: My pulley melted

07-20-09, 06:48 AM
Today I got to work and smelled someting like burning plastic. Didn't think much of at first since I work on a construction site. When I went to lunch my car's coolant temp hit 250 degrees. After I let the car cool down and got back to the job site I checked ton see what was wrong. The pulley next to teh tensioner for the water pump melted and the belt came off. What gets me though is the belt still looks really good. I need to know what that pulley is called. I can't seem to find a name for it. Also how hard would it be to change it? it doesn't look as bad of a job as I originally thought, but I've had jobs like that before that took all day.

07-20-09, 08:01 AM
You just need the puller/installer tool and it is pretty much like removing a power steering pump pulley.
Check the water pump to see if it locked up.
If it did it stopped the belt and melted the pulley.

07-20-09, 10:27 AM
It's the water pump drive pulley. It is attached directly to the intake cam. It does not have a bearing so follow Ewill's advice. Something else caused the problem. Maybe the tensioner pulley.

07-20-09, 02:44 PM
Both the tensioner pulley and the water pump spin. So I don't think any of them locked up. What I think happened is that the tensioner pulley and drive pulley were rubber due to too small of a belt. I'm still going to check everything out though. Thanks for the quick replies.

07-20-09, 06:31 PM
I can't seem to find the drive pulley anywhere. Does anyone have a part number? I think I might have found one on Jegs.com, but I'm not sure. Also I came across a pretty detailed right up of a northstar rebuild on the fiero forums.

07-20-09, 06:39 PM
Jeg's won't have the main (cam driven)(snout on the intake cam in the diagram) water pump pulley. Dealer only. One of the usual GM parts online sites posted here.

Needs a claw puller with tapered center pin and a special installer or some clever work with lubricated bolt and washers.

Northstar rebuilds and mod installations for Fieros and sand rails bear absolutely no resemblance to a FWD Seville/Deville/Eldorado engine.

07-20-09, 08:37 PM
Make sure the water pump pulley spins smoothly and is quiet, try to move the pulley laterally and see if it will move. You could have a part time bearing, part time brake in there.
Those cam pulleys don't melt for no reason.
I'd hate to see you do that work and have it happen again.

Tommy Deville
07-27-09, 09:11 AM
That happened to me onuce, I replaced both pullys & the belt. It's an out of no where type of thing.

Sonny's DEville
08-09-09, 03:00 PM
This just happened to me yesterday. Both the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley both broke. The belt is in bad shape too. I can't seem to find these parts anywhere... Can someone direct me to where I can get the 2 pulleys and the belt? Thanks

08-09-09, 03:29 PM
Belt and tensioner assembly: www.rockauto.com. Drive pulley or all 3: www.gmotors.com (Palm Chevy/Cadillac, Gainesville, FL), www.gmpartsdirect.com (Flow Chevy/Cadillac, Winston-Salem, NC) or Luke in Parts at Lindsay Cadillac, over there >>>>>>

Sonny's DEville
08-11-09, 09:46 PM
I can't seem to locate the parts from those websites...

08-12-09, 01:34 PM
Probably because the base 1995 DeVille is listed as having a 4.9L engine, not a 4.6. The 4.6 water pump arrangement bears no resemblance to a 4.9.

08-12-09, 07:09 PM
Go to gmpartsdirect, send customer service an e-mail with your VIN# and the parts you need and they will reply with part#s and costs. A very good source, very good people, if you are not in a great hurry - otherwise go direct to the dealer. I got my water pump drive pulley (actually labeled for power steering) remover/installer at Harbor Freight for $10 and it worked great.

08-19-09, 12:44 AM
I've been trying to figure this out for some time now without pulling the water pump. The water pump pulley won't move. How could I fix it. The pump is a year old. Ewill3rd what do you mean by a part time break? Is there something I should look for or do I have to pull the water pump?

08-19-09, 06:55 AM
What I meant was sometimes when the bearings start to go it will spin sometimes and lock up sometimes.
Meaning... it could have stopped spinning to melt the pulleys but then started rotating again to make you think it was okay.

If the belt is off and you cannot rotate the water pump it is locked up. You need to replace it.
On the N* you need a special socket that you can buy, borrow, or rent from almost any parts store.

08-16-11, 01:30 PM
I'm a bit late to the thread but need to know more. Everything is clear up to installing the new drive pulley. A puller takes it off, what puts it back on

08-16-11, 01:33 PM
Needing one last bit of info: What's the proper way to install a new drive pulley? I used a puller to remove it...

08-16-11, 01:34 PM
I'm a bit late to the thread but need to know more. Everything is clear up to installing the new drive pulley. A puller takes it off, what puts it back on

The pulley installer that should(have?) come with the pulley remover.

08-16-11, 03:17 PM
Use a proper sized/length Grade 5 or 8 metric bolt and a stack of greased washers and nut. Offer up the pulley, and thread the bolt, with nut and washers run up the threads, into the cam snout and carefully begin pushing the pulley onto the cam with the nut. It will take some starts and stops along with a few more washers, but it sure beats the $120 GM tool. Press the pulley hub flush with the face of the cam snout.