View Full Version : Help! 87 Fleetwood stalls at low idle spl explorer 11-06-09, 09:08 PM Hey guys
So last time I drove the car it ran like a champ. 3 days later (today) I started up and it idle really badly. After 3 or 4 mins of idling it starting idling like normal. Really smoth. So I leave my house and less then a mile away at a stop sign the car dies on me. I then start it up and drive it home. I start it again an hr later and it is idling bad again. I go to drive it down the street and it dies less then a mile down the road. When it died the car was just coasting at about 10 MPH. Seems to die when im not pushing on the gas. Also wile I have it idling in park I will give it gas but when I let off the car will start to sputter and almost die or just die…
Recently I changed the fuel filter and it passed smog last weekend…
People have suggested it could be the fuel pump or the cat is clogged. Any other opinions before I start going down the list…
Thanx! sven914 11-07-09, 12:08 AM It sounds like your getting EGR at idle. It is common for the EGR valve to get gummed up with carbon and to stick in the open position, which allows exhaust gas to flow into the cylinders. This causes a rough idle and stalling at slow engine speeds. The EGR valve isn't hard to remove; it's on the driver's side of the engine mounted to the intake manifold. Just spray it down with Carb Cleaner, and maybe use a pipe cleaner to get into the holes.
The EGR is vacuum controlled, by a computer controlled solenoid. Replace the vacuum line from the valve to the Top Sol (the box on the driver's side with 6 vacuum ports (SOL ASM on the emissions label); the EGR plugs into the fourth one toward the fire wall) to rule out a vacuum leaks. The Problem could also be a malfunction in the Top Sol, but rule out the EGR Valve first. spl explorer 11-07-09, 04:33 AM It sounds like your getting EGR at idle. It is common for the EGR valve to get gummed up with carbon and to stick in the open position, which allows exhaust gas to flow into the cylinders. This causes a rough idle and stalling at slow engine speeds. The EGR valve isn't hard to remove; it's on the driver's side of the engine mounted to the intake manifold. Just spray it down with Carb Cleaner, and maybe use a pipe cleaner to get into the holes.
The EGR is vacuum controlled, by a computer controlled solenoid. Replace the vacuum line from the valve to the Top Sol (the box on the driver's side with 6 vacuum ports (SOL ASM on the emissions label); the EGR plugs into the fourth one toward the fire wall) to rule out a vacuum leaks. The Problem could also be a malfunction in the Top Sol, but rule out the EGR Valve first.
Ok thanx. I will clean it tomorrow and see how it goes :thumbsup: spl explorer 11-07-09, 04:15 PM Ok so I sprayed a little carb cleaner in the valve holes and cleaned it with a wire brush. Nothing really came out.
Put it back on and started the car. It’s still running really bad and now a decent amount of smoke is coming out of the exhaust… sven914 11-07-09, 09:09 PM Did you get a look at the gasket. If might have been damaged, causing a vacuum leak.
What color is the smoke? White means a rich running condition/ black blue means oil is being burned by the engine. spl explorer 11-07-09, 10:20 PM Ok so I went to the local pick n pull and got another EGR valve and put it on. Started the caddi up and it idled normal and no smoke. Put it in reverse and backed up and everything was fine. Drop in it drive and it instantly died on me. Put it in park, started it up again. Went to put it in drive and give it gas and it died again. Tried again and the same so I pushed it back and park it. PLZ HELP ME :crybaby: spl explorer 11-07-09, 10:23 PM Did you get a look at the gasket. If might have been damaged, causing a vacuum leak.
What color is the smoke? White means a rich running condition/ black blue means oil is being burned by the engine.
I did buy a new gasket and put it on with the valve from pick N pull...
When it did smoke it apeared to be a white smoke but I didnt really study the color of it spl explorer 11-07-09, 10:47 PM I’m starting to think it’s the fuel pump. What would symptoms of a bad mechanical fuel pump be? sven914 11-08-09, 10:53 PM I'm not positive on the symptoms of a bad mechanical fuel pump (never had to deal with one), but I do know the procedure to test the pump performance on the 307.
The procedure is as follows:
1. Test the Pump by connecting a hose from the carburetor fuel inlet to a suitable container. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 seconds. The pump should supply a 1/2 pint of fuel. If it supplies less, continue. If it supplies the correct amount, go to step 4.
2. Disconnect the inlet hose at the pump and connect a vacuum gauge. Crank or run the engine until maximum vacuum pressure is reached. If the reading is less than 15 inches, replace the pump. If the reading is 15 inches or more, continue.
3. Check the fuel lines for kinks and splits, by disconnecting each section of line and connecting a vacuum gauge. Crank or run the engine until maximum vacuum is read. The vacuum should be at least 15 inches, and if it isn't, replace that section of line.
4. If the fuel lines and pump check OK, check the in tank unit for restriction and dirt.
5. Clean fuel tank and replace strainer if necessary.
Fuel flow is only half of the issue. If the fuel pump tests fine, then the problem maybe in the fuel pressure.
The procedure for testing fuel pressure is as follows:
1. Disconnect the fuel inlet line to the carburettor, and install a rubber hose (8-10 inches long) over the line. Attach a low pressure gauge. Hold the gauge about 16 inches above the fuel pump and pinch off the fuel return line, if equipped.
2. Start the engine and run at slow idle (using the fuel in the carburettor)
3. If pump is operating properly, the pressure should be an constant 5.5-6.5 PSI. If pressure is too high or too low, or varies significantly, replace the pump.
4 After tests are completed, remove hose from the inlet line and reconnect the carburettor. Slacker 11-09-09, 03:37 PM Did you get a look at the gasket. If might have been damaged, causing a vacuum leak.
What color is the smoke? White means a rich running condition/ black blue means oil is being burned by the engine.
I always thought it was...
White - condensation in exhaust or coolant burning
Blue - Oil burning
Black - Rich running condition sven914 11-09-09, 06:28 PM I always thought it was...
White - condensation in exhaust or coolant burning
Blue - Oil burning
Black - Rich running condition
White is condensation burning off, but that usually only takes place on cold start up and only for a few minutes. And it does indicate a head gasket leak, if there is a lot of smoke after the engine is warm. A slightly rich mixture will cause small amounts of white smoke (maybe more grayish) after the engine and exhaust have warmed up.
Black is indicative of a rich mixture, but it's excessively rich where the engine is dumping gasoline, and it is being burned with very minute amounts of air (clogged air filter comes to mind). spl explorer 11-12-09, 02:03 AM Ok, so it ended up being the fuel pump... thanx everyone for there help | |