: new here, have questions on 2000 Catera



Jea3cd
11-01-09, 11:21 AM
Hey all, I'm new here to the forums. Great info on these boards. However, I have a few questions for those that know this car.

First off, I'm an old mechanic, and former crew member to a NHRA Pro Stock team. But I haven't really turned wrenches in the last 10 years, other than typical maintenance on my GMC Jimmy, and wifes Pontiac Montana. I do still have a well stocked toolbox. That just a little run down so you know I'm at least a little mechanically inclined.

Last year, my wife and I lost our business, so I started working part time for Penske, at a used car dealership. I saw a '98 Catera on the lot, and wanted to test drive it, to replace my gas guzzling Jimmy. I fell in love with the car, but not for $6K. So about 8 months ago, or so, the dealership got a 2000 black Catera, from the auction, and said nothing worked in it, no power, engine wouldn't turn over, ect. ect. They towed it in on a Penske trailer, and when they pushed it off the trailer, they ripped the lower part of the bunmper wth the fog lights.

So a few months ago, the car is still sitting there, so I went and asked my boss and asked if I could buy the car as is from him. He said I could have it for $600 bucks. So I'm about to pay for the car now. But the mechanic told me to go play with it, before buying it. So the car is mine, I just haven't paid for it yet.

So the other night, after hours, and the boss and mechanic not in sight, I put an jumper pack on the car, wiggled the main power line, and bam, the radio came on, all the lights lit up. I turned the key, and it started up.

The car seems to be very well loaded, with a sun roof, bose cd/cassett, tan interior, no body damage other than the front bumper, all the same mag wheels on it. Very nice looking car, if it got a little TLC.

When I really looked under the hood, it has stains around the over-flow bottle, where the radiator cap is. The engine ticks, like a lifter. But the oil is dark, not milkey.

So here is my questions:

1. Do you guys think the engine might be okay, it idles fine, other than that ticking? I'll do a pressure test on the coolant system, but like I said, with the stains on the right side of the car, it looks like it might have overheated and maybe somebody opened the cap?

2. I'm finding it hard to find the front bumper, in black if I can for it. Where would be the best place to find a bumper for it?

3. What kind of gas mileage can I expect from this car on the highway? I live in Florida, so its all flat driving at 70mph or so.

4. I see on Ebay they have cross drilled rotors with pads, is it worth it, or save up for GTO brakes? Any modifications to put them on?

5. The weather stripping around the front windshield is dry rotted bad, where can I get a new one, without having to sell my GMC to pay for it? ;-)

Thanks all.

Joe

R-Caddy
11-01-09, 02:50 PM
Hi Joe. Welcome to the board.
I do not have all the answers, but I will try to help a little.
1. What is the mileage on the car? Try changing the oil first and some of that ticking may go away. If it does not smoke and lose coolant, chances are that it hasn't overheated... too much.
2. Try eBay and local junk yards for the bumper.
3. With a good running car you can expect anywhere from the advertised 24mpg to 28mpg or so. They do much better on the highway than they are supposed to. City driving is a little tricky, but an easy pedal should return 17-19mpg.
4. 2004 GTO calipers with brackets and hoses are almost a bolt-on deal. You will have to cut a little bracket off the hose, but that's it. If you do upgrade to GTO front calipers, you can use stock size rotors, but will have to get either 04 GTO pads or C5/5 Vette pads. Otherwise, those eBay rotors are OK, they just look different. I have GTO calipers on both of my Cateras and am very happy. I say get the rotors but save of the GTO calipers and pads.
5. The favorite sites to get parts are gmpartsdirect.com and rockauto.com . Take a look at both.
Otherwise, enjoy the sunroof, BOSE and drop a line if you have any questions.
Good luck,
Aras

Jea3cd
11-01-09, 03:50 PM
Thanks R-Caddy

The car has 113K on it. I'm sure its been almost a year since it was driven last. Is there anything else I should look at, before paying for the car? The rear ends and tranny's okay in these things?

I don't have lots of money to put in this thing, but all the time I need to fix it. I just rebuilt the rear end in my Jimmy, rebuilt the top end of the 4.3 with 225K on it. It runs great, but I'm back in College, and driving almost 130 miles a day, at 14 MPG or so. I could take the wifes Montana @ 22 MPG or so, but she really doesn't want to take the Jimmy. So if I can get 25 MPG with this Caddy, thats great.

I don't mind a fixer upper, as I still love to tinker with our cars. I was working at a Caddy dealership when these cars first came out, but never got to work on them, as they were new then. That's when I stopped turning wrenchs, and started working on computers.

Thanks for the info.

R-Caddy
11-01-09, 08:05 PM
Make sure the A/C works fine. As far as transmissions go, these cars have poor ones. Drive and see if the transmission shifts OK and does not go in Neutral when you stop and then hit hard when you give it gas.
Otherwise, I would do a timing belt job and water pump, thermostat. Front end repair isn't very expensive. Rear ends are OK, If the shocks are leaking, you can either get replacement air ride shocks or do away with those and put GTO shocks.
Anybody else have any comments? I suggest you read the sticky topics on top and consumer opinions. Also keep in mind that the later model Cateras were more reliable than the 97-98.
Keep us posted.
Aras

Army_MP_From_MO
11-02-09, 08:19 PM
This car is a HIGH maintanence vehicle. Don't buy it if you're not going to do work on it yourself.

The DOHC takes a little getting used to, hopefully, that's what you're hearing.

I can squeeze 24 MPG out of her.

Call around and see if you can find the weatherstriping, I had my windshield and weatherstiping replaced by an auto glass company.

Matera97
11-03-09, 12:59 AM
I thought the ticking was my lifters as well when I first bought my caddy. Oil change fixed it up though. The last owners of my car neglected it like an unwanted step kid, but slowly the car is becoming worth more than what I paid for it. I've owned mine for about 2 years, and have only sank about 1500 into it. Alternator when I first bought it was the biggest at about 600, I needed to have the Neutral/Park Safety switch replaced which was about 300, and of course a year after owning it, my CPS needed to be replaced, which was relatively cheap for 60 and installed myself. I've just installed the GTO rear shocks and still feeling them out but they seem to be a worth while upgrade if the OEMs fail. There is a lot of info on this forum, and most members are quite knowlegable and willing to help you out. Welcome and enjoy!
Matty

Jea3cd
11-10-09, 10:00 PM
UPdate: Okay, I checked the oil, it was 3 qrts low. I added 3 qrts, and fired it up again. Still clacking away. It started to go away once warmed up, till it got warm, then it got loud again. I also noticed it was smoking from under the hood, but the car has been sitting for about a year. It got 2 dark for me to see, but I'm sure it needs valve cover gaskets, ect. ect.

I did notice that when I took the oil cap off, it was very burnt oil, like the person before never changed the oil. Maybe never? lol...

The outside of the car looks good, other than the from lower bumper. I see a bumper cover on Ebay for $68 bucks, but its off of a 1998, will it fit the 2000? The lister only has it listed for 1997 - 1999?

The A/C isn't working, but it looks like an oil mess around the shrader valve, so I'll look into that tomorrow. But I couldn't get the vents to change from Defrost to the in your face vents, or to the floor. Any common issue for me to look at?

The inside of the car is a pile. Like I said, the last owner NEVER took care of the car. I think they just kept their trash inside it. Shame 2, cause it looks so nice, if I can get it cleaned.

The rear windows don't go up or down by power. I took off the door panel to see it needs new regulators.

I did move the car in the parking lot. The ABS light is on, and the TCS?

I'll get some pics tomorrow.

I see a shop on Ebay that has rebuilt heads for this thing, at $275 each, US dollars. With 113k on the engine, is it worth doing the upper end, or just get a used engine with 48K for $1200?

Thanks for any info you guys can give me, or any feedback at all. I do like the looks of it, and as far as my boss was consernd, he was going to part it out, or junk it.

Cadi Cat
11-11-09, 12:39 AM
That engine is shot... sorry to say. 3 quarts low!? No wonder it's making noise. If you really like the car my advice is to drop in a good used engine. The abs/tc light is gonna cost you at least $230 or so to do it yourself. Take the module in and have it rebuilt. You don't need to worry about the tranny if it seems fine now. I've raced the crap out of mine at 174k and it's still solid. But have the fluid and filter changed. And lastly check the suspension real good. Most likley you'll need to at least rebuild the entire front end if you want to achieve good tire wear.

R-Caddy
11-11-09, 12:58 AM
It seems like your A/C panel is out. Give a used one a shot.
As for the engine, you should be able to get a brand new 3.2 for about $1800. These 3.0 do burn some oil though. New heads are a good deal, but your rings and bearings are still going to be used.
The bumper will have to be a 2000-2001.
Window regulators. If they both don't work, I would look somewhere else besides the regulators.
I guess consider the repairs a monthly payment for the next 2 years or so, hopefully less.
Good luck,
Aras

Jea3cd
11-11-09, 10:17 PM
Update:

I fired up the car again today, and it was much quieter today? So I played with the front bumper, and was able to repair it. It will need a new one, but I got it to the point that unless you knew about it, it looks fine.

My boss let me have a bay with a lift on it, for the next week, so in came the Caddy. I figured I'll try changing the oil and filter, and put some good oil in it, and see what it does. Once on the lift, I noticed the entire underside had oil on it. After looking into it, it looks like the valve covers are leaking, and maybe the oil sending unit, and the oil pan. I never got under one of these cars. Looks sweet. Front end is tight. Looks like a sensor wire in front, on both sides are disconnected. I didn't look 2 far into that yet.

When I dropped the oil, it wasn't as bad as I was thinking it would be. But when I took the filter out, it looked like OEM, and it fell apart with lots of debre in it. I mean lots of crap, most likely oil that has hardend, and loosend up. I decided to drop the oil pan at that point, and it was nasty inside. I cleaned it up pretty good, and noticed that the oil pickup screen was 2/3's clogged with same sludge, and hardend burnt oil.

I didn't fire it back up, since I cleaned it really good, and RTV'd the pan back in place. I'll fill it up with oil tomorrow, and see how it goes. I'm adding Valvoline high mileage oil, with a detergant to help clean up the engine. I'll change it again in a few hundred miles, if this works. But with as bad as it was, I feel this might do it, for the time being.

I'm not worried about the rusted brakes, or the air ride. I got a set of 04 GTO calipers and brackets. I'll get the cross drilled rotors for it next week, once I know the engine department is working. I'm also going to install the GTO shocks and struts, but new. I think that is what I read from R-Caddy, that works? I was also able to restore the headlights, and fog lights with this 3 part lens cleaner that the dealership uses, and they look almost new.

Thanks for the tips, please keep them coming. I did take a few before pics of the car. I'll get them up later tonight.

Jea3cd
11-11-09, 10:30 PM
R-Caddy, if I do end up needing a engine, should I just rebuild this one, since I have the shop, and built engines before like the small block and big block chevy's, or is that 3.2 a direct drop in, and computer works with it?

Jea3cd
11-12-09, 12:12 AM
http://cvec-racing.com/Catera/pictures/100_2911.jpg

http://cvec-racing.com/Catera/pictures/100_2912.jpg

These are the before pics

CateraMV6
11-12-09, 01:18 AM
DO NOT GET CROSS DRILLED ROTORS!!!

Tell you why in a second.

I have a buddy, another engineer who was all about brakes at one point and he went to a bunch of seminars and and tried to lear a ton about them... so then he ended up with power slot rotors on his car...

Couple months later he tells me he went back to stock rotors because he warped them and he did some high quality testing and his car dropped 5ft form the stopping distances 60-0ft...
So now he swears by the stock rotors.

Figures the holes create distortions and reduce rotor mass... and we all know that the brakes convert kinetic energy into heat... so the bigger the heat sink the better thus OEM rotors are the best.

GTO Calipers/C5 Pads, and some fresh OEM rotors is all you will ever need.

Maybe you can get some from Rockauto for the rear too.

Otherwise as for your engine do a complete flush again after 500-600mi dont try to save 20%.

That engine might live after all.

I would do a tranny flush as well, and a rear diff service.

Then see about those lights, maybe get a nice scanner. they sell the AUTEL MS509 for 100$ on amazon and it reads all codes.

Other then that just enjoy the car. It will be fun little project car.

Mine has not seen the dealer since I have owned it. All repairs done at home with very basic tools.


If the engine fails look into a 3.2L with manual trans. Get the European pedal assembly with the master cylinder and do a full manual swap on it.

I hear its a piece of cake.

Jea3cd
11-12-09, 08:07 AM
Thanks CateraMV6. I have a MAC tools scanner already, so code reading isn't an issue. I did notice on your brakes that you kept the stock rotors. Wasn't sure why. Now I know.

For the rear, is 80-90 weight okay, like most other GM rears?

Thanks for the info

Jea3cd
11-12-09, 09:32 PM
Okay, more updates:

I fired up the car today, and it sounded much better. No more oil leaks from the pan either. I was also able to JB Weld the fog light brackets, and cleaned them up, and re-installed them. The head lights cleaned up almost as good as new, with a headlight restore kit the dealership had.

I'll drive the car around the parking lot tomorrow, and start cleaning it up. If that all seems good tomorrow, I'll order the valve cover gaskets. But I was reading on another thread in here, or maybe on Craigslist about the valves and timing belt. If the belt goes, this is a zero tolerance engine? Meaning the valves will bend if the belt goes? Should I just go ahead and do the belt, while I have the valve covers off? It looked like I might need to take the top part of the intake apart for the valve cover gaskets?

I just didn't have the time today to look it up on Alldata.

CateraMV6, I love that front end on your car, will the bumper fit the Caddy grill? Or is that Opel only?

Thanks

CateraMV6
11-13-09, 12:41 AM
My front bumper is OEM Catera bumper, all I did to it, was to install the extra set of fog lights and a lip which I got form europe.

As for the grille its a direct swap from the European cars.

The grille that I have is the one that was going to be on the V8 cars...

Jea3cd
11-13-09, 10:41 PM
More updates:

Today I ran the car up and down the lot. Lots of power, the brakes seem okay. Sun roof works fine. I washed it twice, then clay bar'ed it, and waxed it. Car looks great outside now. Front end is tight. Car leans to the left a little, but I'm planning on the GTO struts, springs, new shocks, so that should take car of that. The brakes are so rusty, they make a nice noise when driving. But I'm planning on new rotors, and GTO calipers with C5 pads.

In side is a little better since I at least got the plastics back in place, and picked up the trash. What I can't believe, is the car smells fine inside. It seems to be a great deal for the $600 I paid for the car, and the $40 I've spent on wax, oil and filter so far. :bouncy::bouncy:

Now the bad part. Looks like a rear main seal is leaking, as well as the valve covers. I haven't tried just tightening the valve covers yet, but I'm planning the worse. The oil filter housing is leaking also.

Now the real bad part. I slapped a dealer plate on, taking for a 2 mile ride. Speedo isn't working, and the car wouldn't shift into 3rd gear. Fog lights not working, and the Bose stopped working, after stopping and shutting the car down. The half way back to the shop, the bose came back on, but still no speedo, or 3rd gear.

Also, when I pressure tested the coolant system, it isn't holding pressure. I don't see it in the oil, but I do have some moisture out the exhaust. The ticking got noisey, but as I was returning, thinking this was getting loud, a Lexus pulled up next to me, 3 or 4 times louder. I can live with it for now, if I can stop the oil leaking, and get the tranny problem worked out. I noticed the car has a ECU for the tranny. Do you guys think the no speedo and no 3rd gear are related?

Jea3cd
11-15-09, 01:29 PM
I wonder what idiot decided not to put a dip stick in the Catera for the transmission? Wow. :thepan: :hmm:

I'll have the car on the lift again tomorrow, to check the trans oil level in the plug on the side of the pan, as per instructions from GM data base.

I did find a transmission for $200 bucks with 58K on it.

Jea3cd
11-17-09, 09:54 PM
more good news.

The trans was low. Tell tail signs of oil leaks, so I added an additive that will help the seals, and added some more tranny oil. What a pain in the you know what. That worked, the car now shifts. I drove it around the block, and it was nice.

Some of the wire harness inside the dash was corroded. I added dieletic grease, and now the climate control works. The bose hasn't cut off again either.

The rear main is leaking still, but I'll wait for this oil to run its course, with the additive, and see if that stops it. I did re-do the pan, and it no longer leaks.

I did a basic wash inside the car, and it came out pretty good. The outside keeps getting better 2. I'll have some pics tomorrow.

I found a set of 04 GTO calipers. I'll have them for the weekend. I'll clean them up real good, and have the body shop paint them. I'll get new rotors for it next week.

The body guy was so impressed with how I turned this car from a junker to something everyone looks at, he told me he'll do some air brush work on it. Thinking of ghost flames coming off the caddy logos.

I do have another question. I noticed this on the other Catera the lot had. What is with the buttons on the dash getting sticky? The more I tried to clean them, the worse they got? What can be done to them, or cover them?

Jea3cd
11-18-09, 06:28 PM
Didn't get to the pics today, kinda tired with school, family, and all my spare time on the Cat.

Had a few questions. How does the bezel around the radio / climate controls come off?

I haven't tried, but does the Bose read CD-R disks, with mp3?

When I go to order struts / shocks, should I just order 04 GTO front struts with springs and mounting hardware?

You know the plastic covers over the lugs? Where can I get those, without going to Caddy?

And I've been looking for center caps for the wheels. I only need 1, but 2 would be great.

Thanks

Matera97
11-18-09, 07:03 PM
I know on the pre 99's there is a little screw behind the ashtray that needs to come out, as well as 2 screws in the sides, in between the hazard/TCS and fuelcap/trunk release buttons. Also you, may need to take all of the buttons out to completely remove the bezel. After that, should just be phillips screws in various areas. The AC/Heater Control and the stereo and ashtray housing are all one piece.

elvin315
11-18-09, 07:09 PM
When I go to order struts / shocks, should I just order 04 GTO front struts with springs and mounting hardware?

DO NOT BUY GTO FRONT STRUTS!!
They won't fit. The only GTO front suspension parts that fit are the springs. Rear shocks and springs fir but you must disable the rear leveling as the GTO shocks aren't air shocks. Read more about suspension upgrades:
http://vplatform.11.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=5

You know the plastic covers over the lugs? Where can I get those, without going to Caddy? And I've been looking for center caps for the wheels. I only need 1, but 2 would be great.

Both pop up on Ebay once in a while. The caps loosen over time and get thrown off so stock up. I tossed them all together and bought chromed bolts also on Ebay.

Jea3cd
11-18-09, 08:33 PM
Thanks for the tips.

I was reading about something you said on the other boards, about milky resido on the oil cap, a oil cooler or something like that?

I have that milky resido, but the oil is clean. I also pulled a code, O2 on 1 of the banks, and noticed a little moisture out the tail.

I wasn't going to pull the plugs yet, but maybe I should?

Most likely head gasket?


I've decided not to sell my GMC, keep it as my daily, and just keep plugging away at the Cat. My brother has a Mustang that he's been working on, kinda like a street legal race car. I've decided my Cat will be my little project car, but at least I can take the family out for ice cream in it, or a Sunday drive. ;-)

corkgs
11-18-09, 09:59 PM
Hi I am new here also and working on a 2000 catera. I was following the ? about the heater controls,I took that apart yesterday I am having problems keeping warm,I pulled the ac comp fuses its still cold outside air.If I turn the knobs to 60 the fans speed up then quickly turn them upto 90 and heat comes on for 30 seconds and stops.Is there an interior temp sensor other than the one between the buttons? Also where does the vacuum line to the heater control valve come from inside the car I want to check the vacuum switch. thanks in advance:confused:

Jea3cd
11-18-09, 11:25 PM
not sure corkgs, I'm sure someone will post on it. I did see alot of post about the HCV (heater control valve).

Does your A/C work?

corkgs
11-19-09, 02:57 PM
ac works fine

elvin315
11-19-09, 05:52 PM
Thanks for the tips.

I was reading about something you said on the other boards, about milky resido on the oil cap, a oil cooler or something like that?

I have that milky resido, but the oil is clean. I also pulled a code, O2 on 1 of the banks, and noticed a little moisture out the tail.

I wasn't going to pull the plugs yet, but maybe I should?

Most likely head gasket?

Run her at highway speeds for 30 min. and check again. It might be crankcase condensation. Check the coolant reservoir for oil. If it's there you have a leaking oil cooler. If the coolant bubbles with the engine running and smells like exhaust, it's a head gasket. Pressure test the cooling system before tearing the engine apart.

Jea3cd
11-20-09, 09:48 PM
Major Setback today...

I got the car registered, and insured today. Drove it for about 20 miles, with the only problem being the Bose cuts in and out once in a while. When it shuts off, it has no power, no clock. Few minutes later, I think when hitting a bump, I see the clock come on, and the radio works again. I saw a post about a cold or broke solder. I'll look up that post again.

However, on my drive home, I stopped at Advance Auto Parts for some light bulbs for the tail. I was talking to a mechanic that just happend to be there, and he told me about Valve Medic, an additive for the oil, to help the lifter / valve noise. I added it to the oil, and an extra qrt of oil. On my way home, I lost oil pressure.

If I stop, let the car sit, start it, I have pressure for a minute or two.

I'm not familiar with this engine, but was wondering if a seal blew in the oil pump, or maybe since this engine wasn't maintained, debre from inside the engine freed up and cloged the oil pickup?

Anyone else have issues like this?

Jea3cd
11-20-09, 10:32 PM
Here are some updated pictures. My Caddy next to my Jimmy.

http://cvec-racing.com/Catera/pictures/after5.jpg

http://cvec-racing.com/Catera/pictures/after1.jpg

http://cvec-racing.com/Catera/pictures/after4.jpg

CateraMV6
11-21-09, 02:18 AM
Holy mother!!! :worship:

That car cleaned up quite well...
You must know your way around waxes and stuff...

I keep mine waxed at least 2 times a year sometimes more...

Seems like it can use a few more interior parts but for now it looks great!

Keep up the good work, and most importantly dont be afraid to drive it.

Jea3cd
11-21-09, 02:30 PM
Thanks CateraMV6.

Nothing like Meguiars products.

I dropped the oil pan today, and found that the additives are working. It freed up all the junk in the engine, and pluged up the oil pickup, causing me to lose oil pressure. When letting the engine sit a few minutes, it ran out the pickup, then I'd have oil pressure again for a few miles.

I cleaned it up, and I'm putting it back together now.

Wish me luck....

Jea3cd
11-24-09, 01:00 AM
Freaking SOB, POS, okay, okay, I'm calming down a little.

I drove the car all day today. Love it. Put the baby seat in, took my little girl for a ride tonight, and noticed I needed to adjust the headlights. After putting her to bed, I went out to adjust them, just to have the car NOT START now. SOB. It's trying 2, and does for a second, then it quits. I losend the larger fuel line, and had it spray all over, seems like good fuel pressure.

Any idea's?

Like I said, it seems to try to start. Leading up to that, car was running great. :hmm:

Jea3cd
11-24-09, 09:48 AM
I was reading on this post: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/67854-98-catera-crankshaft-position-sensor-replacement-4.html

About the CPS, but I noticed on one of the last post about the key. Last night, after the car wouldn't start, I would say it starts, just for a few seconds, then dies.

However, this morning, it won't start at all. I don't have a lot of money to throw at this car right now. With that said, should I try the CPS first, or call the lock smith and have them come make a new key, and program it first? The CPS is $60 local, but I'm sure the key is going to cost 3 times that.

elvin315
11-25-09, 05:32 PM
I was reading on this post: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/67854-98-catera-crankshaft-position-sensor-replacement-4.htmlThe CPS is $60 local, but I'm sure the key is going to cost 3 times that.

There's your answer. As repairs go the CPS is about the easiest and least expensive. Shop around. I think you can find them for less than that. Be sure to route the new CPS cable away from the exhaust. We feel that the problem is the wires get too hot and brittle, eventually cracking.

Jea3cd
11-26-09, 06:45 PM
I ordered the CPS from Rockauto.com shipped to my door for less than Advance Autoparts had it, with our dealership account.

I'm heading out of town for the next few days, so when I get back, I should have a CPS on my door step.

Can't wait to drive the car, it looks so good in the driveway.

:thumbsup:

Jea3cd
11-28-09, 12:57 PM
Has anyone ported, and gasket matched the intake to heads yet?

I'm going to do a timing belt on the car in the next few weeks, and I'm going to install a rebuilt set of heads on it, since its going to be apart anyway. But I wasn't sure if its worth porting the heads, and gasket matching everything? Not sure if its worth it or not?

:hmm:

Jea3cd
12-02-09, 06:01 PM
Well, I got my cps today from Rockauto.com

Then I jacked up the car, found an extra CPS still in place. Right then I knew it wasn't the CPS, since it looked like a new one was in place. I just never checked. So I pulled the two CPS's out, installed the new one anyway, since I own it now. Still no start.

Now I was pissed I didn't really do all my tests, just skipped it, and figured it was a CPS.

I pulled the fuel lines off, since the car did start for a split second. Can't find my fuel pressure gauges. No I'm really getting upset, so I just turn the key on, figured I'd clean the fuel spill. But whats this, no fuel at all.

I called up the shop to have the mechanic pull up the fuel pump relay, so I could just jump it, and force the fuel pump on. Nope, noda, nothing. Now I need to drain the tank, that I just filled with high octain fuel.

But just to make sure, can anyone scan the diagram of the relay box, so I can make sure I'm pulling on the fuel pump relay, not the injectors?

I might have to tow the car to work, so I can have a lift to do this. It looks easy to pull the tank, but not on my back, on a slanted driveway.

:thepan:

Jea3cd
12-10-09, 01:54 AM
Well, I jumped the relay, still no fuel pump, till I hit the tank with a Hammer. Then we had fuel coming out the fuel line, but it didn't look like much pressure. My garden hose looks like it has more pressure. Being fuel injected, I assume the pressure should be around 40 - 55 PSI, shouldn't it?

I hooked up the lines, and the car starts now. I reinstalled the relay, and it still runs, but it is running rough. I assume it is running rough cause of low fuel pressure?

Also, the fuel smells real bad. I know the car sat for atleast a year, with 1/4 - 1/3 of fuel in it. When I got it running, I added $20.00 of 93 Octane to it. I also added an injector cleaner, but didn't think of a fuel additive.

AHazzardToAll
12-10-09, 02:30 AM
I'd completely run the old fuel out of it and try fresh fuel. I have similar issues every time i buy a motorcycle that has been sitting a while. Not a car but same concept, they always run really rough until i get a fresh tank through um. It is even worse if it was gunky to begin with.

Jea3cd
02-22-10, 02:48 PM
Sorry for the lack of posts guys. I decided to go back to college, and have been busy. I also decided to put some money into my GMC, which was a GREAT idea. I went down to the local GMC dealer for some parts, and landed a job as a tech.

So I got the Caddy down at the dealership now, they gave me a bay with a lift for the next month to work on her. New fuel pump installed. Car runs, but I lost brake lights. I'll work on that next week.

Jea3cd
02-27-10, 06:10 PM
Things have changed working at a Dealership, since I last turned wrenches. Now I have access to GM database, and was able to look up my Catera, to see the GM history on it. Might not have been a good idea. This car has had lots of things replaced before 50K.

Anyway, brake lights are working again, new Delco fuel pump in. Car runs a little rough at start up since the new pump. I went to pull the plugs, and 3 of the plugs are submerged in oil. Valve covers are leaking pretty good. I was able to tighten them up a bit, but I'm sure I'll be replacing them. I'm also going to pull the trans out, and replace the rear main seal on it. While the trans is out, our transmission tech will go threw it, replace the seals, and service it, before installing it again.

Window regulators are fixed in the rear, so I have working power windows again.

So I'm slowly working my way threw the car. I really don't have much money into the car yet, just a lot of labor.

Nice thing is, the Caddy dealership is only a block away. They feel for me, so they've been lending me all the GM tools needed to do any work on the car, since I'm at GMC / Buick / Pontiac.

Also wanted to note, I drove the car to the dealership. I had the wife crank her over, while I banged on the tank to get the pump working. This was the longest drive in the car to date. About 30 miles. Car drove real nice. Only issues was the brake lights going out on the way there, and it running a little rough at the lights.

New windshield and gaskets go in next week, as well as some new plugs.

I just keep telling the wife, its an investment. :bigroll: :canttalk:

I'll keep you all posted.

Jea3cd
02-27-10, 06:28 PM
One other issue I have, maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

My speedo isn't working, and I have a traction light on. I thought I read somewhere about the wheel speed sensors?

Any info would be helpful. Thanks

Army_MP_From_MO
02-28-10, 08:17 AM
Speedo and TC light = ABS module

Matera97
03-02-10, 10:01 PM
Well I guess you've got an in, working at GM and all. Its good to see that another Cat will be up and running (probably better than most). Good job man

Jea3cd
03-06-10, 11:16 PM
Well, I'm not sure, but it looks like the additives I put in for the oil leaks, might be working. I washed the under side of the car down with some brake cleaner. Wiped it down, and changed the oil. I put in 3 qrts of Marvel Mystery oil, along with 2 qrts of 5w30 and ran it on the lift for 20 minutes. No leaking. I was hoping to hear the lifter noise come down a bit, but nothing yet. I'll run it another 30 minutes on the lift on Monday, then change the oil to a 10w40 and see if that helps.

If that doesn't help the lifter noise, I have a few options.

1. Pull the top end of the engine apart, replace the bad lifters, do head gaskets, and replace the timing belt and pullies while down there? You can see that this would be an expensive job here.

2. My Dad's new company is one of the last companies still in the running in the Progressive 100 MPG cars contest. His company is using the Caddy CTS, but not the Caddy engine. So they just got a few CTS's that they will pull the engines from. If the cars have the 3.2L, I can have one, just pay the shipping from MD to FL. He thinks the one they are pulling the engine out of, has 55K on it. But he wasn't sure if its a 3.2 or the 3.6. I'll find out in another week or so.

If I get the 3.2, I'll freshen it up on the engine stand, and when ready, drop it in. It will still be expensive, since I'll freshen it up, like change the gaskets, do some port and polish, and drop it in the car.

I'm looking for some parts here in the states, like ground effects. MV6, I really like the looks of your Cat. Anywhere to get that front bumper here in the US?

Jea3cd
03-09-10, 07:06 PM
Well, I've been letting the Cat sit on the lift, with a 50 - 50 mix of 5w30 and marvel mystery oil for about 20 minutes at a time, 3 times a day for the last few days.

A few of the old timer techs came over to take a listen, and they think I might be an injector, not a lifter.

The car is quiet at first start, or when cold. That's when we have over 60 psi oil pressure. But once the car warms up, it sounds like a lifter, and oil pressure is at 22.9 psi, which is within specs to the 3.0L

Now the good news. The rear main is no longer leaking. The valve covers have seemed to stop as well. The only oil leak I see now is the filter housing, at the block. New gaskets on the way for that now.

TitanCTS
03-11-10, 08:35 PM
Don't worry about the lifter tick unless it's really loud. My car has that same issue when it's fully warmed up. I would have replaced all my lifters but since they go for $42 a PIECE and there's 24 of em, i'm all set. :)

Jea3cd
03-20-10, 10:59 AM
I hear ya TitanCTS.

Well, we drove the car home yesterday. Runs great, other than the lifter noise. I've pulled the ABS module out, and I'm shipping that off to be rebuilt. We've stopped all the big oil leaks now. I have a set of front GTO calipers and brackets. I'll be painting them in the next week or so.

Anyone know a good slotted rotor to put on the front?

Had a new windshield installed yesterday also.

Tried to repair my fog lights. Can't seem to find out why they aren't working atm. The relay is working, my indicator on the dash says they're on, but no power to the bulbs. I need to look closer under the front end. If you remember at the beggining of this tread, I got the car with the front end torn off. I'll look closer at the wires up in the nose.

I'm also looking for a spoiler for the car, nothing big, just something to break up the rear end.

Jea3cd
03-23-10, 09:30 AM
I got my GTO Calipers and brackets on the way. Paid $36 for them. I also got a spoiler for the car.

Now the rotors. The ABS module will go out today, for rebuild. Windows might get tinted today also, not sure though.

retho78
03-23-10, 11:05 AM
Where did you get the GTO calipers for that cheap?

Jea3cd
03-23-10, 10:04 PM
Ebay

Well, no tint today, but got a set of new V Rated tires. I forget the name, but it was all my buddies shop had in stock. 225 / 55 / 16

They look good. I only replaced 2 tires, the other 2 look almost new. Those are the Kumos HP4. They are in the rear. Car feels good, and lots of power. Transmission is acting up, but I'll service it tomorrow at work. We have a nice little machine that will allow me to really top off this trans.

I have decided to get a 3.2L for it. I'm waiting for my dad's company in MD, with a 03 CTS that they're pulling the engine out of, to take it off his hands. It has 58K on it. The car is wrecked, but they only need the shell of the car. I'll get that engine on a stand, and freshen it up, paint it, and install it.

My engine still has this lifter noise. When I'm in the car, I can't hear it. I only hear it, if my windows are down, and I pull up to something, like another car at a red light. Then I hear it really loud.

I just turn up the radio for now. :histeric:



I cleaned up the inside of the car again. I'll get some pictures up soon.

I got a set of rotors, slotted and drilled. They go on when the Calipers are ready. My friends body shop will paint the calipers. They might go to my old CNC's to get something engraved on them before going in.

Jea3cd
03-24-10, 06:44 PM
GTO Calipers showed up today. Paid $31.00 plus shipping for them on Ebay.

Didn't get to the Trans today. Wanted to get home, and finish up inside the car. I had some bad black marks on the drivers door panel, and they wouldn't come out. I tried the Mr. Clean magic eraser. It worked. But it also took the clear off, which was messed up anyways.

I do have another question, with my Bose.

Once in a while, it will cut out. I think its mostly when playing a CD. I also have an issue with setting the Base. Its always turned way up. I lower it, and it sounds good, then just seconds later, its turned back up. Is there a set button, or am I having a radio issue?

Jea3cd
03-26-10, 11:55 PM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1364&pictureid=6545

Jea3cd
03-26-10, 11:56 PM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1364&pictureid=6546


Before pictures of the brakes:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1364&pictureid=6547

Jea3cd
04-01-10, 12:02 AM
Got my ABS module back, from getting it rebuilt. Installed it today, and everything is seems to be working. The ABS light, and traction light are off, and my speedo is working again. Thanks for the tips guys.

Still waiting on my rotors.

Jea3cd
04-02-10, 09:16 PM
The car no longer just hangs at the rev limiter, it shifts on time, and quick, since the ABS mod is working. Problem is, I love the exhaust note when it's in the upper RPM range. That isn't helping the injector, or lifter noise. I think one of the oil leaks is back, most likely valve covers. I'm not worried about it, since a 3.2 is going in. I found a local chassis dyno, and I'm going to go get a base line in the next week or so. I've picked up a shimmy up in the front, with the new tires. I'll take care of that first, then head over to the dyno.

Jea3cd
04-12-10, 05:41 PM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1364&pictureid=6661

Before cleaning and paint

Jea3cd
04-12-10, 05:43 PM
Cleaned, Painted, and new Rotors. I got new bleeders and hardware for the Calipers today. I'll get new brake lines tomorrow.


http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1364&pictureid=6662

retho78
04-12-10, 07:29 PM
Where did you buy the rotors from? Are you installing corvette pads or the GTO ones?

Where are you getting the brake lines from?

I'm thinking of getting rotors from this website.

http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors.php?vtype=1&vmake=16113&vmodel=16277&vyear=16283&vdetail=16284&cPath=1_16113_16277_16283_16284_16286&dv=020410&ad=direct

or

http://www.brakeperformance.com/

Thanks.

retho78
04-13-10, 09:51 AM
Hi,

Are you using the GTO pads or the corvette ones? Which year corvette pads fits in the GTO calipers?


Thanks.

Matera97
04-13-10, 04:12 PM
The 2004 C5 pads work best from what I've heard.

retho78
04-13-10, 04:17 PM
Thanks. I have the caliper sets in hand and haven't got a chance to mess with it yet, will give a try in couple of weeks.

Matera97
04-13-10, 04:18 PM
How much you pay for the calipers?

retho78
04-13-10, 05:21 PM
I paid $70 for the whole set front and rear with hoses. Got it from ebay.

Matera97
04-13-10, 06:01 PM
You know the rear ones will not fit right? Must have been a whole package deal.

retho78
04-13-10, 06:30 PM
Yeah I know. It was listed as a whole set.

Jea3cd
04-14-10, 10:09 PM
I'll be using the 04 corvette pads in front.

Question to you guys. How can I make the brake pad sensor light go out on the dash, without taking the dash out and pull the bulb? Can I jump the sensor wires in the front?


Fog lights are working now. But I picked up a vibration in the front end. Took the car back, where I got the tires, and they now tell me one of my wheels was bent. Okay, but why put it on the drivers side front? So I can feel it? Sheesh.

Matera97
04-14-10, 10:33 PM
My light doesn't come on, my sensor is kinda twisted around itself, it was done before I got the car, I'm not sure if the light is out. I'm gonna have to check that.

retho78
04-15-10, 01:13 AM
The sensor on my catera is the same twisted and moved away. I did this when I had to replace the rotors couple years ago. The sensor would not come so had to break the ends and after that I just twisted it and kept in there. No lights on the dash since then.

Jea3cd
04-20-10, 01:40 PM
Thanks for the tips on the brake sensors guys.

I have another issue, that I need to look into. I thought this was just my Bose radio having the issue, but it appears to be more than that. At least once a day, my Bose loses power. No clock, no radio. I never noticed till yesterday, that I also lose power to all my buttons on the dash as well. I couldn't get my trunk or fuel door to open, while I noticed the Bose had no power either. My relay box under the dash looks new. I took it apart, and all the solders look good, shinny and new looking.

I haven't noticed if I hit a bump if I regain power. All the fuses look good. Any idea's?

Thanks

retho78
04-20-10, 02:13 PM
It could be the K-134 relay. It is located under the driver side steering wheel area, way up close to the fender, a gray looking box (approximate size of a bar soap). It may be a bad solder on the board and I have read somewhere that it could be an easy fix. You may have to re-solder all the pioints on the board and may work fine. Give it a try.

Thanks.

retho78
04-20-10, 02:14 PM
So did you change the brakes yet, any pictures?

waco-brian
04-20-10, 02:28 PM
yes you can use a jumper for the brake sensor did it to one of mine

Matera97
04-20-10, 04:01 PM
Another reason K-134 relay cuts off power is an over draw of power from the AUX Water Pump. Basically it shuts down non-essential functions to keep supplying the pump with power.

hgqguy
04-24-10, 03:54 PM
hey guys.. I just took the time to read the whole post from start to finish.. i think I would have got rid of that black catera a long time ago!

anyway.. my catera has issues also, but always gets me where im going.

so Ive done a ton of things, and here is what I am wondering today. I noticed retho was having a rough idol at stop lights. My catera will SOMETIMES idol ruff at stops. I recently replaced one of the air intake hoses that was torn, and would cause stalling. I have only done about 300 miles since. At first it seemed ok.. then after the car is warmed up well I will pull up to a light, and the engine drops.. like it is going to stal, then recovers, and does it once more... sometimes it will idol at 600,800 and is fine, but then sometimes its at 400 and creates a pretty good vibration in the car... I has been sugested by a gm MECH at a chevy dealer that perhaps flasing the computer or TB... ??
I noticed yesterday.. for the first time ever that when I fueled and got back in the car.. I had to crank and crank.. befor it started.. and that has never happened before.
I did a fuel addative for a sticky lifter about 3 months ago. I did plugs around the same time. I replaced fuel filter a week or 2 ago.

Let me know about the shaking and intermitten low idle, thanks.

retho78
04-24-10, 04:44 PM
It could be the air flow sensor.

Jea3cd
06-26-10, 10:46 PM
I finally installed my front brake upgrades. I was trying to wait till I had the $$ for the braided front hoses, but I was getting a brake pulsation from the front, so I really needed to replace or cut my rotors. Since I had the new slotted ones, I just swapped the calipers and rotors. New bleeders and hardware. I used Delco GTO pads.

Do I notice a difference? Yup. The peddle takes less effort for a panic stop. The car just feels great.

Now I need to look into the trans. It's acting up a bit. I'll post more later, and I'll get pics up soon.

Jea3cd
10-27-10, 02:32 AM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66792

Been loving the car. Just installed my Phoneix Gold amp and my JL 10" dual voice coil sub. Sounds pretty good. I have valve cover and intake gaskets on the way, and I'm ordering a timing belt next week. The new brakes have been holding up real nice so far. I started working on some of the interior. The "leather" on the drivers door, started to sag, and fall off. The foam behind the leather is drying out, and falling apart. The Florida sun is just killing the car now. I pulled the leather off, as much as I could, and sprayed the foam with Loctite HD Adhesive. Used a flat blade screw driver, and was able to apply the leather back into place.

I'm going to pull the intake off, and install a fresh set of injectors and gaskets, new valve cover gaskets, but check the lifters while apart.

Gotta get the Caddy done, the Mustang needs to come back into the garage soon.

USEDCAT
10-27-10, 01:10 PM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66792

Been loving the car. Just installed my Phoneix Gold amp and my JL 10" dual voice coil sub. Sounds pretty good. I have valve cover and intake gaskets on the way, and I'm ordering a timing belt next week. The new brakes have been holding up real nice so far. I started working on some of the interior. The "leather" on the drivers door, started to sag, and fall off. The foam behind the leather is drying out, and falling apart. The Florida sun is just killing the car now. I pulled the leather off, as much as I could, and sprayed the foam with Loctite HD Adhesive. Used a flat blade screw driver, and was able to apply the leather back into place.

I'm going to pull the intake off, and install a fresh set of injectors and gaskets, new valve cover gaskets, but check the lifters while apart.

Gotta get the Caddy done, the Mustang needs to come back into the garage soon.
Great picture. I would love to live there man! Beautiful place it appears.

Cheers.

Jea3cd
10-27-10, 01:57 PM
Thanks, it isn't bad. Not great either. I miss the North East, but don't miss the snow storms. ;-)

I keep forgetting, I'm sitting on Eibach lowering springs, just waiting to get front KYB struts. But that can wait till the engine is all set. I'll feel better, knowing the timing belt isn't going to come apart, and that the noise I hear is either injectors, or the lifters. After listening to the video of the car, it sounds like injectors.

Jea3cd
11-14-10, 12:18 AM
Well, I had the top end apart to change the valve cover gaskets. I cleaned everything up pretty good, but didn't notice any space between the cams and lifters, on both heads. The injectors didn't have any sign of wear either. So I'm kinda at a loss for the noise right now.

The car runs great, and its nice coming to a red light, and not have it smoking from oil on the headers.

The only thing, now since putting it back together, when it is cold, or that first start in the morning, the car bucks / hesitates for about a 1/4 mile. If I let the car sit for about 2 minutes, warming up, it's fine. All vacuum hoses are on correctly. Idles fine. I'll check with a scanner for any codes, but no lights on.

Can't wait to do the struts / springs next, but that's after I get a few things done to the Mustang.

USEDCAT
11-14-10, 12:49 AM
Well, I had the top end apart to change the valve cover gaskets. I cleaned everything up pretty good, but didn't notice any space between the cams and lifters, on both heads. The injectors didn't have any sign of wear either. So I'm kinda at a loss for the noise right now.

The car runs great, and its nice coming to a red light, and not have it smoking from oil on the headers.

The only thing, now since putting it back together, when it is cold, or that first start in the morning, the car bucks / hesitates for about a 1/4 mile. If I let the car sit for about 2 minutes, warming up, it's fine. All vacuum hoses are on correctly. Idles fine. I'll check with a scanner for any codes, but no lights on.

Can't wait to do the struts / springs next, but that's after I get a few things done to the Mustang.
Jea3cd perhaps couple of things of note,



When the car is cold at start the breather system determines most of the characteristics. Cleaning up the breather system is one of the cheapest and perhaps very important detail. You do need few O rings before you start this job.
When the car is cold and you drive away right away from the start, the transmission shifting is limited by the computer modules. This is to allow the car transmission to fully warm up and then there is good shifting. The effect can be pronounced or minimal I suppose based on how cold the temperature was at cold start.
The secondary air injection is also at play during early parts of the engine start and drive away. It can also give little bit of awkward feeling depending upon how well the SAI motor runs.

Cheers in case it helps.

mdksupra
01-16-11, 02:43 AM
Well, I had the top end apart to change the valve cover gaskets. I cleaned everything up pretty good, but didn't notice any space between the cams and lifters, on both heads. The injectors didn't have any sign of wear either. So I'm kinda at a loss for the noise right now.

The car runs great, and its nice coming to a red light, and not have it smoking from oil on the headers.

The only thing, now since putting it back together, when it is cold, or that first start in the morning, the car bucks / hesitates for about a 1/4 mile. If I let the car sit for about 2 minutes, warming up, it's fine. All vacuum hoses are on correctly. Idles fine. I'll check with a scanner for any codes, but no lights on.

Can't wait to do the struts / springs next, but that's after I get a few things done to the Mustang.

Any updates?

Jea3cd
01-18-11, 11:36 PM
Sorry, I started another thread. I didn't bother with the cold start issue. I figured I'd get to that later down the road. I did find that the vacume line under the intake by the throttle body had come off. That didn't help.

But the sad news now. I needed some money to rebuild the engine in the Mustang. I put up my Catera for sale, didn't think it would sell with the few issues it still had. It sat out at the end of my street with a for sale sign on it, for no more than 20 minutes before it sold, cash deal. Couldn't believe it. I got $3500, but only had around $2000 into it, with the purchase of the car.

It's only been gone for a few weeks, and I miss it. I'll be looking for another one now, after the Mustang is done. And no, the Mustang isn't even on the road yet. Engine is done, sitting on the stand behind me right now. New headers, and exhaust sitting in the box next to me. Cobra intake just got painted, and is sitting next to the garage door. Tomorrow night, it all goes together. I hope it was worth the Caddy.

Stwoodworth
01-04-13, 12:58 PM
It seems like I just read "Lord of the Rings" and the Trollocs won.

And so my journey begins...

kaustein
01-04-13, 06:31 PM
Sorry, I started another thread. I didn't bother with the cold start issue. I figured I'd get to that later down the road. I did find that the vacume line under the intake by the throttle body had come off. That didn't help.

But the sad news now. I needed some money to rebuild the engine in the Mustang. I put up my Catera for sale, didn't think it would sell with the few issues it still had. It sat out at the end of my street with a for sale sign on it, for no more than 20 minutes before it sold, cash deal. Couldn't believe it. I got $3500, but only had around $2000 into it, with the purchase of the car.

It's only been gone for a few weeks, and I miss it. I'll be looking for another one now, after the Mustang is done. And no, the Mustang isn't even on the road yet. Engine is done, sitting on the stand behind me right now. New headers, and exhaust sitting in the box next to me. Cobra intake just got painted, and is sitting next to the garage door. Tomorrow night, it all goes together. I hope it was worth the Caddy.

You are one lucky person!