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Getting parts together for clutch and headers

2K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  MAPerformance 
#1 ·
At least a few days have elapsed since the cam so time to plan the next major purchases.

This is for the LS2 V.

Planning on kooks (or b&b if I can find them for a good price) 1 7/8 headers and the monster stage 3 clutch kit.

Any good places selling b&b online?

So far on my list of accessories I have:
GM Gaskets or Copper (anyone know the part numbers)
ARP header bolts/studs (do they make stage 8 locking ones for the LS2?)
Remote bleeder for clutch (anyone have the linkage to the specific model)
High temp plug wires (not sure which ones)


Really appreciate if anyone could post the models/links. I've done some digging just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

Help always appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
Actually looking at regular prices the difference between kooks and b&b is minimal (on some websites). So which one would you recommend to mate with the magnaflowÉ
 
#4 ·
Dont forget new ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts!
 
#5 ·
The gasket you're looking for is the percys seal4good. I'd give you the link but I'm on my phone.
 
#6 ·
I bought new gm gaskets from Luke and have never had a single problem with them. They dont shrink or swell and I never have a problem with my header stud nuts coming loose.
 
#7 ·
My headers are at jethot getting coated right now, and I'm debating on getting the ARP header studs. 100 bucks for header bolts seems like a lot of coin for bolts. Any feedback on them? Are they worth it?
 
#8 ·
I love mine! I had stage 8 locking header bolts and they sucked. Just a major pain. Now these dont lock but I have never had a problem with them backing off. Also, if you are doing this by yourself, it makes it much easier because you can hang the gaskets on the studs, then slip the header up there and hang it on the studs as well. Then crawl out from under the car and start a few nuts. Its that easy.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I'm in the same boat. I'm about to pull the trigger on B&B headers and catback. Also about to go stage 3 monster clutch too, still debating on 18lb or 28 lb flywheel. I thought monsters came with everything needed as far as bolts? or atleast offer them for sale on their site.
Not sure if B&B comes with gaskets for the headers or O2 wire extensions.
As of now I have added ARp bolts to my header list, O2 wire extensions, header wrap(i'm going that way as oppossed to coating), and gaskets. I guess I might as well change out spark plugs and wires while I'm there.
I'm also going to be ordering some fake cats.
When it comes clutch time, definitely going to get a remote bleeder. Monster comes with a slave , so that's covered.
Ecm will go in for a retune.
Am I missing anything on my list?


I'm thinking of calling B&B directly, their site has a higher price than another selling their headers and exhaust I found, I don't know what's up with that.
http://www.nyxracing.com/exhaust-parts-c-4246.html

here's the fake cats.

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=210&products_id=320&osCsid=cc85ab66c06aa91a1bcc6987e05d5b3e
 
#10 ·
The monster will most likely come with pressure plate bolts but most likely not flywheel bolts. I dont know though. A few on here have the monster and should be able to tell you.
 
#11 ·
Here's a link for the Stage 8

http://marylandspeed.com/stage-8-locking-header-bolts-gm-lsx-engines-stg8900-p-1006.html

I am not sure if these are better than ARP or not. I still haven't decided if I am going to put them on the V. I had ARP head studs on my Supra back in the day and had no problems other than I had to cherry pick the entire motor if I needed to work on the head because the head wouldn't clear the studs before hitting the fire wall. That was sort of a pain. It sounds like some of the guys here using the studs are not having fitment issues, though with the V and the headers.
 
#13 ·
Stage 8 suck. You will never get all this locks on there. People complain about changing plugs, good luck with those little clips lol I had them, hated them on the caddy.
 
#14 ·
Oh! You have used them before? Why couldn't you get all the locks on? What do you mean that people had to change plugs, were they coming loose and exhaust gases were frying the spark plug wires? Did you find that the locks didn't work? I just don't see how the bolt can back out when there is a lock on it.
 
#15 ·
I didn't have any problems backing out or causing any problems. There just isn't much room to work in the engine bay. People here complain that plugs are really hard to change on the V so getting those little bitty locks and clips on wihout dropping them is a real pain in the ass. I would not recomend installing them on any vehical with limited access to the header bolts like the V.
 
#16 ·
Gotcha... good looking out. I bought them, but couldn't find anyone that used them in this application. I'll look into some ARPs... the Stage 8s were only $40 so there isn't much lost there.

Thanks
 
#17 ·
Didn't have time to read the previous posts so if I'm repeating....my bad.

I don't think the B&B mates up the magnaflow very well for some reason. You may want to look into that more but I'm sure it's doable. Call B&B, they have EXCELLENT customer service!

I have the ARP bolt numbers in my clutch writeup if you need em, wherever that is now. It should still have the pics too.

Use GM gaskets for your headers. They will not leak, and they are cheaper than the aftermarket kind. I used my stock bolts on my headers, with a tiny bit of loctite. Havent leaked, and the bolts are still tight.

As far as aftermarket wires, I think that's a waste. Just get cool sox for the factory wires, or wrap your headers (like I did) the back wire is laying on the header and hasn't gotten burnt or shows any sign of damage.
 
#18 ·
Lolly, how do you feel about the percys seal4good gasket as compared to the GM one? I have the GM ones, but a lot of guys recommend the percys metal gasket + a few heat cycles, and I'm debating on getting them as well.
 
#19 ·
The GM ones are metal too Boss.

I'll put it this way.....
When I 1st put my B&B's on I used GM gaskets. After I took em off to redo my motor mounts the 2nd time around, I bought (from Luke) a 2nd pair of GM gaskets cuz they never leaked, and they are quality. I wouldn't waste your time or money changing em...especially if they aren't leaking. (which, they shouldn't be)
 
#21 ·
For the remote bleeder, is it the LAPD C5/Z06 or the LAPD C6 bleeder kit that has all the pieces (this is for the monster stage 3 clutch/slave).
 
#24 ·
If you order the kit for the C6, it comes with everything you need.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Sent you an email.. Now have urgent need for headers (car's apart :stirpot:) and maryland speed where I put an order seem to be dragging their feet on the Kooks. Good time to do clutch, headers, probably will end up making it into a 402 forged motor also. Crazy month but may as well bite the bullet.

Need headers asap :)

On a side note, any preference between the LAPD bleeder or the Tick bleeder that Chris (GEFORCE) sells?
 
#29 ·
The link I posted has the cheapest I have found, I just bought from B&B and they closely matched that price. I ordered from B&B directly because I wanted the X-pipe without resonators, they now sell the x-pipe with them unless you specify otherwise. I think headers and cat back cost me 2300 and change, without cats.
 
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