: Is there a charge light on 1990 Bro-fleetwood

01-12-10, 07:38 PM
New alternator won't charge the battery. but the check engine light turns off after the car is started and there is no charge light on even. Odo, says "error"

Any one have pics?

01-12-10, 08:37 PM
There is a charge light, it should come on when the ignition is turned on with the engine off as a bulb test. If not the bulb may be burnt out. Replace it because sometimes that bulb is part of the voltage regulation circuit and the alternator will not charge without it. It sounds stupid but I have had this happen. The alternator in my Lincoln won't put out any current unless I have the charge light hooked up.

01-12-10, 08:39 PM
Yes, the charge light is red with a pic of a battery. Should light on start, then go off.

01-12-10, 09:23 PM
how much of the dash has to come out to pull the cluster?

01-13-10, 12:18 AM
Its not in the cluster, its in the woodgrain trim strip on top of the dash. Honestly I have never had to replace a dash light so I am not sure how you remove that strip. Maybe someone else on here knows.

01-13-10, 12:31 AM
If it's the same as the 80's dash, its just a couple screws in the defroster and a/c vents and in the glovebox. Fairly simple.

01-13-10, 01:11 AM
You have to take the top dash pad off to get to the light bulbs, thats it. Two screws on the ends, four on the defrost vents, one from the inside of the glove box and one from the digital gauge cluster. Pull towards you to unclip then out.

01-13-10, 04:56 PM
Well the dash pad was already pulled apparently. It lifted right off, and I changed all the lights, but no still no charge light. What order do the lights go in? how far is the charge light from the oil, brake, or check engine light?

01-13-10, 05:00 PM
Oh and the brand new battery I put in yesterday was dead this morning. this car is starting to not be worth the free i spent on it.

01-13-10, 05:28 PM
I'll give you twice what you paid for it.

01-13-10, 06:30 PM
If the charging system electrical circuit is the same as the '89, then you might have something wrong with your air conditioner or Electronic Climate Control (ECC). The bulb not functioning is more than likely what is preventing your alternator from charging.

The No Charge lamp is spliced into the ECC circuit and gets it's power from the 20 amp A/C fuse. If you are having a problem with the ECC not displaying, working, or otherwise being there, then you could try replacing the A/C fuse which is located in the fuse block, above a row of three 20 amp fuses and sitting between two 10 amp fuses.

If the ECC is functional, then you need to replace the brown power wire to the charge bulb. To find the No Charge indicator (find the brown wire) take out all of the bulbs and shine a flashlight into each hole.

01-13-10, 07:40 PM
yep the ecc IS out. I guess I'll have to make a trip to the picknpull over here. The wallet isn't going to like this.

01-13-10, 08:09 PM
Did you check the fuse first?

If the battery is dead already you have a parasitic drain somewhere. Those are a real PITA to track down sometimes.

01-14-10, 02:24 PM
Change the A/C fuse first, then worry about parasitic drain and not having an ECC.

01-14-10, 02:47 PM
well thats the plan but I have to find the fuse box first. Here are some pics to show you what I'm working with here. the first is a plug that has nothing plugged into it. Could it be the ECC plug? The second is the butchered stereo wiring.

I contacted the PO and the car has a "system" that they pulled, and it should have remote start now.

Maybe I can run a wire to activate the alternator. Which of the wires on the alternator plug is the activator wire? I'm guessing the bigger one.


01-14-10, 03:22 PM
Oh wow, what a mess. The larger wire is the charge wire that goes to the battery. The smaller one should be the voltage sense wire. Let me double check for you though cause sometimes there is a ground on there as well.

01-14-10, 04:02 PM
If you look on the under side of the driver's side dash, there should be a panel that says fuse box or something like that. You unbolt the panel and move the wires out of the way and you should see the fuse block up at the top. The different fuses should be labeled what they control, and the A/C fuse is towards the top of the block in a hard to reach place.

01-14-10, 05:31 PM
I bought myself a charger/starter and I'm gonna put it on the car so I can hook the battery back up.

I found the fuse box, its not the most convenient place for it. I didn't see the A/C fuse cause my flashlight is dead but did see that nothing is plugged into the ignition spot. However the car still starts with the key. I'll take a pic of the fuse panel.

Is there a diagram of it someplace?

The alternator on it has a separate thick wire that goes to the battery, I am talking about jumpering to the thick wire in the alternator plug. I think there was 3-4 small wires and 1 thicker one, and 1 very thick one all by itself. I hate to hack things up worse though.

01-14-10, 06:07 PM
There isn't an Ignition fuse. You probably saw one of the connectors for an Ignition/Accessory operated component, which are labeled ING #.

01-14-10, 07:07 PM
OK Thanks everyone a/c fuse was missing, and the car now pulls 14V, and the ECC is on.

There is 12V battery draw while the car is off though, should I make a new thread to chart my progress on that, or just add it here.

01-14-10, 07:37 PM
Well if it has some sort of drain it's not supposed to it probably has something to do with that clump of wires in the picture. Figure out what's wrong with all that and you'll probably fix your problem.

01-14-10, 07:49 PM
There is 12V battery draw while the car is off though, should I make a new thread to chart my progress on that, or just add it here.

How did you test for parasitic draw?

01-14-10, 08:16 PM
I hooked a volt meter between the battery and the positive cable

01-14-10, 09:06 PM
I hooked a volt meter between the battery and the positive cable

Do you mean you took the Multimeter from the negative terminal to battery positive? Because that would tell you how much juice is still in the battery, but not the drain on it.

The reason I ask is because parasitic draw is measured in Amps, not volts and a 12 volt draw would be like continual cranking; battery would ever show a charge.

To do parasitic drain test you have to set you multimeter to read Amps (if your's doesn't read Amps, you need to find on that does). You need to disconnect the negative battery wire and attach the ammeter between the cable and the negative terminal. If the meter is reading over 25 amps, then you have a parasitic draw. The best way to find the parasitic drain is by having someone watch the ammeter while you pull each of the fuses; the circuit that causes a drop in Amps is drawing current.

01-14-10, 11:00 PM
The first pic is of your ODB1 connector, its not supposed to have anything connected but does screw to the bottom of the dash. The wires in the second picture needs to be cleaned up, I bet your draw is from there. I would make clean cuts of all the wires that are not connected to anything and tape them off including the antenna. Looks like someone tried hooking up a head unit not knowing there is an external amp. I bet they got power from the stock head unit harness and ran wire to the speakers when they couldnt get them to turn on. There is a metal amp under the dash thats a pain to get to but I bet its still connected and untouched. I have pics from the 90 service manual if you need some. I bet if you pull you radio and/or liter fuse, the draw goes away.

01-15-10, 12:25 AM
OK I did the draw test half wrong, I did it on the positive side instead of negative, and I did volts not amps. There is a connector in the mess of wires that goes to a headunit I have but never tried. it looks like any amps were bypassed and the speakers rewired.