: 2009 CTS-V Remote Amp Turn-On Wire?



Tony407
11-19-09, 11:13 PM
I've searched with negative results...

Okay, this is totally frackin' ridiculous! Up until a couple of days ago I've been tapping into some of the speaker leads coming from the Bose amp in the trunk to get my remote input. But for some odd reason it's quit working lately and only provides enough voltage to intermittently turn my aftermarket amp on. Additionally, ever since I initially wired it I noticed that every time you open or close or lock or unlock the doors or open the trunk it gives the wiring coming out of the Bose amp a temporary voltage spike that in turn activates my amplifier and THUMPS my sub. But whatever, at least it worked...

But for whatever reason these wires no longer provide enough voltage (around 6 volts tops) to trigger my amp to come on. Again, whatever...I'll just find another wire in the myriad of wires in the trunk that provides 12 volts whenever the stereo is on, right? WRONG!!

I just spent the last two hours with my voltmeter checking EVERY wire and fuse in the trunk and could not find ANY that provided a dedicated circuit for the stereo. Both radio-related fuses in the trunk fuse box provide 12 volts ALL the time, not just when the radio is on.

Seriously? Is there not a single wire in the trunk that only provides a 12 volt source when the stereo is powered up? Am I missing something? Even the main, large red w/ black stripe power wire that goes into the Bose amp has power running to it ALL the time.

Am I going to have to settle for a wire that is powered at all times when the ignition is on? I mean, I guess this is fine assuming I want my amplifier on whenever the car is running regardless of whether I'm listening to music or not. I'm just a little miffed at my inability to find what I was looking for.

Rant done.

If someone knows something I don't, please chime in!

Tony

ccclarke
11-20-09, 11:43 PM
Welcome to the world of Retained Accessory Power. You need to shell out the bucks for a shop manual and select the proper power feed to meet your needs for the location you desire. Improper installation of aftermarket accessories pretty much guarantees you'll throw codes on a Tech 2 when diagnostics are run, so proper connections are a must. That may also explain the other inconsistencies you're experiencing with your stereo during power-up. The good old days of splicing in components are all but over in newer cars, with their integrated electonic systems. Without the schematics and knowledge of how the systems are inter-related, it's easy to break the first tenant of auto DIY: Do no harm. Thumping your sub should have been the first clue that you had issues.

CC

Tony407
11-21-09, 02:50 PM
Welcome to the world of Retained Accessory Power. You need to shell out the bucks for a shop manual and select the proper power feed to meet your needs for the location you desire. Improper installation of aftermarket accessories pretty much guarantees you'll throw codes on a Tech 2 when diagnostics are run, so proper connections are a must. That may also explain the other inconsistencies you're experiencing with your stereo during power-up. The good old days of splicing in components are all but over in newer cars, with their integrated electonic systems. Without the schematics and knowledge of how the systems are inter-related, it's easy to break the first tenant of auto DIY: Do no harm. Thumping your sub should have been the first clue that you had issues.

CC

Is there an online version of the shop manual?

Thanks,

Tony

ccclarke
11-21-09, 09:22 PM
I doubt you'll find the shop manuals in downloadable format, though somebody may be able to scan the info you need and post it for you. Besides the schematics, you need the sections that explain how everything is supposed to work to get the full benefits. The shop manuals are a couple of inches thick and cost about two hours of shop labor. My CTS-V manual is 4" thick and the XLR has (two) 4" thick books. They're totally worth the investment if you plan to do anything yourself on your vehicle. They can be purchased directly from Helm or ordered though you dealer.

CCC

ewill3rd
11-21-09, 10:15 PM
I'd have to do some major searching but I'll tell you one thing you are up against.
There are no 'switched 12V wires' for when the radio is on, probably not even anywhere on the car.
Most of our on board electronics get power all the time and are turned on by the "power mode master" module via a data message.
Gone are the days fo a switched input.
The wires on the ignition switch are just inputs to the PMM (whichever module they use on that one) and it sends out messages to wake up all the components of the car.

If I can find time I might look but you'd think I was crazy if I told you how busy I am right now.

Tony407
11-21-09, 11:30 PM
I sure appreciate the input you two have given. Even if it doesn't help me find the appropriate wire, it makes me feel better knowing that I'm not stupid and/or crazy (at least as it pertains to this subject that is.)

I guess I'll just have to be happy tapping into a 12 volt wire near the trunk fuse box than comes alive when the ignition is on.

Do either of you know if EVERY wire in the system gets a bump when you open a door or the trunk? It's easy enough for me to check but I thought I'd ask first. I don't like my amp turning off and on all the time.

And here's a really stupid question (if you believe in stupid questions.) Are there any problems I should be concerned with in terms of installing an Optima battery? I feel weird asking this because I know a battery is a battery, but I didn't think I'd be having a conversation about the lack of a remote input wire either!! I haven't checked the physical dimensions yet, but I would really like to stick a yellow top back there because I listen to the stereo quite a bit while I'm parked with the engine off in my garage. I've already had the OEM battery go dead on me once.

Tony

ccclarke
11-22-09, 03:57 AM
Tony,

The only stupid question is the one never asked.

Like Luke said, with the electronics installed in late model vehicles, times have changed. You have to understand systems integration and digital electronics if you want to get intimate with your electrical system. In the old days to lower a window, you pressed a switch that applied power to a motor (or relay to a motor) and activated the circuit. The CTS-V uses an integrated data buss to send messages, using switch presses as interrupts. When you press the switch to lower the window, a command is placed on the buss. The message is routed to the appropriate door module which applies power to a motor. When the window reaches the high or low limit, a message is sent to the door control module and power to the motor is removed. Your stereo works in a similar way. When the control head is energized, it commands the amp to follow suit. A cabin microphome measures ambient noise levels and adjust's the amp's output to compensate for changing decibel levels by placing a message on the data buss.

Retained Accessory power is applied after the ignition is shut off until a door is opened or the countdown timer reaches zero--this is to protect the battery. You can replace your battery with the appropriate Optima, but the RAP will still de-energize the vehicle's systems as before. You can leave it in ACC or Ignition ON, but you still run the risk of depleting the battery if the built-in self-protection features are bypassed. The newer cars are much more power-hungry and can do some crazy things when the battery voltage gets low.

Today's auto mechanics are multi-disciplined repair technicians and have their hands full keeping abreast of the new technologies that are arriving at a frantic pace in vehicles these days. DIYers are a dying breed. I got sick and tired of taking my XLR in for every little thing that happened, since it's so dependent on it's 23 inter-connected modules. The XLR is the most complex thing I've ever been in (with the exception of love.) I had to buy a Tech 2, but can now diagnose, test and repair just about any electrical or top issue that occurs, though I had to hit the books long and hard to make sense of how the different systems (and two data busses communicate.) Upgrading even a stereo used to be a simple afternoon exercise. Nothing is simple anymore when it comes to cars.

CCC

ewill3rd
11-22-09, 07:15 AM
1. Using an optima battery is okay If yours has the battery in the trunk, see what size it is, I haven't messed with those yet. The underhood ones were all 101 on the last variant of the V and installation was a problem because of the top posts, they can hit the hood and caus problems.

2. I might be able to pour over some wiring and find you something but I am not sure what. I am not even sure if the fuse boxes are in the same place on the '09 as I have not messed with any for anything. You could always wire something to 12V and then put a small switch somewhere but I know that would be a pain.

You are not stupid or crazy, these cars are pretty complex as noted.
It took me a lot of study and work to know what I know and I still don't know it all.
Some of our vehicles have over 30 computers on them these days. Before we only had to know basic electricity, now we have to deal with complex computer systems and know how to fix the "network" if something should go wrong.
Don't get me started.... :lol:

curtc
08-18-10, 07:49 PM
Old thread but why not just tap into the ignition fuse? That's all I had to do in my 2001 Seville for my amp to turn on and off with the car...ACC = amp off, ON = amp on

jlee3
09-10-10, 06:46 AM
On my 2008 CTS I used a PAC SOEM-T 2-Channel Premium Line-Out Converter with Remote Turn-On Trigger. I did not use the converter feature...just the trigger.

masterswn
08-11-13, 03:06 PM
I just ran a remote wire to the front fuse block in the engine to the ignition... problem solved. fairly easy to do... didnt have to take any paneling off.

BLACKllac
08-22-13, 11:09 PM
I just ran a remote wire to the front fuse block in the engine to the ignition... problem solved. fairly easy to do... didnt have to take any paneling off.

can you elaborate a little please? i am now in the same boat that you were in. i have a 2008 cts. maybe a pic of what you did would be great! please and thank you very much!

CTS555
09-18-14, 09:36 AM
I just ran a remote wire to the front fuse block in the engine to the ignition... problem solved. fairly easy to do... didnt have to take any paneling off.

Yeah a few pics would be very appreciated since i too own an 08 and have the same issues with the remote wire