Does anyone else notice this? When stopping the car steers a bit to the right even though the steering wheel is held firmly. I've never noticed this before today as it always stopped straight. Could it be that one brake pad is grabbing more than the other? Calipers?

You could have a caliper binding up, either the piston hydraulically or friction in the sliding portion of the caliper. Suspension alignment is another possibility. Catera V

Thanks for the advice. I finally found my Chilton's book, and it also said calipers. It also mentioned air in the brake fluid. Anyway, I got an appointment Tuesday at Midas, and we'll see if you are right.

A hose could be the culprit also. Really bad oil or fluid on a rear brake will cause a pull too believe it or not. BTW, I didn't know Nat was made in Canada, she is soooo fine!!!

A hose could be the culprit also. Really bad oil or fluid on a rear brake will cause a pull too believe it or not. BTW, I didn't know Nat was made in Canada, she is soooo fine!!!\

Thanks! I'll certainly ask them at Midas, as I don't want to get a lot done that I don't have to.

About Natty, well, I agree. ;) She is not as well known as some so she could probably walk down the street without fans chasing her, although I would.

Definetly check the rubber hose that comes from the caliper to the metal brake line. Even if it looks fine on the outside they can collaspe on the inside. When you apply the brakes the master cylinder will force the fluid through the hose but when the fluid needs to flow back it cannot therefore causing a binding or grabbing of the caliper.

I kinda hate to see people going to Midas because they like to sell EVERYTHING!! So here's some basic stuff if you feel ambitious. The caliper pistons should retract smoothly into their bores with the help of a c-clamp. If one doesn't, crack that bleeder. If the piston then goes in with the bleeder open, the hose is bad. All sliding surfaces on the spindle ears and caliper edges need to be free of rust build-up and lubed. The little ring sleeves the mounting bolts go through need to slide relatively smoothly in the ears on the calipers also. In the back, look for a leaky axle seal, or wheel cylinder, and push the wheel cylinder pistons a little with a screwdriver, just to make sure they're not siezed. Also see that the shoes are adjusted properly. I hope I'm not talking you into something you don't feel comfortable with, but it can't hurt to look if you do.

Thanks to all for the awsome advice and knowledge! I learned a lot from you guys on this subject. I'm also embarrassed to say that I think it was that stretch of road that made the car veer to the right when braking. The car seems ok now, and that road tilts to the right and I think that was the reason! I took off all 4 rims and rotated, (first time ever for this old car) checked the brake pad wear indicators, and at 29,000 miles, there is plenty of wear left and they are equally distanced from the rotors so I assume the calipers are not sticking or anything.

I would have never thought of a collasped hose, but it makes sense. I heard that's why lower rad hoses have coils in them because when they suck back the coolant into the engine they keep the hose from collapsing.

I kinda hate to see people going to Midas because they like to sell EVERYTHING!!

I don't find them too bad as long as you tell them beforehand exactly what you want done, or get an estimate. They first told me it would be 3 hours for a 4 wheel alignment!! I've never known one to take that long, and if I left the car there they would drag it out and charge more labour. Still, $59.00 is what Midas wanted for the alignment, cheaper than the Caddy Dealership probably? When it comes to parts, I prefer to pay more at the dealership for quality and perfect match for the vehicle. I once got ball joints for my Pontiac at Midas and they only lasted a couple of years.