: Here's all my car problems in one place



ocmdiaz714
07-24-09, 01:13 AM
I just bought a Cadillac and had to do a SMOG check in order to change ownership. Visual Inspection and Functional Check passed except for the Emissions test. The car has 149,153 miles and a new transmission. Here is the problem:

NO (PPM)

MAX

* 674
* 673

My score was:

* 879
* 734

As you can see my score is higher. If I understand correctly; in the California DMV you have 10 days to report you bought a used car, and 30 days to pay fees & taxes, correct? Meaning, I could go over and notify them about the sell and not worry about another smog test or paying the fees, for 30 days? If anybody can help me out on tips to decrease my score please let me know! I went to the cheapest SMOG check place in my town and it took the guy only about 5 minutes to let me know I didn't pass. He wanted to charge $70 for a diagnostics plus repairs but I walked about with the test only.

ocmdiaz714
07-24-09, 02:14 AM
Before going over to the smog check place I drove my car for about 20 minutes in the street with about 1/4 of gas. What PSI should I have on my tires? I usually fill up with grade 89 gas at either Chevron or Arco. Here's the rest:

HC:
15 mph: 7
25 mph: 5

%CO2
15 mph: 14.0
25 mph: 14.0

%O2
15 mph: 0.9
25 mph: 0.8

CO
15 mph: 0.23
25 mph: 0.22

jey
07-24-09, 06:12 PM
Tire pressure is printed on a label on the driver's door jam. But that has little to do with emissions - try just 87 octane gas, the ECU is optimized to run on 87 and it may be running rich on 89.

ocmdiaz714
08-02-09, 03:52 AM
I failed my second Smog Check today due to high NOx. After failing the first time, I added premium Arco gas with an additive and when I ran it empty I put in 10 gallons of Shell premium gas with an Octane Boost additive. I The NOx did get reduced on the second try yet not enough for my 1994 FWB to pass. I am now thinking of adding two quarts of the denatured alcohol to a 1/4 tank-full. Would that help?

First Smog Check Results:
NO (PPM)

MAX

* 674
* 673

My score was:

* 879
* 734

Second Time:
http://hostmyimg.info/images/zhl439s6g107hzmjsxy5.jpg

jayoldschool
08-02-09, 11:07 AM
I can just about guarantee that the high NOx is caused by a bad EGR. Check/replace: EGR valve, EGR soleniod, vacuum harness to EGR.

ocmdiaz714
08-02-09, 02:41 PM
I can just about guarantee that the high NOx is caused by a bad EGR. Check/replace: EGR valve, EGR soleniod, vacuum harness to EGR.

I am not that good under the hood. I just came back in from looking under the hood, any pictures you guys could show me?

jayoldschool
08-02-09, 06:11 PM
THIS (http://www.shbox.com/1/4th_gen_EGR.html) explains everything...

Here is where to find the EGR (under the home plate resonator, back of the intake):

http://www.shbox.com/1/EGR_service.jpg

Here is the vacuum harness, and the EGR solenoid:

http://www.shbox.com/1/EGR_solenoid.jpg

ocmdiaz714
08-03-09, 12:27 AM
THIS (http://www.shbox.com/1/4th_gen_EGR.html) explains everything...

Here is where to find the EGR (under the home plate resonator, back of the intake):

http://www.shbox.com/1/EGR_service.jpg

Here is the vacuum harness, and the EGR solenoid:

http://www.shbox.com/1/EGR_solenoid.jpg

Thanks a lot for the pictures. So I would remove the black cover and clean out the "EGR" valve with carburetor cleaner and stick it back in? Thanks.

http://i32.tinypic.com/2a4pydw.png

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

ocmdiaz714
08-03-09, 03:15 AM
Today I felt as if it was shaking as I was driving and as if it went into different gears as I felt a strong push when speeding. I thought it might had been the gas as I was nearly empty so when I went to refuel I noticed I didn't have the gas cap, I had perhaps forgotten it at some other station. I went to the Shell where I last went and got one from the Lost & Found that the cashier had; the shaking seemed to stop but I still feel that push as if it wants to speed up or as if something hit it from the back. Could anybody tell me what that is? It happens in both Drive and Over Drive (3) but seems to happen the most when on Over Drive (3.) I could probably say this started when I last added fuel and probably forgot the cap, could that had been the issue? I also sprayed the engine this morning with a degreaser, rinse it off and let the engine run for 15 minutes, if that's makes a difference. The car was running fine before that (even though I only drove for about 15 minutes.)

EndlessRyd
08-03-09, 11:39 AM
Denatured alcohol should work too... thats basically what is inside the "guaranteed to Pass" stuff that they sell. I work in the car industry, and I know a few people that have used the alcohol with great results. Dont use it in any vehicle with a turbocharger though, Ive heard it could cause serious damage. Im really sick of all of this environmental bs that we have here. Its just another way to tax us to death and blame it on global warming.... Not too convincing when it was a record breaking cold July.

jayoldschool
08-03-09, 12:51 PM
Thanks a lot for the pictures. So I would remove the black cover and clean out the "EGR" valve with carburetor
cleaner and stick it back in?

You're welcome! Yes, remove the cover with the two nuts that hold it down, and loosen the clamp that is underneath it at the front. I wouldn't clean it, I would just replace it. My 94 Caprice wagon that I bought a couple of months ago had high NOx on the test, but just passed. I'll be doing this work as well...

jayoldschool
08-03-09, 12:56 PM
You have to get to the parts store and buy a correct gas cap. The fuel system is sealed, and a properly functioning cap is essential to performance. On the OBD2 cars (96), it will set a Check Engine light if you leave the cap off (or loose).

Your shaking is a likely a misfire, probably caused by the engine washing. Get the correct gas cap back on, and keep driving the car to dry it out. If the shaking continues, you will have to figure out what is causing the misfire. Could be the opti, the coil, the coil wire, etc.

ocmdiaz714
08-03-09, 08:16 PM
The car doesn't shake anymore yet as of this morning the Service Engine Soon comes on and stays for about every 5 minutes and turns off. I tired depressing the "Off" and "Up/Warm" button at the same time on the climate control yet that only shows "-00" and "Off." I have a 1994 FWB. Thank you.

jayoldschool
08-03-09, 09:05 PM
Did you replace the cap??


You have to get to the parts store and buy a correct gas cap.

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 12:00 AM
Did you replace the cap??

Where could I pick it up? I tired eBay. Also, at 25mph is when I feel the push in the back. I check the Trans. fluid and it looks ok. The Servce engine light now stays lit and the traction control light comes on and off. Ugh. :crying2:

Stingroo
08-04-09, 12:06 AM
www.rockauto.com has your gas cap for $4.08.

:)

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 12:10 AM
Would it be safe to drive it with the incorrect one? The one I have know seems to fit fine and it screws on like the original but it's much smaller.

jayoldschool
08-04-09, 12:38 AM
ANY parts store will have your cap in stock.

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 12:41 AM
ANY parts store will have your cap in stock.

Say AutoZone or Kragen? Do I ask for a specific size? I'm taking my car into AAMCO, they have a promotion going on for a free check-up on any car with the "Check Engine" light on. :crying:

Stingroo
08-04-09, 12:53 AM
AutoZone should have it. Don't know what a Kragen is. Must not exist in FL.

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 01:15 AM
Here are the codes I pulled off the OBD

-00/ 46, 22, 85
-01/ 23, 45, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 128, 130, 131, 133, 143, 144, 145
-04/ 64, 121, 162
-05/ 10
-08/ 164
-13/ 03
-18/ 117
-19/ 128
-20/ 155
-21/ 155
-22 /104
-23/ 54
-24 / 82
-25 / 154
-26 / 107
-28/ 121
-29/ 38
-30/ 55
-31 /56
-36 /117
-37 /50
-38 /04

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 01:44 AM
Pass key fault, Traction Control and Service engine soon all stay lit now while driving. :( The traction control light and service engine soon just lit up today while the pass key fault has been around ever since I picked up the car from the previous owner who had told me that a needle went through the VATS chip on the key.

Here are the codes I pulled off the OBD

-00/ 46, 22, 85
-01/ 23, 45, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 128, 130, 131, 133, 143, 144, 145
-04/ 64, 121, 162
-05/ 10
-08/ 164
-13/ 03
-18/ 117
-19/ 128
-20/ 155
-21/ 155
-22 /104
-23/ 54
-24 / 82
-25 / 154
-26 / 107
-28/ 121
-29/ 38
-30/ 55
-31 /56
-36 /117
-37 /50
-38 /04

sven914
08-04-09, 02:08 AM
Not sure if these are accurate, but it's all I got. My source (http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb-tech.html) only gives the two digit codes. It is also missing some of diagnostic parameters that your car has set.

CODES
0046= Anti-Theft Pass Key Signal Was Wrong
0022= TPS low Voltage
0085= TCC solenoid problem after commanded OFF by PCM
0123= Delayed Interior Light (DIL) enable circuit open or shorted to ground
0145= Steering wheel sensor circuit open or shorted to battery
0464= Throttle position signal malfunction

DIAGNOSTIC PARAMETERS
05/10= your program number is 10
20/155= "Current Temperature Valve Position" is at 155 counts (this is its actual position)
22/104= "Temperature Valve Position (Full Cold)" is at 104 counts
23/54= "Temperature Valve Position (Full Hot)" is at 54 counts
24/82= "Engine Coolant Temperature" is at 82*
25/154= "Command Temperature Valve Position" is at 154 counts (this is where th computer wants it)
28/121= "Inside Air Temperature Sensor" reads 121* (?!)
31/56= "Outside Air Temperature Sensor" reads 56*
37/50= "EEPROM Revision Number" (software) is 50

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 02:35 AM
Not sure if these are accurate, but it's all I got. My source (http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb-tech.html) only gives the two digit codes. It is also missing some of diagnostic parameters that your car has set.

CODES
0046= Anti-Theft Pass Key Signal Was Wrong
0022= TPS low Voltage
0085= TCC solenoid problem after commanded OFF by PCM
0123= Delayed Interior Light (DIL) enable circuit open or shorted to ground
0145= Steering wheel sensor circuit open or shorted to battery
0464= Throttle position signal malfunction

DIAGNOSTIC PARAMETERS
05/10= your program number is 10
20/155= "Current Temperature Valve Position" is at 155 counts (this is its actual position)
22/104= "Temperature Valve Position (Full Cold)" is at 104 counts
23/54= "Temperature Valve Position (Full Hot)" is at 54 counts
24/82= "Engine Coolant Temperature" is at 82*
25/154= "Command Temperature Valve Position" is at 154 counts (this is where th computer wants it)
28/121= "Inside Air Temperature Sensor" reads 121* (?!)
31/56= "Outside Air Temperature Sensor" reads 56*
37/50= "EEPROM Revision Number" (software) is 50

Thanks a lot for the info. So I should pay attention to the codes you decoded for me and not the parameters? And I think what I would need to do is:

Replace VATS lock cylinder.
Replace CCM. (Interior lights stayed on)
Replace Throttle Position Sensor
Replace Torque Converter Clutch
Replace O2 Sensor
Full Tune-Up

= No more check engine light and passed smog check???
Don't have the money for all of that, have unemployment. :(

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 03:37 AM
Don't mean to spam but I couldn't edit my previous post. I was told by the previous owner that I need to turn off the traction control or else it will fail the smog, is that right? I don't know what to do now as the traction control light stays lit. What is the traction control for anyways, would it be safe to turn it off and keep it off even though the light stays lit?

thefleetwoodguy
08-04-09, 10:38 AM
Pass key fault, Traction Control and Service engine soon all stay lit now while driving. :( The traction control light and service engine soon just lit up today while the pass key fault has been around ever since I picked up the car from the previous owner who had told me that a needle went through the VATS chip on the key.

Here are the codes I pulled off the OBD

-00/ 46, 22, 85
-01/ 23, 45, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 128, 130, 131, 133, 143, 144, 145
-04/ 64, 121, 162
-05/ 10
-08/ 164
-13/ 03
-18/ 117
-19/ 128
-20/ 155
-21/ 155
-22 /104
-23/ 54
-24 / 82
-25 / 154
-26 / 107
-28/ 121
-29/ 38
-30/ 55
-31 /56
-36 /117
-37 /50
-38 /04

heres the complete list of trouble codes
PCM diagnostics codes... (-00)

11: malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) circuit
13: Bank 1 (left) heated o2 sensor (open circuit)
14: Engine coolant coolant temperature sensor (siganl voltage low, high tempurature indicated)
15: Engine coolant coolant temperature sensor (siganl voltage high, low tempurature indicated.
16: Distributor ignition system (low resolution pulse)
18: injector circuits.
21: Throttle position sensor TPS circuit (signal voltage high)
22: Throttle position sensor TPS circuit (signal voltage low)
23: Air intake temperature IAT sensor circuit (signal voltage high, low temperature indicated.
24: Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) circuit.
25: Air intake temperature IAT sensor circuit (signal voltage low, high temperature indicated
26: Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge solenoid circuit.
27: Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) vaccum control signal solenoid valve circuit
28: transmission range (TR) pressure switch assembly fault
29: Secondary air injector (AIR) pump circuit.
32: Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) 1 of 2
33: Manifold absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit (signal voltage high- vacuum low)
34: Manifold absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit (signal voltage low-vacuum high)
36: Distrigutor ignition system (faulty high resolution pulse or extra low resolution pulse detected.)
37: brake switch stuck on
38: brake switch stuck off
41: Ignition control (IC) circuit (open)
42: Ignition control (IC) circuit (shorted or grounded circuit)
43: Knock sensor (KS) circuit
44: Bank 1 (left) heated O2 sensor circuit (lean exhaust indicated)
45: Bank 1 (left) heated O2 sensor circuit (rich exhaust indicated)
46: PASS-key II circuit
47: Knock sensor circuit or control module missing.
48: Mass air flow (MAF) sensor circuit
50: system voltage low
51: EEPROM programming error
53: Sytem voltage high
55: Fuel lean monitor
58: Transmission fluid temp. (TFT) sensor circuit low (High temperature indicated)
59: Transmission fluid temp. (TFT) sensor circuit high (Low temperature indicated)
63: Bank 2 (right) Heated oxygen sensor(HO2S) circuit (open circuit)
64: Bank 2 (right) Heated oxygen sensor(HO2S) circuit (lean exhaust indicated)
65: Bank 2 (right) Heated oxygen sensor(HO2S) circuit (rich exhaust indicated)
66: A/C pressure refrigerant circuit (open or shorted)
67: A/C pressure refrigerant circuit (pressure sensor or A/C clutch circuit problem)
68: A/C relay circuit (shorted circuit)
69: A/C clutch circuit
70: A/C clutch relay driver circuit
72: vehicle speed sensor loss
73: Pressure control solenoind (PCS) circuit (current error)
74: Traction control system (TCS) circuit low
75: Transmission system voltage low
77: Primary cooling fan relay control circuit (not used with V08 option)
78: Secondary cooling fan relay control circuit
79: Trsnsmission fluid overtemp
81: Transmission 2-3 shift solenoid circuit
82: Transmission 1-2 shift solenoid circuit
84: Transmission 3-2 control solenoid circuit
85: Transmission TCC stuck "ON"
90: Transmission TCC solenoid circuit
95: Change oil lamp circuit
96: low oil lamp circuit
97: VSS output circuit

CCM Diagnostic trouble codes (-01)

20: RAP enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
21: RAP enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
22: DIL enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
23: DIL enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
24: Curtesy output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
25: Curtedy output circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
26: VES output circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
27: VES output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
28: VES tracking tracking error (circuit open, shorted to ground, or shorted to battery)
30: "PASS KEY FAULT" telltale circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
31: "PASS KEY FAULT" telltale circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
32: Fuel enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
33: Fuel enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
34: Heaflamp enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
35: Park lamp enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
36: DRL enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
37: DRL enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
38: EEPROM calibration error
39: EEPROM calibration id error
40: Delay pot circuit (circuit shorted to ground)
41: Dealy pot circuit (circuit open or shorted to battery)
42: Key resistor circuit (circuit shorted to ground)
43: Key resistor circuit (circuit open or shorted to battery)
44: Steering wheel sensor circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
45: Steering wheel sensor circuit (circuit open or shorted to battery)
46: CCM internal failure
47: Canadian select input error

HVAC Diagnostic trouble codes (-02)

01: Outside air tempurature sensor circuit (circuit open)
02: Outside air tempurature sensor circuit (circuit shorted)
03: In car air tempurature sensor circuit (circuit open)
04: In car air tempurature sensor circuit (circuit shorted)
05: Sun load sensor circuit (circuit open)
06: Sun load sensor circuit (circuit shorted)
10: Air mix motor circuit (circuit open)
11: Air mix motor circuit (circuit shorted)
26: Serial Data Communication (circuit shorted to battery, shorted to ground, or circuit open)
27: Invalid EEPROM detected

SIR Diagnostic trouble codes (-03)

15: Passenger deployment loop resistance high
16: Passenger deployment loop resistance low
17: Passenger deployment loop open
21: Driver deployment loop resistance high
22: Driver deployment loop resistance low
24: Deployment loop voltage low
25: Deployment loop shorted to ignition
26: Driver's deployment loop open
35: ADS (auxiliary discriminating sensor) missing/shorted to ground
36: ADS closed/shorted to voltage
51: Frontal crash detected
52: Crash data area full
61: Lamp circuit failure
62: Redundant lamp circuit failure
71: Internal SDM malfuntion

ABS/TC Diagnostic trouble codes (-04)

21: RF wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction
23: RF wheel speed sensor circuit continuity malfunction
25: LF wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction
27: LF wheel speed sensor circuit continuity malfunction
28: Wheel speed sensor circuit frequency malfunction
31: RR wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction
33: RR wheel speed sensor circuit continuity malfunction
35: LR wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction
37: LR wheel speed sensor circuit continuity malfunction
41: Right front valve solenoid malfunction
42: RH outlet valve solenoid malfunction
45: Left front valve solenoid malfunction
46: LF outlet valve solenoid malfunction
47: ASV prime line solenoid malfunction
48: USV pilot valve solenoid malfunction
51: Right rear valve solenoid malfunction
52: RR outlet valve solenoid malfunction
55: Left rear valve solenoid malfunction
56: LR outlet valve solenoid malfunction
57: TCC disable relay output malfunction
58: EBTCM internal adjuster assembly malfunction
61: Pump motor or pump motor relay malfunction
62: Traction disable switch used or RPM signal malfunction
63: valve solenoid relay malfunction
64: Throttle position signal malfunction
65: Adjuster assembly circuit malfunction
66: Adjuster assembly control malfunction
67: Throttle position sensor comparison malfunction
71: EBTCM internal malfunction
72: Serial data link malfunction
73: Spark retard monitoring malfunction
85: Low voltage.

sven914
08-04-09, 05:44 PM
But what are the three digit codes?





-01/ 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 128, 130, 131, 133, 143, 144, 145
-04/ 121, 162

ocmdiaz714
08-04-09, 07:26 PM
Ok so I bought a specific-use fuel cap on AutoZone and right after I installed it, I noticed that I didn't feel that push as if it the car wanted to accelerate whenever I hit 25mph. The Service Engine Soon and Traction Control lights also went off. I stopped by a Burger King for 10 minutes and when I got back in the car the lights came back on and again the car pushed whenever I hit 25mph. :(

thefleetwoodguy
08-04-09, 09:17 PM
But what are the three digit codes?

when you have a 1 in front of the code, it means its an old code thats been stored
when you get the code, push the off button that should erase the code
then see if it resets

thefleetwoodguy
08-04-09, 09:20 PM
Ok so I bought a specific-use fuel cap on AutoZone and right after I installed it, I noticed that I didn't feel that push as if it the car wanted to accelerate whenever I hit 25mph. The Service Engine Soon and Traction Control lights also went off. I stopped by a Burger King for 10 minutes and when I got back in the car the lights came back on and again the car pushed whenever I hit 25mph. :(
that could be the throttle position sensor
since you have that code showing,
as you know , thats just a best guess, might try changing that sensor, its an easy one

sven914
08-04-09, 09:22 PM
So 01(1)20 is 0120=Retained Accessory Power (RAP) enable circuit shorted to battery?

ocmdiaz714
08-05-09, 01:23 AM
If I was to buy a new EGR valve just to be on the safe side, would I need a new gasket as well?

ocmdiaz714
08-05-09, 04:20 AM
I ran the OBD codes and I got "0022= TPS low Voltage" and "0464= Throttle position signal malfunction." So I'm looking at buying a Duralast aftermarket one at the AutoZone. Can anybody tell me how to replace it? I also got the following codes if anybody here can let me know how to repair that.

0085= TCC solenoid problem after commanded OFF by PCM
0123= Delayed Interior Light (DIL) enable circuit open or shorted to ground
0145= Steering wheel sensor circuit open or shorted to battery

jayoldschool
08-05-09, 02:55 PM
Yes, you need the gasket. The EGR likely comes with one. Look it up on rockauto.com... it should tell you there.

jey
08-05-09, 04:00 PM
The orange Traction Control light being on indicates the system is disabled for some reason. I assume when you have TPS errors it automatically shuts off traction control since the traction control is linked to the throttle. Replacing the TPS is probably where I'd start too.

ocmdiaz714
08-05-09, 10:16 PM
The closest local Cadillac dealership to me has goodwrench for service and they don't do tune-ups. Where else could I go to get a full tune-up and around how much am I look at spending for a '94 FWB with 150k? Thanks.

pompste
08-05-09, 10:44 PM
The closest local Cadillac dealership to me has goodwrench for service and they don't do tune-ups. Where else could I go to get a full tune-up and around how much am I look at spending for a '94 FWB with 150k? Thanks.

I recently had a full,complete tune-up,at our local MEINEKE auto service center, on my 1995 Sedan Deville 4.9 liter.Your '94 Fleetwood should have the LT1 engine.
With labor and parts it was about $400----not bad considering the difficulty getting at the rear 4 plugs.It would have cost much more at the dealership.
I specified all AC/DELCO PARTS ONLY,since the engine was designed to run with these parts.
First i`ve heard of a Cadillac dealer not doing tune-ups for sure!

Check any Chevrolet dealership-----they can always get AC/DELCO parts.
It will always cost less at a smaller service center---but they sometimes have difficulty getting all AC/DELCO parts,depending on their parts sources.

Stingroo
08-06-09, 12:19 AM
And since your car has a Chevy motor, it'd be easy for them too. :)

I hope you get your car sorted soon. It's pretty bad when you have to have threads merged to cover all your issues. :(

sven914
08-06-09, 01:02 AM
What about taking it to a Chevrolet dealership. It's their engine. Just because Cadillac is on the hood, grill, trunk deck, C-pillars, seats, dash board, steering wheel, and seat belts, doesn't mean a Cadillac dealership is the only one that can service a Cadillac, especially being that Cadillac isn't under the hood.

When I was recently having vacuum issues, I called up a local Chevrolet/ Buick dealership to get a quote for fixing the routing. The service manager insisted that they couldn't work on a Cadillac because they didn't have the service literature for it. I did a little research on them and found out that they used to be a Chevy/ Buick/ Oldsmobile dealership (they originally only sold Oldsmobile), so called them and asked if they still had their service literature for Olds, and the manger told me he did. So I was able to get a quote for the work on an Oldsmobile 307 engine and not a Cadillac Brougham.

ocmdiaz714
08-06-09, 01:39 AM
What about taking it to a Chevrolet dealership. It's their engine. Just because Cadillac is on the hood, grill, trunk deck, C-pillars, seats, dash board, steering wheel, and seat belts, doesn't mean a Cadillac dealership is the only one that can service a Cadillac, especially being that Cadillac isn't under the hood.

When I was recently having vacuum issues, I called up a local Chevrolet/ Buick dealership to get a quote for fixing the routing. The service manager insisted that they couldn't work on a Cadillac because they didn't have the service literature for it. I did a little research on them and found out that they used to be a Chevy/ Buick/ Oldsmobile dealership (they originally only sold Oldsmobile), so called them and asked if they still had their service literature for Olds, and the manger told me he did. So I was able to get a quote for the work on an Oldsmobile 307 engine and not a Cadillac Brougham.

A GM car by Cadillac with a Chevrolet engine. :thumbsup:

sven914
08-06-09, 10:38 PM
I ran the OBD codes and I got "0022= TPS low Voltage" and "0464= Throttle position signal malfunction." So I'm looking at buying a Duralast aftermarket one at the AutoZone.

You should get you electronics at Advance Auto because they carry AC Delco, which is original equipment for GM. I've known a few people with GM cars, who have had store brand electronics fail after a few months/ thousand miles of use.

ocmdiaz714
08-07-09, 01:42 AM
You should get you electronics at Advance Auto because they carry AC Delco, which is original equipment for GM. I've known a few people with GM cars, who have had store brand electronics fail after a few months/ thousand miles of use.

Found it on eBay. It's only $5.46 more but I'm going to have to waiting on the shipment. :banghead: There's a used one on there for $16.00 total with shipping included, lol. I also have this coupon for a free "TranScan" at AAMCO so I'll be using that tomorrow, just to make sure that I need a new TPS.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-94-96-CADILLAC-FLEETWOOD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2e l1116QQhashZitem1e49e1a408QQitemZ130088543240QQptZ MotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

ocmdiaz714
08-07-09, 09:59 PM
The transmission fluid is brown, not black. Should I go with a pan drop service with a flush, power flush or drain? The dealer wants $285 for a flush and refill.

bicentennialcadillac
08-07-09, 11:04 PM
Find someone who will drop the pan and drain. The flushes do more harm than good IMO.

sven914
08-07-09, 11:20 PM
If the flush is performed properly, then it is beneficial to transmission performance and life. The flush gets all the crap out of the lines. You want them to flush it through the filter, and then replace the filter and fill with clean fluid. They should also cut open the old filter and check it for metal shavings.

I would take the car to an actually transmission shop (maybe not AAMCO); some place that isn't a national chain. Dealerships and chain stores have the latest in "time saving" equipment, that makes it possible for them to do a half-assed job (which as bicentennialcadillac mentioned, does more harm than good). Smaller transmission shop aren't as busy and most of the more reputable ones perform more detailed and overall better services (their entire reputation is banked on their quality of work).

ocmdiaz714
08-07-09, 11:43 PM
If the flush is performed properly, then it is beneficial to transmission performance and life. The flush gets all the crap out of the lines. You want them to flush it through the filter, and then replace the filter and fill with clean fluid. They should also cut open the old filter and check it for metal shavings.

I would take the car to an actually transmission shop (maybe not AAMCO); some place that isn't a national chain. Dealerships and chain stores have the latest in "time saving" equipment, that makes it possible for them to do a half-assed job (which as bicentennialcadillac mentioned, does more harm than good). Smaller transmission shop aren't as busy and most of the more reputable ones perform more detailed and overall better services (their entire reputation is banked on their quality of work).

The report that AAMCO did for me states that the transmission fluid has a "burnt odor." It doesn't smell burnt ot me and the color is pink/light brown. I'm going to search Google Maps for some good rated Transmission shops.

jayoldschool
08-07-09, 11:53 PM
This car just gets more scary with every post. Just FYI, if you take the car to transmission shops, they are going to want you to spend money ;)

Trans fluid that is brownish is bad news. That trans will be on borrowed time.

To get fresh fluid in there completely (including the torque converter, which doesn't drain when you drop the pan), here's what to do (and I would do a filter change after):
- disconnect the trans lines that go into the rad end tank
- slip some rubber lines over then end of each and secure with a zip tie
- one is feed and one is return
- on the feed: put it in a big bucket. This will be where all that brown fluid is going to get pumped
- on the return: put it in a 5L jug of ATF, and have another jug ready to go
- start the car. The trans will pump out the old fluid into your bucket, and pull in the fresh fluid. DO NOT LET IT SUCK IN AIR
- you are done when fresh, pink fluid starts to come out into the bucket
- shut the car off, reconnect the lines

sven914
08-08-09, 01:24 AM
^That's a backyard mechanic classic. I had to do a lab about it in college, on a Silverado.

You have to be real careful about not getting air and dirt into the lines. And you have to make sure you change the filter, because everything in the lines is getting pumped into it. And when you do the filter, you have to make sure you have enough ATF to refill the transmission (you could save some of it by putting a clean backing pan under it to catch the "new" fluid that will be drained when you drop the pan).

ocmdiaz714
08-08-09, 02:24 AM
This car just gets more scary with every post. Just FYI, if you take the car to transmission shops, they are going to want you to spend money ;)

Trans fluid that is brownish is bad news. That trans will be on borrowed time.

To get fresh fluid in there completely (including the torque converter, which doesn't drain when you drop the pan), here's what to do (and I would do a filter change after):
- disconnect the trans lines that go into the rad end tank
- slip some rubber lines over then end of each and secure with a zip tie
- one is feed and one is return
- on the feed: put it in a big bucket. This will be where all that brown fluid is going to get pumped
- on the return: put it in a 5L jug of ATF, and have another jug ready to go
- start the car. The trans will pump out the old fluid into your bucket, and pull in the fresh fluid. DO NOT LET IT SUCK IN AIR
- you are done when fresh, pink fluid starts to come out into the bucket
- shut the car off, reconnect the lines

I'm wondering if they really figured that out just by looking at the color of it and smelling it. Because I checked it out and it looked fine. More of a maroon/pink than brown and no burnt smell. I was informed by the previous owner that the transmission is new but I haven't been able to get him to send me the history on the car. I got your steps except for "slip some rubber lines over then end of each and secure with a zip tie." And how can I tell which is return and feed, or do I use either one?

EDIT: So after looking at this picture, mine looks like the one in the middle. I'll still be getting a transmission fluid change next weekend to be on the safe side along with a new VATS lock cylinder, EGR Valve and tune up.

http://i26.tinypic.com/20127ib.jpg

sven914
08-08-09, 03:37 PM
Last year I was having trouble with my transmission; It would feel like a manual transmission stuck in 2nd gear when I tried to stop (car kept trying to push forward). I took it to AAMCO and they wanted $80 to just drop the pan and maybe see what the problem is, and not even perform a service. I had their tech test drive the car and check the fluid; he came back and said that the fluid was completely burnt and the transmission needed to be entirely rebuilt. So I went to another chain garage, Waterloo Transmission, and had them test it, and they came back with the same thing; rebuild.

I really didn't think that the fluid was that burnt (color was a little darker than the one in the middle of the picture), so I went to a small, non-chain, transmission shop. They test drove the car, and confirmed the problem as not the transmission, but the torque converter clutch solenoid. So they did a full flush, inspected the filter for metal shavings (found none), and replaced the TCC solenoid. They reduced a $3500 repair bill down to $145, and fixed the problem.

ocmdiaz714
08-08-09, 03:47 PM
Last year I was having trouble with my transmission; It would feel like a manual transmission stuck in 2nd gear when I tried to stop (car kept trying to push forward). I took it to AAMCO and they wanted $80 to just drop the pan and maybe see what the problem is, and not even perform a service. I had their tech test drive the car and check the fluid; he came back and said that the fluid was completely burnt and the transmission needed to be entirely rebuilt. So I went to another chain garage, Waterloo Transmission, and had them test it, and they came back with the same thing; rebuild.

I really didn't think that the fluid was that burnt (color was a little darker than the one in the middle of the picture), so I went to a small, non-chain, transmission shop. They test drove the car, and confirmed the problem as not the transmission, but the torque converter clutch solenoid. So they did a full flush, inspected the filter for metal shavings (found none), and replaced the TCC solenoid. They reduced a $3500 repair bill down to $145, and fixed the problem.

Like a moms & pops shop and auto repair/smog check place. (non-chain)

sven914
08-08-09, 05:06 PM
Yeah. But check their walls for awards from and memberships to organization like ASE, the Automotive Service Association (ASA), the BBB, and the Automatic Transmission Rebuilder's Association (ATRA). Also look for the one that has been around the longest and with the most proven track record.

ocmdiaz714
08-08-09, 10:31 PM
I ran the OBD codes and I got "0022= TPS low Voltage" and "0464= Throttle position signal malfunction." So I'm looking at buying a Duralast aftermarket one at the AutoZone. Can anybody tell me how to replace it? I also got the following codes if anybody here can let me know how to repair that.

0085= TCC solenoid problem after commanded OFF by PCM
0123= Delayed Interior Light (DIL) enable circuit open or shorted to ground
0145= Steering wheel sensor circuit open or shorted to battery

What is the TCC solenoid? I've tried searching for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid but have had no luck. Is this it?
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=24227792&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

jayoldschool
08-08-09, 10:42 PM
READ THIS (http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=227226)

ocmdiaz714
08-08-09, 10:45 PM
READ THIS (http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=227226)

THIS IS THE TCC SOLENOID THAT IS CREATING THE OBD ERROR? (http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=24227792&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=)

ocmdiaz714
08-10-09, 12:00 AM
Today I took the car the dollar car wash to wash the engine before taking it to have the TPS replaced. I noticed that a hose which connects to the AC filter was lose so I connected it back up. The check engine light went off after driving home, yet the traction control remained on. I just checked right now and both lights are now off. I'm some what sure that they will be back on tomorrow. I'll be driving it tomorrow to check if the TPS is still required and will probably get a wheel alignment along with getting the tires balanced.

jayoldschool
08-10-09, 01:29 AM
I noticed that a hose which connects to the AC filter was lose so I connected it back up

Do you mean AIR FILTER? If so, YES, this will cause a CEL!

ocmdiaz714
08-10-09, 02:11 AM
Do you mean AIR FILTER? If so, YES, this will cause a CEL!

I don't know anything about the LT1. I tried to replace the air filter and couldn't find where it went. This is the hose that was lose:

http://i28.tinypic.com/29vyvls.png

CaddyshackCadillac
08-10-09, 02:24 AM
your air filter i believe is the box to the right of that hose

sven914
08-10-09, 02:48 AM
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thing think the LT1 is a Mass Air Flow (MAF) engine which is intolerable to vacuum leaks (unlike the older Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] engines).

Allot of cars run the hose for the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system right off of the air filter box. The PCV system is a controlled vacuum leak, regulated by the PCV valve, usually located on one of the valve covers. If that hose to the PCV system comes off, then there is more of a vacuum leak that isn't controllable, and the engine runs horrible, especially if it is a MAF engine.

Stingroo
08-10-09, 03:11 AM
Sven you are correct, the LT1 is a MAF engine.

[/2 cents]

And yes, the air filter is under that box to the right of where you circled. If I remember right, there are a few little clips that hold it on. (My box was in the trunk of my car, not actually on it like it should have been, so I can't really say if it's clips or screws)

ocmdiaz714
08-10-09, 04:02 AM
This is where the air filter is? What's with the bigger box on the left side?

http://i32.tinypic.com/dh8hv5.png

sven914
08-10-09, 01:55 PM
Thats where the air filter is, and it looks like from the picture that it is held closed by screws.

ocmdiaz714
08-10-09, 03:26 PM
Today both the traction control and CEL light went off and the acceleration seemed to have gone away. I still get the trouble codes though. The car also has a very rough idle at park. I hope it's nothing that a tune-up can't fix.

ocmdiaz714
08-10-09, 06:41 PM
How many o2 sensors does the 94 FWB have?

jayoldschool
08-10-09, 08:20 PM
Two. One in each exhaust pipe before each cat.

Please... go buy a manual. You are going to need one. Even the cheap Haynes one will help...

Stingroo
08-10-09, 08:56 PM
Get a FSM off eBay. I found one for my 94 for $25, I haven't ordered it yet, but I plan to. Get one while they're there.

jayoldschool
08-10-09, 09:25 PM
That is a GREAT price on an FSM if it includes all the volumes and the update!

Stingroo
08-10-09, 09:40 PM
It appeared to be the whole book. Easily 6 or more inches thick from looking at the picture...

Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350238398364&category=34212&_trksid=p4340.m215&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BC%252BS%252BIA%2 6itu%3DIT%252BUA%252BUS-BWR%252BUCI%252BUCC%26otn%3D12%26ps%3D33

The first one I found has ended, but that one's $23.

ocmdiaz714
08-11-09, 12:52 AM
Ok so the lights were off and car was running fine (other than the rough idle) just yesterday but today it got back to the way it was and even worse as it won't go any faster than 50mph. The check engine light comes on and off.

sven914
08-11-09, 02:32 AM
I still get the trouble codes though. The car also has a very rough idle at park.

The codes won't automatically clear. Clear the codes by hitting the OFF button while each code is displayed and then drive the car for a day or two. When you recheck the codes, you will be able to see which ones are gone, the ones that are still there, and any new ones that have come up. That should give you a place to start looking for the next issue (and possibility the root cause off your complaint).

ocmdiaz714
08-11-09, 09:45 PM
how many catalytic converters does the '94 FWB have?

Stingroo
08-11-09, 10:07 PM
Two.

jayoldschool
08-11-09, 10:11 PM
how many catalytic converters does the '94 FWB have?

Oh, COME ON! Give me a break! Are we being Punk'd? Do some research on your car. We've spent 8 pages trying to help, and you don't even read the answers we give you. For god's sake, you didn't even know where your air filter is! If you are going to work on your car, you need a little bit of knowledge...

I wrote this YESTERDAY for you:


Two. One in each exhaust pipe before each cat.

Please... go buy a manual. You are going to need one. Even the cheap Haynes one will help...

So, if you had read that, you would already have your answer.

sven914
08-11-09, 11:03 PM
You just got :owned:

ocmdiaz714
08-11-09, 11:03 PM
Oh, COME ON! Give me a break! Are we being Punk'd? Do some research on your car. We've spent 8 pages trying to help, and you don't even read the answers we give you. For god's sake, you didn't even know where your air filter is! If you are going to work on your car, you need a little bit of knowledge...

I wrote this YESTERDAY for you:



So, if you had read that, you would already have your answer.

I bought the manual, it's on it's way. Why do you have to reply and make it longer if you won't even help. :suspense:

jayoldschool
08-11-09, 11:35 PM
Why do you have to reply and make it longer if you won't even help.

I did help. You just didn't care to accept the help.

Here's a little more help... this thread is done. You can still read it, though ;)