: Over Heating... HELP!!!



ssarmstro
08-12-09, 10:15 AM
OK guys...Got a seville 95 sls and it wont stop over heating after the heater core got busted. I changed the heater core, thermostat, water pump, radiator cap, and the fan is kicking on. It is not smoking at all and can not figure out the problem can be... oh and the coolant is full... My next thing is to get some of those GM coolant sealant tabs ....I was told to make sure I got out all the air How is this done? Caddi was my fathers and since he gave it to me and it being the last car he will ever own.. I want to keep it if I can... but funds are limited in this recession... Thoughts are GREATLY appreciated...

ejguillot
08-12-09, 10:54 AM
As many others have said, check that the purge line (which runs to the top of the surge tank/reservoir) is clear and running freely. If it's blocked, you won't get rid of the air in the system.

Necrosan
08-12-09, 03:53 PM
If the purge line flows clear, before wasting any money on un-needed sealant tabs, take $50 to your local autozone and rent the block test kit and block test fluid. If the color turns yellow, your caddy has entered the realm of unsealed gaskets. If that's the case, the limited funds in this recession may be better spent elsewhere as you're looking at minimum of spending $1300 to get the job done.

SPreston2001
08-12-09, 04:09 PM
$1300?!! Tell me where I can find a mechanic to do a N* headgasket job for that price lol!

Submariner409
08-12-09, 05:12 PM
www.northstarperformance.com - 97EldoCoupe - Jake - just north of you in Ontario.

mikelawson
08-12-09, 06:14 PM
I doubt it's 1300 out the door. I charge 1500 + parts cost, so the total out the door cost is around 2000. The parts alone are 500, so if someone is willing to do it for 800, they are crazy :-)

Ranger
08-12-09, 07:01 PM
Mike are you using studs? Oh wait, you do them in the car right? Can't use studs in that case. What are you using, Timeserts or Norm's?

mikelawson
08-12-09, 11:02 PM
I use Norm's. I have no problems with studs, but Norm's inserts has never let me down, so why change when it has proven to be reliable? Let's be honest, when it comes down to it, you have a 5/8" X 11 threaded hole, and regardless of an insert or a stud, the block is STILL the weak point. I just think it's great that there are people who have stepped up to take this issue on and provide a reasonable repair bill to customers. I also have to give Norm credit for his new drilling setup, it has made the repair that much more reliable knowing the holes are drilled and tapped perfectly straight (no affiliation with Norm, just recognizing a good product :-) ).

ssarmstro
08-13-09, 09:41 AM
Ok well I think air is the issue. I when home and took the coolant tank apart. I was told by this guy that northstar engines have allot of gunk in their coolant system due to the coolant tabs your supposed to put in after changing a part. So need less to say I cleaned everything and an drove it around the neighborhood for at lest 20 mins. The temperature went down. It went up to 250 the day before. But now it is hovering around 220 to 228 which is the highest it got. I know it should run at about 215 to 220. So I think it might be a little more air or because of the water from the flush, and improper mix.