: Fixin' to pull the engine

08-07-04, 10:19 AM
I would like to start this post with a great big Thank You! Thanks to all y'all for all the posts and great info. I was scared to death when I bought this car due to all the electronics and also because this beast isn't like anything I've owned previously. But after doing weeks of research on this site I'm way more comfortable with the car on a whole. Now to the real question..........

I'm fixin' to drop the cradle in my 95 SLS in 3 wks due to a wicked oil pan leak. I don't have the shop manual yet, however I do have 20 yrs experience as a mechanic (shop and field) on cars and heavy construction equipment, although I have been out of the field for some years. I've read all the posts about dropping the cradle so I don't anticipate any real problems (crossing fingers). I do have a few questions before undertaking this project. I've got 11 days to start and finish this project.

1. I've seen a post w/ pictures where the car was lifted w/ an engine hoist that had a 4 X 4 piece of wood straped under the rad support...is that all I need to keep from distorting any body components? I want to raise the car as far as possible as the entire underside is coated w/ oil and a friend is loaning me his pressure washer to clean it.

2. What is the best way to seal the oil pan up again?

3. Should I replace my A-B shift solenoids while the trans is out although the trans seems to shift fine and throws no codes? I'm thinking it would be a good idea to replace any seals I can readily get to as well. Trans has 133000K on it.

4. Beside replacing all the vacuum lines while the engine is out, are there some other little things that any of you know about that I should check and replace?

Any help I could get would be greatly appreciated.


08-07-04, 10:55 AM
The 4x4 worked ok. You will see how long to cut it to get maximum support when you put it in place.

You could make a lifting fixture that would attach to the strut mounts. You would have to remove the hood but not a big deal. If you can do some cutting/welding you could make brackets that bolt to the strut mounts, a crosss bar to lift from and use short chains to connect them.I may do that if we do another, The 4x4 works though.

The plastic ac/heater cover on the firewall is probably deteriorated, you may want to change that. Check the heater crossover tube on the back side for rust.

Good Luck!

08-07-04, 05:50 PM
in between the pan and bottom of block is the oil manifold
it has the gaskets bonded on as they are complex shape. on my 96 sts i found all seals leaking so replaced all now no leaks. if you order parts after droping you may run short of time.also found heater plastic cover bad and replaced,would not have known to check with out the advice of this site lol

08-08-04, 11:02 PM
I wanted to re-emphasize that when the engine is out is the time to replace the heater bezel. When I purhcased my 96STS it needed a lot of work. The engine ended up being removed three times in two months. That heater bezel was one reason. They don't hold up to the heat, and begin to flake apart. Once this happens it should be replaced. The engine has to come out to replace it.

I would poke at the plastic cover that covers the blower motor, and air conditioning. If it cracks or is already cracked, it is time to be replaced. I had to order one. That could cost your a day or two.

Also, if you need any transmission servos, the best time to replace them is when it is on the bench. My transmission went bad about a month after everything else was repaired. The check engine light was on all along and some of the codes indicated transmission problems. I thought that since it drove well, it could wait.