07-21-04, 10:43 PM
Does, anyone know the clock time for a oil pan gasket change on a 95 Northstar in a SLS? Is there any special concerns in changing this, or are there any tricks I should know before I start? Looks straight forward with a few fun bolts to reach.
Clock time for the gasket I would guess is about 2hrs. Its the other 15 that get you with the engine removal to reach those hard to reach bolts. I also have lower oil manifold leak, looks like pan but it is a 1/4" plate that is between the pan and the lower case half and has pressure in it thats why it leaks only when running.
Looks straight forward with a few fun bolts to reach.
I bought my 95 SLS a couple months ago. It was on a car lot for $1900, when I asked the guy what was wrong with it he just replied.."Oil pan leaks". Having been a mechanic for 20 yrs, I thought...how hard could it be to fix? Thats when I got it home and started checking it out, then found out that you have to pull the cradle, engine and transaxle to get the pan off, or at the very least, cradle and transaxle. After reading through numerous posts about it on this site I figured that it's going to take me a couple of days to do it. Small price to pay considering I really got a great deal on this car.
I'm taking a week off next month to pull the powertrain, fix the leak and replace the heater box which is disenegrating due to years of high heat and replace all the wiring harness loom as well as some serious cleaning and degreasing the underside of the car.
07-25-04, 02:14 AM
Wow! Thanks for the advice. After reading that and looking at it again, the leak isn't that bad yet, and I can wipe up a few drops on the garage floor.
You are correct in that the oil pan cannot be removed with the engine in the car.
Overtightening the bolts will have little effect, the seal is silicone bead pressed in a groove. When tightened it is almost entirely compressed, over tightening will just strip bolts.
I found that most of my previous leaks, in this area, was oil seeping down the oil pan bolt threads. I have had very good results doing the following.
1. Drain the oil.
2. Remove several oil pan bolts (every other one).
3. Using spray brake cleaner, spray the area to flush off all traces of oil.
4. Spray the holes to flush out all oil residues.
5. Wait a few minutes and spray the holes again.
6. Use the spray cleaner to thoroughly clean the bolts.
The point here is to have both the holes and bolts DRY and clean of any oil residue.
7. Using Plumbers Pipe Thread Compound from the plastic jar, apply a coating to the bolt and screw it back into the hole. To judge the correct amount, when the bolt is tightened there should be a small amount left around the bolt head. Leave this exuded amount in place. Wipe off at a later date if desired.
Repeat until all of the bolts and holes have been cleaned and the coated bolts replaced.
Wait at least overnight (preferably 24 hours) then refill with oil.
I know there other automotive thread sealants, but I have used this method on several hard to seal locations and have had very good results.
Good luck, George