: Cigarette lighter woes



smelly$cat
08-24-09, 02:04 PM
03 ESV

So, my cigarette lighter (right below the disk changer) doesn't work.

My aux power works fine in the center console.

I've checked the Cig Ltr fuse under the hood (driver side) and it is fine (not blown).

Any other thoughts as to the cause of this? Are there any other fuses I should check? Any other known issues for this problem?

Oddly enough, my 04 Suburban has the same problem. Same healthy looking fuse.

I'm hoping there is some known GM issue/quirk here that I can learn about. Probably won't be my luck though....

I haven't pulled every single fuse in my fuse box. I might do that next to see if the Cig Ltr fuse is dependent on another fuse that might be blown.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys

:thepan:

zerocarpileup
08-24-09, 05:55 PM
Sounds weird. Dont know whats going on but i know another known problem is that your OBD II port will not work if the cigarette lighter fuse is blown. You might want to check if the port is responding. If it is working, then you probably just have to replace the bad lighter unit.

ewill3rd
08-24-09, 09:10 PM
The fuse should be in what I would consider the lower right area of the fuse block, which is outboard and closest to the driver.
It is usually a 15A fuse labeled "Cigar".

There are a couple of fuses in there so be sure to check them all.
Use a test light if you have one. If the fuse is really not blown then you'll have to pull the console trim and check the connection on the back of the socket.

smelly$cat
08-25-09, 03:46 PM
I've had a check engine code pulled one time already, while the lighter wasn't working, so, I think we can rule that out. The OBD II port seems to be working. So, I guess that means the fuse is good. I'm still going to pull all the fuses one by one to check them all out.

I'm going to pull the trim and test to see if the wire going into the cig lighter is getting juice or not.... If yes, then, I would agree, just need a new lighter unit.

Hopefully I'll get some time tonight to tinker with it.

Thanks for the response!

--


Sounds weird. Dont know whats going on but i know another known problem is that your OBD II port will not work if the cigarette lighter fuse is blown. You might want to check if the port is responding. If it is working, then you probably just have to replace the bad lighter unit.

smelly$cat
08-25-09, 03:48 PM
ewill3rd, I was hoping you would respond. Are you a dealer tech as your sig says? Cool!

Yeah, I found that fuse in the fuse block in the engine compartment and it looked good. And, like I said in the other response I just posted, my OBDII port seems to be working fine. Unless there is another fuse I should look for/check, I think I'm just going to pull the trim and test the wires going into the cig lighter socket to see if it's getting power. I have a little test light/probe I can use.

I'll report back once I check this out.

Thanks!

----



The fuse should be in what I would consider the lower right area of the fuse block, which is outboard and closest to the driver.
It is usually a 15A fuse labeled "Cigar".

There are a couple of fuses in there so be sure to check them all.
Use a test light if you have one. If the fuse is really not blown then you'll have to pull the console trim and check the connection on the back of the socket.

ewill3rd
08-25-09, 06:30 PM
If pin 16 on the DLC is hot then the fuse is good.
You'll have to pull the cupholder and see if the connection is secure (sometimes guys leave them off if they have been in there) and make sure you have power and ground to the socket.

Yes I work at Lindsay Cadillac just like my profile says.
I am GM World Class Certified since I think 2006 and I love to come here and help when I can.

If you ever want me to read a topic just put "ewill" somewhere in a post.
I use the search feature a couple times a day to see if anyone is saying my name to make sure I don't miss out where I might be needed. ;)

smelly$cat
08-25-09, 06:34 PM
What a great resource this board has with you here!

Just a couple questions. What does DLC stand for?

And, as far as the cup hold removal goes, is that simple? Just pull up on it or something?

I was thinking I was going to need to pull the main dash bezel, then work my way down to the center console.

Thanks again ewill3rd! :)

---


If pin 16 on the DLC is hot then the fuse is good.
You'll have to pull the cupholder and see if the connection is secure (sometimes guys leave them off if they have been in there) and make sure you have power and ground to the socket.

Yes I work at Lindsay Cadillac just like my profile says.
I am GM World Class Certified since I think 2006 and I love to come here and help when I can.

If you ever want me to read a topic just put "ewill" somewhere in a post.
I use the search feature a couple times a day to see if anyone is saying my name to make sure I don't miss out where I might be needed. ;)

ewill3rd
08-25-09, 06:48 PM
On an '03 you might have to remove the IPC bezel then pull the clock/cd changer panel off, then just lift up on the cupholder and you can sneak it out with the center compartment open.

Taking the IPC bezel off is easy, if you haven't done it before you can do a search or I'll tell you real quickly how to do it. All that stuff just pops off with spring clips.

DLC is "Data Link Connector" which is an OBD required term. GM used to call it an ALDL or Assembly Line Data Link.
It is the 16 pin connector under the dash by the park brake lever.

I am more than happy to be of service.
:D
Thanks for the kind words.

smelly$cat
08-25-09, 06:51 PM
OK, cool. I just pulled the IPC a couple days ago on my 04 suburban, so, I feel comfortable doing it on the ESV now. I'll dig into this asap and report back.

Thanks!

--




On an '03 you might have to remove the IPC bezel then pull the clock/cd changer panel off, then just lift up on the cupholder and you can sneak it out with the center compartment open.

Taking the IPC bezel off is easy, if you haven't done it before you can do a search or I'll tell you real quickly how to do it. All that stuff just pops off with spring clips.

DLC is "Data Link Connector" which is an OBD required term. GM used to call it an ALDL or Assembly Line Data Link.
It is the 16 pin connector under the dash by the park brake lever.

I am more than happy to be of service.
:D
Thanks for the kind words.

ewill3rd
08-25-09, 09:41 PM
Not a problem at all.
Let me know if you need more help.

smelly$cat
08-26-09, 01:05 AM
Well, my wife ran off with the ESV tonight, so, I couldn't work on it. I did however spend some more quality time with my 04 suburban. All of it's outlets are not working. There is a cig lighter and a aux port on the same panel on the dash. There is also another on the rear of the center console for the rear seat passengers to use. All 3 don't work.

I pulled every single fuse from both fuse panels and they all looked good.

I used a test probe on the fuses as well (that little metal spec on both sides of the fuse you can touch to check current). Most lit up. Some didn't, but would when you activated that option, like the turn signals for example.

I pulled the dash bezel and removed the panel with the cig lighter and the aux port so I could see the wires going into them. Using the same ground with my probe that was working to test the fuses, I touched the orange wire where it connects to the back of the cig lighter. No light. I tried the black wire. No light (expected). Did the same for the Aux port. No light on either wire.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but, this tells me that power is hitting the fuse box on the "cig ltr" circuit. But, somewhere between the fuse box and my outlets, power is getting lost. ?

I noticed there is a dash panel you can pop off from the passenger side of the dash. It appears to be a junction point if you will. I started to see if I could use my probe to test for power there, but, for some reason I couldn't get my probe to light up at all. I'm guessing I just didn't have a good ground, even though I was using the main bolts that held the door to the hinge or the body. At this point it was very dark outside and I noticed the battery on the car was not dead enough to need a jump. I'll do that tomorrow.... :rant2: I doubt that was why my probe wouldn't light up since there was still enough battery to light up the dash lights and lock/unlock the doors. Just not enough to kick that starter over. Only gave a click click click. I think that battery is on it's way out anyway. I've killed it a couple times now. So, I don't think it holds the charge it once did. I didn't have the headlights on all that much, but they were turning on automatically, so, I guess they were draining it. I'm rambling....

So, at this point, during my next session, I plan to try to test for power at that junction box some more on the passenger side of the dash. The wires that were coming off the cig liter and the aux port were Orange. I could see orange wires coming into and out of that junction box. Going to see if I can deduce something there.... hopefully.

Open to any other thoughts on this. A nice wiring diagram of my 04 suburban would be helpful. But, not sure where I can get one of those.... ewill3rd, you wouldn't have access to something like that would you? Wondering how close it would be to a ESV wiring harness....

Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. :thumbsup:

ewill3rd
08-26-09, 06:33 AM
The ESV and the sub will have nearly identical wiring for the most part.
They are both GMT800 series vehicles.
I have access to all the factory manuals but my "pdf printer" quit working so it is hard to make useable images to send you. I might be able to post something helpful but I'd have to do some tricky stuff...

In theory, if your tests are good then it does sound like an open somewhere but I'd have to look at the schematics to tell you where to start.
Door jamb bolts don't work that well anymore for good grounds. Sometimes it is hard to find a good ground for testing on a lot of our newer cars.

Bump this thread periodically and I'll see what I can find out for you.

Yeah it sounds like your battery is just weak, you might shop for a good one. Doesn't sound like you did much of anything wrong it just isn't holding a charge well.

smelly$cat
08-26-09, 10:23 AM
ewill3rd,

I think what would be most helpful to me at this point is to know if that orange wire that goes into the "faulty" outlets in question runs to that junction box on the passenger side of the dash or not. If I had confidence that the orange wire I am seeing at that junction box is the same one that runs back to those outlets in question, I could safely divide my problem in half and start digging either towards to fuse box, or towards the outlets. I'm guessing the later is going to be the problem.

Thanks for all the info thus far!

---


The ESV and the sub will have nearly identical wiring for the most part.
They are both GMT800 series vehicles.
I have access to all the factory manuals but my "pdf printer" quit working so it is hard to make useable images to send you. I might be able to post something helpful but I'd have to do some tricky stuff...

In theory, if your tests are good then it does sound like an open somewhere but I'd have to look at the schematics to tell you where to start.
Door jamb bolts don't work that well anymore for good grounds. Sometimes it is hard to find a good ground for testing on a lot of our newer cars.

Bump this thread periodically and I'll see what I can find out for you.

Yeah it sounds like your battery is just weak, you might shop for a good one. Doesn't sound like you did much of anything wrong it just isn't holding a charge well.

oldworld
08-26-09, 08:01 PM
I have a cig lighter issue slightly different.
The actual port works fine. use my radar detector and the power supply for my cell phone all the time. Never an issue. Soemhow, we lost the original lighter, so I took one out of my sons jeep, pushed it in and DEAD. Fuse blown. Change the fuse. Try again. Fuse blown again.
Changed fuse again, and the port works fine with the radar detector and the phone wire.
ANY IDEAS AS TO WHY IT BLOWS FUSE with lighter and NOT the radar detector or the phone wire?
Would simply buying a new cig lighter do the trick? Do they actually go bad???
THANKS as always

ewill3rd
08-26-09, 10:25 PM
smelly, I'll have to check the schematics but I don't think it does.
We have had some burn up lately (long story) and I think that harness goes to the left and through the bulkhead to the fuse block but I'll try to dig up some schematics tomorrow and check to see if there is another test point we can find.

Old, The shape of the lighter is important, some others are longer and when you slide it into the socket it will actually touch the bottom part and instantly blow the fuse.
You need to get the "correct" lighter element or it will keep doing that.
It is hard to tell unless you hold the one that blows the fuse next to one that doesn't.
They are not all the same.

oldworld
08-27-09, 08:02 AM
Are all cadillac lighters the same??
Can I just take one out of my sons seville and try it?
I went to AZ and the package says GM, but it did not work.
THANKS

ewill3rd
08-27-09, 08:41 AM
You could try but no, they are not all the same.
Parts stores do that all the time, they think they are all the same because it is from GM but they aren't.
;)
Helpful isn't it?

smelly$cat
08-27-09, 10:32 AM
ewill3rd,

Well, I logged a couple more hours on this last night on my Suburban (in the dark...)

Good news is, I got my cig lighter and aux ports working!

Bad news is, I cheated....

While digging around in the dash, I found a plug just hanging there doing nothing. Coincidentally, it was the same color combo of wires as the wires coming off the cig lighter and aux ports. Not sure what this plug is suppose to be used for. For all I know, it should be plugged in somewhere behind the dash to make the ports work, but, for the life of me, I couldn't see where it would plug in. I would have had to take out the entire center console to get a better view and I was running out of patience.

I tested to see if the plug was getting power and it tested positive. :)

So, I just spliced the two sets of wires together and everything is now working!

When I have some time, I'll start pulling fuses to find out what circuit I spliced this into.

Now, onto the ESV to figure that one out..... For the ESV, I'm going to guess it's just a bad lighter socket since that rig has 113k on it and the aux port in the center console still works. Just a guess before I dig in though.

I'll keep this string posted with my progress....

Thanks again!

----



smelly, I'll have to check the schematics but I don't think it does.
We have had some burn up lately (long story) and I think that harness goes to the left and through the bulkhead to the fuse block but I'll try to dig up some schematics tomorrow and check to see if there is another test point we can find.

Old, The shape of the lighter is important, some others are longer and when you slide it into the socket it will actually touch the bottom part and instantly blow the fuse.
You need to get the "correct" lighter element or it will keep doing that.
It is hard to tell unless you hold the one that blows the fuse next to one that doesn't.
They are not all the same.

ewill3rd
08-27-09, 11:40 AM
The APO on the back of the console uses a different fuse, it is on a completely different circuit.

Sorry I am so busy, I'll get to this as soon as I can.

smelly$cat
08-27-09, 11:44 AM
No stress man. I'm feeling pretty good at the moment. :)




The APO on the back of the console uses a different fuse, it is on a completely different circuit.

Sorry I am so busy, I'll get to this as soon as I can.

ewill3rd
08-27-09, 09:36 PM
I wish I could print these for you.... argh... I am looking at schematics.

The cigar lighter circuit is circuit number 640 (not that it matters)
It goes from the fuse block through P100 (bulkhead passthrough) and then to C306.
C306 is located under the center console, it is a 40 pin connector and circuit 640 is in cavity 5. Most of our connectors are numbered on the back even though the numbers are pretty tiny.
At the fuse block it splits off into two directions.

One goes through P100 and then off to DLC pin 16.

Do you have power at pin 16 of the DLC (on the skinny side, the end terminal... don't jam anything in there just touch it)?
You could have a broken wire, maybe a rodent issue?

If the DLC has juice you will have to pull the trim off and check power to the socket.
Keep me posted.

smelly$cat
08-28-09, 10:26 AM
Excellent info. Thank you! I will use this as I troubleshoot my ESV. Just need a free evening. Hopefully I'll get that in the next couple days. I'll be sure to post my progress!

:o


I wish I could print these for you.... argh... I am looking at schematics.

The cigar lighter circuit is circuit number 640 (not that it matters)
It goes from the fuse block through P100 (bulkhead passthrough) and then to C306.
C306 is located under the center console, it is a 40 pin connector and circuit 640 is in cavity 5. Most of our connectors are numbered on the back even though the numbers are pretty tiny.
At the fuse block it splits off into two directions.

One goes through P100 and then off to DLC pin 16.

Do you have power at pin 16 of the DLC (on the skinny side, the end terminal... don't jam anything in there just touch it)?
You could have a broken wire, maybe a rodent issue?

If the DLC has juice you will have to pull the trim off and check power to the socket.
Keep me posted.

smelly$cat
09-01-09, 12:57 PM
Hoping to get to this sometime this week. Just pulled my main bezel and gauge cluster last night. The ESV is going to be "parked" this week while I wait for the gauge cluster to be returned from repair. I should be able to chip away at the cig lighter issue in the mean time. Wife is driving the suburban for the week. :yup:

Ghost Deany
09-01-09, 07:25 PM
i have a problem with mine too, my cig lighter thats in there works fine, but i have to hold it down for it to get hot, it wont pop down and then pop out when its hot. maybe its not the correct lighter obviously. eventually, the fuse blows because its probably a incorrect lighter.

ewill3rd
09-02-09, 06:53 AM
There are several different lighters for our cars.
If you have one that is too short or too long it won't work right or it will blow the fuse.
Sometimes the sockets can get bent up too, that will make them not work right.
Get the right element is about all I can say.

That doesn't mean go in to pep boys and grab whatever you see ;)

smelly$cat
09-03-09, 11:30 AM
ewill3rd,

Ok, so, last night I finished pulling the center console apart and got to the wires at the back of the cig lighter. I was able to verify that power is reaching the back of the lighter. However, the cig lighter won't warm up and a phone charger won't work in there either. So, this tells me the socket is bad for some reason. I don't see anything down in there. So, I'm just planning on buying a new one and hoping that will solve the problem.

Let me know if you think I'm missing something.

Thanks!

ewill3rd
09-03-09, 03:56 PM
That does seem odd, but not impossible.

You can use an ohmmeter to test from the contacts to the housing and the center of the lighter.
Maybe the base is just messed up.
The socket can be tricky, I have a special tool that works great for swapping them out but without it you can get frustrated.

smelly$cat
09-03-09, 04:04 PM
Yeah, I was surprised to see that it was getting power. The dealer says they have them in stock for ~7 bux. So, I'm going to go that route.

Good call on the removal. I tried a bit last night in the dark and had no luck. I felt like I was going to break something. Maybe I should just bring it with me and see if they will pop it out for me for no charge (one can only hope). I can just see myself breaking that console piece or something and being super pissed.

Thanks again!

ewill3rd
09-03-09, 08:30 PM
I have the special tool on my desk.

It fits in the center and spreads two tabs apart then it has a handle you use to just pull it out, takes like 30 seconds.
If you don't have it you need 2 picks, some pocket screwdrivers and about an hour... :lol:
Installation is easy, you just line it up and push it in.

smelly$cat
09-04-09, 11:08 AM
We have a winner!

The new socket fixed the problem. The old one might have been repairable, but, I'm happy none the less.

I asked the service dept at the dealer about special tool to remove the existing socket and they looked at me like.... :cookoo:

Oh well.

Took me about 30 min to wrestle the old one out and swap in the new one.

I'm just glad it's working now :)

I should get my gauge cluster back in the mail by Tuesday of next week (different thread on here), and I should be a happy camper.

Nice to check a few items off the check list....

Thanks ewill3rd for all your help. I'm sure I'll be bugging you some more as I move down my to do list :)

:D


I have the special tool on my desk.

It fits in the center and spreads two tabs apart then it has a handle you use to just pull it out, takes like 30 seconds.
If you don't have it you need 2 picks, some pocket screwdrivers and about an hour... :lol:
Installation is easy, you just line it up and push it in.

ewill3rd
09-04-09, 11:14 AM
The tool number is J 42059 and it works like a charm.
Not many of your average techs have ever even seen it, we don't really need it that often.

I'll be around, glad you got those fixed.