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Head Gasket Repair, now noticed block is cracked

3K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  ponyboyt 
#1 · (Edited)
Guys, thanks to all the great reading on this site, I tackled dropping the cradle on my 85k mile 98 Eldorado to replace the leaking head gaskets. Everything has been going smooth. I installed Norms inserts, cleaned everything up, got the heads resurfaced, installed new valve stem seals, got everything ready for the heads to go back on. Then I noticed the worst thing. There's a crack in one of the cylinder bores. F_ck!

Obviously a new block is needed. What years are interchangable? I just looked at what's on ebay, I don't have the budget for a rebuilt long block. I'm not sure where I'm going with this car now. Might just cut bait and part it out. Any suggestions?
 
#4 ·
98 engine is 98 block. Cracked liner is not repairable. Go back to square 1 and find another low mileage 98 in the proper VIN (Y or 9) and swap your parts onto it. The car is probably worth saving.

Recognize this ????..............1970 marine conversion with tricks
 
#5 ·
Well, both were bad. Head gaskets were definitely blown out and also the block cracked.

I think I have found a complete engine locally for $1000 delivered. Hopefully that will check out OK and maybe I can sell some parts off it to recover some of the cost. Obviously a dumb move to check for cracks after I spent time/money on the inserts. Maybe a lesson for others....:thepan:

Both head gaskets looked like this, deformed and pushed out into the water jacket.


Block:
 
#6 ·
I don't normally sell just blocks but I might be able to make an exception. The reason I don't is due to a shortage of blocks. I find the odd cracked one, or one with cylinder taper, or corrosion so some of the time I just have to chuck 'em into the scrap pile.

The block will work all the way back from a 1993. But- for 93-97 blocks you will need to use the 93-97 style timing cover. For 93-95 blocks you will need to drill and tap a hole in the valley for the knock sensor. Easy to do. Early models had a different style oil pump and a different size balancer bolt (15/16 socket instead of the usual 3/4). Whatever you do, never mix-and-match cranks, oil pump drive sleeves, and balancers. Keep these as a set.

1993-1995 engines had ridges on the aluminum part of the cylinder walls where as 96-present has smooth walls. The ridges may add strength to the cylinders?

Oh- and the upper and lower block portion must be kept together as a set. Mix-and-matching these may lead to main bearing failure. If one was desperate you could attempt to mix-and-match upper and lower blocks, but you'd have to plastiguage each bearing/journal to make sure the required bearing-to-main journal clearance is there.

I can probably come up with an empty block for you, it'll be probably a 96-97 (will work with no problems in the 98 Eldorado and Deville but not in a 98 Seville due to mounting bolt locations) along with the required timing cover. Drilled and tapped for studs and studs, nuts, and washers included for $650.00.

You'll just have to install your rotating/reciprocating assembly and heads. I'll need a bit of time to pull an engine from one of my parts cars. A couple weeks should do it. Just let me know. I may not be on the forums much for a while (too busy) so just send an email to info@northstarperformance.com
 
#8 ·
i wonder if bligblockolds feels like i did the day Jake told me my new used engine would work after being told by so many people it wouldnt :yup: I had taken a gamble on that one, and after a post just like that one /\ i got it all done :)

So i dont need to say now that many will fit with some MINOR mods. (i got lucky with mine, the block had both holes drilled for knock sensor). My luck was finding a donor car with an engine that had been replaced by the dealer.
 
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