: 02 DHS overheating



JackB
07-30-09, 11:13 PM
Before anyone asks I did do a search and spent about 45 minutes reading about leaking manifold gasket problems. I am still not sure that is the problem so bring these facts for an opinion. Here is how things went down,
1. Wife calls from roadside about 10 miles outside of town. Info panel says hot hot hot , change engine oil, shut off AC and stop engine. I ask if temp gauge is in red and she replies "yes". No steam or other visible signs however. I get in my car with extra oil and water and head out to meet her.

2.Arrive at scene about 1/2 hour later. Lift hood, no sign of any problem, no leaks under car, oil OK and coolant appeared filled but of course it was still some what hot. Temp gauge now under 12 o clock so decided to drive it to mechanic. After about 2 minutes on the highway temp gauge started up again and went a notch past center. I shut off AC and gauge went back to normal. I am thinking it is AC related at that time. [may have just been coincidence]

3.I drove with AC off for about 12 miles with temp gauge at normal. No problems. Then about a mile from my mechanics garage the temp started moving past center to the next mark. [so much for AC off???} I was able to make it to mechanic [closed at the time] with little trouble. Since I was now safe and with the gauge at the first mark past center I turned the AC back on. The gauge did not get hotter but in fact went back to normal and stayed that way with engine running and AC on for 10 minutes until wife arrived. Go figure.

4. After mechanic looked at car he said it needed coolant which was a surprise. He said that this has happened to other Northstars as they are anal about protecting the engine and the sensor will trigger all the events on info panel. I was happy to pay bill at that point thinking problem was solved.

5. A day later we take the car out, the temp is fine until about 20 minutes into short trip when it again starts rising above center about 1 mark. It did not however go beyond that. Occassionally it will suddenly go back to normal and it has not gone much above that first mark past center, almost like a thermostat sticks and then opens.

6. After reading about head gaskets on the forum, I did check for coolant when running cold at the tail pipes and found nothing and there is no coolant smell. I checked the coolant again cold and it is filled.

Is there a chance this could be something other than a head gasket? I will be meeting with mechanic and want to be prepared for intelligent discussion. The car has 142K miles. I would appreciate any input.

Ranger
07-30-09, 11:59 PM
There are several things it could be. Purge line could be clogged. Cap could be loosing pressure. Water pump drive belt could be slipping. IF it is the HG, it is in the early stages and you probably can't smell and exhaust gases in the surge tank.

mikelawson
07-31-09, 01:17 AM
Unfortunately, it's probably the head gaskets. I've repaired so many, and they ALL have the same symptoms. Most of the other things it COULD be usually wont cause it to overheat, unless they are extreme i.e. water pump belt shredded. If your mechanic is not experienced in Northstars, talk to me or Jake and we can help you out depending on where you're at.

Mike

JackB
07-31-09, 12:12 PM
Here is what I don't get. If it is a head gasket I would assume that coolant is burned out the exhaust and after getting low causes the temp to rise. In my case the coolant level, after the original refill by mechanic, is normal and the car still overheats even though it has not overheated more than one line past center. Why is that?
I am not familar with the purge line. I did think about the cap as the outer gasket did have a small tear near the edge but I think that is only hope. The water pump is an interesting thought. It was replaced a while back but I would not think that, even low on coolant that the car would exhibit those symptoms.
I do appreciate the advice. I am on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and do not have a lot of choices when it comes to knowledgeable NS folks.

Ranger
07-31-09, 12:28 PM
If you are not loosing coolant, it's probably not head gaskets. The purge line is the 3/8" line that enters the side of the surge tank near the top. Pull it with the engine at idle (cold) and you should see coolant flow. If you do, quickly plug it back in so as not to make a mess. If not, locate and clear the obstruction.

00 Deville
07-31-09, 01:17 PM
I am on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and do not have a lot of choices when it comes to knowledgeable NS folks.


Hmmmmm....Knowledgeable N* person in a remote, desolate place like the Eastern Shore of Maryland.... Hmmmmmm.... Sub do you know anybody?

Submariner409
07-31-09, 02:03 PM
Remote, desolate peninsula unmarred by 300 years of progress. We're gonna secede and form the State of DelMarVa.

We DO have wonderful corn, crabs, and tomatoes. Some cotton, soybeans, cucumbers, melons, fish, tractors, good ol' boys and Ford trucks.

Ranger
07-31-09, 03:30 PM
Hmmmmm....Knowledgeable N* person in a remote, desolate place like the Eastern Shore of Maryland.... Hmmmmmm.... Sub do you know anybody?
Just what I was thinking.

JackB
07-31-09, 08:58 PM
I ran the car today on a trip, including highway, for about 20 miles and it was hot out. Temp gauge stayed at 12 o clock the whole time even though I was daring it to move. We will be taking a longer trip to Salisbury on Sunday and see how it goes. Frankly I still don' t trust it yet since the temp gauge did go over one time after adding fluid. Thanks for the purge line info. I must be getting older as we always called that the overflow line. If it was blocked wouldn't the radiator cap just release the pressure? Why would the car overheat?
OK...I'll bite sub. From what part of the Upper Eastern Shore do you hail?

Mark C
07-31-09, 09:40 PM
The purge line allows gases to be purged from the crossover manifold and the waterpump housing. If the waterpump gets air bound it won't pump anything and the car will overheat. They tend to plug at the nipple on the waterpump housing expecially if you are using the GM sealant tabs, or the Bars leak equivilents. Take an 8 penny finishing nail about 3" long or a length of weed wacker string to clean it out. You have to get in about 2 inches or so to get to the water passage.

Ranger
07-31-09, 10:17 PM
:yeah:
Don't confuse the purge line with the overflow line. Two separate and distinctly different animals.

mikelawson
07-31-09, 11:02 PM
I don't think a clogged purge line will cause it to overheat like bad head gaskets will. Why am I so sure?...... I repaired a customers head gaskets and then about 3 months later they were complaining the heater wasn't working. I looked the car over and found the purge line to be totally clogged from radiator stop leak they were using before the head gasket replacement. It was so clogged I had to replace the entire throttle body, but the car NEVER went over half. So from that experience, I can say as long as the rest of the cooling system and head gaskets are in check, I don't believe this would cause an overheating issue.

mikelawson
07-31-09, 11:06 PM
Jack, the easiest way to check your head gaskets is to wait for the car to reach normal operating temp and then on the highway (close to home) give the car a good WOT run. If your temp gauge goes above 1/2, it's almost certain at that point. I've seen cars that can go 100 miles and not overheat as long as you are light on the throttle, but as soon as you open it up the gauge should react quickly. I can definitely help you with this one way or the other.

Submariner409
08-01-09, 01:52 PM
Jack.............Kent Island, north of Rt.50. I'm a 23 year "come here", not a "been here". As old Philip Davidson, at 103 years old put it, "Red, if ya warn't born here ye'll nevar be from here".

JackB
08-01-09, 02:56 PM
Sub, a little off topic but I know what you mean. I spend a lot of time in the Ocean City area in nursing homes with a therapy dog and I once had a 93 year old Ocean City woman tell me that her parents moved here when she was 2 but since she was not born in Ocean City she was not considered a local.
My wife has the Caddy on a haidresser trip [with cell phone close at hand just in case] so I will try the WOT move when I have the opportunity.

mikelawson
08-03-09, 02:00 PM
That will definitely tell you one way or the other!

Mike

JackB
08-03-09, 04:15 PM
Ok here is the latest. Took the car on a shopping trip from Ocean City to Salisbury on a hot day [88 degrees]. The gauge stayed at normal [almost] all the way up. I say "almost" because we made a quick stop at a produce stand on the way. As we slowed down the gauge moved a little off center but not past next mark. On resuming trip gauge returned to normal.
On the return trip the gauge did have a few times when it would go above normal [but not past next mark] but usually would return to normal but without much rhyme or reason. When close to home on an interstate we goosed it 2 times at full throttle to 70. We were able to get the gauge to just barely go past center but then it returned to normal. At no time would it ever go past the first mark past center. Frankly, now that I am getting used to it, the gauge acted pretty much like the first time I rescued my wife and that was before the fluid was added by mechanic. It is really weird. I checked the coolant again this morning to see if we had lost any but the level was still 1 1/2" below the bottom opening. Frankly that may be a little more than should be but no adverse affects appear. Is there any chance this could be a thermostat or sensor peroblem?

00 Deville
08-03-09, 04:57 PM
When close to home on an interstate we goosed it 2 times at full throttle to 70. We were able to get the gauge to just barely go past center but then it returned to normal.

Jack, If you really want to test the car. You need to drive it like you stole it. After it's warmed to normal operating temp...put her in 2nd gear.... from a dead standstill... go WOT to 70MPH... let it coast down to 20-30mph go WOT again. Repeat this 4-5 times and you will know if she is going to overheat.

Submariner409
08-03-09, 07:37 PM
Look at the picture and compare it with this: The thermostat starts to open at 188 and is fully open at 206, so most of the time the car runs with the thermostat 60% open or so......fans don't even go to slow until 224 or when any A/C function is commanded, so with a/c you'll hardly ever see any appreciable gauge movement. Fans go to fast at 236. It is perfectly normal for the gauge to move 1/8" or so on a slowdown or stop from 55 - 70.

Modern car gauges are purposely heavily damped because the drivers go paranoid if anything moves. The temp gauge has a 25 degree dead spot at 12:00 to keep you from bugging the dealer because it moved. Know why there's no real oil pressure gauge ? Because drivers would go freako if they saw the pressure go back and forth from 15 to 60 psi all day in normal traffic.

Take a look at www.scangauge.com. The information from one of those blows a lot of myths out of the water. Especially the old "CAI" smoke and mirrors act..........

JackB
08-09-09, 12:03 PM
I tried the wide open throttle test and was able to get the needle to move but not past one mark after 12 oc clock. Then, when my wife was out driving around after getting used to the needle not going past one and usually returning to the middle, it happened again with the needle, for the firat time since the major incident. This time, however, she had been keeping her eye on the gauge and when the needle hit 3 0 clock she pulled over and let the car cool down. By doing this 2 more times she was able to get back home.
I have the car scheduled to get a new thermostat on Monday and see how that works. During all this time since the first incident I have been keeping an eagle eye on the coolant level and the level has not moved at all. I would think that a HG problem would eat coolant eventually leading to overheating??? Anyway, next step is thermostat replacement. Will let you know how it goes.

JackB
08-11-09, 10:08 PM
Fortunately my mechanic only charged $45 to replace thermostat, including part because my wife experienced the same overheating problem the next day. Was worth a try but it looks like a head gasket problem. Now to decide what is the next plan of action.

mikelawson
08-11-09, 11:51 PM
Where are you located Jack?

JackB
08-12-09, 02:15 PM
I am down near Ocean City.

00 Deville
08-12-09, 05:26 PM
... Was worth a try but it looks like a head gasket problem. Now to decide what is the next plan of action.


Jack the definitive test that will tell you if the head gasket is leaking is to test for exhaust gasses in the air space in the coolant overflow bottle. The test kit available at NAPA it's called a block test kit. Some radiator shops can also do this test for you.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7001006&Description=Leak+Detector+Kit+%2F+Engine+Block

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

mikelawson
08-12-09, 05:58 PM
Jack, you are a ways away, but I can help you if you want. Call me @ 502-638-2592 or my cell @ 502-291-1249 and I can answer any other questions you may have.

Mike.

JackB
08-13-09, 09:00 PM
Thanks Mike but I have decided it is time to pack it in with this car. I would appreciate one piece of advice. The car is so unpredictable as to when it overheats badly enough to have to stop along the roadside which has only happened twice so far. Eventually I will have to drive it to a Dealer about 30 minutes away. Does it improve the odds of not overheating to drive carefully or is it just a matter of luck? If it does overheat is there any trick in getting on the road quicker or does one have to wait for things to cool down. I ask because the needle can be heading towards hot then suddenly decide to head back to the center. Is that because the air pocket that created the steam which set off the temp alarm has somehow released?
Sure not like the old days when an over heat was an over heat.
Thanks again for your assistance along the way.

Ranger
08-13-09, 09:40 PM
Is that because the air pocket that created the steam which set off the temp alarm has somehow released?It wasn't released, but moved on down the line and coolant got to the sensor again.

mikelawson
08-14-09, 12:28 AM
If you are easy on the throttle and take it easy, you can definitely prolong your driving time. Another thing you can do is to turn the heat on high, but once you are only getting cold air, an overheat situation is right around the corner. Are you going to sell the car as I know some people who may be interested in buying it from you, but obviously they would be expecting a deal since it has head gasket issues? They are bullet proof engines once the gaskets are replaced, so you may want to consider your options before opting into a car payment.

JackB
08-14-09, 01:39 PM
Mike, I have pretty much decided to trade the car. Your offer of having someone buy the car who is interested in repairing it just might have interest for the following reason. I may move down to a CTS and the only one I can find in inventory that my wife likes is 7 hours away. I don't mind picking the new car up that far away but am obviously leary of driving our Caddy that far and of course the dealer has a difficult time offering a trade in value without actually seeing the car. I was offered 5k on trade by a local dealer but they were not aware of the heating issue.
I actually had planned on keeping the car through 2011 so had recently put on new Michelin tires. It has 3 issues. Heating up of course, service stability soon light which comes on occassionally but can be turned off with info button [we decided that this was the steering wheel sensor and not worth fixing, service engine soon light is on which code shows it is the torque converter lock up solenoid and we could live without it. aside from that the car is still a looker and has all the options.
The key here, of course, is that someone would have to pick up the car in Ocean City. Let me know as we are currently in the midst negotiating. Thanks again for your interest no matter what happens.

JackB
08-16-09, 03:17 PM
Update. Deal is done and we will be driving out to pick up the new CTS later this week. They offered us 2k for the DHS sight unseen and offered to send someone 7 hours to pick up the car since we did not trust driving it that far. If anyone wants to make a better offer [and pick up car] they need to let me know. Under the circumstances we did not have much choice due to lack of inventory and lack of Dealers on Eastern Shore. [one Caddy dealer had gone bankrupt and the second just announced they had been given a reprieve by GM and should be bringing in inventory shortly which explains why they had very few cars on their lot] Can't believe we are driving 7 hours to buy a car. One of the downsides of living near the ocean I guess, at least in Maryland. We still drive the DHS locally. What a weird problem and sad in a way since the car is so nice. The head gasket problem was a real disapointment in what was otherwise a fine vehicle. Thanks again for everyones assistance. Looking forward to our new ride.

Submariner409
08-16-09, 05:52 PM
Nothing at Fitzgerald Cadillac on Rt.50 in Annapolis, 2.5 hours from OC ?? Capital Cadillac, on the DC beltway, is a half hour more; Lindsay Cadillac, in Alexandria, VA is an hour west of Annapolis.

GM Giant, in Easton, MD was closed by GM due to their staggering floorplan debt load. One day they were there, the next morning it was gone. The equivalent of an entire city block !!

Ranger
08-16-09, 10:45 PM
Can't believe we are driving 7 hours to buy a car.
I bought mine in Dallas Tx.

ThatDGuy
08-18-09, 09:38 AM
I had seemlier problem the other day but mine ran hot only once. I have brand new radiator (a month old) I was told my thermostat is going bad were is it atÖ and that was determined cause the radiator hose was kind of hardÖ and I did notice the rubber around the overflow cap is not in the best condition either so Iím going to replace it too.

PS
I have an 02 DTS if that matters at all.

Submariner409
08-18-09, 06:52 PM
Your radiator hose should be hard: that system carries 18 psi. The proper cap for your surge tank is about $8.99 at a NAPA store or any large parts store. DO NOT fill the surge tank to the top. Halfway full, COLD, is the proper level.

Your car should run at 195 - 205 degrees all day long with any A/C function set, and it will cycle from 200 to 224, especially in traffic, if no A/C function is set because the fans do not run all the time with A/C OFF.

Your fans go to slow speed at 224 and fast at 236. That is normal. The thermostat is set to begin opening at 188 and is fully open at 206, so the car runs normally with the thermostat about 60% to 75% open.

The thermostat is in the water pump cover assembly, near the front side of the driver's end of the engine. The water pump is driven by the black pulley attached to the driver's end of the front intake camshaft. You should not need to replace the thermostat in a 2002 Northstar.

JackB
08-19-09, 03:04 PM
I don't want to say there was "nothing" in the way of CTS inventory but pickings were slim, especially when we wanted a couple of non negotiable items. The NAV system, pearl white and AWD, I plugged in dealers for a 500 mile radius of Ocean City Md. Then the Dealer in Pittsburgh that had one told us that since inventories of 09s were light and 2010s were coming in late they were not participating in dealer swaps. They made a reasonable deal on the CTS and agreed to flatbed our DHS from OC. End of story. It will be a pain returning 7 hours from Pittsburgh with 2 cars, especially during the time that my wife gets to drive the CTS and I am in the Jeep. We have family in Pittsburgh so it is not all that bad and we did drive from Ocean City, Md. to South Carolina a few years ago to buy a used boat like I wanted. Must be a family thing.
To ThatDGuy, I wish you well. I went through the same process and the guys on the forum were correct that it ended up being a head gasket. It just takes a while to wrap ones head around the specific problem. My mechanic explained how it happens which is a little complicated and no where near what one expected with overheating in the old days. The head bolts, under the compression stroke can stretch slightly in engines with the problem because they are threaded into aluminum. That allows coolant to burn off,[how much depends on how often this happens and it happens more when the car is pushed]. An air pocket is then formed in the coolant path which turns to steam and the temp sensor then is reading steam which is very hot. That is why one can run quite a distance with no problem or have the gauge just go a little past the middle and return to center but then suddenly, with no warning move all the way to hot, at which point you have to pull to the side of the road and let it cool down before continuing.
The problem is frustrating because the car is out of action for any long trip and from what I investigated down here there is not a mechanic that wants to touch repairing the problem. It is also why the mecanic in Canada that does repair Northstars replaces the head bolts with studs. This is basically how a race engine is built. The studs thread much further into the aluminum block and prevent the problem from reocurring. I would have done that if the fellow was closer. Same with Mike in Kentucky. Let us know how you make out.

tateos
08-19-09, 09:11 PM
We drove about 2 1/2 hours from Fountain Hills to Tucson in 12/03. We wanted a 2004 Grand Prix GTP with the Comp G package and basically every option except the block heater. The new generation GPs had just come out recently and there was not a lot of choices. We decided the Fusion Orange was the only color we liked. I called Tucson and negotiated a deal that was good, so we drove down, we thought to fill out the paperwork and give the deposit. We were paying cash, and did not have enough in Cash Reserves to write a check for the full amount. I told them that, and they took my check and told us to just take the car and go; all they asked was for me to call them when the check was covered, which I did in a few days. So, they basically gave us a car with no payment - just a promise the check would be good in a few days. I would have thought they would want either cash, a cashier's check, or not to release the car until the check cleared. Amazing! They did do a credit check on us, even though we did not finance the car, and it came back good, so maybe that was the trick?

JackB
08-21-09, 10:15 PM
Tateos, You must be right. We just returned from buying our CTS from Cochran Cadillac in Pittsburgh and none of our fears of what might happen were founded. They had no idea who we were and when we originally asked if they wanted us to send a check to hold the car they said not to worry about it. When we arrived the car was setting, all ready, right next to the show room. No extra fees. Just a question regarding the extended warranty option which we declined. The only minor problem was them finding a front license plate holder which is not used in Pa but required in Maryland. They were able to locate one on a car that had come in from Ohio. Paperwork was completed in an hour and we were on our way.
Cochran is a large dealer who, on the same grounds, also had franchises for other GM franchises and when I asked if they handled the other non Caddy deals like ours they smiled which meant NO. Advantage of being a Cadillac customer. We, of course had to drive 2 cars 71/2 hours back home [after overnighting with my son] but it gave my wife and I ample opportunity to get used to our new ride. Just a couple of things we miss from our DHS but overall we are very impressed with the CTS. Now we are waiting for them to pick up the DHS from our driveway and flatbed it into overheating heaven.

ThatDGuy
08-26-09, 10:44 AM
Is there a reason why in the morning my radiator hose is a lil tight and when I open the overflow bottle I hear the pressure releasing and then the radiator hose is regular? All this is in the morning before I start the car??

00 Deville
08-26-09, 11:01 AM
Is there a reason why in the morning my radiator hose is a lil tight and when I open the overflow bottle I hear the pressure releasing and then the radiator hose is regular? All this is in the morning before I start the car??

Sounds like you relieving the pressure out of the cooling system when you pull the cap off the pressurized bottle... thereby relieving the pressure out of the hose softening it up. The cooling system on your 02 can run as high as 18 psi. Sounds like some of this pressure is still there in the morning.

Don't worry about it... enjoy your ride.

ThatDGuy
08-26-09, 01:42 PM
The pressure is still there from sitting over 12hrs???........now my car ran hot on me one day and one day only, I notice this the last few days

00 Deville
08-26-09, 02:07 PM
The pressure is still there from sitting over 12hrs???........now my car ran hot on me one day and one day only, I notice this the last few days

Now I noticed your other post back at #33... that you overheated once and replaced your radiator and were told you might have a bad thermostat. In the future it's a lot easier on everybody if you start your own post instead of hijacking someone else's... it gets confusing for someone like me that missed your other post among the 40 other posts.

It's not normal at all for your N* to overheat the cooling system is more than adequate. Why are you taking the cap off are you loosing coolant? The "one day" that it ran hot was this before or after the radiator was replaced?

ThatDGuy
08-27-09, 08:58 AM
This was after I replaced the radiator about a month or so..

I see what youíre saying about creating your own post I just figure why put similar post out when youíre pretty much talking bout the same thing..

00 Deville
08-27-09, 09:45 AM
This was after I replaced the radiator about a month or so..
I see what youíre saying about creating your own post I just figure why put similar post out when youíre pretty much talking bout the same thing..



Why was your radiator replaced?

Have you been having to add coolant? Is so how much and how often?

Take the car out and drive it like you stole it... just beat the piss out of it... lot's of WOT's (wide open throttles) drive it at 70 mph in 2nd gear for a couple of miles also. Let us know if it overheats.

ThatDGuy
08-27-09, 10:27 AM
I replaced the radiator cause it had crack in it…I did but did not over heat it went to the 2nd line after 12’oclock, is that 2’oclock? But it went back to 12 it even went to 2’oclock on street n hwy with ac on and off??

00 Deville
08-27-09, 11:08 AM
It's possible that you might of had some air in the cooling system left over from the radiator change. The air should be purged out of the system with normal driving... if you continue to have an overheating problem I would suspect a clogged purge line. It's the line that runs from the overflow tank to the water pump. You can remove the purge line from the overflow tank and there should be coolant flowing out of it when the engine is running.

ThatDGuy
08-28-09, 11:19 AM
I just want to say thanks a lot guys for all your help I purged lines and everything I just didnít want it to be what Iíve been hearing all alongÖ HEAD GASGET!!!:dammit: I took it into the shop I told them everythingÖ the took the cap off the radiator and they put this devise over the overflow bottle and it turned a different color meaning HEAD GASGET!!!:crying: The coolant was even bubbling which it should not be doing. I LOVE MY CADDIE so Iím getting it fix, I just donít think itís a better car out there at least and American made one.

Thanks Alot once again for all your help

00 Deville
08-28-09, 12:02 PM
Sorry to hear that you have the dreaded exhaust gasses in your coolant. How many miles does she have on her? Now I'm wondering if the exhaust gasses over pressurizing the cooling system didn't have something to do with your radiator cracking.

ThatDGuy
08-28-09, 02:16 PM
I got 120k on it and yes exhaust gasses over pressurizing the cooling system is the first tell tell sign of it is that slit on the radiator... now mines was on the passenger side on that plastic part and my buddies havin the same problem and we thought it was just defect in caddies radiators.

Would you get it fix??

Now they would be putting metel anchors or whatever in the block this time tho

00 Deville
08-28-09, 02:42 PM
There are 3 different type of "Anchors" that are in use they are...

- Studs http://northstarperformance.com/

- Norm's inserts

- Timeserts

If the anchors are properly done this should be a permanent fix for the head gasket issue

How much do they want to fix it?

There are several guys on this forum that do the head gasket repairs at a reasonable price. The first 2 that come to mind are Jake at Northstar performance he uses the studs and charges $2000 US he's located in Ontario.

Mike Lawson uses Norm's inserts and does the repair with the engine in the car he's located in Kentucky. I'm not sure what he charges but from what I heard it's very reasonable for a N* head gasket.

ThatDGuy
08-28-09, 02:51 PM
Im not for sure what inserts he will use but it will cost $2000 with new water pump,crossover and some other things he mentioned.

Im in Mchigan

00 Deville
08-28-09, 03:27 PM
Im not for sure what inserts he will use but it will cost $2000 with new water pump,crossover and some other things he mentioned.

Im in Mchigan


That seems like a really good price for the Head Gasket and the additional work. I would say go ahead and fix the car.

tateos
08-28-09, 03:31 PM
I got 120k on it and yes exhaust gasses over pressurizing the cooling system is the first tell tell sign of it is that slit on the radiator... now mines was on the passenger side on that plastic part and my buddies havin the same problem and we thought it was just defect in caddies radiators.

Would you get it fix??

Now they would be putting metel anchors or whatever in the block this time tho

Yeah - that happened to me the first time around; cracking the side tank, along with the overheating was the giveawy that it was the HG - that's why I think it's a waste of $50 when people buy that cooling system exhaust gas test kit, after they already replaced the radiator, thermostat, and maybe some hoses, but I respect their right to make that decision.

ThatDGuy
08-28-09, 05:33 PM
I was just wondering I seen and ad on this site saying they can fix your HG, call Thermagasket or Rxauto.com is that stuff real and do u guys support that....I understand bills gotta get paid it's just a question?

Ranger
08-28-09, 05:50 PM
It won't work.

00 Deville
08-28-09, 06:23 PM
Don't put that stuff in your car.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/162972-head-gasket-repair-additives-any-good.html

Submariner409
08-28-09, 07:43 PM
Some would like to believe that a gasket in a bottle is a fix for a problem. Not so - if there is a mechanical problem you repair that and go on. Temporary "Band Aids" are just that - temporary: you still have the underlying problem. While a cheap fix is tempting, it is eventually non-productive in that you, or someone else, has to take the mess apart and repair it at some future date.

zonie77
08-28-09, 09:33 PM
My brother in Chicago got desperate when his daughter's Aurora lost the HG's and tried one of those "fixes". It never sealed the hg's but it sealed the heater core. He kept cleaning it out and use a stocking in the hose as a filter. Eventually they got rid of the car because the heater kept clogging.

He had the hg's fixed the right way in the meantime.