Hey everybody,

So, plain and simple, I need to replace both front wheel bearings. I've done some research, and I understand it isn't a very hard job to do yourself. A local auto shop wants $800 to do it, and I am a broke college student, and can not afford to do that. However, I am an engineering major, and I get off on fixing things, so I'd like to do it myself, and save money.

Some things I need to know:
-Is it necessary to purchase a torque wrench? Does it need to be set at a certain tightness? and if so, how tight?
-I have the basics down for replacing wheel bearings, but is there anything specific I need to know about my model, or it being front wheel drive?
-What tools will I need? I have a basic tool set, but it's more like a house-hold tool set, and it's about the size of a briefcase.


....Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you're going to do your own repairs, you'll need a torque wrench.

And a 34mm socket.

It's a pretty straight forward job. You will need a torque wrench for the Hub Nut the torque value is 110 ft lbs. You should be able to borrow a torque wrench and the large socket for the Hub Nut from your local auto parts store. Both Auto Zone and Advance have a loan a tool program.

You may also need a puller to separate the hub from the axle if it's stuck. I didn't need one when I did my 2000 but, if you do they should also be available to borrow under the loan a tool program.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp


53540

Thanks a lot for the help man, I actually have a buddy with a torque wrench, and l've decided to invest in a decent tool box.

Do you really think it's necessary to get a puller? I mean, if it is stuck on there good, do you think it could be pryed off somehow w/out breaking anything?

Do you really think it's necessary to get a puller? I mean, if it is stuck on there good, do you think it could be pryed off somehow w/out breaking anything?

Maybe, but the puller makes it really easy.

If it is corroded in place, sometimes even a puller won't do it. Prying certainly won't. Have a friend hold the flat end of a ball peen hammer on the axle shaft. Now you get a big heavy mallet and give the ball end a good whack. That should sheer the bond.

A BFH always makes any job go faster. No tool in any toolbox can replace a 5lb sledge. LMAO

A BFH always makes any job go faster. No tool in any toolbox can replace a 5lb sledge. LMAO

We used to joke around in the army motor pool that the perfect tool box contained a graduated set of hammers.

;)

:sneaky:..................don't forget the Metric crescent wrench.

:sneaky:..................don't forget the Metric crescent wrench.

While you're looking for that, get me a can of squelch and a box of grid squares.

:lildevil:

Mechanics credo. If it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer.

i replaced both of mine last summer and il tell ya what! without the right tools its gonna suck! i believe on my deville the 3 bolts holding the hub in place were torx type fittings (i have no idea why gm tortures us with these odd ball sockets and such lol) as mentioned by the other gents in the thread getting the darn thing out is a PITA. i didnt have a puller ether. i used a method similar to rangers. when i finally removed it the stamped metal cap (i believe its blue in color) on the back of the old hub assembly broke off and got stuck. i just used a flat head screw driver and poked it out.

Not sure if you've already done this work, but I just performed the same repair on my '99 Deville. The three bolts are NOT torx bolts, they are regular 6 sided bolts. VERY IMPORTANT - you must use high quality sockets that are 6 point, not 12 point! I read up on this extensively on this site before doing the repair and I can say with absolute certainty that by using the 6 point sockets I had a much more secure fit than by using the 12 point setup. So in advance of the repair, I purchased two sockets (one deep and one normal) with the 6 point setup. Using them with various length extensions, I was able to remove the bolts without much trouble. You will absolutely want/need to torque these to spec after the repair is done. Good luck!

Andrew

I haven't started doing this yet, and thanks for the info., I wasn't looking forward to buying another set of sockets...although my '97 might be different from your '99, I'm not gonna buy them unless I find out I need them for sure.

Once you removed the brake rotor, how difficult was the rest of the job? Is there anything I should expect while doing the job? How tight did you torque the bolts to?

thanks, jake

I just threw away all my 12 points and replaced them with 6's (tired of rounding bolt heads). Should have done it years ago. I don't even know why they made 12 points. :mad:

I don't even know why they made 12 points. :mad:

12 point bolts are quite common in the aviation industry. They can make the head of the bolts smaller for weight savings. That's the only place I've ever seen a 12 point bolt or nut actually in use. If you ever need any I've got a whole tool box full of them. :)

The purpose of 12 point is to make it easier to index the wrench. In other words the wrench fits on the bolt at 12 angles instead of six.

I understand that on a box wrench, but that's irrelevant on a socket.

I understand that on a box wrench, but that's irrelevant on a socket.

The 12 point socket was invented to boost sales of the easy out.

Roger that.

just payed 575.00 for 2 front wheel bearings and 140.00 for labor . then a friend of mine found wheel bearings for m car at auto zone for 260.0 for the pair.. incredible markup, i took a hit

After doing six of them on 86-93 Devilles, it is very simple, but will take an hour or two. The hub assembly used to be $65.

When you take the axle nut off start with the tire on the ground, and if that doesn't get it put a cold chisel in the rotor vent slots, so it is blocked by the caliper bracket.

You will need a long 24-inch breaker bar, stands and a floor jack used to turn the breaker bar handle because they are on so tight. You'll need a new spine if you don't. Borrow a torque wrench, and also get a torx bit or socket with a long shaft to fit in there through the access hole. You will definitely have to borrow an axle puller from Advance or AutoZone.

$104 each at Napa, for my car.

Thanks for the help everybody, I'm gonna need it. I purchased my bearings from a site online, and they were $150 for both, here's the link.

http://www.justparts.com/AutoParts/97_01_CADILLAC_DEVILLE_SEVILLE_FRONT_NEW_HUB_WHEEL _BEARING/19801613.html

Hopefully I didn't get some piece of shit bearings, but it does come with a good warranty and return policy, so I don't think they're too bad.
They were shipped on the 13th, so I should have 'em by the end of the week and get started on it soon.

I went with Timken parts when I replaced them. I searched this site and found that Timken was the brand recommended by most. I saw some "no name" brands available for a little less money but decided to go with a known good product.

I just followed the manual for bolt torque - don't remember off hand. One trick I found that was helpful for removing the top bolt was to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side or the other to better expose the rear side of the hub. This made it easier to get in there. Also, I found that one of my bearings had rusted in place and I had to hammer and pry it out of the hub. I destroyed the old bearing in the process but the new one went right in.

Andrew

It's 107 ft lbs (145 Nm) for me.