: Escalade overheats when parked for a while



Macfreestyle
07-20-09, 12:19 PM
First time this has happened 2 weeks ago my daughter was playing softball here in Dallas TX temp outside was around 103 I kept my kids in the Lade for about 20 or 30 minutes and after 30 minutes I had a check cooling level error msg and the temp gauge was on red so I decided to run the truck around the parking and sure enought it came back down to normal temp I checked coolant was full. Has anyone had this happened before any suggustions?

02 Escalade 110000 miles on it

Thanks

sfv41901
07-20-09, 12:39 PM
If the temp dropped when you drove around, then it sounds like the problem is with your fan. If you have a mechanical fan, then it might be your fan clutch. If you have electric fans, it could be the temp switch for the fans, a bad relay, blown fuse.

The reason I say its your fan is because the fan pulls air through the rad to help cool the water. If the fan isnt working, the air isnt being pulled through the rad, thus not cooling the water causing the engine to over heat.

luxurylife33
07-20-09, 02:07 PM
I can almost guarantee you its the thermostat. The first sign of a sticky thermostat is overheating while parked since the flow of coolant is at its lowest. When your driving the pressure basically forces open the thermostat. Its less than $10 with a gasket and a 20 minute job, try that and report your results. Dont put it off too long because its only going to get worse and get stuck closed and will overheat while your driving.

And although the fan situation mentioned above is plausible, thermostats are more of a common problem.

Silver04
07-21-09, 12:12 PM
Did the fans kick on while you were parked?

zerocarpileup
07-21-09, 12:29 PM
Did the fans kick on while you were parked?

i dont think he has electric fans on his 02, should be all time belt driven. my money is on the fan clutch, but id start at the cheaper thermostat.....

sfv41901
07-21-09, 01:05 PM
:hmm::hmm::hmm:

I'm still gonna say its the fan clutch only because I had this exact same problem on my M3. It would only start to over heat in stop & go traffic. Once I was moving, the temp would drop back down. I ended up going through the entire cooling system & everything was working fine. When I checked the fan clutch, there was no resistance....it just spun freely. Even though this happened on a BMW, all cooling systems are the same. Rad, fan, pump & thermostat

But while your in there, just change the thermo. Its cheap & quick.

SUX2BU
07-22-09, 10:01 AM
I can almost guarantee you its the thermostat. The first sign of a sticky thermostat is overheating while parked since the flow of coolant is at its lowest. When your driving the pressure basically forces open the thermostat. Its less than $10 with a gasket and a 20 minute job, try that and report your results. Dont put it off too long because its only going to get worse and get stuck closed and will overheat while your driving.

And although the fan situation mentioned above is plausible, thermostats are more of a common problem.

This isn't an 05+ Escalade or and old school SBC motor. The thermostat's are part of the housing. These cost about $20.
To the original poster I live in Dalllas too and work on these motors all the time. I have my stock clutch fan and stock thermostat at home that i took off when i went to electric fans and a 160* thermostat. I could get you all fixed up dirt cheap.

zerocarpileup
07-22-09, 10:42 AM
Well if you do end up changing you fan clutch, water pump or convert to electric fans,etc.... i hope you post some pics.I'm about to do my fan clutch and water pump and it would be great reference and a great write up.

Mac21
08-29-09, 06:39 PM
Well decided to go the lazy route and got my father in law to change the Radiator and Fan Clutch now the SUV temo is normal but the transmission temp still gove alittle over 1/2 on the gauge.


What else do you guys think it could be now?

FYI I paid total 400 for clutch radiatir and labor:bouncy:

zerocarpileup
08-29-09, 07:36 PM
I had the same problem when i changed out my fan clutch, so it was that i needed to install the super heavy duty fan clutch. I had initially bought the regular heavy duty, but apparently that didnt do the job. So as soon as i switched to the super heavy duty, it was all good. the super heavy duty looks just like the OEM, really thick. The first one i got was really thin.

luxurylife33
08-29-09, 09:39 PM
well the tranny fluid is also cooled through the radiator.... the bottom is reserved for the tranny fluid .... maybe he got you the 5.3L radiator? instead of the 6.0?

sfv41901
08-29-09, 11:38 PM
Was the problem ever figured out???

rwalkerfla
08-31-09, 04:54 PM
check it out, i had the same problem. I was driving and the engine overheated, loud beeping noises inside the car. So, this guy said check to see if you can spin the fan freely, and it keeps spinning , which it did, and this means the fan clutch has gone bad. Its suppose to be hard to turn, not keep spinning. So i replaced the fan clutch and no more overheating while driving.

A month later, i was parked with a girl talking in the car for over 30 minutes, well we were more than talking, then the engine overheated while parked and on. A mechanic looked at it and said my thermostat was stuck. So i replaced it. This was this past saturday.

Now, since he replaced my thermostast, my air condition is blowing out hot air, no cold air, just air that feels like straight heat!

I had this prob before, and my o ring was leaking on my compressor, we fixed that, and my air was ice cold, now i am back to hot air because i needed my thermostat replaced. Why WHY WHY!

hcubed
09-01-09, 08:29 AM
Without getting technical, here's a bit of information to correct a statement in an earlier post on this thread.
While you are driving, the thermostat is not basically forced open. Water pump pressure has nothing to do with it. ::bigroll:

It is opened when the water temperature increases to the pre-established set point. For example, a 190 themostat opens when the water temperature arrivess at 190, plus or minus the built in tolerance.

The thermostats purpose is to maintain a constant engine operating temperature.

A small pellet of a special wax inside a cylinder melts and expands significantly when the temperature is raised to the set point, pushing a rod out of the cylinder opening the valve. Spring pressure closes it after the engine, water and wax cools below the set point.

Here's the age old method for testing a thermostat:
Place it in a pan of water on the stove, and turn the burner on. When the water temperature arrives at the correct temperature, a good thermostat will open. Obviously, no pressure was necessary to force it open. Use a thermometer to check the opeening temperature....the thermostat might be a good one, and not need replacement.
Real old school knowledge.
There are dual action, and single action thermostats. Always use the correct type specific to your engine.