: pull tranny, fix half case leak



cl1986
12-11-09, 03:37 PM
guess ill try this section, hope to get some response...

Heres the tranny part of it.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/186882-transmission-leaking.html







Ok, im ok with having to pay $600 to R & R the tranny......

but my half case leaks like a sieve, add 3 quarts between oil changes, and i dont think its burnin any of it....

Now i just put together a stroker motor for my jeep (made my 4.0 a 4.6L)

Im wondering if i pull both trans and engine if its possible that i could do the half case??

Or is there so many special tools and knowledge it will make it impossible for me?

I figure if im fixiing the tranny, i might as well save the tranny labor and do both myself.....

Or pull both and have someone fix the half case

Thought please, i need to get a car back



Read the half case thread in the tech tips section now.....

that really doesnt look that bad??

So i wouldnt be messign with the crank or anything.....or are the bearing in that half case?

What do you all need to buy (looks like alignment tool for sure) and cost to due this?

That might be an easy thing to do if the engine is already out.......


ah....so it looks like the half case is one complete main bearing cap so to speak....im still ok with that...

Where can i buy these alignment pins and the oil plate you have to get??



What else do i need to do this, i thought i saw somewhere about a puller for the crank pully? Someone said to not use a 3 jaw, one other said the manual says to use 3 jaw, yet another stil couldnt get it off anyway??

I have the service manual, and plan on using the half case thread in the tech tips.

Just need to know the cost of parts and tools and anything else i need like the oil passage plate?

ejguillot
12-11-09, 05:33 PM
cl1986,

read my thread (I'm doing everything you're doing):

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/184417-my-turn-do-home-northstar-headgasket.html

If you can pull the tranny, you can pull the engine. Your half case reseal procedure will be different than mine.

cl1986
12-11-09, 09:28 PM
ok, ya i already read your thread, but you didnt mention anything yet on the half case....

did you buy the stuff yet for it?? The gm silicon, the oil dist plate, and i assume new oil pan gasket.....then the EN tools? anything else?

why would my half case be different than yours?? the tech guide shows both our years on it??

tateos
12-11-09, 10:24 PM
That leaking trans is unusual - better investigate further before you pull it, maybe unnecessarily...unless maybe you are looking for a project? If so, in your situation, I would drop the cradle, get the trans rebuilt, get a new torque converter, do the half case and oil pan reseal, and do the HG repair while you're at it.

cl1986
12-11-09, 10:53 PM
im trying to investigate.......no one has any answers...

and why would i do a headgasket repair when they are fine??

tateos
12-12-09, 12:31 PM
Get a second or third opinion regarding the trans leak - if they suspect a crack in the bellhousing area, they should be able to see it with the trans still in the car, even if they have to use a scope to see it.

Head gasket failure is a common problem that requires removal of the engine - usually by dropping the cradle. Once you have removed the cradle from the car. and the engine and trans from the cradle, the hard part is done. Why not do the HG thread repair and coolant crossover repair (replace the gaskets/seals) at that point, and be assured of many miles of worry free ownership? That's what I would do; otherwise, just R and R the trans, and leave the rest in the car. Adding 3 quarts between changes is pretty normal for a Northstar, and it's a lot easier and cheaper than replacing the half case, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal, which BTW could all be the source of your leak. You could do just the rear seal and leave the engine in the car, if you just do the trans.

cl1986
12-12-09, 07:11 PM
well im not doing headgaskets when i dont need to....probrably never will have to with this motor.....only a very small percentage of N* have headgasket problems....

try this one....coat your garage floor with epoxy, then pour out 3 quarts of oil on it and see what kind of mess it is......should cover at least one whole stall

if you know its a lot cheaper than replacin the half case......thats my frickin question!!!! If im pulling the trans, it isnt much more work to pull the engine, so the extra little effort is all im worried about.....but i want to know the cost to fix the half case seal (parts and tools $$$)

Thanks

cl1986
12-14-09, 12:05 AM
so just pull them out?? Dont worry about the cost of fixing the half case??

Will be starting tomorrow, was hoping someone had some info.....

tateos
12-14-09, 01:13 PM
You already know everything.

zonie77
12-15-09, 02:35 AM
You keep asking for the price of a half case seal...look up the parts. Ii haven't done one and most of the guys haven't either. I've done several HG's but I can't tell you what it will cost you to buy whatever you don't have.

We're glad to offer what help/advice we can but we don't know everything. A factory manual would be a great help for you, even if it's a year or two off. I did my first HG's with a 98 manual.


You are right on the HG's. If you have no symptoms why do that big of a job.

cl1986
12-15-09, 10:06 AM
well its just a simple questions, these guys have the parts laying right there, they are doing it or have done it, so it shouldnt be that hard, didnt know it was that big of a deal usually people know how much the parts cost them and not just start buying stuff, what if an oil passge plate is $1000?

ill price it out myself i guess, no better place to get these parts from? Thats all im asking.

buggin123
12-15-09, 10:37 AM
Go check out Rock Auto.com, They seem to have the lowest pricing.

zonie77
12-15-09, 10:38 AM
start with rockauto.com or gmpartsdirect.com

Krashed989
12-15-09, 12:52 PM
This is how the FSM says to remove the crankshaft pulley:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/100_1392.jpg

Personally, I believe that all northstar powered caddies from 93-03 are destined to HG failure eventually. So I would change the head gaskets if I were in your shoes and had the money. To remove the tranny, it's easiest to remove the engine first or the whole engine/transaxle combo together. I don't know about the pricing on the halfcase seal because I've never had to do that job.

tateos
12-15-09, 01:59 PM
Personally, I believe that all northstar powered caddies from 93-03 are destined to HG failure eventually. So I would change the head gaskets if I were in your shoes and had the money.

That's what I'm sayin' - an almost inevitable problem, and it's not a hard job to avoid a future chore.

buggin123
12-15-09, 02:03 PM
The GM service calls for a special RTV sealant the replaces the original rubber seal at the upper/lower case junction, one of the GM techs stated the stuff is crazy thick and you need and air powered caulking gun to push it out. I have never used so I can't say wether you can use a heavy duty gun or not. You also will need specific tool to remove rear main seal and another one to install, as it requires huge amount of force to remove and install. Good luck

cl1986
12-15-09, 02:37 PM
Well i have tried searching but came up with nothing

is this the right tool? They are just pins right, i suppse they are really accurate though...

http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-EN-46109-SetGuide-Pin-----_p_40146.html

well heres this one....kinda pricy

http://www.handsontools.com/search.asp?keyword=45930

and yet another $300 tool

http://www.handsontools.com/search.asp?keyword=48072

See, this is why im asking questions, i did not know these tools will cost $1000


I cant find the oil dist plate, rock auto doesnt list it. It doesnt list the tools either.

So do i need front and rear main seals then? Looks like they dont have a kit, get them seperately......this is what im saying i dont know what i need......and cant find the stuff i know i need.

mmmm....that article doesnt mention the front oil seal, just the rear.....what else is it missing?

Good thing i didnt just start on this anyway, theres alot of money here.....

STSS
12-15-09, 03:15 PM
Good thing i didnt just start on this anyway, theres alot of money here.....

Welcome to N* country!

Krashed989
12-15-09, 03:48 PM
The front oil seal is in the timing cover... It shouldn't be too bad.... The rear main seal I just used a prybar to remove, and a seal installer to install the new one.

This is the type of seal installer I used:
http://4x4icon.com/offroad/rear_axle_bearing/brd129ma_d.jpg

Remember when you're installing seals to pack the inside of the new seal with grease to prevent the spring from popping out of position while installing it.


When I first started doing mechanics on my own, this was my seal installer:
http://twist.smugmug.com/photos/64254175-L.jpg
it worked just fine.

cl1986
12-15-09, 04:58 PM
1) I cannot find that type of seal installer....

I did find those other tools for like $20, so im good there.

I do have some pully pullers, 3 jaw pullers, fuel line disconnect tools, and a bunch of that stuff.

2) I only found so far in the service manual how to remove engine from above....ill look into what it says for pulling the trans and cradle or is there somewhere else to look? I did find a post here from Zonnie, said to leave intake and starter in, not sure why the manual says to pull them out.

3) Oh...why am i installing a new oil passage plate??

Krashed989
12-15-09, 08:18 PM
1. Amazon.com: Lisle 12980 Bearing and Seal Installer Master Set: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-12980-Bearing-Installer-Master/dp/B0002SRGFM)

Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 648495 Seal Installer Kit: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648495-Seal-Installer-Kit/dp/B0015UXUCE)

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-12600.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=LIS12600&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

But seriously, a block of wood and a hammer work perfectly fine as a seal installer.

2.) Edited from: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/185373-confused-hell-2.html

Dropping the cradle on a 94 Eldorado and leaving the a/c intact

First
-Spray the two bolts on the exhaust (the ones with the springs) with penetrating lubricant.

Engine bay
-Take off the plastic covers from over the headlights and radiator.
-Take a 13mm ratchet and remove all cross braces (strut to strut, strut to radiator support)
-Unhook the battery and take it out (one 13mm bolt is holding the battery in place)
-Take off the cover over the fuse panel (one or two snap rivets)
-Take off the intake duct (loosen just the hose clamp at the throttle body. The whole air cleaner box and duct will pull right off)
-Unbolt the three 13mm bolts holding each dogbone mount to the radiator support. Flop the dogbones ontop of the engine to get them out of the way. Put the bolts back in their holes to keep them organized.
-Unbolt the airbag sensor from the radiator support and set it on top of the radiator support (you can't get to the plug) 10mm.
-Take out the passenger side fan and unbolt the drivers side fan 10mm.
-Maneuver the drivers side fan so it's on it's side, the bottom facing the passenger side.
-Disconnect the radiator hoses from the waterpump housing.
-Disconnect the transmission and oil cooler lines (if equipped) from the radiator (dont bother with the plastic "quick connect" on the oil cooler line it's almost 16 years old, it will be brittle. Just unscrew it from the radiator with an adjustable wrench.)
-Now that the way is clear, unplug the drivers side fan (a PITA, you need a really tiny screwdriver or a very small allen wrench to stick in there to lift the tab and unplug it). Then pull the fan out from where the coolant hoses are disconnected on the drivers side.
-Unbolt the radiator brace (the plastic thing on top of the radiator) 10mm bolts
-Unbolt the condenser bolts (two 10mm bolts, one on top of each radiator side tank)
-Push the condenser/radiator back towards the engine. Pull them apart to find that the condenser has a flat hook on either side going into loops on the radiator side tanks. Lift up on the condenser and use a long flat object (I used a yardstick) to push the hooks out of the loops.
-Push the condenser/radiator towards the front of the car all the way to gain room to pull the radiator out.
-Use a 1/2" breaker bar to release tension on the serpentine belt and remove the belt
-Disconnect the wires from the alternator
-Look for the two indentations on the exhaust manifold. Using an extension and a 15mm socket, use the indentations to find the two bolts holding the alternator bracket to the engine block
-Unbolt the other two 15mm bolts from the alternator
-Maneuver the alternator/bracket so the bracket is pointing up, then move the alternator to the drivers side to remove it
-Unbolt the A/C compressor from the engine and pull it off of the stud (it's secured with 2 bolts and 1 stud)
-Unplug the cruise control servo
-There are three 10mm bolts on the cruise control servo bracket. Unbolt them.
-Lift up the small black tab on the throttle cable and lift it up out of its bracket.
-Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle lever by pushing the ball at the end of each cable backwards through the lever.
-Move the cruise control servo to the side.
-Unhook the fuel lines using a disconnect tool.
-Unbolt the shifter linkage from the tranny and move it to the side.
-Undo any vacuum lines from the intake manifold and disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle-body.
-There is a vacuum line that comes out from under the passenger side of the intake manifold. Follow it to where it hooks into a Y connection. Disconnect two of the lines from that Y.
-Unplug the fat gray connecter that goes to the intake manifold (should be laying on top of the transmission)
-Unhook the small coolant line from the top of the surge tank
-Unplug the 4 spark plug wires from the front bank of cylinders (2,4,6,8) and move the harness out of the way.
-Remove the four 8mm bolts holding the intake manifold down and remove the intake manifold
-Disconnect the positive wire from the starter (because otherwise you would have to cut it because it will wrap around an A/C line)
-Unplug the wires going to the a/c pressure switch and pressure sensors as well as the blower motor.
-Unhook the heater hoses on the passenger side where they hook into the pipes that run behind the engine. (another PITA, they're usually seized on there. If you have any masochists with you, this is a job for them)
-Unbolt the 7mm bolts from where the wiring harness goes through the firewall on the passenger side. (DO NOT drop anything over there. You may never get it back.)
-Go into the car and remove the under dash panel on the passenger side.
-Unhook the big black plug to the dashboard wiring harness
-Unhook the red white and blue (patriotic. lol) plugs from the PCM
-Disconnect the main vacuum line
-Have someone guide the wires through while you pull them through
-If you have too much difficulty you may want to remove the PCM (one 10mm bolt unhooks the clip from the body of the car, then you lift it up and swing it out.)
-Unhook the positive lead from the fuse block.
-Follow the main engine harness to the fuse blocks and figure out which ones have to be disconnected
-Use a very small flathead screwdriver to release all for corners of the fuse blocks that are attached to the engine wiring harness and lift them up to disconnect them
-Unbolt that big connection next to the fuse blocks and disconnect it.
-Lift up on all four relays to disconnect them from the bracket, then feed them underneath the fuse/relay center
-Unplug the EBTCM (Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module and remove the ground wire to it.
-Loosen the three nuts on the EBTCM (it stays with the car)
-Wrap a wire or something around the EBTCM and tie it to the body somewhere (so it doesn't hang by the brakelines later)
-Unbolt the Powersteering cooler (two bolts) and unclip the hoses.
-Make sure the powersteering cooler and powersteering hoses have a way out of the bottom of the bumper.

Passenger wheel well
-Take out all of the splash sheilds
-Unbolt the brake caliper and remove the rotor. Hang the caliper on the strut for now but remember that the strut is leaving and the caliper is staying so you're going to have to move it later.
-Unplug the wheel speed sensor
-Follow the wires from the strut and the ride height sensor to the plug and unplug them. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the clips for the wires. Tie the wires around the strut to keep organized.
-Remove the 10mm bolt from the top of the ride height sensor.

Drivers side wheel well
-Take out all of the splash sheilds
-Unbolt the brake caliper and remove the rotor. Hang the caliper on the strut for now but remember that the strut is leaving and the caliper is staying so you're going to have to move it later.
-Unplug the wheel speed sensor
-Follow the wires from the strut and the ride height sensor to the plug and unplug them. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the clips for the wires. Tie the wires around the strut to keep organized.
-Remove the 10mm bolt from the top of the ride height sensor.
-Take a really long extension with a universal joint at the end and an 11mm socket. Lift up the boot over the power steering shaft and completely remove the bolt. Use a prybar to lift up on the linkage and it should come free. If the boot makes this difficult, pull it up and stick a screwdriver through the linkage to keep it up.

Underneath
-Take off all plastic and fake leather (rubberized cardboard it seems) panels from underneath the radiator support and the front bumper.
-Unbolt the two exhaust bolts (that you sprayed first) and pull the exhaust back to disconnect the pipe.
-Remove the four 15mm bolts holding the bracket between the engine and tranny in place
-Remove the two 15mm nuts from the bottom of the front motor mount (just to make life easier when it's all out)

Dropping it out
-Get your dolly, or whatever your setting the cradle on, ready. Maneuver it into position
-Hook up the engine hoist to the radiator support. Be careful of the wiring harness. Fish the chain under the wiring harness so you don't pinch any wires.
-Lift the front of the car with the engine hoist to get the jack stand out
-Lower the front of the car onto the dolly or whatever you're using.
-Mark and then undo the six 13mm nuts on top of the struts
-Unbolt the six 15mm cradle bolts
-Slowly lift the car off of the cradle
-You may have to bend the metal A/C line coming out of the condenser core a little to get clearance for the manifold on the A/C compressor to be moved from under the exhaust manifold.
-Keep an eye out for anything that I may have left out in this post.
-When I had the car on a lift to do the job, I found that the thermostat housing had to be removed to clear the EBTCM (four 10mm bolts).
-When the engine is out a little ways, tie the calipers to the strut bolt holes. so they aren't hanging by the rubber hoses.
-Fish the wiring harness (the end with the fuse blocks) through the brake lines under the master cylinder as you drop the cradle, unless you already were able to do so with the engine still in.

I hope this helps... I think that's everything. If you have any questions just ask.

3. I don't know... I've never had to do that. Maybe someone else can answer that... Or you could try calling Jake at Northstar Performance; I'm sure he would know.

cl1986
12-15-09, 08:46 PM
sweet! Thanks!

Heres my progress

Got coolant drained, fans out, some electrical unhooked, cruise is gone, strut brace, batttery, air cleaner all gone. Tranny lines disconnected

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0880.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0881.jpg


I think im disconneting the ac, it needs a charge anyway.

What type of fuel line disconnectors do i need, i had these when i unhooked the ac in my jeep, but these dont seem to work.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0887.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0889.jpg

It looks like i may have that ABS problem, its down on the cradle
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0883.jpg


Do i need to remove the radiator?

Krashed989
12-15-09, 10:29 PM
You do have to remove the radiator if you're leaving the A/C intact, otherwise the alternator can't be removed. If you're going to disconnect the A/C then you can leave it in. Just unscrew the a/c line from the tube that goes to the condenser core and the other line that goes to the accumulator. Disconnecting it actually saves you a lot of work too because you can leave all of that in and you no longer have to remove the intake manifold.

You should probably disconnect that lower transmission cooler line from the tranny rather than the radiator.

Those disconnects look like they should work. Some of them work better than others. I found that sometimes you have to press the connection more together (with the tool in place) and then pull it apart for it to work (rather than just sticking the tool in there and trying to pull it apart).
This is the set I have:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=fuel+line+disconnect&hl=en&cid=5767747002215379204&sa=title#p
This style is better though (more durable, made out of aluminum):
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=fuel+line+disconnect&hl=en&cid=1541002443717460681&sa=title#p

buggin123
12-16-09, 10:36 AM
I don't know if you really need to replace the oil dist plate, but if you want to replace it this is an auction on E-Bay right now for one. auction #330385943451 Just so you know.

cl1986
12-16-09, 01:53 PM
I don't know if you really need to replace the oil dist plate, but if you want to replace it this is an auction on E-Bay right now for one. auction #330385943451 Just so you know.

ya i saw that, but it says 95+ N* ??? Is there a difference? I cant get it in town for $110 from the dealer.....guess id just do the dealer thing if in fact i do need it.

I bought all the other tools, the guide pins, the seal installer (even though a universal one will probrably work), and the stupid caulk guide thing for the rear main.

cl1986
12-16-09, 02:00 PM
Ok, this isnt going very fast for me, and some connectors broke just when i touched them. The heater lines came off surprisingly easy.

Now i know the directions say to pull the harness out of the interior, but the way i see it i can just leave it there and just disconnect the engine stuff.....dont know if this is going to work or not.

If there was a plug in this picture where circled in red it would be 100 times easier.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0893-1.jpg

And the ABS doesnt have a disconnect??? Its hard wired? or do i remove that cap?
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0897-1.jpg

Ive got the tc bolts out now so i dont have to mess with those when its dropped on the gound.

The few PITA connectors are going to be up by the oil filter adapter.....dont know if ill get those. Other than that it looks like the motor will drop out without disconnecting or pulling through the firewall. Am i overlooking something? And this way i dont have to disconnect anything at the fuse block.

buggin123
12-16-09, 03:58 PM
If you procede slowly, you ought to be OK. Dont forget to pull the plug on the trans by the passenger tire. Its kind of a pain to get up in there. My ABS unit was bolted in the same way so I just unplugged all electerical connections and dropped it with the sub-frame. Also there are the brake line connections on the passenger side just behind the sub-frame assembly that need disconnected unless your going to try and hang all the brake stuff, I just disconnected all the brake lines and then bled the whole system I figured it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and flush brake system with fresh fluid since all other fuilds in the car were going to be new. The boot on the link from steering wheel to rack was a huge PITA.

cl1986
12-16-09, 04:35 PM
If you procede slowly, you ought to be OK. Dont forget to pull the plug on the trans by the passenger tire. Its kind of a pain to get up in there. My ABS unit was bolted in the same way so I just unplugged all electerical connections and dropped it with the sub-frame. Also there are the brake line connections on the passenger side just behind the sub-frame assembly that need disconnected unless your going to try and hang all the brake stuff, I just disconnected all the brake lines and then bled the whole system I figured it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and flush brake system with fresh fluid since all other fuilds in the car were going to be new. The boot on the link from steering wheel to rack was a huge PITA.

how did you unplug the connections at the ABS? I cant find any!

Krashed989
12-16-09, 05:34 PM
You have to take off the plastic cover on the ABS... Underneath you will find the connector and 2 relays (one for the ABS pump, and one for the BPMV).
To unplug it, pull the gray plastic lock to the left (passenger side).

It is MUCH easier to just pull the harness through the firewall.

cl1986
12-16-09, 07:16 PM
well, it didnt go so bad with the harness, i found 4 hidden ones, didnt take too long to get em out. I still have to do the ABS

What im stuck at right now is how the harness from the front of the engine comes back and goes under a bracket on the tranny, and i dont see how this is easy no matter which way you pull the harness.

1) Whats up with that area by the trans shift bolt?? Do i just start raising the body and figure it out as i go?

2) Also are there any electrical on the back side of the motor? No O2 sensor in rear i take it? All i found is what looks like power steering sensor and cant see where that ends up at all.

3) Krash, with your method of pulling the harnes you lower everything and leave it all connected? What about the fuse block? You disconnect every wire?

Krashed989
12-16-09, 08:19 PM
If you look at the fuse blocks there is a clip at each of the 4 corners. You just stick something skinny down in there as you pull up on the block and it will release the whole block. 2 fuse blocks, the 4 relays, and the big fat connector with the bolt in the middle all go out with the engine.

The transmission range switch (AKA neutral safety switch) can be unbolted from the bracket and lifted straight up. Then the bracket can be unbolted to let the harness free... You might want to mark all of the bolts because they are the adjustment for the switch.

you can see the whole fuse block still attached in this pic:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/100_1671.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/100_1672.jpg

This one is me putting it back in again, but you can see all the wires flopped in the valley of the engine:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/100_1694.jpg

cl1986
12-16-09, 11:45 PM
oh shit, if i would have known that, i thought you had to unwire the fuse block.

well i have a car about 3" off the cradle, still cant get these fuel lines apart. That makes alot of sense, they make a connection, i buy a tool, it doesnt work......i had the same problem when i took the ac out of my jeep, half of them came apart, the other half got the sawzall.

Ive got about 2 hours into trying to get these apart, dont think i can sawzall these.....so ill probrably have a car 3" off the cradle for the next week.......i dont know what else to do, what do you do when the tool designed for the application doesnt work?

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0902.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0903.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0906.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0904.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0905.jpg



And heres for anyone thinkign im crazy to fix the half case.......the whole car underneath is oil!!

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0898.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0900.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0901.jpg

Krashed989
12-17-09, 02:36 AM
Wow that is one major oil leak!... Don't forget to unbolt the exhaust.

If you look inside of the connector for the fuel lines there are four tabs locking it in place. I once was able to disconnect the lines (with extreme difficulty) with 4 small flathead screwdrivers. That was before I got the disconnect tools..... I suppose if you have some copper tubing laying around you could cut a small piece, then cut it lengthwise on one side so you can fashion your own disconnect tool.... Actually, it's probably a better idea to just put some electrical tape or something on the part of the tool that gets inserted into the line. The idea is to make the the tool thicker so it pushes the springs on the female line further away from the ridge on the male line.

It also helps a lot if you push the lines together (as if you're connecting it rather than disconnecting it) with the tool in place before pulling the connection apart.

Taspeed
12-17-09, 05:53 AM
the fuel disconnect isn't always so easy on any gm vehicle. Your tool should work. put it around the line and push the tool in. once its pushed in pull the line and the tool together in the opposite direction slightly then pull the fuel line off. Its kinda tricky, but will come off with a little effort. I only lost a couple of knuckles when i did mine.

Krashed989
12-17-09, 12:54 PM
It might also help to take the cap off of the shraeder valve and release the fuel pressure.

cl1986
12-17-09, 01:40 PM
It might also help to take the cap off of the shraeder valve and release the fuel pressure.

i got nothing out the shradeder valve, is that normal?? I tried that the other day to help get them apart......will try this afternoon again, maybe go find the metal disconnect tool.

Krashed989
12-17-09, 02:56 PM
i got nothing out the shradeder valve, is that normal?? I tried that the other day to help get them apart......will try this afternoon again, maybe go find the metal disconnect tool.

It depends on how long it was sitting before you tried releasing the pressure... Usually it will hold some pressure for around a day or 2. Some longer than others. The pressure gradually escapes via the return line. If you suspect it's leaking pressure too fast, you might want to check the Fuel Pressure Regulator for a ruptured diaphragm, or check to see if the fuel injectors are leaking.

cl1986
12-17-09, 03:40 PM
ok well the fuel lines did come apart with the tools i had, but it took a big adjustable wrench and a good push before they released.

Now im going up with the body, but the rear of the cradle is going up with it. I did not take the y pipe off of the exhaust but i see no reason why it cant be left, i did seperate it from the cat end pipe.

I cannot see anything holding me, the steering is supposed to come apart itself isnt it? right now there is a boot pulled off of whats looks like a gear box or something.

Any ideas?

Krashed989
12-17-09, 03:56 PM
I cannot see anything holding me, the steering is supposed to come apart itself isnt it?

There is an 11mm bolt in the steering shaft that needs to be completely removed, and the shaft coming out of the rack&pinion is at such an angle that you could probably do some damage to the linkages if you don't separate the two prior to dropping the cradle.

cl1986
12-17-09, 04:17 PM
There is an 11mm bolt in the steering shaft that needs to be completely removed, and the shaft coming out of the rack&pinion is at such an angle that you could probably do some damage to the linkages if you don't separate the two prior to dropping the cradle.

so whats this involve? DO i pull the boot thats half off already? where is this bolt at?

STSS
12-17-09, 04:54 PM
There is an 11mm bolt in the steering shaft that needs to be completely removed, and the shaft coming out of the rack&pinion is at such an angle that you could probably do some damage to the linkages if you don't separate the two prior to dropping the cradle.

You WILL damage the Intermediate Steering Shaft if you do not manually seperate the shaft at the bottom pinch bolt before you lift the body...... ask me how I know.....

If you think the cradle side of the steering shaft is hard to work on, try working on the end up by the steering wheel..... I'm still having nightmares about trying to put that back together.

cl1986
12-17-09, 06:27 PM
well i found the bolt in the manual, after it had me change books and forwarded me to three different sections.....yup, bolt was right there even positioned right.

After that i pulled the car right up. Wish i had known about the steering bolt....might wanna add that to your list of things, 10m bolt also the fuel lines are bolted to the tranny with a bracket 13mm, then i found some more electrical connections i never saw before.....damn thats alot of connections!!

oh, and the harness was being held hostage by the park/neutral safety switch, i thought it was just some bracket till i got it off.....this i realized what it was.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0904-1.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0905-1.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0906-1.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0907.jpg

Krashed989
12-17-09, 08:21 PM
1. Amazon.com: Lisle 12980 Bearing and Seal Installer Master Set: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-12980-Bearing-Installer-Master/dp/B0002SRGFM)

Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 648495 Seal Installer Kit: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648495-Seal-Installer-Kit/dp/B0015UXUCE)

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-12600.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=LIS12600&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

But seriously, a block of wood and a hammer work perfectly fine as a seal installer.

2.) Edited from: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/185373-confused-hell-2.html

Dropping the cradle on a 94 Eldorado and leaving the a/c intact

First
-Spray the two bolts on the exhaust (the ones with the springs) with penetrating lubricant.

Engine bay
-Take off the plastic covers from over the headlights and radiator.
-Take a 13mm ratchet and remove all cross braces (strut to strut, strut to radiator support)
-Unhook the battery and take it out (one 13mm bolt is holding the battery in place)
-Take off the cover over the fuse panel (one or two snap rivets)
-Take off the intake duct (loosen just the hose clamp at the throttle body. The whole air cleaner box and duct will pull right off)
-Unbolt the three 13mm bolts holding each dogbone mount to the radiator support. Flop the dogbones ontop of the engine to get them out of the way. Put the bolts back in their holes to keep them organized.
-Unbolt the airbag sensor from the radiator support and set it on top of the radiator support (you can't get to the plug) 10mm.
-Take out the passenger side fan and unbolt the drivers side fan 10mm.
-Maneuver the drivers side fan so it's on it's side, the bottom facing the passenger side.
-Disconnect the radiator hoses from the waterpump housing.
-Disconnect the transmission and oil cooler lines (if equipped) from the radiator (dont bother with the plastic "quick connect" on the oil cooler line it's almost 16 years old, it will be brittle. Just unscrew it from the radiator with an adjustable wrench.)
-Now that the way is clear, unplug the drivers side fan (a PITA, you need a really tiny screwdriver or a very small allen wrench to stick in there to lift the tab and unplug it). Then pull the fan out from where the coolant hoses are disconnected on the drivers side.
-Unbolt the radiator brace (the plastic thing on top of the radiator) 10mm bolts
-Unbolt the condenser bolts (two 10mm bolts, one on top of each radiator side tank)
-Push the condenser/radiator back towards the engine. Pull them apart to find that the condenser has a flat hook on either side going into loops on the radiator side tanks. Lift up on the condenser and use a long flat object (I used a yardstick) to push the hooks out of the loops.
-Push the condenser/radiator towards the front of the car all the way to gain room to pull the radiator out.
-Use a 1/2" breaker bar to release tension on the serpentine belt and remove the belt
-Disconnect the wires from the alternator
-Look for the two indentations on the exhaust manifold. Using an extension and a 15mm socket, use the indentations to find the two bolts holding the alternator bracket to the engine block
-Unbolt the other two 15mm bolts from the alternator
-Maneuver the alternator/bracket so the bracket is pointing up, then move the alternator to the drivers side to remove it
-Unbolt the A/C compressor from the engine and pull it off of the stud (it's secured with 2 bolts and 1 stud)
-Unplug the cruise control servo
-There are three 10mm bolts on the cruise control servo bracket. Unbolt them.
-Lift up the small black tab on the throttle cable and lift it up out of its bracket.
-Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle lever by pushing the ball at the end of each cable backwards through the lever.
-Move the cruise control servo to the side.
-Unhook the fuel lines using a disconnect tool.
-Unbolt the shifter linkage from the tranny and move it to the side.
-Undo any vacuum lines from the intake manifold and disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle-body.
-There is a vacuum line that comes out from under the passenger side of the intake manifold. Follow it to where it hooks into a Y connection. Disconnect two of the lines from that Y.
-Unplug the fat gray connecter that goes to the intake manifold (should be laying on top of the transmission)
-Unhook the small coolant line from the top of the surge tank
-Unplug the 4 spark plug wires from the front bank of cylinders (2,4,6,8) and move the harness out of the way.
-Remove the four 8mm bolts holding the intake manifold down and remove the intake manifold
-Disconnect the positive wire from the starter (because otherwise you would have to cut it because it will wrap around an A/C line)
-Unplug the wires going to the a/c pressure switch and pressure sensors as well as the blower motor.
-Unhook the heater hoses on the passenger side where they hook into the pipes that run behind the engine. (another PITA, they're usually seized on there. If you have any masochists with you, this is a job for them)
-Unbolt the 7mm bolts from where the wiring harness goes through the firewall on the passenger side. (DO NOT drop anything over there. You may never get it back.)
-Go into the car and remove the under dash panel on the passenger side.
-Unhook the big black plug to the dashboard wiring harness
-Unhook the red white and blue (patriotic. lol) plugs from the PCM
-Disconnect the main vacuum line
-Have someone guide the wires through while you pull them through
-If you have too much difficulty you may want to remove the PCM (one 10mm bolt unhooks the clip from the body of the car, then you lift it up and swing it out.)
-Unhook the positive lead from the fuse block.
-Follow the main engine harness to the fuse blocks and figure out which ones have to be disconnected
-Use a very small flathead screwdriver to release all for corners of the fuse blocks that are attached to the engine wiring harness and lift them up to disconnect them
-Unbolt that big connection next to the fuse blocks and disconnect it.
-Lift up on all four relays to disconnect them from the bracket, then feed them underneath the fuse/relay center
-Unplug the EBTCM (Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module and remove the ground wire to it.
-Loosen the three nuts on the EBTCM (it stays with the car)
-Wrap a wire or something around the EBTCM and tie it to the body somewhere (so it doesn't hang by the brakelines later)
-Unbolt the Powersteering cooler (two bolts) and unclip the hoses.
-Make sure the powersteering cooler and powersteering hoses have a way out of the bottom of the bumper.

Passenger wheel well
-Take out all of the splash sheilds
-Unbolt the brake caliper and remove the rotor. Hang the caliper on the strut for now but remember that the strut is leaving and the caliper is staying so you're going to have to move it later.
-Unplug the wheel speed sensor
-Follow the wires from the strut and the ride height sensor to the plug and unplug them. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the clips for the wires. Tie the wires around the strut to keep organized.
-Remove the 10mm bolt from the top of the ride height sensor.

Drivers side wheel well
-Take out all of the splash sheilds
-Unbolt the brake caliper and remove the rotor. Hang the caliper on the strut for now but remember that the strut is leaving and the caliper is staying so you're going to have to move it later.
-Unplug the wheel speed sensor
-Follow the wires from the strut and the ride height sensor to the plug and unplug them. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the clips for the wires. Tie the wires around the strut to keep organized.
-Remove the 10mm bolt from the top of the ride height sensor.
-Take a really long extension with a universal joint at the end and an 11mm socket. Lift up the boot over the power steering shaft and completely remove the bolt. Use a prybar to lift up on the linkage and it should come free. If the boot makes this difficult, pull it up and stick a screwdriver through the linkage to keep it up.

Underneath
-Take off all plastic and fake leather (rubberized cardboard it seems) panels from underneath the radiator support and the front bumper.
-Unbolt the two exhaust bolts (that you sprayed first) and pull the exhaust back to disconnect the pipe.
-Remove the four 15mm bolts holding the bracket between the engine and tranny in place
-Remove the two 15mm nuts from the bottom of the front motor mount (just to make life easier when it's all out)

Dropping it out
-Get your dolly, or whatever your setting the cradle on, ready. Maneuver it into position
-Hook up the engine hoist to the radiator support. Be careful of the wiring harness. Fish the chain under the wiring harness so you don't pinch any wires.
-Lift the front of the car with the engine hoist to get the jack stand out
-Lower the front of the car onto the dolly or whatever you're using.
-Mark and then undo the six 13mm nuts on top of the struts
-Unbolt the six 15mm cradle bolts
-Slowly lift the car off of the cradle
-You may have to bend the metal A/C line coming out of the condenser core a little to get clearance for the manifold on the A/C compressor to be moved from under the exhaust manifold.
-Keep an eye out for anything that I may have left out in this post.
-When I had the car on a lift to do the job, I found that the thermostat housing had to be removed to clear the EBTCM (four 10mm bolts).
-When the engine is out a little ways, tie the calipers to the strut bolt holes. so they aren't hanging by the rubber hoses.
-Fish the wiring harness (the end with the fuse blocks) through the brake lines under the master cylinder as you drop the cradle, unless you already were able to do so with the engine still in.

I hope this helps... I think that's everything. If you have any questions just ask.

3. I don't know... I've never had to do that. Maybe someone else can answer that... Or you could try calling Jake at Northstar Performance; I'm sure he would know.

It is in my list of things. I didn't have a bracket holding the fuel lines though. :hmm:

I'm glad to see you got it out though! That's half the battle!

KHE
12-17-09, 10:14 PM
well, it didnt go so bad with the harness, i found 4 hidden ones, didnt take too long to get em out. I still have to do the ABS

What im stuck at right now is how the harness from the front of the engine comes back and goes under a bracket on the tranny, and i dont see how this is easy no matter which way you pull the harness.

1) Whats up with that area by the trans shift bolt?? Do i just start raising the body and figure it out as i go?

2) Also are there any electrical on the back side of the motor? No O2 sensor in rear i take it? All i found is what looks like power steering sensor and cant see where that ends up at all.

3) Krash, with your method of pulling the harnes you lower everything and leave it all connected? What about the fuse block? You disconnect every wire?

The wire harness on the front of the engine that leads to the difficult to access connectors has a main connector near the trans. The factory manual makes no mention of it - I discovered it after I had the engine out so I disconnected it and then reattached it to the crank sensors, oil pressure sensor and low oil level sensor while the engine was on the stand.

cl1986
12-17-09, 10:57 PM
ah crap, i must have read that over 4 different times and never noticed the steering shaft bolt thing.....

half the battle?? nah the rest is easy stuff!! LOL

STSS
12-18-09, 01:21 PM
half the battle?? nah the rest is easy stuff!! LOL

Wait till it has to go back in.... pulling stuff apart is WAY easier than putting it back together.

I COULD NOT believe how tight the fit was between the engine/trans and the body when I tried to lower the body back on. There was a half inch TOPS on each side, and I had to move the engine back and forth in the engine bay while I was lowering the body so everything would clear. PITA!

cl1986
12-18-09, 07:09 PM
ok, today was another fight......

after not following directions, or forgetting whatever on the steering shaft bolt.......this time i followed the manual on pulling the power steering pully, which for some reason cant be pulled off.....at least mine cant be. Then i found out it doesnt even need to come off!! WTF!!

So now i have a broken pully, which was the main thing today, only about 4 hours messing with that, first i tried with my kit in red, i have pulled 4 cadillac pully from a 4.9 with it, many on different jeeps. Noticed in the manual that the 4.9 and 4.6 require differnt tools, so i went to do the borrow thing at advance.....got back, their tool was messed up, the pin wedged into the shaft of the pump,, i had to drill it out, so i used my sets pin with their puller, then that broke the pully, so i hit it with a hammer and now there that little part left on their.

So, the usually puller set doesnt work, you need the set with 4 different dies.....the one in black, if you can get that to work.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0908.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0909.jpg

so after finallly finding all the bolts holding the engine and trans together, it was still a PITA to seperate for some reason.....not sure why. Then it just came apart.

anyhow, i cleaned up the trans under the tc, and yep, its dripping right below center of the tc, pooling in that inside 90* corner, not sure if you can see it in the pic, so i highlighted where it was leaking and pooling.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0912.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0913.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0912-1.jpg

Krashed989
12-19-09, 01:18 AM
Yeah... there's only that one 13mm bolt holding the pump in place (#20 in the pic)... The pulley shouldn't have given that much trouble though.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/pump1.gif

cl1986
12-19-09, 04:40 PM
well crap, i pulled the tc seal out, installed the new one. I cleaned up the entire area as i was going to put the tc back on and then fill with fluid to check for leaks.

As i got done cleaning i amost put the tc back on.......then i realized something. That fuild that i thought was pooling wasnt, it was a crack the entire distance of what i had drawn in red. And i thought i had verified that the tc seal was the culprit, turns out some oil dumped out of the tc on removal, that tied into the other fluid that was already there.......i just assumed it all came from the seal. NOT. SOB!!!

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0928.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0929.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0930.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0931.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0932.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0933.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0934.jpg

KHE
12-19-09, 05:19 PM
You might be able to have someone heiliarc the crack with a TIG welder.

cl1986
12-19-09, 07:07 PM
You might be able to have someone heiliarc the crack with a TIG welder.

The trans guys said you have to gut the whole thing, have it welded, the put it back together.....i dont know, maybe they are thinking of a differnt crack area??

To me it looks like i could drain flulid, have it welded (probrably wont be TIG but MIG) clean up on the inside and refill?? Dont know yet, i havent seen what inside right at that location but i cant image anything in the way right there.....

cl1986
12-19-09, 09:37 PM
Ok, finally got the engine on a stand.......had to modify the ears of the engine stand brackets......just another thing to make it take longer.....

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0936.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0935.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0941.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0942.jpg

and then my super half case leak......wonderful!!! At least it leaks evenly all the way around!!

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0937.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0938.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0939.jpg

Krashed989
12-20-09, 04:33 AM
Wow.... It looks like all you would need to remove to weld that crack would be the valve body... A TIG welder would be the best option. Aluminum wire is extremely weak, so if you're using a normal style MIG, get ready for a birdnest in the machine every 2 seconds. You would need a spool gun for the MIG to work good. Plus you need to grind that crack into a "V" and clean the surface extremely good right before welding. If you clean the surface the day before, or even a couple hours before welding, you are no longer welding on a clean surface... Preheating the area prior to welding helps to get a clean weld; however, if you torch where (or near where) the weld is going to be, it will be contaminated with soot and you'll have to clean it again.... Also for welding with a MIG, the heat needs to be very high (probably as hot as the machine will go) in order to get good penetration. Another tip is to limit your welds to 3 second bursts, otherwise the metal will heat up and you can burn a hole through it. Aluminum doesn't give very much warning before you have a huge gaping hole to fill... I learned all of this from the school of hard knocks.

cl1986
12-20-09, 10:10 AM
Ya he has a spool gun on his welder, he welds alluminum often......maybe i should look into someone with a TIG, last time a had a guy do a small weld, he charged me $100, hed probrably charge me $300 for this! Thats why i thought id have my friend do it. Ill see once i drop the pan, pulling the valve body complicated??

KHE
12-20-09, 01:24 PM
Ya he has a spool gun on his welder, he welds alluminum often......maybe i should look into someone with a TIG, last time a had a guy do a small weld, he charged me $100, hed probrably charge me $300 for this! Thats why i thought id have my friend do it. Ill see once i drop the pan, pulling the valve body complicated??

Have it TIG welded. That will result in a much better weld that is less likely to leak fluid. You will probably need to remove the components that are behind the area to be welded.

cl1986
12-21-09, 09:12 PM
Now they are telling me it cant be welded.....they want to get me a new case, then put all my stuff into it since mine is in good working order....$500

Not sure what to do now, do the $500 for my good parts into a good case.....or the $400 tested good from the auto recycler with warranty.....

For now, i just found a 94 sls pearl white for $1000, needs a brake line, an air line fixed to one rear strut, and the factory radio hooked back up.....not bad, and its in as good or better shape than my eldo......and i have been looking at 99 and 2000 year cars and mine is still in better condition than any of them i can find under $10,000 so that motivates me to keep these nicer old cars.

Krashed989
12-22-09, 03:05 AM
Yeah... aluminum is porous... And since the other side of the crack is obviously an oil passage, the aluminum probably soaked up some of that oil in the 16 years it's been running.... So it would be pretty much impossible to get a clean welding surface. You could try it, but getting a good weld will be next to impossible. Since the transmission operates at pressures ranging from 0 to 300psi I would want a really good weld there... which you're not going to get.

So I guess the best option would be to get another tranny. Be sure to get one with the same VIN as the engine (either Y or 9). They have different gear ratios.

cl1986
12-22-09, 10:45 AM
So I guess the best option would be to get another tranny. Be sure to get one with the same VIN as the engine (either Y or 9). They have different gear ratios.

yeah i knew about the ratios......i am curious if the vin 9 would even work? or just have speed and such off or the computer wont even detect it?

I did find one Y used , but its only $100 more to get my parts installed into a new case, and my tranny is in great condition, very little in the pan or magnet. And i would assume they are giving me the updated case, the early 4t80 are the ones that cracked he said, they revised it later.......not sure if thats true or not but they seem to know what they are talking about, esp since they told me what was wrong over the phone without looking at it.

Krashed989
12-22-09, 02:58 PM
Well technically it would probably work, but i doubt it would shift right... And you'll probably end up with a P086 code.

P086 (E086) - Undefined Gear Ratio (Transmission Pressure Control)

KHE
12-22-09, 08:03 PM
$500 for a new case with your trans. guts installed is a good price. You KNOW your trans. performs properly, why take a chance on all the unknowns of a junkyard transmission. Get the new case.

KHE
12-23-09, 08:52 AM
You might also want to replace the input speed sensor, the TCC solenoid, and the side filter and side cover seal while the trans. is out of the car. Both are relatively inexpensive parts but replacement requires removal of the trans.

cl1986
12-29-09, 06:26 PM
ok, got it all apart now i quit messing with the sls.....

looks like some bearings (mainly one) has scratches i can feel, crank is perfect......

i dont quite understand why we are using the factory style seal on the oil dist plate, then not using this same seal on the oil pan and half case.......it works in one area and not for the other??

take a look, do i replace bearings? I really dont wanna take the crank out, its gone far enough already...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0981.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0982.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0983.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0984.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0985.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0986.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0987.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0988.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0989.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0990.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0991.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0992.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0993.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0994.jpg

cl1986
12-29-09, 06:27 PM
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0995.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0996.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0997.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0998.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_0999.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1000.jpg

Krashed989
12-30-09, 02:59 AM
WOW... Nice pictures man!

You should spend the extra time to rust-proof your coolant pipes. They are a fairly common failure point (the paint chips off and it rusts through).
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/coolantpipe.jpg

Also, I don't know if it's just the angle of the camera, but this tensioner/guide looks worn:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/worntesioner.jpg

Eeeeek.... I just realized that the main bearing bolts may actually be stretch bolts.... I hate to say it but If that's the case, you should get new bolts...

"Tighten to 15 lb. ft. + an additional 65 degrees in sequence shown"
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Krashed989/main.gif

cl1986
12-30-09, 10:16 AM
crap....never thought of that about the bolts....they came out like a SOB!! thought for sure there was going to be alluminum stuck to them....wow they were way harder to get out than my jeep motor. And ill have to go get a 15mm deep socket, i have a whole impact socket set, it has everything except 15mm?? dont understand that 15mm is the most common on everything, my shorty socket tried rounding the bolts

ill check the tensioner. So just sand and coat the coolant pipes?

oh, did you see the rear main seal?? that black stuff on the crank is thicker than fingernail, had to be leaking.....the seal looked completely shot

so main bolts? dealer?

cl1986
12-30-09, 03:35 PM
well service manual says nothing about new bolts.....guess ill reuse the ones i got.

still confused as to what seals i will be using, and what i am sealing with the rtv?? Do the black rubber seals (at block to half case) get used or removed and sealed with rtv??

ok i just reread everything, throw out the black seals, use the rtv, then also use rtv on teh outer edge of the facotry installed orange oil dist plate, then rtv the oil pan on......k that makes sense now, so the oil plate uses the orange installed seal and also the rtv on outer edge, k ....think i can do this.

now that i have that figured out, the damn sls tranny is showing po39, guess i cant use that either then.....damn

ejguillot
12-30-09, 04:24 PM
cl1986,

You will want to replace the tensioner shoe that Krashed pointed out (I am on my N* fix). Good news there is that the plastic shoe is available separately from the tensioner, for about $8 + shipping from gmotors.com.

I'm still having my struggles installing the stud kit in my N*, had to buy a die this morning to recut the threads on the large end of the studs. Apparently they were incorrectly cut, see the thread in this forum.

Hang in there! I decided against resealing the half case on my N*, I had very small leaks and my STS has been down too long as it is.

cl1986
12-30-09, 04:35 PM
i saw your and his posts about the studs.....good thing you didnt torque them in and wreck something else huh?

if not reasealing the half case, actually isnt much work for you now seeing your last pic of your engine......I would get the rtv and run around the perimeter like caulk i guess, at least put something there, i have heard of guys doing that while "in vehicle" with good results, dont hurt to do it now though.

since my sls tranny doesnt work either, damn nothing works on that car, didnt know i was buying all junk, headgaskets, tranny dont work, struts leaking air, brake line rusted out, i think the only thing that does work is the heated windshield, the drivers window dont go down either!!! How many things can be broken on one car????

oh, i meant to say i have to wait at least a week to get my good tranny put into a good case now, cant use the free sls one.

cl1986
12-30-09, 04:38 PM
cl1986,

You will want to replace the tensioner shoe that Krashed pointed out (I am on my N* fix). Good news there is that the plastic shoe is available separately from the tensioner, for about $8 + shipping from gmotors.com.

.

whats the part number??

ejguillot
12-30-09, 06:33 PM
The tensioner shoe part number is 12556023, price is $7.73 each (you only need 1).

I am replacing the oil pan gasket, and the oil pressure and level sensors (those 3 were where the main oil leaks were, valve cover gaskets were the rest). Decided to leave my rear main seal alone, it doesn't appear to be leaking any oil either.

cl1986
12-30-09, 07:07 PM
sweet!! they have those in town for $11 list, my price should be $8 LOL

Krashed989
12-30-09, 11:47 PM
The rear main actually left rubber on the crankshaft? Dang. You might want to go over the crank with crocus cloth to make sure it's perfectly smooth. Also do you have a micrometer to see what size bearings you need? The bearings there don't look very worn, but it's always good to be sure with measurements and plastigauge.

It's good that the manual doesn't say anything about changing those bolts. They would probably be expensive. lol.

For the coolant pipes a wire-wheel on a drill works, and then just a rattle can of paint.

The groove in the oil pan is too big to just put RTV. It's better to use the gasket as well as a bead of RTV.

cl1986
12-31-09, 10:42 AM
hmm....so the half case has the same groove when you remove the rubber seals.....i was under the impression that i would remove the oil pan seals as well, at least that what the service bulletin says......

i plan on doing this today, so i hope thats right, i thought the only seal i would be using was the oil manifold plate, and then rtv around the outer edge as well??

Krashed989
12-31-09, 04:03 PM
I know for sure about the oil pan though... The first time I had my engine out I tried to be cheap and just put "The right stuff" gasket maker in there with no gasket. Well, it held for a couple months before starting to leak again. When I did it again I used the gasket and I spread a layer of RTV with my finger on the inside of the gasket (didn't want it to squish and get RTV chunks floating around in the crankcase) as well as putting a bead of RTV on the outside of the gasket. That method is holding much better.

cl1986
12-31-09, 05:05 PM
hate to break it to ya but part # 12556023 is a 8" long nylon guide for one of the other chains.....its not the tensioner shoe thats circled in the pic above.....they dont have the shoe in stock or the center main bearing that i need......next Wed would be the ealiest id get it....

cl1986
12-31-09, 09:01 PM
ok, does anyone know what im looking for for the guide on that small tensioner, obvisouly the part number i got is incorrect.....

will have to wait for a bearing as well.....its the center bearing on the crank, he said that a seperate part number from the other set of 4, ill just replace the center one with the groove in it, dont know how that can happen without messing up the crank but it did.

WIll try to order parts on saturday, just need to know the right part to order thats circled in blue above.

KHE
01-01-10, 09:25 AM
You might want to degrease the block, oil pan, lower case half, etc. before reassembling it.

How deep are the grooves on the tensioner block? I can't tell from the picture - it could be the camera angle. If the grooves are more than .020-.030", then you'll need to replace the tensioner assembly. I wouldn't think the tensioner block would wear any faster than the rest of the guides.

The main bearing bolts are to be reused. You should apply a light coat of oil to the threads so it won't gall when torquing them back down.

The bearings don't look that bad. Make sure to apply some engine assembly lube to the bearings and crank journals when assembling the lower case half. If it were my engine, I'd replace the rear main seal since you're right there. It would be disappointing to go through all that work only to have the engine leak from the rear main seal when it was back in the car. If the new rear main is the newer cartridge design, you would be cheaper to hall the engine to a dealer for the rear main replacement vs. buying all the special tools.

For the oil pan, use the Fel Pro silicone gasket with a bead of the GM epoxy RTV on the outside perimeter of the pan.

cl1986
01-01-10, 12:33 PM
well the center bearing on the crank (which is the one that is different from the rest) has a visible and by feel a scratch or rather groove in it, the rest just show the normal wear on a bearing, cant feel anything even with a fingernail.

ya i have the half case all cleaned up now, thought aobut painting it just to show its been out ( LOL just means someone did indeed spend hours pulling it all apart) and the oil pan i just have to finish cleaning.

But for sure i need the center bearing, dont know how it got grooved as the rest are in great shape, the crank is ok though, cant feel anything on that surface.

Ill just pull the tensioner and post some pics, see what thats all about, i will have to wait for a bearing though.

Ya, rear main seal was shot, see photo on last page, it had left black residue burned onto the crank, i had to scuff it off with some pads. Im using the stock 94 rear main seal, which is not the cartridge style, and i bought the tool for this one anyway so i will use it, its the 38817a tool for the non cartridge seals.

turns out i didnt need the 48072-1 tool as this old rear seal doesnt require any rtv as the bulletin states (which is rather confusing) only the newer 96+ seal requires the rtv and this applicator, so if anyone needs that pm me.

ejguillot
01-01-10, 08:12 PM
hate to break it to ya but part # 12556023 is a 8" long nylon guide for one of the other chains.....its not the tensioner shoe thats circled in the pic above.....they dont have the shoe in stock or the center main bearing that i need......next Wed would be the ealiest id get it....

Uh Oh! Looks like I have to call gmotors.com in the morning.

cl1986
01-02-10, 10:54 AM
great, parts is closed today, will have to wait to monday to order.....

cl1986
01-04-10, 11:28 AM
ordered the tensioner, couldnt get just the shoe, $28 its here tomorrow......the bearing i need is a week out though......this is just an ongoing thing, ill never get this back together....

forgot to ask for part number...

ok obviously these arnt gm part numbers, but here is what i ordered, the lower chain tensioner, the part number you gave me and they had in stock at the dealer is one of the guides shown at the top

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/tensioner.jpg

cl1986
01-04-10, 02:24 PM
heres my tensioner

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1017.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1018.jpg

Krashed989
01-04-10, 04:08 PM
Ohh wow! That was metal to metal already!... I think it would be a good idea to replace that chain also. Since it was metal to metal, there's no telling if the chain got scratched up. You may be installing a new tensioner to a belt sander.

Kzfl8y
01-04-10, 08:48 PM
What a project !!!! Great Pic's and hang in there. I like to follow your repair b/c it may help me someday. Let us know how much you spent to repair and how many hours you spent. I am sure it's many. Some say they can do it in 10 or 12 hrs? Soon you will have one under your belt. It's guys like you that make this form so great.

cl1986
01-04-10, 11:36 PM
Thanks for the encouragement!!! But im still ripping my hair out LOL

I did the cradle drop completely wrong, i unhooked the entire loom with connectors at every sensor and left the wiring and computer intact. It took me a good 2 days to drop it, which doesnt count draining fluids, and doesnt include the "forgot the steering bolt issue" that took another day to figure out. Im now going to pull the computer wiring, and hook it all up off the vehicle, then put it back the right way.

Parts so far i have the oil manifold ($98 at dealer in stock) gm rtv($10 each) power steering pully ($30)(new one is metal by the way) tensioner ($28) Bearings (not sure yet)

Still unsure about tranny, this shop i dont like now, wont answer the phone, i may end up putting the sls tranny in it (so free other than fluid and fitlers, which i have filters i never put in mine still)

The waiting for parts like brearings and stuff is driving me nuts!!! Plus the other car i bought to drive in the mean time had headgaskets out.....

Oh, im leaving the chain, its not rough or too worn (IMO) i gotta stop replacing stuff at some point LOL (pretty sure it will be ok)

Krashed989
01-05-10, 01:34 AM
In that case you should at least take a crocus cloth to it to make sure it's smooth... I work as a mechanic at a local shop, so I guess I end up with a "replace! replace! replace!" mentality from it sometimes. lol

bigblockolds
01-05-10, 07:22 PM
Why would you be just replacing one bearing? I bought a set of main bearings from Rock Auto for about $60 or so. Also, wouldn't it be a good time to also replace the rod bearings since they're right there and are probably worn. Rock Auto had them for $180 (I passed), but NAPA had them for $60 or so. My thinking was that I was in there in hell already, so why not.

cl1986
01-05-10, 07:28 PM
ya probrably.....but i could also rebuild the whole engine and do the headgasket studs as well.....but like i said i have to stop somewhere or take it to the junkyard.....

KHE
01-07-10, 12:10 PM
Do yourself a huge favor and replace the chain that wore the tensioner or you risk ruining the new tensioner. I know what it's like to have to draw the line on replacing things but you don't want to have to do the job again.

I have never seen a tensioner so worn out on one of these engines before. Usually, there are just light wear marks on the plastic shoes.

cl1986
01-09-10, 11:16 AM
okey dokey then,

just ordered the timing chain, $35 will be here tuesday.....i got some pretty good parts guys in town, waiting for bearings anyway i guess.

This just looks like something i dont want to do, how do you replace that chain??

Krashed989
01-11-10, 04:57 PM
You need to take off the valve covers. Use a power steering pump pulley puller for the waterpump drive pulley. As soon as you take the valve covers off, wipe the gaskets off and put them in the freezer. This should make it so the gaskets don't expand too much. then put a bead of RTV in the grove on the valve covers and put the gaskets back so they're essentially glued in there. after that the chain should be fairly straight forward. Just take out the tensioners and guides to relieve enough tension to take out the chains. Once the cam chains are off, the crank chain can come off. Then, when you have the crank chain off, take out the crankshaft completely and pull each piston down a ways so you can turn each cam to the right timing position.

cl1986
01-13-10, 06:30 PM
update, case half, oil plate, oil pan, main bearing all done, pics to come

gonna put the front cover on and fill with oil once the engine goes right side up and on the stand again, the orange paint should be helpful on oil leaks

Krashed989
01-14-10, 02:25 AM
update, case half, oil plate, oil pan, main bearing all done, pics to come

gonna put the front cover on and fill with oil once the engine goes right side up and on the stand again, the orange paint should be helpful on oil leaks

In that case, disregard the last sentence of mine. Instead, turn over the crank a bunch of times until all of the timing marks line up before removing the chain.

cl1986
01-16-10, 11:30 AM
the engine is all back together...... im still not sure if i can do the timing thing, i defenetly dont need that messed up. The chain is sitting here, im too scared to do it though.....


can this be done with just the front cover off?? it almost looks like if you take the tensioners out, all the chains with slide off the shaft??

cl1986
01-16-10, 04:39 PM
basically someone is REALLY going to have to talk me into this, otherwise im not touching it....

SO let me hear it!!

cl1986
01-16-10, 06:07 PM
ok, heres what i did the other day or two.....

Painting
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1036.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1037.jpg

Bettter view of chains (ya the back one is the one i did not replace.....well yet anyways)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1038.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1039.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1040.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1041.jpg

Tensioners, which one is the new one?? LOL

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1042.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1043.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1044.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1045.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1046.jpg

Newer style bearing, my old was slightly different, holes instead of slots, 2nd pic is old one being pushed out

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1047.jpg[http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1048.jpg

Gm rtv completely filling the seal groove ( i used all of the 2 tubes for this procedure)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1049.jpg

cl1986
01-16-10, 06:10 PM
now for the half case, oil plate, and pan

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1051.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1052.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1053.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1054.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1055.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1056.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1057.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1058.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1059.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1060.jpg

cl1986
01-16-10, 06:12 PM
i noticed the tech bulletin had some info wrong......it tried to have me put the oil scraper plate on before installing the main bearing bolts.....ya that doesnt really work since it sits on the inner bolts...

cl1986
01-16-10, 06:15 PM
now i tested for leaks....

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1061.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1062.jpg

cl1986
01-16-10, 06:17 PM
ok so no one helped me out on tranny parts to order so here is what i have, minus the case seal that hasnt showed up.....i sure hope i have the right solonoid?? Please tell me i ordered the right one!!

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1068.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1069.jpg

heres some shots of inside the case cover

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1063.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1064.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1065.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1066.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1067.jpg

KHE
01-17-10, 04:10 PM
From your photos, the heads are still on the engine. Rotating the crank without all the chains could bend valves. Ideally, the head would be off and you'd get the timing chain for the intermediate sprocket installed and then align the timing marks. Then line up the timing marks on the heads, install the heads and then install the camshaft timing chains.

cl1986
01-17-10, 05:25 PM
well im not pulling the heads!!!

so can you line up all the marks pull the chains, hope everything stays where it should be and put back together??

tateos
01-18-10, 11:57 AM
I still can't believe you're going through all this work and not doing a the HG repair. I understand the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" reasoning, but you also should consider that HG failure is so common, and so easy to fix at this point. Besides, it probably is "broke", to some extent - just not enough to show any symptoms yet. When I did my HG job, it was my right bank that was "blown", allowing combustion gases to enter the cooling system, but 2-3 bolts on the left bank were not tight either - there just weren't enough that had loosened enough for the head to lift.

cl1986
01-18-10, 07:29 PM
ya i know,

i am OK with pulling the motor later if (not when) the headgaskets go. Again, im empesizing IF

How many N* made it over 300k miles with no headgasket issues?? Many, many, many of them

tateos
01-19-10, 01:51 PM
ya i know,

i am OK with pulling the motor later if (not when) the headgaskets go. Again, im empesizing IF

How many N* made it over 300k miles with no headgasket issues?? Many, many, many of them

Well, we all base our judgment on our personal experiences. So far, I have experienced 3 out of 3 or 100% HG failure in my N*s, all with less than 100K miles on them. Unlike Destroyer, I still like the cars. I hope you have much better luck with HG than I have.

cl1986
01-21-10, 10:25 PM
ok, i guess this is part of this thread since im using the sls tranny, heres tearing this one down.....

Got this one in 5 hours by myself, it still took a good hour just to remove wheels, unbolt brake calipers, hang them, unplug all wiring at hubs,struts and unbolt brake line clips and all that. This time i DID take out the steering shaft bolt LOL

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20SLS/100_1072.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20SLS/100_1073.jpg

Ran into some issues on the sls i did not have on the eldo. First was the alt wiring had the heated windshield, i began taking wrong stuff off the alt, aparently a harness remains attached and you unplug 3 large wires going to what i think is a convertor box. I was prepared for the fuel lines this time, but they were REALLY corroded on this one (remember this is the car with the rusted brake lines i replaced about 2 weeks ago) one did come apart, the other got the sawzall, my pliers started disforming the connections, I even used WD40 to lube up everything about 2 hours prior, still wouldnt come apart. The steering cooler took a little more time on this one, the sls has a different front valance and i had to remove about 20 of those stubborn push pins (the ones that get ruined when pulled, not like the easy ones that are on the wheel splash sheilds) and then feed the cooler and lines through the sls rubber membrane deflecto thingy (eldo had a hard plastic one)

broke the month old heater core i just put in, one line just would not come off, then it broke, after that the nipple pulled right out with no effort....??WTH

If things go correctly, ill have a 3rd cadillac soon that was hit by a deer, im pulling the STS drivetrain out of it and putting that into the SLS. Good times!!! Haha ya right, about ready to go buy a kia and try to break it under warranty all the way till 100k miles!! LOL

cl1986
01-21-10, 10:55 PM
Oh ya, i still call BS on this one hour dropping cradle thing.......no way in hell!!!

It took me a good day just to mentally prepare, then get the car in the garage, melt the 1/4" of ice off of it so it was dry the next day when i started. Anyhow all my bolts were back where they came from, i dropped about a half cup of coolant onto the floor, and didnt break any wiring clips or anything. Also had to put all parts inside the back seat area since my eldo stuff is layin all over the place in the garage.

cl1986
01-22-10, 08:07 PM
okey dokey

Heres the SLS tranny, the pan actually looks better than mine did, a little less material on the magnet. I also found that one of the engine to tranny bolts at the bellhousing was just layin in the valley area where it went......so the tranny has been out of it before, so it could have been rebuilt, it could be a junkyard one, or who knows why else it was dropped. Im hoping its a rebuild.

This 4T80 has a better style pan gasket on it, the one with the little metal rings so you cant over tighten it, i think ill resuse it (is that a good idea?) rather than use the cheapo parts store one thats just rubber, no inserts.

Im going to pull the side case next, swap in my tcc solonoid and the main filter, plus the new case seal, and then the new tc seal.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20SLS/100_1089.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20SLS/100_1090.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20SLS/100_1091.jpg

Krashed989
01-25-10, 01:15 AM
Run your finger across the gasket. If the silicone ridges are still raised up, then it is OK to reuse it. If the ridges have become flattened and hard (no longer rubbery), then it will most likely leak soon if not immediately after installation. That type of gasket is actually made to be reusable. The timing cover gasket is the same way.

cl1986
01-25-10, 10:00 PM
thanks, that what i thought, i have a seal like that on my jeeps valve cover and ive had it off 10-12 times using the same gasket, no leaks.

ok, well i think that a guy is better off pulling the starter if you are removing the engine from the trans. I had no idea what was fighting me on both engine removals. On install i figured out what it was, the oil pan just does not clear with the starter intact.

Now, heres another good reason to pull the starter!! You never know what you might find in there!! LOL
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1094.jpg
Ya that is a mouse house, probrably from when i bought the car 4 years ago, they stored it in a shed and barely drove the thing.

And here it is installed with the power steering back on and the engine cover painted (mine was all messed up for some reason, looked like crap even after cleaning it) Im not sure if thats noted anywhere but i simply left all powersteering intact on the cradle, the pump just moves down and stays there. Worked for me anyway and i didnt loose any fluid. Instead of trying my luck at the PS pully again, i just used the SLS pump with its good pully, now i can take back the $40 pully i bought at the dealer.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1098.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1097.jpg

Also, Krashed, i found another bracket on the SLS that held the fuel lines to the tranny as was on the eldo as well, if you want to add that to your list you have.

Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it. cradle should be on its way in tomorrow if i get the coolant tubes sanded down and paitned. Are those something that are easier to just order?? or cost effective to order i guess?

tateos
01-26-10, 12:13 PM
I just re-installed my coolant tubes - I've heard they are a common leak source due to corrosion, but they were not too bad at all..but then I live in AZ where rust is never a problem.

Krashed989
01-26-10, 11:27 PM
...Also, Krashed, i found another bracket on the SLS that held the fuel lines to the tranny as was on the eldo as well, if you want to add that to your list you have...

Can you take a picture of it for me, or describe the location and how it's easily removed? I haven't encountered that bracket yet... Maybe our cars were built at a different assembly plant or something? I dunno... But I'll definitely add it to my list. :)

I don't know about the cost of those pipes. I just yanked the ones off of my STS.... My eldo had rubber heater hoses in their place for a while. To replace them with everything assembled already, you would have to lower the cradle a little bit so you can fit the new ones in from the bottom. That's why It's best to just take care of it while the cradle is out already.

cl1986
01-27-10, 06:46 PM
Here we go, today i rolled it under, got it all bolted up, now its all the little stuff, had to quit today early to fix the battery situation on my truck.

The one pic shows the highest i had to lift it, and i even made my dolly 1 1/2" higher this time to allow for the crane legs to pass underneath this time (was a PITA remove engine and trans from cradle last time)You can see that the struts are only a little higher than the engine cover, and even lower than the harness thats layed on the cover, verifying you dont have to raise the car more if the struts are intact.

Also i forgot to feed the fuse box harness end through the brake lines and such while the cradle was half in, so i removed the master cylinder, this actually made alot of things very easy like tranny shifter bolt, fuel lines, and some other wiring, worth the two bolts to remove the master from booster.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1105.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1106.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1107.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1108.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1109.jpg

now the jack stands are under the cradle and the normal little things are left now.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/94%20eldorado/100_1110.jpg

Krashed989
01-27-10, 10:29 PM
Awesome pics! I'm waiting for the post that says you started it up with no problems (knock on wood). :)

cl1986
01-27-10, 11:25 PM
Awesome pics! I'm waiting for the post that says you started it up with no problems (knock on wood). :)

LOL, so am I !!!!

cl1986
01-30-10, 11:34 AM
well here it is, car is all back together and your right, they start right up. Tranny is great, shifts great.

Im getting a code for brake booster vacuum, ill double check the lines, i did break one but fixed it already.

First ten mintues till i drove it, it was doing a 1500rpm idle, wouldnt calm down. After driving it its back to 800

only thing is ive got a ticking noise from the front of the car......exhaust leak?

I would like to check oil pressure? anyone got the override for that?

cl1986
01-30-10, 03:17 PM
clicking noise was my main fan, its shot. It was wobbling all over, not sure if it got broke or stepped on while out of the vehicle or what, i just grabbed the one out of the sls.

Purs like a kitten, tranny is working great.
No leaks so far, yay!!

eyekandyboats.inc
01-30-10, 11:12 PM
to check the oil pressure just unbolt the sensor and bolt on a manual gauge and read it

SeVEEyA
02-01-10, 07:56 PM
awesome effort, congrats on success!

tateos
02-01-10, 08:31 PM
Congratulations on a job well done!

cl1986
02-05-10, 07:35 PM
oh....forgot about the cost part of the thread, i mentioned some awhile back.....

Transmission
Free - transmission from sls with blown headgasket
Free - installed my eldo TCC solonoid and another TCC solonoid (eldo tranny had the crack in it, all internals were good)
$50 - Filter kit for 4t80 (side case filter, screens at bottom pan, gasket)
$6 - tc seal (may have not needed this but i used the eldo tc so i wanted a new seal)
$12- side case seal (you really dont need this as its totally reuseable)
$30 - Dex III fluid (I did not use syn since manual didnt call for it)

Engine - half case
$98 - oil dist plate
$20 - 2 tubes gm rtv
$40 - center main bearing for crank
$28 - crank chain tensioner
$20 - rear main seal
$20 - EN tools for oil pan and half case
$20 - rags
$20 - parts cleaner
$8 - gm orange paint
$8 - 15mm deep impact socket used on main bearings(for some stupid reason all the sets skip this size and of course mine was one of them)

And ya i have the timing chain $35 that i never installed, the $30 power steering pully i didnt need( i just used the whole sls power steering pump) and a wrong TCC solonoid $40 that wont get used or will be sent back

I also have the wrong rear main seal installer ($25) and the rtv rear main tool ($25) that also not applicable for this rear main seal, the half case tech page was wrong on all that stuff. Both for sale if you need them, must be for the 96+ rear main

And the transmission would have been around $700 by the time they put it in a new case, replaced the stuff i wanted replaced and refilled with oil. So i saved a lot by using the SLS tranny.

Otherwise this was a faily cheap project, recommend anyone trying this, if you have either or both problems i had.

cl1986
03-05-10, 06:06 PM
everything is still working great, still no leaks what so ever....

the brake booster code went away after i plugged in the sensor on the booster.....doh! The connector was hidden and it plugs in from underneath, never noticed that before.

Now i just have to find out why im about 2-3 MPG shy of what i should get.....will be checking FPR