Ok, im putting it all in one spot for everyone to see.


MAF placement is 100% the issue. If you dont have your MAF sensor element in the correct spot FOR YOUR CAR AND MODS it will be WAY RICH.

Also you will have too much timing and will get airflow errors.



The only way to get it right is with a SCAN TOOL and monitor LONG TERM and short term fuel trims...

If you stand on the drivers side fender, the meter for MOST cars needs to be set to 3o clock. meaning the sensor plug is straight up and down. But on some cars it needs to be all the way towards the front.

What is happening is, depending on where you have your meter, you will have an over rich condition at low rpms and gets leaner on the top end, or backwards.....

This is due to air crowding and not entering the meter elemnent correctly... As the air goes thru the meter at different rpms, the flow does like it does on a wing of an aircraft, you need to move it to the point at which the fuel ratios stay the same thruout the run....

Just changing your meter from 12o clock to 5 oclock is a 20% change in air fuel ratios.. For those in the 9.5af at wot with the tunes, what is 20% less? The value goes right back to my commanded of 11.45. But you can see in most of the dynos, that is really rich at the start then goes to the 11.4 to 11.7 at the end of the run, it is just that the maf sensor is not in the right spot..


However, It does prove that you guys have enough fuel.... As if you where running out, it would be in the 12s or higher.....

You better tell people to take their shoes off before standing on their fender or you'll catch hell for that too.:D

You better tell people to take their shoes off before standing on their fender or you'll catch hell for that too.:D

Classic!!!

Let's call this what it is and it is a bad intake design. The bends are too aggressive, I have heard you need to give your maf 5 inches before a bend. The metal housing you screw the maf into is also too thick covering up some of the bottom most element.

If simply moving the maf can make me lean or rich I don't want it on my car. Not to mention you never said anything about the placement potentially putting people cars in a lean or rich condition until you started hearing complaints.

Only reason why i make the maf housing adjustable is just that. So it is adjustable. I could easely just put in a hard welded in section and weld all the pieces in place. Hell it would save me over 70 bucks in cost! But then you are stuck with placement and it will be wrong from car to car, mod level to mod level... It is just normal common sense to know that moving a maf/ clocking it will change air fuel ratios... You do the SAME thing for mustangs.

Who said it needed to be 5 inches from a bend???

How far is the STOCK ELEMENT LOCATION FROM A BEND????? So that means gm is not correct also? Is theres not close to a bend also???? Mine is smooth transistioning, where as the gm one is Abrupt...

It is just normal common sense to know that moving a maf/ clocking it will change air fuel ratios... You do the SAME thing for mustangs.

I see the air coming off the bends differently. I don't work on cars 24/7 and I don't follow mustangs. So this isn't easy for me, I have to end up trusting someone to help me through the initial modding to gain experience. Common sense is a byproduct of experience.

If we turned the table and I started to throw things in my job at you does it mean you don't have any common sense because you don't know what I am talking about? Of course not because you don't have any experience with it.

I simply ask myself why did you not disclose this information when I bought the 4" intake from you. That is simply gambling with an expensive car.

I moved the maf all over the place when I was dynoing my car. The afr went from 11.8 on the stock box to a 10.5. I did not see the afr fluctuate by moving it around. In the end we decided to keep it in the same 3 o'clock position as the stock box.

Who said it needed to be 5 inches from a bend???Guy who builds intakes for vettes and gto's.

How far is the STOCK ELEMENT LOCATION FROM A BEND????? So that means gm is not correct also? Is theres not close to a bend also???? Mine is smooth transistioning, where as the gm one is Abrupt...The stock box is straight and the edge is hardly a bend. I fail to see the relevance seeing as though the stock box doesn't have afr issues...

I have not heard of the New Era or Hennessey kits having these problems.

This is not isolated either about everything I have purchased from you there has been some sort of information left out.

crank pulley - bolts were not included
blower pulley - p valve needs to be capped, wrong belt size was given, wrong tune in my handheld
intake - maf position
tune update - requested 1 month ago and still do not have it
2.55 upper and 8.5 lower = 15psi

Listen I have better things to do than keep going after you on stuff but I hope you can understand why I don't trust you.

I am done with this and moving on.