I think I've reassembled the car correctly this time.

Unfortunately, I broke off the tab that holds the pin for the accelerator pump arm. I reattached it with JB weld, but it's already wobbly again.

Worse, I need to knock the pin out to mount the arm.

A punch is one of the few tools that I haven't had to buy for my home repairs, but that's easily solvable.

My current plan is to take a punch to it, put the arm on, and then apply more JB weld along the fracture line, and hoping that it remains stable enough.

Is this the right approach? Any hints or suggestions?

thanks

hawk

You are correct in theory. In order for JB weld to work, it must join the 2 broken pieces, not be applied to the fracture line but between the 2 parts. The roll pin is gently tapped from the front of the carb with a drift punch in to where it almost touches the vertical air horn wall, then the pump lever is inserted and a flat blade screw driver is used to pry the roll pin back into the 2 brackets that hold it. Each car calls for a different hole be used on the lever in order to set the pump stroke. So verify which hole is correct in the carb overhaul worksheet.

Yeah, that's a delicate procedure and I've broken a couple in my younger days. Now I am even very careful putting on the air cleaner so I won't bump it too hard and break it. I never had any luck with JB Weld on that fix. I did see a very clever fix on a rebuilt carb I bought. Somebody tossed the broken piece and used some sort of a shouldered screw and screwed the lever to the remaining side where the pin used to go. It works fine and is pretty darn solid. I have never dared to take it out to see exactly what kind of screw it is but I assume it is either a course thread like a sheet metal screw or more probably a self threading screw like GM uses inside their distributers. Those are kind of fine threaded with a groove cut in the end.

I don't have access to cool hardware where I live but I'll bet Mcmaster Carr has something like it.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shoulder-screws/=2wuqhm

I guess they do, something like those. That's how some shop fixed it on a carb I bought.

You are correct in theory. In order for JB weld to work, it must join the 2 broken pieces, not be applied to the fracture line but between the 2 parts.


It seems to be rocking on one edge. I suppose that I'll put another round between, but this time dress the edges, too.

This isn't something I can weld or solder with a simple propane torch, is it?

The roll pin is gently tapped from the front of the carb with a drift punch in to where it almost touches the vertical air horn wall, then the pump lever is inserted and a flat blade screw driver is used to pry the roll pin back into the 2 brackets that hold it. Each car calls for a different hole be used on the lever in order to set the pump stroke. So verify which hole is correct in the carb overhaul worksheet.

I don't think that that was in my sheet, but I took plenty of pictures. I hope it wasn't too far off (this turned out to be a 75 carb in a 72, and some other things I've found have been, uhm, creative . . . It started when I bought it, but the line was attached to the wrong post--but another wire was *hanging* over, shorting to the right post. When it fell off, it took me a long time and a lot of work to figure ths out . . .)

And later last night, I realized that I could start and run the car by manually operating the pump . . .

Failing a successful jb weld, I suppose I'll try to duplicate what Al describes--but in the meantime, at least I could get the thing registered.

thanks

hawk