There are a few problems that I have noticed now that I didn't notice when I first got the car. Myabe they have come to be a problem now but I want to know what is causing this and how do I fix it. 97 Deville with 90.5k miles on the odometer
1. Brake pedal clicks when I press it to change gears.
2. Motor oil seems to be leaking, I can smell it when I turn on the car.
3. Somewhere around the steering column, I hear a click when I turn the steering wheel.
4. The "service engine soon" light turns on and off. Last week it was on, then turned off for a few days, now I just came back from the road and it turned on on the way back.
5. Im getting about 13.4 mpg, it's really digging in my pocket.
That about it. Im using Mobil 1 syntech oil. I would also like to know what type of engine maintance I have to do once it hits 100k miles. I have already changed the plugs, and the FPR and did a slight flush on the radiator. I wanted to change brake fluid and trans fluid in a month. Any help will GREATLY be appriciated.
I was getting that clicking sound in my steering too. It turned out to be my floor mat was too far forward and hitting something.
08-10-04, 12:59 AM
Ok Wicho- first of all, don't kick your car. Save that frustration for when you own something weird, like a Panhard Dyna. Ask me how I know. :helpless:
We need to find out what the SES light is telling you, since I'm sure it's related to your poor fuel economy. You can do either a diagnostic check through the DIC, or you can attach a scanner at the ALDL/whatever GM calls it now. To do a diagnostic at the DIC, turn on the ignition, and at the A/C controls depress the off and warmer buttons at the same time. yes/continue is up on the fan, no/stop is down on the fan (I think I have that right :hmm: ). Once you get the codes (write them down in order- the whole thing being you fix the lowest numbered one first ) you can check against a list of the codes your car should output, and get a general idea of what's wrong.
Your clicking brake pedal is normal. That is the solenoid releasing the shift lockout. It is a safety item designed to prevent you from shifting into gear without having your foot on the brake.
Try going to a conventional oil. I have heard that synthetics tend to leak where others don't. The engine was validated with conventional oil. The leak could be the infamous half case leak. That is usually just seepage and rarely drips. Very expensive to fix as the motor has to be removed. Best just to live with it. It may also be an oil filter adapter, oil cooling line or trans cooling line. All much easier and cheaper to fix.
If you do the trans fluid change be aware that there is a hidden drain up in the trans that is accessable when you get the pan off. Most of the fluid is up in the side cover and will be drained by that plug. If you have it done do not allow them to flush the trans. There has been much discussion on this and many reports of trans failures soon after.
Follow hotrodelectric's advise and get the codes. 13.4 MPG is extremely low. I am getting 24.5. I am sure it is related to the SES light being on.
These are the codes I pulled
IPC U1255 HISTORY
ACM B1312 CURRENT
TCS C1233 HISTORY
PCM P0139 CURRENT
PCM P1599 HISTORY
I cleared the PCM codes by mistake after I wrote them down, does doesn't matter at all does it ? Thanks for the help
08-11-04, 01:37 AM
You should be OK- you now have information you can work from. Look at the top of the thread, there is a post "Sticky: OBD2 codes". Most of what you're looking for should be there. For reference- next time you pull codes, leave them until repairs are done. The way I've heard, it helps prevent false or 'soft' codes.
Slick Black Cadillac
08-11-04, 02:52 AM
The oil you smell could be due to your use of Mobil 1. As engines wear the rings become looser in the piston bores, Mobil 1 is the thinnest oil available and it can slip through the wear gap into the piston chamber and get burnned. Its happened to a few of our lot cars. Your motor has 100,000 miles on it, you should switch to a thicker oil that helps to repair the wear in your engine (perhaps Valvoline Max Life or similar). The benifits of Synthetics generally don't apply in high mileage engines.
B1312 - High Side Temp Sensor Open Circuit
P0139 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 2
Anyone care to tell me what this means ? Im guessing the second code means somethings wrong with an o2 sensor, but what about the first code. Can I replace an o2 sensor on my own ? thanks
Not sure about the first one, maybe a bad coolant temp sensor.
O2 sensor is just about like changing a spark plug.
08-12-04, 06:31 AM
If that is the one Ranger is talking about (I think it is too) it will be on the driver side of the rear head. Be prepared to do a bit of groping- it's down low and under other stuff. The wire leads should be yellow and black. Those two parts (the temp sender and the O2 sensor) will definitely have a negative impact on fuel economy. I can check my SI2000 tomorrow and see for sure about the temp sender.