View Full Version : Oil change...


Swedish DeVille Dude
08-29-09, 04:08 AM
Hello guys,
I drive a 1968 DeVille over here in Sweden during the summer months. The car rolls like 800-1000 miles between April and September and then I store it in a barn during the winter months.
I thought I would change the engine oil within the next few weeks as it was almost two years (though not too many miles) since I did this.
A few days ago when having the engine running and the hood open I could hear a slight ticking from the right hand side valves.
I know you guys have mentioned Marvel Mystery Oil but I can't seem to find that over here in Sweden (importing it would be too expensive, I'm afraid).
Would you suggest that I find an equal substance (if there are any) and pour it in with the new oil or would an internal engine flush be a good idea you think ?
Kind regards from the other side of the pond !

osu411yamaha
08-29-09, 05:08 AM
Lucas Oil Stabilizer

drmenard
08-30-09, 10:30 PM
Todays "over the road" motor oils do not have the correct additives for a flat tappet cam... the additives were removed and replaced with less effective ones because of emissions and roller cams...anyone with a flat tappet cam should use racing oil, like valvoline VR-1, or get the special additive in a can.. sold by people that know...

Swedish DeVille Dude
08-31-09, 03:46 AM
Thanx for the advice, guys.
So would you suggest using a mineral oil together with the proper additive or using a synthetic oil ?
Cheers from Sweden !

Swedish DeVille Dude
09-01-09, 03:52 AM
...I have now bought a couple of liters of mineral 20w-50 which most owners of classic Caddys over here in Sweden seem to prefer. That together with a new filter will probably do my engine good.

steelybill
09-01-09, 10:09 PM
The "W" in the oil is a detergent designator. If you check the containers for "CI-4" it will be the oil with the additives you need. The current "regular" oils have only 800 PPM of ZDDP, and diesel oil is now reduced to 1100 PPM (it was 1300PPM before) Royal Purple motor oil has the 1300 PPM, according to an email I received from them last week, with the designator API CI-4/SL service classification on the containers.

osu411yamaha
09-01-09, 10:14 PM
Isn't too much detergent actually bad for an older engine? I have heard that gunk builds up with time around the seals in your engine and these seals wear with time. The gunk actually keeps the oil from leaking out of the seals. If you use an oil with too high concentration of a detergent it will clean the gunk and cause leaks.....May just be a redneck theory, but there does seem to be some logic in it. At least to a guy like me whose whole bloodline consists of KY, WV, and TN:yup:

Ranger
09-01-09, 10:20 PM
Hello guys,
I drive a 1968 DeVille over here in Sweden during the summer months. The car rolls like 800-1000 miles between April and September and then I store it in a barn during the winter months.
I thought I would change the engine oil within the next few weeks as it was almost two years (though not too many miles) since I did this.
A few days ago when having the engine running and the hood open I could hear a slight ticking from the right hand side valves.
I know you guys have mentioned Marvel Mystery Oil but I can't seem to find that over here in Sweden (importing it would be too expensive, I'm afraid).
Would you suggest that I find an equal substance (if there are any) and pour it in with the new oil or would an internal engine flush be a good idea you think ?
Kind regards from the other side of the pond !
Short your oil fill by one quart and replace it with a qt. of trans fluid.