: WARNING: Do not use Premium Guard Oil Filters:



CateraMV6
01-05-10, 10:34 AM
I am a proud owner of a 2001 Catera Sport.

Had the car since 59,000mi with regular 5k oil changes and I used WIX filters for the longes time.

Then they got more expensive and I took a look around, finding a Premium Guard filters on ebay selling for 50$/case (12pc) so for 58$ total I had enough filters to last me 60K miles...

One thing that was disturbing to me was the fact that every time I removed my oil filter I found it kind of smashed... twisted, which made me worried that the thing wasn't doing its job.

I just removed the very last filter that I had, and same old deal, nicely smashed.
I did verify that the filter fits in the housing correctly, and I did torque it to specs, after that removed and inspected it, with no negative results.

It appears that after you install the filter and it gets soaked with oil, it then softens and the oil pressure deforms it, pushing it out of the way and sptiting oil past the side of it, thus not filtering it.

So as a word of warning stay away form these pieces of garbage...
Premium Guard:
M2224
PG5309

Not sure about the FRAM CH8806 < but at 9$ I wont be giving it a shot any time soon.

Instead buy WIX 57033 filters, those run without problems in my car, they also cost around $4.30 at rockauto or NAPA.

Here are the pictures of the filters side by side, I also noticed that the wix has more media fins and its more sturdy when you attempt to twist it, or push against it.

http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab263/MV6Catera/OIL%20Changes/DSC04751.jpg

Wix (L), PG (R)
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab263/MV6Catera/OIL%20Changes/DSC04752.jpg

Wix (L), PG (R) < Last two oil changes...
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab263/MV6Catera/OIL%20Changes/DSC04753.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab263/MV6Catera/OIL%20Changes/DSC04754.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab263/MV6Catera/OIL%20Changes/DSC04755.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab263/MV6Catera/OIL%20Changes/DSC04757.jpg


Those two filters were replaced as follows, the on the very right was replaced at 3000k, and the one next to the new WIX was replaced at 2500k...

Latest oil change.
5qt Mobil 1 HM Non-Energy Conserving(10W-30)
1qt HDMO Rotella T (15W-40)
6oz. MMO
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab263/MV6Catera/OIL%20Changes/DSC04758.jpg

I refuse to put anything that says Energy Conserving in my Oil.

Matera97
01-05-10, 02:45 PM
Is it okay to combine motor oils like that? I understand the MMO is an additive, but I'm not getting the addition of the 15W-40. Well I'm glad you got that mystery solved though, like I said I've never seen a filter do that, but I use the Fram super toughs...I guess I'm a sucker for $10 filters...lol

Jea3cd
01-05-10, 03:20 PM
Back in our NHRA days, we build high end engines all the time. That's how we supported our racing habit. We took 22 oil filter brands, and cut them in halve, and mounted them on plexi glass, so you could see inside them.

Our engines only went out with NAPA / WIX filters. If you used anything other than that, you voided your warrenty. The second best filters, were AC Delco filters. Sorry to say, one of the worst filters, FRAM.

The only oil that we approved, was Valvoline, or Mobil1.

To this day, that is all I use, and I'm proud to say my wifes Pontiac Montana has 165K on it, and my GMC Jimmy has 192K on it now. Neither have had engine work done, other than gaskets, and both run very strong.

CateraMV6
01-05-10, 03:52 PM
Yeah, this was a costly mistake I think but its too late to correct it.


Back a few years ago, maybe 2006-2007 I switched to Synthetic oils, MOBIL 1 and shortly after I noticed that anoying puff of blue smoke on cold morning start ups... my buddy who works at Federal Mogul, says the valve guides got cleaned up and now its leaking through there... only fix is to run thicker oil or a high millage oil like the M1 HM to see if it helps.

To this day it still smokes and i have tried numerous things, from Bardhal to the Lucas and nothing helped.
Recently I discovered the BobIsTheOilGuy forum, and there people showed me that Lucas is garbage, also M1 is one of the best oils to use.

So I was thinking of a mix of good oils to use that have high levels of wear additives, and cleaning agents... and M1 HM 10W-30 the Non EC is the best oil to buy, based on the VOA-Virgin Oil Analisys.

Then I looked at the Diesel oils that are also certified to use in gas engine thus the CF-4/SL or SM cerficications, so its safe to use on a car... but most recommendations were to get a bottle for top off... and so I did.

Also I think I am going through about 2-3qts of oil between changes 5K intervals, so I picked the ticker oil to see if it will help.
The MMO, I started using that since the last 2 tanks of gas, and noticed the injector tick quiet down a bit, and we will see if it will clear up the stuck oil rings, I think thats where the problem is... Lucas must have made a mess in my engine.


The 15W-40 was picked for higher quantities of ZDDP and cleaning agents... and since its a top off oil, its not going to affect the overall thickness of the oil.
THe MMO is quite thin so it will be roughly the same as the M1 in the end.

Drove the car today, and I don't know if its in my head but the engine sounds muffled, without that annoying clatter that I used to hear before on idle... Powerwise it seems great too, took it on the highway, and it pulled like crazy on the on-ramp, so I think the oil thickness is just right for now. My battery has 700CCA so it will be fine for those cold days.

From now on its WIX or nothing else.
Also M1 HM for oil changes and probably 10W-30 all around.

The M1 has also higher then normal levels of antiwear and cleaning agents and thus its non Energy Conserving, but its better for the worn out motor.
Debating if I should drop 1K on a new 3.2L this coming summer, we will see how my job goes...

Black02SLPSS
01-06-10, 04:09 PM
Debating if I should drop 1K on a new 3.2L this coming summer, we will see how my job goes...

If you decide to pull the trigger on a 3.2L engine this is where i got mine from. They are pretty good guys too..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CADILLAC-CATERA-NEW-ENGINE-3-0-97-98-99-00-01-02-V6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem58854d3c58QQitemZ380 193553496QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories

CateraMV6
01-07-10, 09:45 AM
....well as far as a 3.2L goes I was looking at taking one of the engines in the link, since they are new, and almost complete.

Also if I go the 3.2L route, i will be upgradin the trans as well... with a clutch pedal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Caddilac-CTS-3-2L-Engine-Long-Block-OEM-6-Cylinder-LA3_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cecbfc6ebQQitemZ33 0389505771QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories#ht_4486wt_958

Black02SLPSS
01-07-10, 11:35 AM
Damnit! Wish i would have seen that when i bought my motor. lol would have saved a grand. Oh well.