut on either side of the spacer. You have to lock it down so when you torque on the nuts, they move the bolt with it. You are going to actually torque on the nuts themselves....the wrench on the front of the diff was just to move the bolt out a little so I could have more room on the backside.
I couldn't get the metal sleeve pressed into the diff to budge, so I took the spacer off the extractor, and just used the small washer to push the old rubber portion out of the sleeve.
Once the rubber portion was out, you can see the sleeve still in the diff.
Back view:
Front view: Notice the flange. This prevents you from extracting the sleeve from behind.
This is where I ran into trouble. I couldn't make the sleeve budge no matter what I tried. I tried heat, liquid wrench, breaker bars, all of it.
Note: it's been 20 degrees here for 2 months, so I think if it was warmer, I wouldn't have had as hard as a time
So what I did (with help from Brian's over the phone) was took a punch and tapped on the edge of the sleeve in order to make it curl in so the spacer on the extractor tool had more material to grab.
The spacer on the extractor tool is made out of aluminum, and might get a little chewed up torquing on the sleeve. Brian was thinking of making this part steel which is a great idea.
Note: earlier I had jammed the two nuts together for torquing. Brian also suggested that I try a nut on each side of the spacer as well -> as seen in the pic
Other methods to try if you are stuck (all of which were tried be me):
Try a hacksaw blade off saw to cut thru the sleeve. (wear gloves)
One person heating the case (propane/bernzomatic) other person torquing the extractor. Only works if you have a helper obviously.
A dremmel on the sleeve. So I made a couple lines in the sleeve itself so maybe the sleeve would buckle a little bit when extracted. This worked the best, but you have to be VERY careful not to go too far and get into the aluminum case.
Pray.
After all this I FINALLY got the sleeve out. You can see my two litte cuts
It took a breaker bar to get enough torque on the bolt to push it out. I didn't have a lot of room between the car and the ground, so get a inch or two cranked down, and then remove the breaker bar and start again. Tedious, but it finally came out. I was pretty scared at first, but the case held up thank God.
The hole in the diff where metal sleeve used to be....
Install the pretty red UUC bushing.
Now jack up the differential and get the holes lined up and reconnect your bolts. They are all 21mm.
When reinstalling the driveshaft bolts, make sure you use Blue Loctite on the threads so they don't work themselves loose. Also, at ewills suggestion, make sure you tighten the bolts in a star of david pattern. This will help distribute the torque evenly.
Reinstall your exhaust, and pull your V down from your ramps and go enjoy your V!
Thank you to Brian (PISINUOFF) for the great working tool, and for the help over the phone!!!!!
I did this job in february, and I think the cold weather made it harder on me trying to get the bushing out. Do yourself a favor and do it in warm weather, or if you are lucky enough to have a heated garage (or access to one) leave your V in there a few days before attempting this.
You need the following tools:
Extractor tool (contact PISINUOFF)
21mm gear wrench (diff bolts)
21mm socket (bolt head on bushing bolt)
3/4 sockets (for extractor tool)
8mm allen wrench socket (driveshaft bolts)
Blue Loctite (to use on driveshaft bolts)
Wrenches for your exhaust bolts (Mine were 11/16" and 5/8" for B&B exhaust)
The diff does NOT have to be removed in order to get old bushing out/new bushing in. I drove mine up on ramps, and it gave me enough room to work on it.
Remove the exhaust.
Then remove the 6 bolts on the driveshaft where it connects to the differential pinion. They are 8mm allen head bolts. Once the bolts are removed, prop the driveshaft up with a jackstand.
Jack up the differential enough to let the weight off and and remove the front diff bushing bolt. This is with the UUC bushing in, but you can see bolt I'm talking about.
Then remove the rear passenger side bolt #15 from the diff. Again you might have to move the jack up or down to let the pressure off the bolts to make them easier to remove.
Loosen but don't remove the rear driver's side bolt. #16 in pic
The diff will be suspended, but keep jack underneath it for support. The diff will drop low enough to get to the bushing and here's where it gets fun.
Here's the old bushing we're going to be removing.
PISINUOFF's extractor tool.....admire the beauty.
Attach the tool on the differential like so:
At the instructions of Brian, I jammed the two nuts together on the left, and torqued on them that way. Or, you can put a nut on either side of the spacer. You have to lock it down so when you torque on the nuts, they move the bolt with it. You are going to actually torque on the nuts themselves....the wrench on the front of the diff was just to move the bolt out a little so I could have more room on the backside.
I couldn't get the metal sleeve pressed into the diff to budge, so I took the spacer off the extractor, and just used the small washer to push the old rubber portion out of the sleeve.
Once the rubber portion was out, you can see the sleeve still in the diff.
Back view:
Front view: Notice the flange. This prevents you from extracting the sleeve from behind.
This is where I ran into trouble. I couldn't make the sleeve budge no matter what I tried. I tried heat, liquid wrench, breaker bars, all of it.
Note: it's been 20 degrees here for 2 months, so I think if it was warmer, I wouldn't have had as hard as a time
So what I did (with help from Brian's over the phone) was took a punch and tapped on the edge of the sleeve in order to make it curl in so the spacer on the extractor tool had more material to grab.
The spacer on the extractor tool is made out of aluminum, and might get a little chewed up torquing on the sleeve. Brian was thinking of making this part steel which is a great idea.
Note: earlier I had jammed the two nuts together for torquing. Brian also suggested that I try a nut on each side of the spacer as well -> as seen in the pic
Other methods to try if you are stuck (all of which were tried be me):
Try a hacksaw blade off saw to cut thru the sleeve. (wear gloves)
One person heating the case (propane/bernzomatic) other person torquing the extractor. Only works if you have a helper obviously.
A dremmel on the sleeve. So I made a couple lines in the sleeve itself so maybe the sleeve would buckle a little bit when extracted. This worked the best, but you have to be VERY careful not to go too far and get into the aluminum case.
Pray.
After all this I FINALLY got the sleeve out. You can see my two litte cuts
It took a breaker bar to get enough torque on the bolt to push it out. I didn't have a lot of room between the car and the ground, so get a inch or two cranked down, and then remove the breaker bar and start again. Tedious, but it finally came out. I was pretty scared at first, but the case held up thank God.
The hole in the diff where metal sleeve used to be....
Install the pretty red UUC bushing.
Now jack up the differential and get the holes lined up and reconnect your bolts. They are all 21mm.
When reinstalling the driveshaft bolts, make sure you use Blue Loctite on the threads so they don't work themselves loose. Also, at ewills suggestion, make sure you tighten the bolts in a star of david pattern. This will help distribute the torque evenly.
Reinstall your exhaust, and pull your V down from your ramps and go enjoy your V!
Thank you to Brian (PISINUOFF) for the great working tool, and for the help over the phone!!!!!
I did this job in february, and I think the cold weather made it harder on me trying to get the bushing out. Do yourself a favor and do it in warm weather, or if you are lucky enough to have a heated garage (or access to one) leave your V in there a few days before attempting this.