how well can an LT1 fit into a 93 fwb? would it mount up and bolt to the transmission or would i have to fabricate some things?

I don't see why not. Its the same motor...sort of.

If I were you, I'd find a wrecked Bubble or FW witht he LT1, strip as much as you can, including engine mounts. Will give you some spare parts for just in case. You might also check for engine mount kits too.

Bubble?

Sorry, Caprice, or Impala. The 92? to 96.

ive been trying to find one around here. there arent any in the junk yards. every two years the sheriffs office has a big impound sale and they sell their old caprices, so ill try and get one there. i would have to fix them because cop cars have a lot of chips and performance parts in them and special transmissions that make them go faster longer, all that stuff is taken out and the engines are disabled.

They disable the vehicles? I don't think so... Add to that, there's not a lot of performance parts put into the cars... It's just tougher suspension and frame peices, gutted sound system, and some intake and chip work on the motors. My buddy picked up a FHP Caprice, and it wasnt disabled or anything.

they do down here. i was going to buy one a year ago, it was a 96 Caprice, it was at the SCSO auction. before the auction started they guy who ran it told us that the cop cars dont run and are disabled because all of the chips are taken out and they disable the engines (not while doing it though). he gave us the keys because my dad didnt believe him (cause dad works with the sheriffs office) and they didnt start and not because of the battery. lost the auction on it :dammit: . when it was over the cars bought were towed out and taken to get fixed.

update. ive found an LT1. its in a junk yard. the car it came out of was totaled so they popped out the motor. thats the only thing left. the owner says he doesnt know how well it runs but it should do fine once he changes the oil and seals and all. its out of a 96 Caprice. he told me i might have to get a new driveline & transmission because it has more horsepower and motor mounts (cause he isnt too sure how it will fit). is this true or is he just trying to get some money. has anyone done this before?

The LT1 will carry more horsepower than your original 307. But the torque will likely be similar. The LT1 is rated 260 horse, 330 torque. The 307, if I recall right, was like 140 horse, but torqued out to 346 or so. The guy is trying to sell you more stuff of course, but... It's stuff that will likely come in handy later on. I'd recommend picking up the entire driveline if you happen to have the chance. If not, your original tranny could probably be built to take the added power, but I'm not sure what you have stock. Know your tranny code?

no no no its got a 350 its just not the LT1. it is still a 5.7 liter, i believe its got 180 hp and 300 ft lbs torque. everything is stock. i dont know the tranny code, how do you get it? is it in the manual? also, a friend of mine told me that it would be cheaper to get it rebuilt and get it bored out to whatever than to switch motors out. do you think i should do that instead? i actually want about 350 to 400 hp. i dont race my car i just wanna smoke honda boys when they come up and rev me off. i can already beat most of em but i want be leaving them in the dust and i wanna have bragging rights. it lugs a little on the take off and i dont wanna give em the edge cause there are a few ricer cars down here that can smoke muscle cars.

To take your original 350 and get it to push 400 horses, not impossible. Bore it out to 383, or more if you want. A high flow carb (if your stock 350 is carb'd) maybe a bit of head work. The most important thing you'll likely be able to do is gearing. The 93 FWB I THINK is a 2.92 gear ratio. Stepping up to a 3.23 or 3.73 would get a better movement off the line.

Now, working the LT1. It has 1 difficulty in the way, but overall, the same things that can be done to your original 350 can be done to an LT1. The annoyance is the Optispark. That ignition system has some unpleasant rumors about it. The advantage to the LT1 though, is that it's Fuel Injected, which makes it a happy cantidate for a supercharger. For about 3-5k, you can easily take 400-500 horses from either motor, and have it streetable, and reliable. For $750 you can get that for about 30 seconds, but that much nitrous would almost certainly do damage.

now, if you have a 350 in there stock, and you want to put an LT1, I have good news. It will be so easy to bolt the LT1 in, that you'll probably stand back afterwards and say, "Ok, somethings wrong, that went TOO well." The wiring and such will be a bit harder, but then wiring always is.

the 350 thats in it is fuel injected single port the LT1 is duel port. so would it be simpler to bore this thing out or drop the LT1 in it? thats my question. i got the money either way. redoing the wiring sounds like it is gonna be a bitch if i put this new motor in. thanks for the help. sounds like you know your stuff.

My question is why the hell a 93 caddy is still carborated. Oh and you may need to replace fuel pump and some other fun stuff if it is carborated.

The 93 wasn't Carb'd, somehow I got off focus, and was thinking we were working a 87 FWB or something... The wiring won't be too bad on the 96 LT1, but I will admit, it is beyond my personal skills. I'm of the standpoint, the more computer stuff you have to deal with, the harder it gets. Despite being a decent hacker, and computer junkie for years. Don't like playing with too much engine management programs myself. If you can find someone who knows how to get the computers to play, you're in great shape. If you're working on your own, I'll offer the advice I can, but getting into engine comp programming is a bit beyond my skills. I'm more of a general wrench.

The 5L has 255 for torque. The transmissions are probably the same but I think the newer ones are electronic.

Though, I had a thought... If you have the $$, and the time, interest, and inclination... Why not just crate motor it? GM sells the Fastburn 385, there's a ton of companies the offer various crate smallblocks, it'd almost seem easier to get a fresh motor. Unless you have a killer deal on an LT1 nearby, and plan on the rest of the power mods at a later date... It's just one of those things... There's Smallblocks getting worked pretty far into the 400's as I recall. Would give a lot of torque, which is what you'll need on the FWB. Random thoughts.

well im gettin this LT1 for 1500. that was the price i was given to get the original engine rebuilt so i figured i would get an LT1 cause i like these engines. how much are those crate motors? that sounds like a better idea.

I think you have to see about a local dealer... but here you go. There's some stats on the crate motors. Pricing is not there though. Sorry. http://www.gmgoodwrench.com//perfpartsjsp/featured.jsp#12498772

Additional link on all the motors they offer.
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com//perfpartsjsp/partlist.jsp?section=ce&cat=9274



12498772 ZZ383/425 Crate Engine

With GM's legendary Fast Burn cylinder heads and 383 cubic inches, the ZZ383/425 delivers incredible torque with smooth, linear delivery. If you're looking for a small-block package that delivers big-block power, then you've found it. 425 horsepower at an incredibly low 5400 RPM, and 460 ft-lbs. of torque at 4500 RPM make this the ideal hot street engine or off road powerhouse.

The excellent air handling and combustion characteristics of the Fast Burn cylinder heads combined with the ZZ383/425's 3.800" stroke, make this engine the benchmark against which all other 383 inch small-blocks should be measured. And it's tough, too. The 4340 nitrided and induction hardened crank and unique forged PM rods see to that. The 9.1 to 1 compression ratio ensures that the ZZ383/425 is 92 octane pump gas friendly.

The ZZ383/425 gets a stout .509/.528 lift steel camshaft, with 222/230 duration at .050 lift. Hydraulic roller lifters and GM's time tested 1.5 to 1 roller rocker arms round out the valve train. And, of course, it has the Fast Burn head's lightweight stainless steel valves and retainers for reliable performance at extended RPM.

GM's testing was completed using a GM single plane intake, P/N 12496822 and a 750 CFM Demon carburetor with mechanical secondaries. Test header specs are: 1 3/4" primaries, 33 inches long with 4-inch collectors.

GM dual plane intake P/N 12366573 may be used for hood clearance on the ZZ383/425, but results in a decrease in peak horsepower of approximately 15-20 horsepower.
GM Crate Engines are horsepower rated to SAE Standards.

Technical Notes: ZZ 383/425 Technical Information
Horsepower 425 @ 5400 RPM
Torque 449 @ 4500 RPM
Max. Recommended RPM 6000
Compression Ratio 9.1:1
Partial Engine 12499106
Block 88962516 Four bolt main, cast iron
Crankshaft 12489436 Steel "4340"
Connecting Rods 12497624 PM rods
Pistons.005 O/S 12499103 High silicon aluminum
Piston Rings .005 O/S 12499107
Camshaft 12370846
Cylinder Heads 12464298
Head Gasket 10105117 (.28 thick)
Intake Valves 12555331 2.00"
Exhaust Valves 12551313 1.55"
Valve Springs 12551483
Rocker Arms 12370838 1.5:1 roller rockers kit
Tortional Damper 12498008
Flex Plate 14088765
Lifters 5232720 Flat Tappet
Spark Plugs R 44LTS or R42LTS for racing
Fuel Premium 92 octane or greater
Ignition Timing 32º total @ 3000 RPM with vacuum advance disconnected

Figure you might pay between 1500-3500 though for a full crate motor. Be prepared to hear prices as high as 5k though. The advantages to going crate though, is you will possibly see a warranty, you'll have a new motor, and some of these come with the power you want. So, you wont have to hunt down performance parts or anything.


As a note, I put the stats on the 383 mostly for the nice torque numbers. 449 @ 4500 rpms is going to be a useful stat. If you mate that with probably about a 3.23 or 3.73 rear end, and a strong enough tranny, it will get even the big FWB moving off the line. But, that's just me, I'm a fan of torque too.

some of those look pretty mean. im gonna go to the dealership this weekend and get a price on one. if they can. thanks for the help.

the 383 is 2500. not to bad but to get it put in and all it would be looking at a nice chunk of change. i got the money but im not sure i wanna do it. i might get that LT1. the guy said that the engine looks damn good to be a 8 year old engine. he is gonna see how many miles it has. it was recorded when it was brought to the junk yard but he dont remember. my dad is gonna call around to see who can put it in and how much.

To put the LT1 in, you will need the wiring harness for the engine and transmission. Your 93 is TBI with a the 4RL60 trans. the 96 has the 4RL60E (electronic). The 96 is also OBD II emissions, although www.pcmforless.com can program a computer to change it to OBD II. I think that Painless wiring may be able to supply a harnes for the switch. Motor mounts will be the same. For more info about the different mechanicals on the engines, check out the NAISSO forum www.naisso.net and www.impalassforum.com
I get a lot of good info from them for my Olds.

I like the idea of the LT1, but I am leaning towards rebuilding mine and stroking it to the 383. That GM 383 is also a nice set up. I am pretty sure that pcmforless can hook you up with the chip.

hey thanks man. im not sure what im gonna do yet. so many good ideas i just havent figured out. a guy i know said hed do all the rebuilding and everything for 1500 final price. the 383 will be 2500 plus all the other stuff i have to get im probably looking at between 3500 and 4500 final price. and the LT1 1500 plus everything ill need for it so itll be between 3000 and 4000 final price. kind of a hard decision. i love the LT1 engines and i wouldnt mind having a brand new engine either. but the stock engine they wouldnt have to do much. so :hmm: what to pick? i also cant have this car away too long cause for right now its the only car i got. my Lincoln is broke down (air ride went out.)

93fleetwoodlowlow, please let me know what you end up doing. I also have a 1993 fleetwood and have been toying around with engine options. Hey did you ever fix that steering twitch that you had?? My fleet also has developed the same problem. What did you end up doing?

no, i got it aligned hoping that would help but it didnt. i dont know how to fix it. i think it has something to do with my power steering.