: Sucessful Northstar head gasket repair in a bottle



twinbopilot
07-16-09, 12:03 PM
Greetings to all my fellow Cadillac owners. I've been lurking on this forum for some time and as they say in the bittorrent world, its time to seed and not just leech! So I'm trying to give back a little something information-wise.

Seriously, I wanted to report a positive experience with a new product. I have absolutely no relationship to the manufacturer. Here goes:

I own a 1999 Deville Concours with 146,000 miles. It was overheating within 10-15 minutes of start-up (I'm in Texas and the temps right now are 100+). It would actually blow the coolant out the overflow tube on the expansion tank when it got hot enough. Also, I could smell exhaust gases in the coolant. I know there is a $50 test for this but I just left the cap off before it got too hot and every once in a while a bubble would come to the surface. By putting my nose in the opening and sniffing this bubble (be careful if you do this), it was obvious there were exhaust gases in my cooling system which means the dreaded head gasket leak was present.

Now I can tell you I am not a believer in miracle cures. I can already see the replies that will berate me for not "fixing it right". With respect, not everyone has $2500-$4000 to do it "correctly". I personally lost my job as a pilot with a major airline in December, so the belt is already very tight at my house!

Enter a product from K&W called K&W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block Repair. It costs $20 but offers twice your money back if not satisfied. Do they actually refund you $40? I have no idea as I didn't request a refund - read on:

The product claims to use "nanotechnology" which involves atom-sized particles. It does not have the coppery sludge in it that Barrs head gasket repair (and most of them) use. It is a pure liquid with some brown slimy stuff in it that looks like it came out of your nose (hows that for a technical description?).

I followed the instructions on the bottle to the letter. Be advised you will have to drain your cooling system and flush it with water prior to using this product. They recommend pulling the plugs and checking them for orange/red color from coolant then leaving this plug (or plugs) out during the treatment. I did this but all the plugs looked pretty much the same except 3 or 4 had a grey powdery build up on them which looked like oil if you go by the spark plug diagnosis pictures you can see many places online. So I just cleaned them and re-installed all 8 prior to the treatment.

The treatment procedure has you idle the car for 30 minutes with pure water and the K&W in it then drain the system for a 12 hour drying period. I woke up the next morning with great anticipation - would it work or was my time and money wasted?

I re-installed the thermostat (they have you remove it during the treatment) and refilled the system with Dex-Con and water. Now time to put it to the test. As I started the engine, the car displayed the outside temp. as 104 degrees. I had four one gallon jugs of water in the trunk that I could use to limp home with in case the coolant spewed out the overflow again.

Turns out they weren't needed! I first let the car idle in the driveway with the a/c on. Previously the car would overheat within 10-15 minutes even if it was just sitting idling (Yes the fans work fine). After 30 minutes, no leaks and no overheating, so it was time for a test drive. I began by driving around the local surface streets at 40-45 mph with a/c on of course. To my amazement, after 20 minutes the temp needle never wavered from the 12:00, or middle position. Hmmm, could this have actually worked? My next test was on the highway, driving 65-80 mph, for 30 minutes. Once again, no movement on the temp gauge! I said a small prayer of thanks and headed home with a BIG grin on my face.

Now its been a few days and lots of miles but the car still runs great with no overheating.

YMMV, but I highly recommend K&W Nanotechnology for N* engines with leaky head gaskets.

Please reply with any additional questions you may have as I'm certain I didn't cover everything here.

Thanks and enjoy those Cadillacs!

CaddyshackCadillac
07-16-09, 12:34 PM
:preach:jinx just kidding i hope you update this in a month and again in 3 to 6 months could be one hell of a find

rlphbgby
07-16-09, 12:48 PM
:preach:jinx just kidding i hope you update this in a month and again in 3 to 6 months could be one hell of a find

Yes I to would like you to do updates and anyone else who is welling to try this stuff out do updates. I believe You cant fix vehicles properly with anything from a can. :cookoo:If this is for real GREAT FIND :cheer:

ps. thanks for becoming a seeder

twinbopilot
07-16-09, 12:49 PM
:thumbsup: Ok, will do! Good bad or indifferent, I will report back what happens over time. Now on to replacing the front struts with a pair from Arnott. Not to redirect the thread but I'm getting a bad bottoming out on the right front when I hit a bump AND I'm getting the "SERV STABILTY SYS" message. I assume these to be related. But hey, I wasn't gonna worry about the suspension until I knew the engine would run without overheating!

Ranger
07-16-09, 05:46 PM
I hate to burst your bubble pilot, but we've been down this road before. I can assure you that the fix is temporary. What happens , as you nay know if you've been lurking long enough, is that the head bolt threads pull and no miracle in a bottle can fix that. Hope it buys you the time you need, but you might want to wait on those struts till you see the outcome unless you are going to fix the head gasket the correct way later.

Sorry to hear about your job. This industry sucks! 42 years and counting. I can remember when it was fun, secure and promising.

MisterBlue
07-16-09, 05:51 PM
I wish you all the luck in the world, but feel that your fix is only temporary. I experienced very similar results with the factory "Seal-Tabs". I used only one, and the problem went away for over a month. But, all it took was a couple of full-throttle takeoffs (with my newfound courage), and the problem reappeared. Each time, I used another tab, and it was fine until I got into it a few times. Then the tell tale "miss" for a few seconds at startup told me things were going sour. On the bright side, it did let me drive the car for another 6 months, until I could find a good replacement vehicle.

Full throttle exercising (the kind the recommended occasionally for Northstars) seriously increases pressure and strain in the combustion chamber, while tooling down the road at a steady 70-80 mph is about as strenuous for a car engine as you sitting in your easy chair and watching TV.

I'mm pullin' for 'ya, but I'm skeptical of anything more than temporary success.

Ranger
07-16-09, 06:08 PM
The factory sealant tabs where never intended to fix or prevent a head gasket failure.

Playdrv4me
07-16-09, 07:04 PM
Your headbolts are easing their way out of the block. It doesn't take rocket science to determine the larger the void the more coolant gets into the combustion process. Make that void large enough and nothing in a bottle is going to save it. It will buy you some time though.

tateos
07-16-09, 07:38 PM
No sense in telling you this fix won't work for long - everyone else already told you that. Thank you for the well written and detailed post. I wish you the best of luck, and do please keep us all updated.

Destroyer
07-16-09, 11:32 PM
Greetings to all my fellow Cadillac owners. I've been lurking on this forum for some time and as they say in the bittorrent world, its time to seed and not just leech! So I'm trying to give back a little something information-wise.

Seriously, I wanted to report a positive experience with a new product. I have absolutely no relationship to the manufacturer. Here goes:

I own a 1999 Deville Concours with 146,000 miles. It was overheating within 10-15 minutes of start-up (I'm in Texas and the temps right now are 100+). It would actually blow the coolant out the overflow tube on the expansion tank when it got hot enough. Also, I could smell exhaust gases in the coolant. I know there is a $50 test for this but I just left the cap off before it got too hot and every once in a while a bubble would come to the surface. By putting my nose in the opening and sniffing this bubble (be careful if you do this), it was obvious there were exhaust gases in my cooling system which means the dreaded head gasket leak was present.

Now I can tell you I am not a believer in miracle cures. I can already see the replies that will berate me for not "fixing it right". With respect, not everyone has $2500-$4000 to do it "correctly". I personally lost my job as a pilot with a major airline in December, so the belt is already very tight at my house!

Enter a product from K&W called K&W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block Repair. It costs $20 but offers twice your money back if not satisfied. Do they actually refund you $40? I have no idea as I didn't request a refund - read on:

The product claims to use "nanotechnology" which involves atom-sized particles. It does not have the coppery sludge in it that Barrs head gasket repair (and most of them) use. It is a pure liquid with some brown slimy stuff in it that looks like it came out of your nose (hows that for a technical description?).

I followed the instructions on the bottle to the letter. Be advised you will have to drain your cooling system and flush it with water prior to using this product. They recommend pulling the plugs and checking them for orange/red color from coolant then leaving this plug (or plugs) out during the treatment. I did this but all the plugs looked pretty much the same except 3 or 4 had a grey powdery build up on them which looked like oil if you go by the spark plug diagnosis pictures you can see many places online. So I just cleaned them and re-installed all 8 prior to the treatment.

The treatment procedure has you idle the car for 30 minutes with pure water and the K&W in it then drain the system for a 12 hour drying period. I woke up the next morning with great anticipation - would it work or was my time and money wasted?

I re-installed the thermostat (they have you remove it during the treatment) and refilled the system with Dex-Con and water. Now time to put it to the test. As I started the engine, the car displayed the outside temp. as 104 degrees. I had four one gallon jugs of water in the trunk that I could use to limp home with in case the coolant spewed out the overflow again.

Turns out they weren't needed! I first let the car idle in the driveway with the a/c on. Previously the car would overheat within 10-15 minutes even if it was just sitting idling (Yes the fans work fine). After 30 minutes, no leaks and no overheating, so it was time for a test drive. I began by driving around the local surface streets at 40-45 mph with a/c on of course. To my amazement, after 20 minutes the temp needle never wavered from the 12:00, or middle position. Hmmm, could this have actually worked? My next test was on the highway, driving 65-80 mph, for 30 minutes. Once again, no movement on the temp gauge! I said a small prayer of thanks and headed home with a BIG grin on my face.

Now its been a few days and lots of miles but the car still runs great with no overheating.

YMMV, but I highly recommend K&W Nanotechnology for N* engines with leaky head gaskets.

Please reply with any additional questions you may have as I'm certain I didn't cover everything here.

Thanks and enjoy those Cadillacs!You have struck gold. Thank you for this informative post. No doubt that countless numbers of N* owners will be very happy to hear the "cure in the bottle" does indeed exist. Wish you were around with this miracle cure crap a year and a half ago dammnit.

EDIT: My post is pure sarcasm. You are sent hear from K&W (thought they made root beer) or are a member of the K&W team that makes this bullshit "miracle in a bottle" crap. :histeric::histeric:

twinbopilot
07-20-09, 10:44 PM
:lies: HA HA HA

I have no connection whatsoever with K&W. I'm just a plain old Cadillac owner. I did notice some guys on one of the other Cadillac forum sites are also having success with this product. Google if you are interested - I wouldn't want to link to the "competition". :shhh:

I'm not saying this repair is going to last forever, but it made an un-drivable car drivable again. Even if it only lasts a few months, I'm satisfied. Gives me time to figure out my next move car-wise.

I will continue to post updates every so often. If anyone else tries it, let us know your results.

STSS
07-21-09, 09:37 AM
I just hope you inform the next owner...

97EldoCoupe
07-21-09, 06:52 PM
I haven't read this whole thread yet. But believe me, any fix in a bottle will cause a lot of headaches for the repair man that you will eventually be taking the car to. I spend a lot of time cleaning that crap out of the coolant passages /water jackets on a lot of cars. It sometimes does more harm than good.

I know that everyone does this to hopefully "buy time" and such. I never tried this on my Eldo when I first bought it and had coolant loss problems. Nor was I going to because I just don't believe you can fix things with "miracle solutions". Fix it once. Fix it right. End of problem. Enjoy your Cadillac.

The network of Northstar repair shops across North America is starting to form. A reasonably cost-effective, permanent solution is right around the corner. I already have 10+ shops interested and waiting to be put on the list, all have done the stud conversion at least once and have had great success.

I have a car in the shop from Chicago right now. So people love their Caddys enough to drive half a day and spend around 2 grand to keep them on the road. I'm really glad people still have this much pride in Cadillacs.

I may be opening another shop in Canada in the next few months that people in North Dakota and Minnesota will have easy access to.

But still, if it's your daily driver, and you depend on it, I understand. Best of luck to anyone who tries "Liquid Miracles". Some of the time it may work, for a while.

STSS
07-21-09, 07:07 PM
Fix it once. Fix it right.

Fix it with STUDS!!!:bows::burn::cloud9:

chris400
07-22-09, 09:20 PM
I tried blue devil sealant in my 98 deville ,with 139000 miles on it, about a month ago and i drive 50 miles to work every day city and hwy and no overheating{197-205} and loss of coolant. so far ?

parts68
07-26-09, 12:22 AM
trying it as I type
#3 cylinder has 75# so I seriously doubt it will work.
Just an FYI In mot counting on a permanent fix;
have a new motor ready when time will allow.

twinbopilot
07-26-09, 10:49 PM
Parts68 - How did it turn out?

twinbopilot
08-07-09, 01:44 PM
1000+ miles and still no overheating:cool:

2004DTS
08-07-09, 02:13 PM
Congrats...I hope it lasts for you. I had a bad leak on my 90 Brougham and used a few things off the shelf including what you used...no luck. I hope yours is an exception

K STS
09-28-09, 04:15 PM
still holding?

83CADMAN
09-28-09, 05:04 PM
I tried blue devil sealant in my 98 deville ,with 139000 miles on it, about a month ago and i drive 50 miles to work every day city and hwy and no overheating{197-205} and loss of coolant. so far ?

Blue Devil says right on the label "NOT RECOMENDED FOR NORTHSTAR ENGENS"

mlprus
09-28-09, 09:38 PM
I tried that nanocrapology on a cracked Ford Model A block and it did nothing. Waste of time. They did however give me double my money back!

97EldoCoupe
09-28-09, 09:45 PM
If these miracle liquids worked all that well, car companies would just bolt the heads to the blocks without gaskets and pour that crap in from the factory. It would save them a load of money. Gaskets are in the car for a reason and when they need to be replaced, there simply is no shortcut that can be taken.

mlprus
09-28-09, 10:53 PM
OK. Mr. Coupe. Excuse my ignorance, but just out of curiousity, why does the engine have to be pulled in order to put studs in?

Submariner409
09-29-09, 08:23 AM
Because there's NO room to work, especially on the rear bank of cylinders. You might get the head off, might be able to do the machining and drop in the studs, but you'll never get that rear head back on. No way can you rotate the engine enough to get rear head clearance.

twinbopilot
09-29-09, 11:29 PM
3000+ miles later the engine started to overheat again as I was driving on the freeway. Oh no, I thought, here we go again, the fix didn't last after all. Towed the car back to the house and upon further inspection, the tensioner pulley for the water pump had failed! It wasn't the head gaskets! So I replaced the tensioner (very easy job - thanks to GM for a good design) and all is well again. So yes, the "Nanotechnology fix in a bottle" is still working....

K STS
09-30-09, 10:33 AM
sweet.

mlprus
09-30-09, 03:11 PM
Because there's NO room to work, especially on the rear bank of cylinders. You might get the head off, might be able to do the machining and drop in the studs, but you'll never get that rear head back on. No way can you rotate the engine enough to get rear head clearance.

Makes sense.

KEMETPHARAOH
10-30-09, 02:29 PM
how is your car doing?

chacenbra
10-30-09, 04:32 PM
The BS factor in this thread is too much for me to handle... :thepan:

twinbopilot
10-31-09, 07:34 PM
Well as of 10-31-09 I've put over 4000 miles on it with no gasket issues. At first I was afraid to floor it thinking it might cause another failure, but now I drive it however I want with no fear. Even if it fails on me today, I'm happy with the product. It saved me a ton of money. :worship:

tateos
11-04-09, 11:28 AM
A-mazing!

MrEldo97
11-04-09, 12:20 PM
Wait until the head bolts pull out of the block. THAT is the real problem and not the gaskets...

coaster
11-04-09, 01:32 PM
i just say what else does it clogg up all kind stuff and can cause more problems just fix the problem.

reddone5
11-21-09, 03:36 PM
I came across this board after searching endlessly for a solution to my problem. I hope this miracle in a bottle is exactly that. I have not had a chance to enjoy Kitty
Kitty, since I purchased her several months ago. After driving the car only x2 I began to smell a scent that smelled as if I had driven across the country, the engine smelled hot. NO signs inside or outside the car of trouble. The car ran like brand new, and looks like new. While backing out the drive one day I spotted white smoke coming out of the exhaust, not much but some. Than one day a huge spillage on the ground. After taking the car to several mechanics, one didn't even open the hood, I have been informed I need a new engine. Head gaskets, sealants blocks, coolant system......too much confusing information for me. The car has sat in the drive for months. I thank the Lord I had other transportation. I've priced motors from the salvage yards to Jaspers. The price of the motor and installation will cost more than what I paid for the car. So with all the homework and the information, I figure I cannot loose trying the miracle in the bottle. Please pray for Kitty Kitty.

turboguy52
11-21-09, 09:52 PM
well I tried your fix in a bottle and while I can say it took my 99 Deville from a just 5 mile around town car to a ride to work car every day 44 mile round trip mtn. roads. It has over heated one time, but It has saved me a fortune for now and I work in Advance and we don't carry it. So I contacted CRC and I ended up ordering online. I am going to redo one more time because I don't think I let it dry long enough. There is nothing there to stop up like your rad. and block!!!!! You would have to see this stuff and talk to one of their tech reps. to believe it. I've put over 1500 mile on it and feel very safe as long as I have a rear floor full of coolant. But seriously it does work!!!!

Destroyer
11-25-09, 11:21 PM
(very easy job - thanks to GM for a good design) These words in reference to the design of a N* motor are seldom used.

83CADMAN
11-30-09, 01:34 PM
My 94 Concurs w/ the N* was purchased w/117k miles and a small coolant leak. It was priced cheap enough and not really knowing about the N* problems, I bought it thinking I could fix it and have a nice ride for 4 or 5 years. Iíve done plenty of overhauls over the years. A couple of hundred bucks for a rebuild kit and some shop time, no sweat. YA RIGHT!!!! The more I found out, the more I regretted the buy. I couldnít find any one willing to even touch it. I did locate a couple of N*'s at a local yard, $800 to $900. Unfortunatly the motors were not the correct year and I found out interchangeability was out of the question. What to do? Try to recoup my cost by parting? Throw more money ($2,000 to $4,000) at it? Or spent the repair cost on a different car and not get my hands greasy? Well I opted to try the so-called miracle in a bottle fix. I did every thing exactly as the instructions stated. Before I used this stuff the car could idle for hours without O/H and I could drive the car around if I stayed below 35 mph and avoided any hills. BUT NOWÖit overheats after 5min in the driveway. Iím so tired of buying Dexcool at $14 per jug just to have it go to the ground.
Iím starting to think about staging a lemon car bash, maybe charge a couple of bucks to take a swing at it with a sledge. I have been a Caddy lover for decades but this one is the biggest and pettiest piece of sh** ever put on the market. Everything about the car is designed to last 50 yrs except the GD head gasket/bolt failures at warranty expiration. Never again will I buy a N* Cadillac. Destroyer, You have it pegged right.

83CADMAN
11-30-09, 01:54 PM
Because there's NO room to work, especially on the rear bank of cylinders. You might get the head off, might be able to do the machining and drop in the studs, but you'll never get that rear head back on. No way can you rotate the engine enough to get rear head clearance.

I agree there isnít enough room to work on these engines but Jake has posted in other threads that he does his stud kit w/motor in car.
Perhaps by installing the studs and head at the same time. By inserting the studs in the bottom of the head and then double nuting the top of the studs might allow, after tilting the engine, the head to be positioned and then torque. Any thoughts?
How about it Jake, you going to share with us. You might change my mind about fixing my own N* nightmare.

STSS
12-01-09, 10:05 AM
Jake pulls the motor.... his "specialty" is that he pulls it out the top.

83CADMAN
12-01-09, 01:38 PM
Sorry, My bad. I must have confused other info.:bonkers: But still, if you can tilt the motor enough to remove the rear head why cant a jig and 90 deg. drill be used to tap new threads and re-install the head, gasket along with a stud set per my previous post.:hmm: Anyone tried it?

ponyboyt
12-01-09, 01:52 PM
Jake pulls the motor.... his "specialty" is that he pulls it out the top.

i never realised that, i always thought he did it theway i did mine, out the bottom!

You shoulda seen the look on his face when i told him i was gona do it again so i could pressure wash the engine and engine bay cause its dirty :histeric:


if you can tilt the motor enough to remove the rear head why cant a jig and 90 deg. drill be used to tap new threads and re-install the head, gasket along with a stud set per my previous post. Anyone tried it?

once the studs are in you are raising the effective required clearance by an amount equal to the length of the top of te stud.

Hmm unless maybe you screw the studs in with the head and gasket in place... but something tells me no... maybe the studs wont clear (they are kinda long?) and i woldnt want to do that anyway no way without seeing exactly whats going on.

That sounded nerdy.

And is probably wrong.

Destroyer
12-03-09, 09:27 PM
Iím starting to think about staging a lemon car bash, maybe charge a couple of bucks to take a swing at it with a sledge. Destroyer, You have it pegged right.I'd love to take a swing at a N* powered car. I'll be first in line with cash in hand! :D

83CADMAN
12-10-09, 12:47 PM
Perhaps by installing the studs and head at the same time. By inserting the studs in the bottom of the head and then double nuting the top of the studs might allow, after tilting the engine, the head to be positioned and then torque. Any thoughts?


If you can R&R the rear head by tilting the motor.....head bolt length=replacement stud bolt length.....either way you would have to pre-install the bolts in the head before fitting the head to the block.

Papi_MaC
12-12-09, 05:14 PM
It saved me a ton of money. :worship:

I own a 1999 Deville Concours with 146,000 miles.

Having that many miles on the engine, then filling the system with gobble-gook, you will likely have to opt for a rebuild rather than just a HG job when it fails. I would suggest selling the car while it still runs and moving on to the next.

osu411yamaha
12-12-09, 06:34 PM
Having that many miles on the engine, then filling the system with gobble-gook, you will likely have to opt for a rebuild rather than just a HG job when it fails. I would suggest selling the car while it still runs and moving on to the next.
Let me get this straight. You simply think he is masking a problem? Even worse you think he should screw someone over by immorally selling them the vehicle while the temporary fix is still masked? The ease with which you wrote what you said suggests to me you have experience with this type of behavior. Twinbopilot does not strike me as that type of guy.

Papi_MaC
12-13-09, 01:15 PM
The ease with which you wrote what you said suggests to me you have experience with this type of behavior.

Actually, I bought my Eldorado with high mileage knowing that it had head gasket issues. If he would rather run it into the ground than sell it on the cheap to someone willing to actually fix the car, that's his choice. But when the real problem with that engine rears its ugly head, it seems the junkyard would be that cars next stop; rather than a true repair.

I suggested he sell it, not to dump it on some poor soul who doesn't know what they're getting into. You are fairly quick to accuse someone of being malicious, osu411yamaha. Honestly though, idgaf what you think :thumbsup:

97EldoCoupe
12-15-09, 02:06 PM
Papi-Mac's suggestion to sell the car had no hint whatsoever of dishonesty or unfairness. If one were to sell a Cadillac with a failing head gasket, the condition of the engine should be fully disclosed to the buyer, if the seller is aware there is indeed a problem, or even thinks there is. A blown HG should be confirmed before any attempt to sell, to be honest, because a $15 thermostat could mean the difference between selling a car for $500 and selling a car for $5000.

I fully understand Papi-Mac's statement- either fix it right, or sell it to someone who will at a cost that reflects the engine's condition.

I know from experience, I bought my '97 with blown HG's and the owner knew about it. I asked him what he was going to buy next and he said "A 2001 Deville. The 2000s don't have as many problems". LOL I still would have bought the car for $3100, but it should have been half that or less. I also buy quite a few parts cars and fixer-uppers. The amount of people who tell me "it just needs a thermostat" or something along those lines is amazing.

I run in to it all the time, a customer brings me a car he's just purchased after getting it to pass inspection, buying plates/registration, and then realizing he can't drive 60MPH without the car overheating. Anyone with any sense of decency will never sell a car knowing it needs a $2000 repair job without disclosing it. Any undue accusations that any fellow forum members would advise this is frowned upon. We don't do stuff like that here.

Destroyer
12-15-09, 10:43 PM
I was extremely honest about selling my '98 Deville. I had '06 STS wheels/tires on it and many new parts as well. I put an ad on Craigslist, described the car, the H/G problem and I even referred to it as a POS in the ad. Sold it for $1600 but had more than twice that in repair bills up to that point plus the initial purchase price of $4300. Evidently I sold it to the owner of a used car lot cause just a couple of days later it was on a lot. A couple of weeks later the lot was out of business.

97EldoCoupe
12-16-09, 07:34 AM
Thats the way to do it Destroyer. You might have lost some $$$ but you can still sleep at night with a clear conscience.

Car dealers can be the worst. I had one bring me a 98 STS for HG repair. Partially paid with a business check. It bounced.

Destroyer
12-16-09, 09:02 PM
Thats the way to do it Destroyer. You might have lost some $$$ but you can still sleep at night with a clear conscience.

Car dealers can be the worst. I had one bring me a 98 STS for HG repair. Partially paid with a business check. It bounced.
Actually a lot of people responding to my ad thanked me for being up front and honest about the car. It was still fully driveable and would not over heat for at least 20 or so minutes but I would not do that to anyone. I was just glad to see it go.

turboguy52
01-10-10, 09:06 PM
Well it was good while it lasted, buy my 99 deville is back to square one. Pushing out all the coolant and overheating. But the good news is i did get a check from crc for double my money back. So guess what i bought two more bottles of the same stuff because i got like 5k miles the first round, so why not??? I know im not stupid i worked on heavy equipment 13 years i know i'm just buying time and guming up the cooling system but i'm a do it yourselfer and come spring i'm tearing into this baby because i love a good challenge, and i love my caddy, thanks to all who read this and good luck with your caddy's.

jeffrsmith
01-12-10, 05:20 PM
Whatever it takes! Good luck.

**concours**
01-23-10, 03:37 AM
:lies: HA HA HA

I have no connection whatsoever with K&W. I'm just a plain old Cadillac owner. I did notice some guys on one of the other Cadillac forum sites are also having success with this product. Google if you are interested - I wouldn't want to link to the "competition". :shhh:

I'm not saying this repair is going to last forever, but it made an un-drivable car drivable again. Even if it only lasts a few months, I'm satisfied. Gives me time to figure out my next move car-wise.

I will continue to post updates every so often. If anyone else tries it, let us know your results.

sounds like you now have a town car.

Kidcadillac68
02-16-10, 12:20 PM
Gang, let me ask you this...1998 Sedan DeVille, 178k miles. Runs great. The other day it displayed the "low coolant" message and I tossed in Peak 50/50 premix (I just put in what I had leftover in the last jug used in the '68). I then drove the car from indianapolis IN to Springfield IL and back (450 miles at 70 mph). Temp typically runs from 199-204 and this trip was no different. Runs great, no overheating. The next time I drove the car it states "Low Coolant" again. I stick about a half gallon of pre-mix into her to fill it to the top. Both times when I opened the surge tank, there was a tiny bit of pressure there. The car has never gotten above 205 ( I know the head gasket story and watch the temp like a hawk). Any clues as to what this could be without it being a head gasket? Or does this fit "the profile".

97EldoCoupe
02-16-10, 01:26 PM
Pressure is normal when warm, a bit. No overheating. Coolant loss. I'd be pressurizing the cooling system and then checking for external leaks. It could be in the beginning stages of HG failure- but it may be something as simple as a cracked outlet on the coolant resevoir, or a rusty heater line..... start with the simple stuff first.

Submariner409
02-16-10, 02:25 PM
..................and you DON"T fill it to the top !!! The proper level is half full, cold. Warming coolant expands a LOT, so if you fill the reservoir to the top, as the engine heats up the coolant expands and has nowhere to go, so it happily blows out the reservoir overflow. This sequence continues until the system stabilizes at a level which allows the coolant to expand and maintain 16 psi throughout the system without lifting the pressure cap relief: The system is designed to run under pressure - that's what raises the boiling point of 50/50 coolant from 218 degrees to 265 degrees.

Ranger
02-16-10, 04:23 PM
If you did not overheat on a trip like that the HG's are probably just fine. Common leak points are a cracked radiator side tank, cracked surge tank, purge line nipple on the surge tanks (as Jake suggested). Dried Dex leaves a whitish chalky residue. Look for that.

ponyboyt
02-17-10, 02:14 PM
had to add 2 literes of coolant when i changed the oil a few days ago. It was randomly popping low coolant message and going away on its own. Ive had no sign of fluid on the ground, and thelast few weeks ive been idling it in the mornings cause te ticking (piston slap? -10c out!)scares me till it goes away when the temp gage starts to finaly move. I dont use Dex, what am i looking for? It has green with 2 litres added of universal. Now im worried... the shop that did my oil wasnt too good... when i say "DONT PUT WASHER FLUID IN I HAVE 20 JUGS AT HOME" and i see 2 liters on my bill... well ya.

Could be a slow leak, im not gona check it every day cause its too hard to judge how fast its going. I figured i'd just hit trip-reset and wait for the message to come back.

97EldoCoupe
02-17-10, 07:25 PM
Oddly enough Submariner, I had a customer who kept coming calling me telling me he was losing coolant after I installed a reconditioned engine in his Deville. He kept insisting his head gaskets were gone again. Insisted his temp spikes of 225F were not normal. He would not give up when I told him the temp was normal, and to check for coolant leaks - so I had him drive two hours to my shop. Gave it a bit of cooling time. I was going to do a pressure test on his cooling system and opened the resevoir. Nice and full. I asked the customer "how much coolant are you losing? Because your resevoir is still full-" He had a look and told me it was low. He said "I always fill it to the top" ............

Submariner409
02-17-10, 08:38 PM
Jake, if people - new Northstar owners and those with a new driver's license - would only read the owner's manual, do some homework in here, and perhaps subscribe to a few engine wrencher periodicals neither of us, Ranger, or a few others would have calloused typing fingers :cool2:. We don't know squat: smoke, mirrors and hearsay rules nowadays.

IIRC we learned it all in '56 or '66 on Friday and Saturday evenings in a friend's garage or as the grease monkey at a local petrol (!) station.

Computers and the Internet are a great detriment to hands-on learning. I'll get off my soapbox.........

Ranger
02-17-10, 08:41 PM
Oddly enough Submariner, I had a customer who kept coming calling me telling me he was losing coolant after I installed a reconditioned engine in his Deville. He kept insisting his head gaskets were gone again. Insisted his temp spikes of 225F were not normal. He would not give up when I told him the temp was normal, and to check for coolant leaks - so I had him drive two hours to my shop. Gave it a bit of cooling time. I was going to do a pressure test on his cooling system and opened the resevoir. Nice and full. I asked the customer "how much coolant are you losing? Because your resevoir is still full-" He had a look and told me it was low. He said "I always fill it to the top" ............

:histeric:

ponyboyt
02-18-10, 11:31 AM
ITS NOT JUST CUSTOMERS!!!!

My god, thisplace that did my oil change. Advertised "in 9 minutes or less".

I had to argue a refund for washer fluid, as i had said DONT put any in i have jugs at home why should i pay for it. Had to get a refund for that.

The boss yelled at a female worker cause i had to ask her if she checked the antifreeze (which is part of their procedure) and she said yes, but i knew she had not as i was sitting in the car watching the whole time... plus i knew i was low on anti-freeze. I specificly said GREEN PLEASE and fill it half way, then run the car for a few seconds and check it again. They filled it to thetop... i made him take a liter out...

9 minutes or less, i was there a good 45 minutes.

Oil and filter, 2 liters of coolant...

79 freekin dollars.

never going there again.

97EldoCoupe
02-18-10, 03:58 PM
Mason- the simplest solution to this B.S. - do everything yourself.

The problem is the low paid employees that work at these lube shops. The are paid so freaking low that they just don't give a $hit what they're doing or what the results are. They're just there to kill time and collect their paycheck. Go to people who get paid enough to care if they lose their jobs or not..... I'm serious - or do your fluid changes and top ups yourself. You'll save money, time and a lot of hassle.

97EldoCoupe
02-18-10, 04:03 PM
Maybe if these lube shops paid their employees more than minimum wage and gave them a few hours of training on customer service and attention to detail, things would be different.

turboguy52
03-27-10, 12:42 AM
It's the exact way mine started at least give this stuff a try. I work at a major parts store and understand the risk but this stuff workes in a different way!!! It can't possibly clog any thing. Please follow directions to the t, very important!!!! Thanks juno!!!!!

samdun124
06-04-10, 01:26 AM
OK here my problem my 98 deville 138,000 mile will set and idle all day fine with no problem i can drive 70mph to work doing the day 100 degree temp out-side and overheat fill with water at night-time before leaving work and it fine never reach 200 stayed at 185-195 driveway 209 (45 min to work) and 40 min home replace rad, themo, fans, and pump.

My Question is do you think it will work i have not seen anybody with same problem (coolant come out overfilled hoses of tank once hottt) who cannot drive their car longer then 15 min i dont have money to fix head G,

Someday i let it sit when it really hot outside and wait far my wife to get home and take her car if it cool outside i take my deville.

ponyboyt
06-04-10, 08:49 AM
Well, that sounds like my first one, except not so often at first. I was topping it up every couple weeks, as the low coolant message would come up. It wasnt overheating though. After 15k miles or so, it overheated randomly one night. There was air in the system, and exhaust gasses i think heated up the dribbles of coolant that were going through. It purged itself and cooled off, i remember that night. I drove home and it was fine for a week. Eventualy got to the point where ALL the coolant would burn in under 5km.

Then i have another car, i think the guy used Bars leak or something. It was smoking (steaming) like a old train you see in the movies. That was in January, and the car sat for 4.5 months. I fired it up a couple weeks ago and it wasnt smoking. Maybe it wasn't cold enough out to see it... Well, seems the Bars may have cured over 4 months. I got about 1000km out of it before it started burning up the coolant again. I stopped driving it as i dont want to damage anything.

Driving it MIGHT be ok if you keep topping it up. But its not the driving part thats the worst, its before and after you drive it. I was lucky my starter was weak, cause one morning i had cylendar #2 full off coolant and when i touched the key it wouldnt turn. I realised instantly what it was so i didnt try again. That could have totalled it.

When that coolant gets in there, after shuttoff it can leak down into the oil.

I remember Jake talking about "rusted parts everywhere, passages, water pump blades, pain in the ass to clean".

Ranger
06-04-10, 11:21 AM
OK here my problem my 98 deville 138,000 mile will set and idle all day fine with no problem i can drive 70mph to work doing the day 100 degree temp out-side and overheat fill with water at night-time before leaving work and it fine never reach 200 stayed at 185-195 driveway 209 (45 min to work) and 40 min home replace rad, themo, fans, and pump.

My Question is do you think it will work i have not seen anybody with same problem (coolant come out overfilled hoses of tank once hottt) who cannot drive their car longer then 15 min i dont have money to fix head G,

Someday i let it sit when it really hot outside and wait far my wife to get home and take her car if it cool outside i take my deville.
No. The best you can hope for is a temporary reprieve.

CyekiM
06-13-10, 11:08 PM
Greetings to all my fellow Cadillac owners. I've been lurking on this forum for some time and as they say in the bittorrent world, its time to seed and not just leech! So I'm trying to give back a little something information-wise.

Seriously, I wanted to report a positive experience with a new product. I have absolutely no relationship to the manufacturer. Here goes:

I own a 1999 Deville Concours with 146,000 miles. It was overheating within 10-15 minutes of start-up (I'm in Texas and the temps right now are 100+). It would actually blow the coolant out the overflow tube on the expansion tank when it got hot enough. Also, I could smell exhaust gases in the coolant. I know there is a $50 test for this but I just left the cap off before it got too hot and every once in a while a bubble would come to the surface. By putting my nose in the opening and sniffing this bubble (be careful if you do this), it was obvious there were exhaust gases in my cooling system which means the dreaded head gasket leak was present.

Now I can tell you I am not a believer in miracle cures. I can already see the replies that will berate me for not "fixing it right". With respect, not everyone has $2500-$4000 to do it "correctly". I personally lost my job as a pilot with a major airline in December, so the belt is already very tight at my house!

Enter a product from K&W called K&W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block Repair. It costs $20 but offers twice your money back if not satisfied. Do they actually refund you $40? I have no idea as I didn't request a refund - read on:

The product claims to use "nanotechnology" which involves atom-sized particles. It does not have the coppery sludge in it that Barrs head gasket repair (and most of them) use. It is a pure liquid with some brown slimy stuff in it that looks like it came out of your nose (hows that for a technical description?).

I followed the instructions on the bottle to the letter. Be advised you will have to drain your cooling system and flush it with water prior to using this product. They recommend pulling the plugs and checking them for orange/red color from coolant then leaving this plug (or plugs) out during the treatment. I did this but all the plugs looked pretty much the same except 3 or 4 had a grey powdery build up on them which looked like oil if you go by the spark plug diagnosis pictures you can see many places online. So I just cleaned them and re-installed all 8 prior to the treatment.

The treatment procedure has you idle the car for 30 minutes with pure water and the K&W in it then drain the system for a 12 hour drying period. I woke up the next morning with great anticipation - would it work or was my time and money wasted?

I re-installed the thermostat (they have you remove it during the treatment) and refilled the system with Dex-Con and water. Now time to put it to the test. As I started the engine, the car displayed the outside temp. as 104 degrees. I had four one gallon jugs of water in the trunk that I could use to limp home with in case the coolant spewed out the overflow again.

Turns out they weren't needed! I first let the car idle in the driveway with the a/c on. Previously the car would overheat within 10-15 minutes even if it was just sitting idling (Yes the fans work fine). After 30 minutes, no leaks and no overheating, so it was time for a test drive. I began by driving around the local surface streets at 40-45 mph with a/c on of course. To my amazement, after 20 minutes the temp needle never wavered from the 12:00, or middle position. Hmmm, could this have actually worked? My next test was on the highway, driving 65-80 mph, for 30 minutes. Once again, no movement on the temp gauge! I said a small prayer of thanks and headed home with a BIG grin on my face.

Now its been a few days and lots of miles but the car still runs great with no overheating.

YMMV, but I highly recommend K&W Nanotechnology for N* engines with leaky head gaskets.

Please reply with any additional questions you may have as I'm certain I didn't cover everything here.

Thanks and enjoy those Cadillacs!

How are things over at K&W Nanotechnology working out for you? We true Caddy owners with North Star Head Gasket problems know that there is nothing sold in a bottle that will repair a blown head gasket...nice try!

tigers2007
06-29-10, 03:45 AM
Yeah I'm bored but I just ran upon this:

Bars Leak Professional head gasket repair in a bottle (3-step) (http://barsleaksdifm.com/hg3.htm)

According to their FAQ section, it will repair Northstars. Huh?

$60 miracle juice?

tateos
07-01-10, 03:22 PM
That MIGHT work temporarily, but in the long run, the engine needs to come out. The problems with N*s is that not only has the HG blown, but the head bolt threads have failed

stssteve
07-03-10, 01:49 AM
Yeah I'm bored but I just ran upon this:

Bars Leak Professional head gasket repair in a bottle (3-step) (http://barsleaksdifm.com/hg3.htm)

According to their FAQ section, it will repair Northstars. Huh?

$60 miracle juice?


Not only will it not last but it will also gum up your coolant passages to the point of where you'll run into significant additional costs above head gasket repair in the short term as well. My guess is the heater core and engine coolant passages will be the main spots it will also harm. The mechanic doing the innevitable proper HG job will likely not be pleased.

I'd just go with Jake's stud kit or his service and put it behind me.

Theopris Mays
03-17-11, 06:27 PM
I seen this product at autozone part store here in ohio. And what caught my attention, was the fact it was NANO, and not the fiber carbon crap from bars and seal. I think chemical product are advancing, and this NANO can very be the cure to save us 2500-4000 bucks. I will attempt to try this product myself, and i agree with the other poster, as times is getting hard, people just don't have the cash like they use to.

I know Nano technology is amazing, but with its use as a sealer, it might just work. Its different from the carbon fibers, it's able to seal and places most product can't. Carbon fiber seal like gravel rocks over a pot hole, nano seals like there was never a hole there, just a tough seal base, like a patch of cement.

So i plan on giving this product a try, and i will call the companies and check other reviews, thanks Theo

Submariner409
03-17-11, 08:15 PM
FYI, "NANO" is a current buzzword, like "billet" and "green". Pure marketing hype.

If you fall for the pitch, you become an example of P.T. Barnum's old saw..............

There's only one way to repair a failing Northstar set of head gaskets/head bolt thread holes: pull the engine and repair the damage - same as any other good mechanic would do.

ThumperPup
03-17-11, 08:24 PM
i was at the autozone on rockside in cleveland today
and walked down the isle saw this crap and turned around and loughed thought to myself if only i had an idea like this to make a fortune and get ppl to think there car is fixed but it isn't

RippyPartsDept
03-17-11, 08:49 PM
i just sent a PM to twinbopilot asking him to come back and give us an update...

he hasn't logged in to the forums since november last year and his last post was a year prior to that (post #31 in this thread actually (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/174711-sucessful-northstar-head-gasket-repair-bottle.html#post2049284))

anyone want to take me up on a bet that his fix in a bottle failed again and was temporary at best?
(notice that post he mentions that it failed but he was going to use it again)

the reason that people can be deceived into thinking that these things work is that the HG failure is often very slow... and you can get by driving w/ failed head bolts for an undetermined amount of time (until it gets to be too bad) - they might give you some extra time but as Jake knows they make the permanent fix a tougher job since they 'mess' up the engine in the process of buying you a little bit of time (maybe)

Ranger
03-17-11, 09:50 PM
They never come back to say that it didn't last. They don't call it "hope in a bottle" for nothing. Sometimes you just have to learn the hard way.

ThumperPup
03-18-11, 12:27 AM
never come back only talk good about it but feel dumb when it doesn't work so they don't come back to admit it didn't work
that is why these products have the hype they do because everyone is saying it worked but when it stops working they are to fooled and feel dumb to come back and say i was taken for a ride

twinbopilot
03-18-11, 12:32 AM
Sorry to disappoint all you doubters, but the car is still driven to work five days a week and has seen a road trip or two since the repair. I've had no further issues except the water pump belt tensioner failed but obviously unrelated. I say try it and if it doesn't work send it back to the manufacturer for a full refund. That's what I was planning to do because I was sceptical too but the product made a believer out of me. Certainly someone else here has $30 to try it and post results???

ThumperPup
03-18-11, 12:55 AM
IM sure that if the Company wanted to offer a deal like here is the product we will hold your card number or check for 30 or 60 days if your not happy and it doesn't work return it and we won't charge you for it
but the problem is no one wants the hassle of having to be charged then item not working then possibility of company saying well you did something wrong its not our fault
let someone try it out for free and only charge them if it works and they keep the system
if not then maybe there is a reason ppl don't want to put 30 out if its only a temp fix why waste there money when they could save it up to fix it properly the way that is know


glad to hear its still working for you

RippyPartsDept
03-18-11, 03:41 AM
in post #1 (heretofore known as the OP) you mention foregoing the exhaust gas test based on your own 'sniff' test
you also mention leaving the cap off and watching the bubbles... the car WILL boil over if you leave the cap off and idle for a while

also you mention losing coolant out the overflow, which often happens when people simply add too much coolant

couldn't your problem really have just been something like a blocked purge line?

and you basically just did a coolant exchange to water then ran their 'nano-tech' in the water for a while... then drained again and filled up w/ dexcool?

how sure can you really be that your 'coolant flush' didn't just simply clear a blocked purge line and you're head gaskets (and bolts) are just perfectly fine?
and if that's the case, then still there's no guarantee that the headbolts will continue to hold up...
but worrying about that is kind of like worrying about natural disasters... if you think about it

tateos
03-18-11, 02:25 PM
Yeah - if anything in a bottle "fixed" a N* HG problem, then it wasn't a HG in the first place. I can believe that on most engines, it's at least possible that a product in a bottle could seal a small leak FROM the ~15 PSI cooling system, into the crankcase or leaking externally - that's basically the purpose of the GM coolant tabs recommended on a lot of the earlier engines. What I don't believe is possible is for an additive to seal on a N*, where you have loss of clamping pressure due to pulled bolts, and as a result, gases are leaking from the ~175 PSI combustion chamber INTO the the ~15 PSI cooling system.

That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it!

vincentm
03-18-11, 03:23 PM
Sorry to disappoint all you doubters, but the car is still driven to work five days a week and has seen a road trip or two since the repair. I've had no further issues except the water pump belt tensioner failed but obviously unrelated. I say try it and if it doesn't work send it back to the manufacturer for a full refund. That's what I was planning to do because I was sceptical too but the product made a believer out of me. Certainly someone else here has $30 to try it and post results???

Your eyes are turning brown, sorry but i don't believe you

00 Deville
03-18-11, 05:52 PM
Nanotechnology.... LOL

Here's whats actually in the "miracle in a bottle".

75%-85% Water
10%-20% Sodium Silicate
< 1% Copper Flake
< 1% Aluminum Flake

Sodium Silicate (AKA liquid glass) is obviously the active ingredient here the same stuff they used in the cash for clunker program to permanently disable the engine.

http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/401232.pdf

Submariner409
03-18-11, 07:03 PM
Many years back, sodium silicate (water glass) was used on asbestos insulation as a sealer. (Old diesel submarine fact) You paint the solution onto any surface and, after drying, it forms a tough, glass-like layer on that surface. It is practically impossible to remove, so the OP's engine cooling system - all of it - is "plated" with an insoluble layer of some sort of magic stuff.

Go to a chemical supply house or maybe even a drug store (used to be able to buy it there.......) and play with it yourself, then come back and say you would pour it into your engine. We used to fool with it in chem lab in high school in the 50's.

Note that I'm NOT saying the stuff might not temporarily seal a failing gasket in contact with coolant - only that I would NEVER put it into an engine that might someday be rebuilt.

Ranger
03-18-11, 10:18 PM
I too seriously doubt that the OP's problem really was a bad HG in the first place or it would have failed by now. I do believe he is under a false impression.

tigers2007
03-19-11, 11:16 AM
Sodium Silicate? ahhhh....that leaves everyone TWO options. SCRAP or do the studs/certs

enubus14
05-29-11, 02:38 AM
Greetings to all my fellow Cadillac owners. I've been lurking on this forum for some time and as they say in the bittorrent world, its time to seed and not just leech! So I'm trying to give back a little something information-wise.

Seriously, I wanted to report a positive experience with a new product. I have absolutely no relationship to the manufacturer. Here goes:

I own a 1999 Deville Concours with 146,000 miles. It was overheating within 10-15 minutes of start-up (I'm in Texas and the temps right now are 100+). It would actually blow the coolant out the overflow tube on the expansion tank when it got hot enough. Also, I could smell exhaust gases in the coolant. I know there is a $50 test for this but I just left the cap off before it got too hot and every once in a while a bubble would come to the surface. By putting my nose in the opening and sniffing this bubble (be careful if you do this), it was obvious there were exhaust gases in my cooling system which means the dreaded head gasket leak was present.

Now I can tell you I am not a believer in miracle cures. I can already see the replies that will berate me for not "fixing it right". With respect, not everyone has $2500-$4000 to do it "correctly". I personally lost my job as a pilot with a major airline in December, so the belt is already very tight at my house!

Enter a product from K&W called K&W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block Repair. It costs $20 but offers twice your money back if not satisfied. Do they actually refund you $40? I have no idea as I didn't request a refund - read on:

The product claims to use "nanotechnology" which involves atom-sized particles. It does not have the coppery sludge in it that Barrs head gasket repair (and most of them) use. It is a pure liquid with some brown slimy stuff in it that looks like it came out of your nose (hows that for a technical description?).

I followed the instructions on the bottle to the letter. Be advised you will have to drain your cooling system and flush it with water prior to using this product. They recommend pulling the plugs and checking them for orange/red color from coolant then leaving this plug (or plugs) out during the treatment. I did this but all the plugs looked pretty much the same except 3 or 4 had a grey powdery build up on them which looked like oil if you go by the spark plug diagnosis pictures you can see many places online. So I just cleaned them and re-installed all 8 prior to the treatment.

The treatment procedure has you idle the car for 30 minutes with pure water and the K&W in it then drain the system for a 12 hour drying period. I woke up the next morning with great anticipation - would it work or was my time and money wasted?

I re-installed the thermostat (they have you remove it during the treatment) and refilled the system with Dex-Con and water. Now time to put it to the test. As I started the engine, the car displayed the outside temp. as 104 degrees. I had four one gallon jugs of water in the trunk that I could use to limp home with in case the coolant spewed out the overflow again.

Turns out they weren't needed! I first let the car idle in the driveway with the a/c on. Previously the car would overheat within 10-15 minutes even if it was just sitting idling (Yes the fans work fine). After 30 minutes, no leaks and no overheating, so it was time for a test drive. I began by driving around the local surface streets at 40-45 mph with a/c on of course. To my amazement, after 20 minutes the temp needle never wavered from the 12:00, or middle position. Hmmm, could this have actually worked? My next test was on the highway, driving 65-80 mph, for 30 minutes. Once again, no movement on the temp gauge! I said a small prayer of thanks and headed home with a BIG grin on my face.

Now its been a few days and lots of miles but the car still runs great with no overheating.

YMMV, but I highly recommend K&W Nanotechnology for N* engines with leaky head gaskets.

Please reply with any additional questions you may have as I'm certain I didn't cover everything here.

Thanks and enjoy those Cadillacs!

Hi I have a quick question is it possible to replace the head gasket if you have used the nanotech already?? Thank You

vincentm
05-29-11, 09:40 AM
As i said before in this thread as well as others, there's no fix in a bottle, no magic juju, no squeezing of a goat's testicles, zip zilch nada.

They must be replaced and the block retapped.
-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

stngh8r
07-27-11, 12:26 PM
To OP: Thankyou for your well written contribution to the forum. Please continue to update us.

To all: I realize the bottle fix is only a bandaid and with only a slim chance of temporary success, I'm fine with that reality. However, just for arguments sake, in my family we have 2 N* caddy's and their a pleasure to drive. But when and if a HG fails, you can take it to the bank, I will be dumping in some "fix it in a bottle". The way I see it, my family's Caddys are worth about what they weigh. I'm not going through the headache of "fixing" them.

BTW: Just to throw a wrench in the cog. My ol'roommate had a mid 90s 4cyl. S10 (also known for HG failures), it had all the signs of a HG failure and tested +. He poured in some super duper HG fixer, drove it like he hated it for 2+ years. Never got hot and didn't lose coolant.

Eric

tigers2007
07-27-11, 12:37 PM
I just did something similar with my friends 2003 Impala but with the air conditioning system. I dumped in a $20 can of this "super duper leak stopper" and then (after vacuum) dumped in 2.5 cans of R-134a w/leak stopper. The key is to take it on long drives so the leak stopper can plug the hole. Some people just dump it in and forget about it and don't realize that the goop needs to circulate to plug the hole. Its been a few weeks and it has held up well. Yeah -- I know where the leak is -- needs a new condensor but my buddy doesn't want to pay the $70 for the part nor do the labor.

I did the Northstar Performance repair with my '99 Deville and I do think it is a good value as the repair was done the right way and I believe it will almost run forever vs. using the goop in a bottle trick. I do agree though that if you have nothing to loose and you don't give a damn, then try the goop in a bottle trick. If you want to actually keep the car, then do it correctly by studding it.

RippyPartsDept
07-27-11, 03:35 PM
BTW: Just to throw a wrench in the cog. My ol'roommate had a mid 90s 4cyl. S10 (also known for HG failures), it had all the signs of a HG failure and tested +. He poured in some super duper HG fixer, drove it like he hated it for 2+ years. Never got hot and didn't lose coolant.
There's a reason why the HG-in-a-can works on those cars and not on N*


To all: I realize the bottle fix is only a bandaid and with only a slim chance of temporary success, I'm fine with that reality. However, just for arguments sake, in my family we have 2 N* caddy's and their a pleasure to drive. But when and if a HG fails, you can take it to the bank, I will be dumping in some "fix it in a bottle". The way I see it, my family's Caddys are worth about what they weigh out. I'm not going through the headache of "fixing" them.
If this is your attitude you would do yourself (and the general cadillac community) a service to forget the HG-in-a-can and sell to salvage yards
at least the engine would have a chance to be repaired by someone in the future - these 'band-aids' usually screw up the engine making it worth less
you can maximize the value of the 'junk' vehicle by parting it out yourself and cutting out the middlemen at the salvage yards (if you have the time and space to do it)

just mho

johnny kannapo
07-27-11, 03:53 PM
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/billytheshoe/misc%20tech/165d017a.jpg?t=1311796152

I forget the name, this bottled miracle elixer came up with this perminant headgasket repair kit. If you see this walk away.

stngh8r
07-27-11, 05:13 PM
If this is your attitude you would do yourself (and the general cadillac community) a service to forget the HG-in-a-can and sell to salvage yards
at least the engine would have a chance to be repaired by someone in the future - these 'band-aids' usually screw up the engine making it worth less
you can maximize the value of the 'junk' vehicle by parting it out yourself and cutting out the middlemen at the salvage yards (if you have the time and space to do it)

just mho

Most of the time I would agree with you 110%. And I would part out what I could. (Actually I'm parting out 2 vehicles as we speak. A supercharged, built bottom end, cammed 96 Mustang and a 01 GMC Sierra SLT).

It just seems to me with most of these Caddys age and mileage, they arent worth much even running. I have shopped for used parts and the supply is much greater than the demand. Heck, I know of 4 otherwise perfect condition cars within my small town area that have HG failure.

Eric

ThumperPup
07-30-11, 03:54 PM
i think that if this stuff works in a N car then who ever diagnosed that car with a bad HG miss Diagnosed it and the hg was fine just my apinoion

maeng9981
07-31-11, 05:40 AM
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/billytheshoe/misc%20tech/165d017a.jpg?t=1311796152

I forget the name, this bottled miracle elixer came up with this perminant headgasket repair kit. If you see this walk away.

No such kits can repair this
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/5619/sam0152r.jpg
http://jeff.siddall.name/northstar_head_gasket/images/Northstar%20Head%20Gasket%20Repair%2034.jpg
other than replacing.

ThumperPup
07-31-11, 09:09 AM
i remmber when i told my dad about the first time when the Hg's went spring of last year he tried to insit on this he googled northstar head gasket and that came up omg he belive this shit to lol
i asked him for a 1000 dollar loan for 1 month
all i had was 1500
so he starts in with well ill tell you what you buy this give it a try and then if it doesnt work ill give you the 1000 no loan just give it to you i was like no sorry
so after a few days i convinced mom to tell him to give me the money for a month lol
good old mom alwyas helps out when it comes down to a jew that does not part with there money to anyone exsept them selves lol = My Dad ))))

anyways this all bring sup that memory omg i will never use that stuff and
just tibit of info here not sure evyerone understands this product but its not a bottle merical fluid they even say in the norhtstar they have to add an adition part that goes above or below the t-stat i belive it goes in below the t-stat helps brings out or push back fuems before they get realeast in the heads or something like that wich im not really shure how the hell that works
but still i think its bogu and will never ever belive it
and i think they should be sewed for calling it a repair

98eldo32v
07-31-11, 12:12 PM
I can't believe after 2 years, 97 replies with illustrations and 24,000 plus views that this thread STILL has life?!

How can anyone believe that something in a can, can possibly repair something like this is unbelieveable. Even IF it could, what happen to reliability? What happened to peace of mind?

What happens if this decides to fail while driving across Arizona in 100 degree weather?

I'm stunned that this is still going......

89falcon
07-31-11, 12:28 PM
No such kits can repair this
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/5619/sam0152r.jpg
http://jeff.siddall.name/northstar_head_gasket/images/Northstar%20Head%20Gasket%20Repair%2034.jpg
other than replacing.

You're right!!!

That stuff on a bottle can NEVER fix a messy garage!!

fwiw, the poop in a bottle was designed to fill in holes in a BAD HEAD GASKET, not replace MISSING HEADBOLTS.....and on the NORTHSTAR, you blow headgaskets because the headbolts start pulling out....which is the same as MISSING HEADBOLTS. If this crap worked for MISSING HEADBOLTS, then GM would be using it when building new cars......just use half the number of headbolts, and "fill er up"

ThumperPup
07-31-11, 03:33 PM
You're right!!!

That stuff on a bottle can NEVER fix a messy garage!!

fwiw, the poop in a bottle was designed to fill in holes in a BAD HEAD GASKET, not replace MISSING HEADBOLTS.....and on the NORTHSTAR, you blow headgaskets because the headbolts start pulling out....which is the same as MISSING HEADBOLTS. If this crap worked for MISSING HEADBOLTS, then GM would be using it when building new cars......just use half the number of headbolts, and "fill er up"

just a fyi its not always the headbolts pulling that cause the hg's to fail
on the N's

I have had atleast 3 Mechanics that have told me they have pulled apart more N's from Headgaskets then Head bolt failure 2 of them have told me they have had atleast 2 or 3 over the last 10 or so years that when they puulled them out they head bolts came out without pulling part of the block out
and these are guys that have doen sevral N's not just 1 2 3 or 4 but probalby 1 2 3 or 4 a year i found this out when i was looking for a shop to Rebuild my Engine with a new block and all this past winter but they told me more times then not there has been problems do to someone thinking that just because dex cool says how ever many years and miles that they think it can go that long and other problems so not always the head bolts all though its more comon to hear a HG in a N going because of the head bolts

Submariner409
07-31-11, 03:54 PM
I can't believe after 2 years, 97 replies with illustrations and 24,000 plus views that this thread STILL has life?!

I'm stunned that this is still going......

Simple: Because new members come in here every day who don't know the full story, have only misinformation or hearsay for knowledge, and fervently want to hope and believe that $23.99 will fix their $7,000 engine.

TANSTAAFL - There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch - you either repair it correctly, fence it off on some unsuspecting fish, or junk it.

dkozloski
07-31-11, 05:28 PM
Rumor has it that Bernie Madoff was selling Cadillac head gasket repair in a bottle. It was too good a scam to pass up.

mmidyette
07-31-11, 07:51 PM
Rumor has it that Bernie Madoff was selling Cadillac head gasket repair in a bottle. It was too good a scam to pass up.

Bernie thought about it, but decided that it was too unethical.

ThumperPup
07-31-11, 08:09 PM
Bernie thought about it, but decided that it was too unethical.

no thats not it
he said it was to much of a risk

drewsdeville
08-01-11, 06:26 AM
Simple: Because new members come in here every day who don't know the full story, have only misinformation or hearsay for knowledge, and fervently want to hope and believe that $23.99 will fix their $7,000 engine.

TANSTAAFL - There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch - you either repair it correctly, fence it off on some unsuspecting fish, or junk it.

I think this is the plan for most in this thread. Most here are misunderstanding - Many using the bottle are just looking for something cheap to buy time while they figure out what they want to do, whether that be dump or junk. I don't think many are actually expecting a full substitution for a correct repair.

ThumperPup
08-01-11, 06:07 PM
well after what happend to me not using this product but anohter liquid copper stop leak stuff from BAR's
im agains all fixes in a bottle no matter what it is
mostly becuse i have a screwed up clogged up heater core from all the junk that i tried to use to stop the leak in my block and all
well the stuff says helps but does not say could cause other issues
we want a fix but we got to relize this stuff we pour in can clogg other things and not just the leaks

johnny kannapo
08-03-11, 05:35 PM
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRdTjr4xmIbb7LipQprbzS0NB5uFueeF FQitt2SGiN_aJoot7ecWQ

RippyPartsDept
08-03-11, 05:36 PM
:yeah:

ThumperPup
08-03-11, 06:35 PM
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRdTjr4xmIbb7LipQprbzS0NB5uFueeF FQitt2SGiN_aJoot7ecWQ

its time to make some lynchburge lemonades

johnny kannapo
08-04-11, 12:32 PM
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/billytheshoe/junk/34279e5e-1.jpg?t=1312408226

Submariner409
08-04-11, 02:27 PM
its time to make some lynchburge lemonades

TP...........When you get a few bucks ahead, pick up a fifth of Jack Daniel's Tennessee Honey. 2 oz. over rocks in an old fashioned glass. Sip slowly.

RippyPartsDept
08-04-11, 04:20 PM
NOOoooooooooooooo!!!!!

ThumperPup
08-04-11, 05:18 PM
TP...........When you get a few bucks ahead, pick up a fifth of Jack Daniel's Tennessee Honey. 2 oz. over rocks in an old fashioned glass. Sip slowly.

Me and My girl just finsihed what was left of the Gentleman's Jack that i had left over from my dad birthday over the weekend i am going to ehad out and get a bottle usualy the 750 bottles will last me a year i don't drink that much unless im out at the bar ill have a glass ones a week with a Ashton Carona

Iv neverhad tennese honey JD before but im heading out tomorrow for dinner with Mom and Dad who will be in town before going to temple so ill get a shot if they ahve it and try it out

vincentm
08-04-11, 05:44 PM
Can't do hard liquor, I stick to ales lol

Submariner409
08-04-11, 05:48 PM
NOOoooooooooooooo!!!!!

You not a bourbon drinker in NC ? Whut the hail ????

Here's another little-known secret............Find a small batch bottle of Old Whiskey Creek bourbon. Distilled in Bardstown, KY. Most excellent hooch.

ThumperPup
08-04-11, 06:16 PM
My dad will be so happy that im not ordering the bottom shelf Canadian club whiskey lol i order that all the time one of my favorits and hes like why you drink that crap lol

RippyPartsDept
08-04-11, 09:25 PM
i was just shocked that anyone would suggest Pup hit the hard stuff

ThumperPup
08-04-11, 11:03 PM
i was just shocked that anyone would suggest Pup hit the hard stuff


hahahaha
i was hitting the hard stuff ever since i sat in my GrandPas office the first time and he and his judge buddys handed me a Cigar and a glass of JB
i threw up after hitting the cigar but handed the JB easy

vincentm
08-05-11, 10:13 AM
hahahaha
i was hitting the hard stuff ever since i sat in my GrandPas office the first time and he and his judge buddys handed me a Cigar and a glass of JB
i threw up after hitting the cigar but handed the JB easy


Reminds me of my first time drinking Olde English Malt Liquor, became a King Cobra fan after, still like the Malt...that's the California in me i guess.

cbc
09-28-11, 06:01 PM
I have a 2000 eldorado and the Barrs Head gasket repair mix with any anitfreeze worked on my car! It has held so far for 1 yr and 9 months! I live in FL and it has worked thru 2 HOT summers! Car had only 120000 miles at time repair was needed and it flipped last weekend to 150k and I stomp on it and no problems!! so all you who say you can''t get a miracle in a can maybe not but I say I got one in a plastic bottle! :cool2: Yes I too like to fix things right but I just cant afford to do that fix for I am a woman and have to do all my repairs myself for shop fees are out of my reach. I thank the makers of these easy fixes! Have had no problems with the car since no codes gets 18 mpg in city, and 22-28 on Hwy and for a old big car I think thats good!:cool: straight up NORTH its a STAR!

maeng9981
09-29-11, 03:36 AM
I have a 2000 eldorado and the Barrs Head gasket repair mix with any anitfreeze worked on my car! It has held so far for 1 yr and 9 months! I live in FL and it has worked thru 2 HOT summers! Car had only 120000 miles at time repair was needed and it flipped last weekend to 150k and I stomp on it and no problems!! so all you who say you can''t get a miracle in a can maybe not but I say I got one in a plastic bottle! :cool2: Yes I too like to fix things right but I just cant afford to do that fix for I am a woman and have to do all my repairs myself for shop fees are out of my reach. I thank the makers of these easy fixes! Have had no problems with the car since no codes gets 18 mpg in city, and 22-28 on Hwy and for a old big car I think thats good!:cool: straight up NORTH its a STAR!

What symptoms did you have that made you decide to put sealer in your system?

CADI LOVE
01-22-12, 04:30 PM
what is the stud conversion and how exactly is it a permanent fix when all else fails...my first cadi blew up while driving on the highway to work..it was a '94 SLS...JUST BEAuTIFUL!...and i had no choice but to sell to the highest bidder in that condition because it happened during a time when i was behind on everything and now i have a '99 STS...another BEAUT,but now its at the beginning stages as far as i can tell...it just started running low on coolant a few days ago and now it will not stay in long enough to do anything.. on top of that i noticed white smoke coming from the front of the car twice. once by the windshield and another time out of the grill. it had been running hot a lot before all of this even started happening....no bubbles in coolant...no milky oil...no nothing noticeable like to my knowledge as i have checked these areas...maybe overlooked,but seriously doubt it...NEED ANSWERS! FEEDBACK

----------

:suspect::suspect:Again!!!!... What is a stud and how much does it cost and is it really a permanent fix?...???http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/images/smilies/16suspect1.gif

Submariner409
01-22-12, 07:58 PM
Studs - as refers to cylinder heads and repairs for failing head gaskets. The cylinder heads are presently held down/clamped by 10 high tensile bolts per head. For several reasons the cylinder block head bolt hole threads may/might/could/can fail, allowing the bolt(s) to release the clamping pressure. This causes either coolant corrosion of the gasket itself or failure of the gasket through leaking combustion gases. The fix (nothing is "permanent") is to remove the engine and cylinder heads, machine and thread new cylinder block bolt holes, and install either steel thread inserts (NOT Heli-coils) for new head bolts or install head studs which use nuts and washers for clamping pressure.

Steam coming from the engine room or at the windshield vent area is not failing head gaskets, it's cooling system leaks. Know that a Northstar with head gasket symptoms does not normally put oil in the coolant or vice versa (milky oil, oily coolant).

If you need head gasket repairs, studs or Norm's Inserts will go for about $1200 - $1400 in parts with YOUR labor, engine out of the car. Local good shop work, $2500+. Dealer, $4,500+.

You might first do a bit of homework and go to the thread near this one titled "best of luck................". It's a stud discussion.

For more stud pictures find threads of interest in the Northstar Performance forum or open the "HERE" link in the message from Jake in www.northstarperformance.com

(http://www.northstarperformance.com)

Ranger
01-22-12, 09:30 PM
:welcome: :yeah: You have an external leak, not a HG failure.

ddgm69
02-09-12, 01:15 AM
I have a 98 Deville that had a blown head gasket and NOBODY would fix it? Then I found Greg Allen at Allens Auto in Campbell Cali, next to San Jose. He worked as a Cadillac Mechanic for 10 years before he opened his on shop. He did it for $1500 and now the temperature stays at 197&bull; not 260 & over heating. Its been 2 years and sum change worth every penny, I LOVE MY CADI!

00 Deville
02-09-12, 01:28 PM
I have a 98 Deville that had a blown head gasket and NOBODY would fix it? Then I found Greg Allen at Allens Auto in Campbell Cali, next to San Jose. He worked as a Cadillac Mechanic for 10 years before he opened his on shop. He did it for $1500 and now the temperature stays at 197&bull; not 260 & over heating. Its been 2 years and sum change worth every penny, I LOVE MY CADI!

$1500 for an HG job is a steal.

Did he repair all 20 head bolt holes?
What method of thread repair did he use? (Timeserts, Bigserts, etc...)
Did he supply all parts?

www.allensautorepair.com (http://allensautorepair.com/)

tarat676
06-15-12, 10:51 AM
Hello I am new to the forum so please excuse me if i did not post this right. I have a 97 cadillac seville sts arizona edition, I was informed that the
head gaskets are blown from a radiator shop that i took it to so they could do a cleaning of the cooling system. I guess they did some kind of pressure test and gave me the great news. :( The mechanic said it just started, I have no smoke from tailpipe no milk shaky oil, just the typical overheating issue. I have not driven it since so as not to damage it more. I know that i should repair it correctly but it is not possible for me as i do not have the proper tools and such. I really only need it to drive to store and nearby destinations which does not entail much mileage. I want to use a head gasket sealer for now and have doing much research on which one i should try. My question is this, does it matter what the extent of the damage is as to which sealer i should use. As i stated before no smoke and no milk shaky oil, just the overheating issue. Any suggestions from you very savvy caddy owners out there would be greatly appreciated. thank you

ternstes
06-15-12, 11:18 AM
If you are only driving short distances, just keep an eye on the coolant level in the overflow tank and watch the temp gauge. The bottle products will not work and only make later repairs more difficult as you have to clean all the crud out from the sealer from all the coolant passages.

vincentm
06-15-12, 11:40 AM
Snake oils can clog your heatercore too

ThumperPup
06-15-12, 12:45 PM
Snake oils can clog your heatercore too

:yeah: clogged mine

Submariner409
06-15-12, 12:55 PM
You will probably never get oil contamination from head gasket failure in these engines - if you do, it's rarer than hen's teeth.

Just don't pour in any sort of goop - it will only make matters worse for you and even worse for a possible buyer who would do a top overhaul on the engine.

The "extent of the damage" in a Northstar is actually a moving target - the clamping force of the headbolt(s) is compromised, so the problem only gets worse over time - it's sort of like pouring cement into the San Andreas fault in order to stop it: It won't work.

tigers2007
06-15-12, 04:42 PM
Any suggestions

DO NOT use this "repair in a bottle". Use Northstar Peformance's Suregrip studs or Norm's certs.

Glenn Delwood
06-17-12, 09:10 PM
Somebody watch this video (http://youtu.be/-o3mgmDwTXE) and send me a bottle. Scratch that, I'll take a whole case of bottles.

Faded Crest
06-17-12, 11:45 PM
I've said it before... Trying to fix a Northstar head gasket with goop in a bottle is like thinking you can fix a rip in your pants by pouring alfredo sauce over it in hopes that when it dries crusts over it the tear will be fixed.

INHERITEDANORTHSTAR
10-06-12, 12:32 AM
Ok ... I am having a lot of these symptoms on my 99 sts northstar too!!! But as it was starting to get hotter the other day i punched the throttle a couple of times ... Just real quick bursts ... The temp started dropping back down until it hit dead straight up??? What the heck??? ... That's not a head gasket problem then, right??? A local shop diagnosed the overheating as a blown head gasket, so my dad gave me the sts and got him a marquis!!! I really don't trust that mechanic shop, and the only the only reason i was kind of believing head gasket when they said so, was the fact they would not do the head gasket repair job ... Said they had done 6 northstar head gasket repairs and only 2 of them held!!! So they were not trying to sell him a head gasket repair job!!! Any thoughts???

eldoradogary
10-06-12, 02:51 AM
Check your purge line to see if it's clogged. A block test would tell you for sure if it's blown. BTW if that shop did 6 headgasket jobs on Northstars and only 2 were good I'd stay clear of that place, the 2 that were good probably won't be for long.

snowmanwi
11-24-12, 01:39 AM
I had a loss of coolant in my 99 deville and a "friend" sugested a head gasket failure and to use this stuff. He said he had a northstar with a bad head gasket and it fixed it. I have used bottle fixes when i was younger (and dumber) and never had any luck, most of the time causing more problems. So I stuck with my gut and just started looking for a cause when i found a rusted pipe, fixed that for 10% of what that gunk costs. My guess is that when people say this stuff works they had no idea what was wrong in the first place.

DON'T USE BOTTLE FIXES EVER, NEVER, NO WAY, NO HOW, PERIOD!

And for those who want to use it to buy time to save money go ahead, but make sure you save double what it costs cause thats what it will cost you in the long run. You had to know that a cadillac would cost more to fix when you bought it or am i assuming too much?

cadillac00
11-25-12, 02:25 AM
I understand that times are hard and money is tight but if you can't afford a cadillac then don't drive one? Cadillacs are expensive cars and are expensive to repair but they are reliable. Every car has some trouble with it the deville is the HG but other than that these are amazing cars.


I had a HG fail on me in my last 2000 cadillac deville so I tried Barr HG repair. WHAT A LOAD OF CRAP worked for about 30 miles then car overheated again. I took it to get the engine studded at cadillac for $3500 but the guy called me and told me that the barrs had clogged up my radiator and other things and the price went from 3500 to 4500 so a $50 bottle ended up costing me $1000. Like all of us real cadillac owners say

IF YOU'RE GONNA FIX IT FIX IT RIGHT

These are luxury cars and deserve to be treated right if you don't like them go buy a Toyota and be like the rest of the world :cheap:

weister42
05-08-13, 03:42 PM
I recently bought some 16 inch rims off of a STS from a guy on craigslist in Mosinee WI, I didn't ask what year but the guy said he blew the headgasket when it had 112k miles, his buddy used a headgasket repair bottle (I forgot the brand that he told me) and it fixed it. He said it had 213k miles when he sold it to some guy who didn't want the stock tires/wheels and he sees the guy driving it all the time.


I donno, maybe there are some cases when it just works? I mean the GM coolant sealant tab fixed my coolant leak in my crossover pipe that would otherwise cost me $700 to fix. The repair shop was semi amused when I told them about it.

maeng9981
05-08-13, 06:14 PM
A lot of "head gasket failures" are also misdiagnosed. "Mechanics" tend to do no work at all on Northstars, telling its customers that it's a bitch of an engine and all northstars blow head gaskets.

Ranger
05-08-13, 09:06 PM
I'd only believe that if I saw it and the diagnosis my self. I ain't buying it.

ksmay71
05-27-13, 01:36 PM
Hey all,

My 2000 SLS was totaled a month ago. Therefore, the car is only worth 1200 when it runs. Two weeks ago, it was losing coolant and sputtering (misfiring) on startup. Fearing the worst, I took it to a good mechanic friend. He found exhaust gas in the coolant, and quoted me $3200 to fix the head gasket. I told him I'd just drive it till it died and picked the car up. Then I read this thread and decided to try it. I figured I'd try it, run the car till it dies and then part it out. So I put in the k&w nano stuff (which takes forever, btw), and when putting the coolant back in I doubled down and put in some coolant-compatible sealant. Left it overnight and started it in the morning, and it runs great. I never had cooling issues, so nothing to report there. But the car runs smooth and isn't drinking coolant.

I'll report back when it fails and I'm waiting for a towtruck. But until then, "No news is good news."

Kevin May

Orem, UT

vincentm
05-27-13, 05:54 PM
Hey all,

My 2000 SLS was totaled a month ago. Therefore, the car is only worth 1200 when it runs. Two weeks ago, it was losing coolant and sputtering (misfiring) on startup. Fearing the worst, I took it to a good mechanic friend. He found exhaust gas in the coolant, and quoted me $3200 to fix the head gasket. I told him I'd just drive it till it died and picked the car up. Then I read this thread and decided to try it. I figured I'd try it, run the car till it dies and then part it out. So I put in the k&w nano stuff (which takes forever, btw), and when putting the coolant back in I doubled down and put in some coolant-compatible sealant. Left it overnight and started it in the morning, and it runs great. I never had cooling issues, so nothing to report there. But the car runs smooth and isn't drinking coolant.

I'll report back when it fails and I'm waiting for a towtruck. But until then, "No news is good news."

Kevin May

Orem, UT


*sigh*

ksmay71
06-08-13, 05:05 PM
So, 500 miles down, still running great

drewsdeville
06-09-13, 01:49 PM
Sounds like you've already gotten your money's worth out of the product. Well done.

ksmay71
07-09-13, 07:52 PM
Woo! 1600 miles, we'll see where this goes...

04GrandAmGT
07-17-13, 12:52 PM
no offence, but i feel sorry for the mechanic that has to clean that block when the gaskets finally do completely go, i have seen some bad situations, especially with Dex-Cool.

drewsdeville
07-17-13, 01:14 PM
It's being junked when it lets go... hence the Bandaid attempt.
Hey all,

My 2000 SLS was totaled a month ago. Therefore, the car is only worth 1200 when it runs. Two weeks ago, it was losing coolant and sputtering (misfiring) on startup. Fearing the worst, I took it to a good mechanic friend. He found exhaust gas in the coolant, and quoted me $3200 to fix the head gasket. I told him I'd just drive it till it died and picked the car up. Then I read this thread and decided to try it. I figured I'd try it, run the car till it dies and then part it out.

ksmay71
08-12-13, 12:53 AM
Well guys, the junker has gone over 2,100 miles since the fix. I can't believe it either.

But the plot thickens. My wife and I just moved to Arizona (last week), where it's always over 100 anytime we drive the car. I also never go without A/C. And I'm starting to get a small coolant leak where I park.

So we'll see how much longer it holds. But I'll bet you can guess what I'm buying the minute it blows...

JoeTahoe
08-12-13, 03:18 PM
I know for a fact that the 10 northstars that I have worked on with bad headgaskets that NO Snake oil would have cured

RippyPartsDept
08-12-13, 03:51 PM
Bianca just had her HG's fail :(

no bolts had pulled out :thumbsup:
just the gasket compromised mainly around one cylinder

i didn't want to take the chance on putting some sealer in her just in case the bolts pulled down the road
so we pulled the motor and inserted the block and put some bigserts in there

she's all back together now and getting a test drive overnight and she'll be home tomorrow

it has been nice driving a '13 cts in the meantime but i do miss her plush blue leather seats
the cts is a bit cramped like a cockpit ... my only complaint

JoeTahoe
08-12-13, 04:22 PM
Chris was it #1 that failed that's the main one I have seen, you did your self and the mechanic a favor by not using that stuff. I have had only three northstars that showed alum. on bolts when taken out. I have one apart now that they put the miracle juice in and let me tell you its nasty in there. I believe that alot of these failures are a lack of cooling system maintenance

vincentm
08-12-13, 04:42 PM
Bianca just had her HG's fail :(

no bolts had pulled out :thumbsup:
just the gasket compromised mainly around one cylinder

i didn't want to take the chance on putting some sealer in her just in case the bolts pulled down the road
so we pulled the motor and inserted the block and put some bigserts in there

she's all back together now and getting a test drive overnight and she'll be home tomorrow

it has been nice driving a '13 cts in the meantime but i do miss her plush blue leather seats
the cts is a bit cramped like a cockpit ... my only complaint

Did they reseal her?

RippyPartsDept
08-12-13, 05:05 PM
yeah, actually 1 and 3 were compromised and 5 was starting to go

the plugs looked fine though :hmm:

was running rough after startup for the first minute or so of running for a few weeks and then began to hydro-lock at startup for the last few days before i pulled her off the road

my coolant was just recently changed out (radiator went this winter)
had probably been 3-4 years since the last coolant change

the new radiator leaked and was replaced a month or so ago
then the water pump leaked and i got a new pump and the new cover design

then almost immediately the rough startup began

now i just need to fix the elc compressor ... gonna frankenstein mine with another off a car that has a bad exhaust valve
my elc compressor lost compression and doesn't move any air the vac lines were totally crumbled too

----------


Did they reseal her?

did not do the lower block seals as that would cost quite a bit more and we have a technique to do them with the engine in the car so it's not really saving any labor to do them now

it doesn't drip anyway ... if it did drip then i would have had them do the reseal job

ryannel2003
08-12-13, 05:09 PM
I was actually down there a few weeks ago doing a dealer trade on a GMC Terrain at Bob King and drove through the lot. Lots of inventory down there and saw a beautiful WD '13 CTS-V :drool: Glad to hear the car has been fixed and will be back on the road soon!

RippyPartsDept
08-12-13, 05:16 PM
yeah that '13 WD w/ black chrome grille and red calipers was a special order that the owner backed out of... we kept the deposit naturally ... it's been sitting for a few months as you might imagine

Caddy-EaRL
08-12-13, 07:15 PM
did not do the lower block seals as that would cost quite a bit more and we have a technique to do them with the engine in the car so it's not really saving any labor to do them now


I'd like to know that technique :-)

ryannel2003
08-12-13, 11:13 PM
yeah that '13 WD w/ black chrome grille and red calipers was a special order that the owner backed out of... we kept the deposit naturally ... it's been sitting for a few months as you might imagine

Gorgeous car. We dont stock V's as they sit too long on the lot before we sell them. I can't remeber the last time we had one.

RippyPartsDept
08-13-13, 10:28 AM
I'd like to know that technique :-)

i don't know the whole process but it involves suspending the engine from above, dropping the cradle and somehow getting the exhaust pipe out of the way


Gorgeous car. We dont stock V's as they sit too long on the lot before we sell them. I can't remeber the last time we had one.

yup

ksmay71
09-11-13, 12:13 AM
Yep. Just passed 3,000 miles since my fix-in-a-can. We've moved to Mesa, AZ and we've had days over 115 with me idling in the heat and repeatedly accelerating to 40 mph and then stopping. I don't get it, but it's not giving up.

RippyPartsDept
09-11-13, 10:19 AM
the only way that a fix in a can will work on these cars is if the gasket itself is compromised ... if the bolts are pulling out the fix in a can will not work because the head keeps moving away from the block with every combustion event creating a gap that gets worse and worse

Submariner409
09-11-13, 11:05 AM
i don't know the whole process but it involves suspending the engine from above, dropping the cradle and somehow getting the exhaust pipe out of the way

That uses the GM special "engine support fixture" J-28467B and the companion brackets and lift adapter. You basically install lift brackets, erect a T-shaped special brace and hangers over the engine, take out the slack, and then remove everything from the bottom of the engine - cradle and all.

BUT - with the support fixture in place any work - any work - is impossible on the top - valve cover - side of the engine.

ksmay71
09-11-13, 03:40 PM
My mistake, just looked at it again... It's been over 4,000 miles since my fix. Started at 99,934 and now I'm at 104,040. I guess it's just a miracle or something, but it's running like a train.

BTW, I found the most awesome Cadillac video ever. Go to Youtube and search "White Walls Macklemore." Loved it.

basscatt
09-14-13, 08:46 PM
My mistake, just looked at it again... It's been over 4,000 miles since my fix. Started at 99,934 and now I'm at 104,040. I guess it's just a miracle or something, but it's running like a train.

BTW, I found the most awesome Cadillac video ever. Go to Youtube and search "White Walls Macklemore." Loved it.
------------------------------------
if your mechanic-in-a-can "fixed" the head gasket leak - for 4000 miles -
than you DID NOT actually have a head gasket leak -
it was simply misdiagnosed - like so many are -

-----------------

oh - and about that video - IT SUCKS -

the recluse
09-17-13, 11:01 PM
oh - and about that video - IT SUCKS -

Basscatt's got a case of the crabbies today....


-------------------


scratch that, saw the video...between the anorexic chick singing background and the white trash with the Pabst...well...it seemed to ruin the car viewing experience....

ksmay71
09-20-13, 02:09 AM
[QUOTE="basscatt;10946194"]
------------------------------------
if your mechanic-in-a-can "fixed" the head gasket leak - for 4000 miles -
than you DID NOT actually have a head gasket leak -
it was simply misdiagnosed - like so many are -

-----------------

So Basscat, how else would you explain exhaust gasses detected in the coolant tank? BTW, I just passed 4500 miles since the fix. I jumped on the gas pulling onto the freeway and got an interesting little cloud of smoke out the tailpipes. This may be the end of my run, but we'll find out tomorrow morning when I go out to start it up.

----------

Hehe... I need to learn how to quote.

MoistCabbage
09-20-13, 05:44 AM
There is a BIG difference between an HG gasket failure, and pulled head bolt hole threads.

Sealing products will do NOTHING for pulled threads, the gap is forever changing and widening.

In the case of an actual HG breach, a sealant MIGHT fill the gap temporarily... while making a mess of your cooling system, heating circuit, and block.

Submariner409
09-20-13, 10:21 AM
An "interesting little cloud of smoke" might just be the built-up "normal driving" black dust blowing out of the tailpipes upon sudden acceleration demands. Fairly common under sudden power application in any car.

QUOTE: Hit the "Reply with quote" tab, edit the resulting post box, add your comment/advice/opinion and click submit.

ksmay71
09-30-13, 04:59 PM
Well, I got in the next morning and it started right up! Thanks to a hefty commute, I'm now over 5100 miles since my fix-in-a-can. Whatever the original problem, the can fix is worth trying if a Caddy ia having head gasket - like issues.

vincentm
09-30-13, 05:53 PM
Well, I got in the next morning and it started right up! Thanks to a hefty commute, I'm now over 5100 miles since my fix-in-a-can. Whatever the original problem, the can fix is worth trying if a Caddy ia having head gasket - like issues.


Sorry, i still wont ever put snake oil crap in my engine.

Ranger
09-30-13, 08:45 PM
I don't think you had a HG issue to begin with.

ksmay71
10-19-13, 08:37 PM
I'm open to that. But I can't find any other way of explaining exhaust fumes detected by a professional in my coolant tank.

By the way, today marks 6,500 miles since my $20 crap-in-a-can fix.

Submariner409
10-20-13, 11:09 AM
I'm open to that. But I can't find any other way of explaining exhaust fumes detected by a professional in my coolant tank. .

Begs the question: Have you done a recent test for exhaust gases in the surge tank ?

ksmay71
10-28-13, 01:23 AM
Begs the question: Have you done a recent test for exhaust gases in the surge tank ?

Not since the first time. And strangely, the two or three times I have opened the tank it seems to be unusually pressurized. Kind of like it was before the fix.

CadillacLuke24
10-29-13, 12:31 PM
Not since the first time. And strangely, the two or three times I have opened the tank it seems to be unusually pressurized. Kind of like it was before the fix.

Yeah you're screwed. Unusually pressurized indicates exhaust gasses in the surge tank.

That being said, you did well by getting another 6,500 miles out of it, if you did have an HG related issue to begin with. Whatever works for you, it's your car and your money.

ksmay71
11-12-13, 03:00 PM
Heads up: me and my "screwed" car just drove from Mesa to Vegas and back. I know it was risky, but I didn't think it would be right to fly to the SEMA show.

FYI, I manned the SEMA Action Network booth. If you want notification when laws affecting the car hobby are being considered in your state, visit www.semasan.com/join and put in your info. No spam, and you'll join 65,000 other car nuts who help keep us and our smokin' hot rides legally on the road.

----------

And I just hit 8,000 miles since the fix. If anyone has any alternative explanations for what my problem was, I'm open to that.

rodnok01
11-12-13, 11:43 PM
----------

And I just hit 8,000 miles since the fix. If anyone has any alternative explanations for what my problem was, I'm open to that.

Pure dumb luck, but hey sometimes luck is all you need. I drove a car with rod knock for years and would have sworn it would blow any minute.

You prob have a very minor HG problem and along with your fix and flushing the system has stabilized it. Still wouldn't use myself.

SpawnX
11-25-13, 09:47 PM
I just bought a 99 eldorado etc that Idled hot. The thermostat was missing. Replaced the thermostat. Idle ran good but when i kept RPM at 2000 it got too hot. So next thing I changed was water pump. The original made slight noise. It seems the problem is fixed. I let fans turn on, kept engine cool. Then i kept RPM at 2800 and it didnt even reach 3/4 temperature. Took the car for a ride and i almost overheated, thermostat is now stuck closed I replaced it again.

I changed:
1. thermostat x2
2. waterpump
3. radiator


I am going to research purge valve clogged. Then i am going to try K&W Nanotechnology gasket sealant.

The car seems to run good when moving but at idle (red lights) it overheats with no sign of cooling. Fan speeds do reach max.

Oil is clean no signs of smoke no coolant loss. But now my dashboard says low coolant level and its topped off.

Ranger
11-25-13, 09:57 PM
I am going to research purge valve clogged.
There is no "valve". It's simply a purge (vent) line.



Then i am going to try K&W Nanotechnology gasket sealant.
Have you not read all the advice given over and over again?

SpawnX
11-26-13, 12:28 AM
yes but I feel as if the solution (k&w nanotechnology) wont clog or do damage.

Question: are the cadillac northstar 4.6l heads make from iron or aluminum?
Do they need to be resurfaced rebuilt once removed?

MoistCabbage
11-26-13, 12:54 AM
Regardless of whether or not it clogs anything, it simply won't work. Once the bolt hole threads fail, there's an ever widening, ever moving gap between the gasket sealing surfaces. You can't seal that. What makes you think this product is different/better than any of the other magic potions out there?

The Northstar has an aluminum block and heads. Nothing has to be done to the heads.

SpawnX
11-26-13, 01:34 AM
"The common problem on these cadillac engines is leaking head gaskets. This is due to corrosion of the bolt hole threads in the aluminum block. The head bolt threads pull out of the block and there is insufficient clamping force on the head gasket, allowing it to leak. This is of course more prevalent when driving as there will be more cylinder pressure pushing against the cylinder head. Sealants will not work to seal this type of leak because the combustion pressure will still lift the cylinder head and allow the combustion gases to force their way into the cooling system. The only real fix is to remove the cylinder heads and add steel threaded inserts to the engine block for the head bolts, then install new head gaskets.

The engine does have to come out of the car to remove the cylinder heads for this repair."

If my problem is not the bolts then the solution will work. If its the bolts then i will proceed.

MoistCabbage
11-26-13, 01:43 AM
Just be aware that any "block seal" product you pour in will likely leave a very difficult to impossible to remove mess in the block and cooling system components. Trying this before the proper repair may cost you more in the long run.

SpawnX
11-26-13, 04:12 AM
purge (vent) line is located under the beauty cover? Best way to unclog is to remove and stick a metal wire through the purge line?

MoistCabbage
11-26-13, 04:31 AM
The metal part if the line is under the cover. The part that usually clogs, however, is the hollow bolt/nipple on the water pump cover.

Have you diagnosed the problem as HGs or not?

Submariner409
11-26-13, 08:54 AM
SpawnX, Have you read the sticky posts and threads just above this thread ? - the ones on head gasket work, temp gauge function, fan function, and cooling system work.

I'll bet that neither thermostat was faulty. Did you test them in a pan of water on the stove, using a thermometer to check the beginning and fully open temps - 188 and 206 ?

Stop throwing parts at the problem, perform methodical diagnosis, and do a cylinder block exhaust gas test. Either "rent" the test set and fluid from a large parts store or use this -

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis75500.html

Ranger
11-26-13, 10:24 AM
"The common problem on these cadillac engines is leaking head gaskets. This is due to corrosion of the bolt hole threads in the aluminum block. The head bolt threads pull out of the block and there is insufficient clamping force on the head gasket, allowing it to leak. This is of course more prevalent when driving as there will be more cylinder pressure pushing against the cylinder head. Sealants will not work to seal this type of leak because the combustion pressure will still lift the cylinder head and allow the combustion gases to force their way into the cooling system. The only real fix is to remove the cylinder heads and add steel threaded inserts to the engine block for the head bolts, then install new head gaskets.

The engine does have to come out of the car to remove the cylinder heads for this repair."

If my problem is not the bolts then the solution will work. If its the bolts then i will proceed.
IF the HG's are leaking, the chances of it NOT being the threads are slim to none.

mjbrome
11-29-13, 03:14 AM
When you have the heads off DO NOT resurface! I was told by Tim Carroll himself over the phone when i bought my studs. (Owner opperator of Carroll Custom Cadillac.) There is not enough material there to do so, and the engine won't allow for any damage to happen. The engine shuts down cylinders (limp mode) that won't let it self destruct. He also said just to clean them up and put in the new valve stem seals. I went ahead and had them pressure tested too anyways but was fine. Kind of funny though beacause my heads were in the shop to do everything! I had to call the shop right away to tell them not to resurface. Luckily they hadn't got to them yet! Tim almost yelled at me. Was very stern on the subject. Coming from a guy that does it everyday I took the advice. Look him up on youtube also. Full instructions. *plug* :)

ksmay71
12-12-13, 05:20 PM
Just another update: I put ANOTHER can of crap in the coolant, the coolant-compatible stuff from K&W. Instructions include idling for 30 min. with heater on. Did so, and expected it to get hot. NO HEAT. I think I've clogged the heater core with the stuff.

So glad I live in AZ.

I don't recommend this stuff for ppl in cold climates.

Also, I'm at 9800 miles since my first fix.

RippyPartsDept
12-12-13, 05:56 PM
hmmm i wonder what post first mentioned that you'll clog heater/coolant passages with that stuff?

...

figures... it was Jake in post #13

Ranger
12-13-13, 12:51 AM
Sometimes you just gotta learn the hard way.

ksmay71
12-13-13, 11:11 AM
Thanks guys. I'm just going to keep driving the car as long as I can, along with practicing my hand at paint and body work (I fixed some paint damage on the front and rear bumper and I'm going to beat out the dent that totaled the car, then I'll fill it and repaint it). For my own benefit, mostly. It's a car that deserves to look nice, no matter how many miles it has left in it. I'll post some before/after pictures in another thread.

SpawnX
12-14-13, 05:52 AM
Update!:

I have not used k&w nanotechnology yet.

I cleaned the purge (vent) line. It was clogged on both sides sandy orange rusty looking. I used a drill and attached some steel wire and also guitar string. It unclogged the purge line connects to engine by throttle body. As i unclogged, water poured out from radiator. Had radiator drain screw removed due to freezing weather at night.

Took if for a spin after letting car on for 30 minutes+, drove fine, temp consistently at 1/2 did not go freeway. But when I came home temperature almost hit 3/4 hispeed fans turned on and it went fast down to 1/2. I am not sure why it hit 3/4 so fast it was about 2-3mins in drive idle waiting for sister to move car. I need to do another test drive all water cycles in the cooling system perfect now.

SpawnX
12-17-13, 12:49 AM
Took it for a test drive. Drove 18 miles no problem. Then Temperate hit 3/4 and would not go down.

04GrandAmGT
12-17-13, 10:00 AM
There is no magic fix to these headgasket issues, even inserts are too weak, when GM has to come out with a fix for there fix that still fails over time, obviously they are doing something wrong, your only choice from then on is over sized studs.

Ranger
12-17-13, 11:29 AM
There is no magic fix to these headgasket issues, even inserts are too weak, when GM has to come out with a fix for there fix that still fails over time, obviously they are doing something wrong, your only choice from then on is over sized studs.
Their only mistake was using the same size thread pitch as the original. Bigserts and NS300L inserts seem to do the job just fine. Sometime you just gotta wonder, what in the hell where they thinking?

SpawnX
12-30-13, 01:08 AM
I just used k&w nanotechnology on my 99 Eldorado etc.Followed bottle instructions and then took it for a ride with K&W sealant still in cooling system. Did not put that many miles on it and then emptied K&W sealant and let dry.

Took car for a test drive next morning. Filled with water.I tested the car good, I hit 3/4 three times but the gauge went down each time. Most time spent slightly above 1/2.

Question: If my head bolt threads had pulled out of the block, shouldn't it still have overheated?

My waterpump was in really bad condition. Most likely previous owner overheated with faulty water pump and damaged part of the head gasket.

Will try to update up to 1000 miles.

FOUND SOME DIFFERENT INSTRUCTIONS FOR K&W:

trustmymechanic:
I do not personally use the product as the instructions on the can say (been using it my way for years with a 75-80% success rate and its much easier)

My instructions for using K&W Block Sealer are:

1. Drain out all coolant from radiator as you possibly can.

2. Get a bucket and mix up the block sealer with tap water

3. Pour contents of the bucket into the radiator, top off with tap water

4. Then put 500 miles on the car as soon as you can

5. After 500 miles drain out the mix and reinstall coolant and water as needed

The seal should be permanent

You will NOT have boil over or freeze protection during this time period so please keep the engine from freezing and overheating.

And no, I do not remove the spark plugs or the thermostat as the can says.. Just the steps above.

MoistCabbage
12-30-13, 01:16 AM
The Northstar can run for 50 miles with no coolant. An overheat isn't going to ruin a good head gasket. Also, unless the water pump or tensioner pulley were seized, the pump was pumping, and didn't cause an overheat in the first place.

It will overheat again, don't worry.

Submariner409
12-30-13, 10:05 AM
It's not as if the head bolt(s) have literally come out of the block threads - a movement of .001" - .005" in the pre-stretched head bolt would be sufficient to unload the clamping pressure on a head gasket and allow it to begin to fail.

The kicker with the Northstar gasket failure progression is that, if the head bolt(s) are indeed compromised, you are trying to seal a moving target. My analogy is trying to seal the SanAndreas fault with concrete: It might hold for a while, but nature wins in the long run.

Philosophically, I am against patching up a car and then unloading it on an unsuspecting buyer without full disclosure ....... and there have been quite a few CF Northstar owners in just this situation over the years - Usually falling for the "Too good to be true" deal on a clean car on the front lawn or the Korner Kar Korral. They come to CF for help, we try to advise the best, most reliable repair, but the owner wants a "Cadillac" on the cheap, so they use chewing gum and masking tape to "fix" it. (and make no mistake about it - a block sealer is a BandAid, not a repair.)

SpawnX
12-31-13, 07:18 PM
Well I put 60 miles so far since k&w nanotechnology and I just passed SMOG.

04GrandAmGT
01-02-14, 12:45 PM
you would be very surprised of how many calls we get about customers wondering if our kit still works if its been big serted already and those failed.

yanosh
01-03-14, 02:45 PM
I blew my HG when helped a guy jumping his suburban.. car was running fine before.. my Cadillac repair guy who is one of the most honest repair guy in the area and only works on Cadillacs in a proper shop not out of the garage. told me up front that since the car has 160K (2002 esc eldorado) its not worth to repair it but have this solution that might or might not work.. he said i can opt to try it it if i want but it might not work at all, or might work for 2 weeks or he seen N*'s that ran with it for 2 years. so i made a decision to just go with it..he kept the car a few days, drove it tested it.. i have the car back already for 3 weeks put about 500 miles in it and it holds fine.. way i look at it is that i know i am running on borrowed time but every month i can get out of the car i can save more money for a new car.. i took it into carmax, they wanted to give me 1000 dollars for it ( not knowing the fix) since it runs fine i could sell it privately for around 2000-2500 since cosmetically in great condition with almost new tires .. but i cant do that to anyone im just not that type of guy.. so i take my chances if it dies on me i still can junk it for a few hundred dollars ..i take the risk....anyway so far so good.. will post back when it stops working or when i am ready to get an other car and it still working at that time..but i think if you dont have much money and you must have a car and have a good mechanic who you trust and you know the risks it might worth a try.. as i said only a few hundred miles but still running strong..but yes when it dies you cant repair it anymore..

Ranger
01-03-14, 09:46 PM
I blew my HG when helped a guy jumping his suburban.
Strictly coincidental. Jumping another car has absolutely nothing to do with HG failure.

yanosh
01-22-14, 01:25 PM
yes it might have been on the way out anyway..but it has stalled 3 times while trying to jump on high RPM..and after it started to over heat.. anyway..bar's stop a leak or whatever is the name still holding im passed 1000 miles with it already.. sometimes it goes over the middle to a half a notch but then in a few minutes it goes back when i guess the solution do its job.. but also im in Florida and its winter time so i dont face any serious heat yet.. by the time summer comes will be able to get an other car if it holds til then... just wanted to tell the forum that in some cases it might work for a while.. just like my repair guy said he saw northstars going even 2 years with it but also some didn't last more than a week or not working at all.. for the price it was worth it already ... after reading all the disappointments in this method i consider myself lucky .. but if you are like me that must have a car and cant afford getting an other one it might worth a try.. will keep update how long it will hold.. good luck everyone

maeng9981
01-26-14, 05:40 AM
but it has stalled 3 times while trying to jump on high RPM..and after it started to over heat..
That (stalling) should not have happened when you're jump starting. Probably 100% coincidental, unless you hooked up the cables backwards or made a short circuit.


sometimes it goes over the middle to a half a notch but then in a few minutes it goes back when i guess the solution do its job..
That's exactly how your temp gauge was supposed to work.

Do a block test to rule out or condemn head gaskets.

Since high rpm is mentioned, what I have noticed is that my engine overheated when brake-torquing with failed head gaskets. I haven't seen the temp gauge moving that fast towards H until then. The same-but-(properly)-repaired engine didn't do that. Something you can easily check.

ksmay71
02-11-14, 01:07 PM
Well guys, she's still going. It's been a while since I have posted, but we just passed 13,000 miles since the first fix. Just a recap:

At 98,000 miles, it started to sputter when I started it.

After a while, I started getting low coolant notices. Started buying a lot of coolant.

Then, it would regularly go into limp-home mode (SES light flashing, very little power) until I cleared codes, and then it would run okay for a while.

So I took it to a reputable mechanic, and he tested for exhaust in the coolant. Found it. So it was head gasket failure. He quoted me $3,100 for the fix. Since the car was totaled before this, I couldn't spend the money. So I used one bottle of non-coolant-compatible K&W (according to the instructions on the label) and I put in another can of coolant-compatible K&W when I put the coolant back in (yep, I'm that cheap. I reused my coolant. I figured I had already replaced most of it anyway because I had added over 2 gallons). Then it ran great for 8,000 miles. Until it didn't. Started to get the same old symptoms. So I popped for a huge bottle of the K&W coolant-compatible stuff (the one with "carbon" in it, different than the first coolant-compatible one I used). It took a while for it to work, but sure enough, it sealed it again. My water pump went out last month, and my heater core is clogged, but the car is still running strong.

And I mean strong. I don't think it's going to go out anytime soon. We'll see!

ksmay71
03-19-14, 01:55 PM
Update: Just passed 16,200 miles. It's been that long since the fix-in-a-can, and that long since I've run full throttle. I keep up with traffic no problem, I just don't ever go above 3,000 RPM or half throttle. Thankfully there's plenty of torque, and I can do that. What a car.

maeng9981
03-20-14, 06:55 AM
I just don't ever go above 3,000 RPM or half throttle.

That's just about killing a Northstar.

basscatt
03-20-14, 02:28 PM
Update: Just passed 16,200 miles. It's been that long since the fix-in-a-can, and that long since I've run full throttle. I keep up with traffic no problem, I just don't ever go above 3,000 RPM or half throttle. Thankfully there's plenty of torque, and I can do that. What a car.
------------------------------
aint buying it -

if the HEAD-GASKET-IN-A-CAN has worked for 16,000 miles -
then your head gasket problem was MISDIAGNOSED -
and you never had a head gasket problem to begin with -

Ranger
03-20-14, 02:44 PM
:yeah:

Submariner409
03-20-14, 03:51 PM
If you feel that you have to drive a roller cam Northstar like MY grandmother would, then you should really be driving an old Corolla or Escort, saving gas $$$ in the process.:lildevil:

ksmay71
03-20-14, 03:54 PM
------------------------------
aint buying it -

if the HEAD-GASKET-IN-A-CAN has worked for 16,000 miles -
then your head gasket problem was MISDIAGNOSED -
and you never had a head gasket problem to begin with -

Basscat, you still haven't responded to the first time I asked what other problem you think I had. I thought you gave up.

Well, here we go again. How else do you explain the limp-home mode, the loss of coolant, the pressurized coolant tank, and the exhaust gases in the coolant tank found by a professional technician?

And IF you have an alternative explanation as to what the problem was, how did applying fix-in-a-can and putting the old coolant back in fix it? That's the only thing I did. And it fixed the problem. So what other problems besides a head gasket leak could there have been?

Please, I'd love to hear it.

basscatt
03-20-14, 04:43 PM
Basscat, you still haven't responded to the first time I asked what other problem you think I had. I thought you gave up.

Well, here we go again. How else do you explain the limp-home mode, the loss of coolant, the pressurized coolant tank, and the exhaust gases in the coolant tank found by a professional technician?

And IF you have an alternative explanation as to what the problem was, how did applying fix-in-a-can and putting the old coolant back in fix it? That's the only thing I did. And it fixed the problem. So what other problems besides a head gasket leak could there have been?

Please, I'd love to hear it.
------------------------
without wasting too much of my time on your nonsense -
the most common misdiagnosis for a failed head gasket is a plugged PURGE LINE -

if you understood what caused the head gasket problems in a Northstar motor -
you would understand why I responded the way I did -

RippyPartsDept
03-20-14, 04:53 PM
i'd like to see what happens when you drive it north of 3,000 RPM

Ranger
03-20-14, 08:50 PM
A clogged purge line would not cause a block test failure. Maybe, just maybe, this one was a true HG failure that was not near the HG bolt and no coolant got into the threads. Then again, maybe you are on borrowed time. :noidea:

basscatt
03-21-14, 12:21 AM
A clogged purge line would not cause a block test failure. Maybe, just maybe, this one was a true HG failure that was not near the HG bolt and no coolant got into the threads. Then again, maybe you are on borrowed time. :noidea:
------------------------------
maybe -

BUT -
from the OP -
the exhaust gases in the coolant tank found by a professional technician?

the OP didn't do his own test -
some "tech" - who makes his living by repairing cars - did the test -

but we ALL know a "PROFESSIONAL TECH" would never lie -

so - HEAD-GASKET-IN-A-CAN must work - :worship:

--------------------

NOPE - :thumbdown:

still aint buying it - :bsflag:

maeng9981
03-21-14, 06:22 AM
Most "professional technicians" think all Northstars have failed head gaskets.

JoeTahoe
03-21-14, 10:18 AM
And most mechanics think they are junk and won't touch one with out a bank loan to fix it. But every one wants a miracle in a can to fix all.

04GrandAmGT
03-24-14, 04:26 PM
in certain instances you are able to drive thousands of miles with a failed HG, 90% of the time once your N* has overheated due to HG failure, there was probably failure few thousand miles before that where it had already been letting exhaust gasses in the cooling system. N* have a tendency to have very slight signs and slowly get worse and worse to the point were you cant drive more than a handful of miles without overheating. for very very very small seal leaks like the quick connect coupler on the 98+ N*'s i could see it possibly working but it just makes a mess of your cooling system, can result in plugged rad, Heater core, Nevermind the purge line on these cars have issues as it is from reg coolant without that garbage in it.

Submariner409
03-24-14, 07:08 PM
5 or 6 of us are working on a metallic liquid epoxy repair that will completely eliminate coolant and magic potions. You remove all traces of coolant, flush the engine cooling system with 6 gallons of lacquer thinner, allow to dry for 6 days, then refill the entire block with Momma's Magic Microscopic Metallic Mixture. Allow 3 days to cure. (You cannot drive the car more than 4 miles at a time, but there will be NO head gasket leaks - and no bolts will ever loosen again.) (Pat. Pending) Golden 90 Warranty - 90 seconds or 90 feet, whichever occurs first.

Ranger
03-24-14, 08:57 PM
I'm working on eliminating the HG's. :shhh:

vincentm
03-26-14, 12:31 AM
5 or 6 of us are working on a metallic liquid epoxy repair that will completely eliminate coolant and magic potions. You remove all traces of coolant, flush the engine cooling system with 6 gallons of lacquer thinner, allow to dry for 6 days, then refill the entire block with Momma's Magic Microscopic Metallic Mixture. Allow 3 days to cure. (You cannot drive the car more than 4 miles at a time, but there will be NO head gasket leaks - and no bolts will ever loosen again.) (Pat. Pending) Golden 90 Warranty - 90 seconds or 90 feet, whichever occurs first.

:yeah:

Submariner409
03-27-14, 06:55 PM
I'm working on eliminating the HG's. :shhh:

That's not as far-fetched as you might think. Ever seen 3,000 hp Chrysler hemis in AA Fuel or Chevy 327s with the heads lapped to the block (Think - lapping the valves to the seats) and stainless steel O-rings around each block cylinder hole ?

No head gaskets, folks .............

basscatt
03-28-14, 02:23 PM
That's not as far-fetched as you might think. Ever seen 3,000 hp Chrysler hemis in AA Fuel or Chevy 327s with the heads lapped to the block (Think - lapping the valves to the seats) and stainless steel O-rings around each block cylinder hole ?

No head gaskets, folks .............
------------------------------
ya - BUT - how much would that process add to the cost of each engine -
and would it last 100,000+ miles?

Submariner409
03-29-14, 12:31 PM
Lasts forever - trouble is, with the relatively thin cylinder sleeves in the Northstar I don't think there's enough "meat" to cut the O-ring groove.

04GrandAmGT
03-31-14, 01:18 PM
ive seen that on alot of diesels, know as "fire ringed" works Exceptionally well, they use it when your going 50+ PSI of Boost, problem is it works too well vehicle manufactures want things to fail, they make money on the sale of the car then in 10+ years they make more money with parts replacement. they want to always be making money not just from the sale of the car.

MoistCabbage
03-31-14, 02:47 PM
No manufacturer has ever made money designing things to fail. All that would get them is a bad reputation. Most HG failures occur well after the owner (or second, third owner, fourth owner) stops taking the car to the dealer anyway, so they're not the ones that would make money off the repair anyway.

CadillacLuke24
03-31-14, 03:15 PM
No manufacturer has ever made money designing things to fail. All that would get them is a bad reputation. Most HG failures occur well after the owner (or second, third owner, fourth owner) stops taking the car to the dealer anyway, so they're not the ones that would make money off the repair anyway.

:yeah:

Granted, I took my DeVille to a dealer bodyshop for my light pole oops, but generally everything else is self service.

04GrandAmGT
03-31-14, 04:12 PM
No manufacturer has ever made money designing things to fail. All that would get them is a bad reputation. Most HG failures occur well after the owner (or second, third owner, fourth owner) stops taking the car to the dealer anyway, so they're not the ones that would make money off the repair anyway.

im not talking about just HG failures, im talking Every single General motors front end products ex. wheel bearings and struts/shocks, tie rod ends. everybody knows GM vehicles go through them like biscuits and gravy at a Family gathering. they can make them stronger more reliable, look at ford there front ends are pretty solid, they last a good time yeah they still can wear out just like anything else but not nearly as much, Jake's 2010 its a 4 year old truck and it needs front wheel bearings for the second time and ball joints... my roommate has a 1997 Ford F-250 (yeah i know its a 3/4 ton) but still its got 880,000 KM (~550,000 Miles) factory front end never a wheel bearing done or even a tie rod end.

Submariner409
03-31-14, 05:15 PM
You can go back through EVERY automaker and EVERY model over the past 115 years and find good stories and horror stories on everything from engine widgets to rear axle thingys. NO automaker is immune.

NASCAR - and auto racing in general - has an incredible track reliability record - Why ?? Because the entire car is totally rebuilt every Tuesday. Completely rebuild your Cadillac once a month and then talk about head gaskets and wheel hubs.

04GrandAmGT
04-01-14, 09:32 AM
You can go back through EVERY automaker and EVERY model over the past 115 years and find good stories and horror stories on everything from engine widgets to rear axle thingys. NO automaker is immune.

NASCAR - and auto racing in general - has an incredible track reliability record - Why ?? Because the entire car is totally rebuilt every Tuesday. Completely rebuild your Cadillac once a month and then talk about head gaskets and wheel hubs.

you know what i mean, they could make things stronger and you know it

Submariner409
04-01-14, 09:51 AM
Sure - that's sort of like the America's Cup racing sailboat builder's creed: "If it doesn't break occasionally, it's too heavy !".

04GrandAmGT
04-01-14, 10:23 AM
auto makers need to stop being soo cheap! look at the Brand new caddys the ats feels like your driving a quiet Pontiac sunfire, go drive a pre 2000 Deville even now thats how a caddy should ride or like an 80's Caprice Brougham now thats comfort lots of room, little plastic as possible. and yet we pay more than ever for a vehicle, even taking (grr forget the word, everything gets more expensive, so wages go up) in account.

RippyPartsDept
04-01-14, 11:34 AM
inflation

04GrandAmGT
04-01-14, 01:16 PM
inflation


thats the one haha, hate it when those simple words seems to disappear from your mind

ksmay71
04-03-14, 07:48 PM
------------------------------
maybe -

BUT -
from the OP -
the exhaust gases in the coolant tank found by a professional technician?

the OP didn't do his own test -
some "tech" - who makes his living by repairing cars - did the test -

but we ALL know a "PROFESSIONAL TECH" would never lie -

so - HEAD-GASKET-IN-A-CAN must work - :worship:

--------------------

NOPE - :thumbdown:

still aint buying it - :bsflag:

Man, you just don't quit. This tech, who is the head man at his own shop, runs a sand rail with a 400+hp NA Northstar. He knows the engines inside and out. He did the test, and he found the problem. I don't have any clue as to why the crap-in-a-can has worked this long, but I'm not complaining. And you still haven't even hazarded a guess as to an alternative explanation.

MoistCabbage
04-03-14, 09:15 PM
Alternate reason - The gasket itself failed, and the head bolt hole threads have not. The breach in the gasket is being sealed by the mechanic in a bottle, because it is not a moving, ever widening gap. It will most likely fail eventually.

Didn't you say at some point that your heater core clogged soon after using the product?

rodnok01
04-03-14, 09:53 PM
im not talking about just HG failures, im talking Every single General motors front end products ex. wheel bearings and struts/shocks, tie rod ends. everybody knows GM vehicles go through them like biscuits and gravy at a Family gathering. they can make them stronger more reliable, look at ford there front ends are pretty solid, they last a good time yeah they still can wear out just like anything else but not nearly as much, Jake's 2010 its a 4 year old truck and it needs front wheel bearings for the second time and ball joints... my roommate has a 1997 Ford F-250 (yeah i know its a 3/4 ton) but still its got 880,000 KM (~550,000 Miles) factory front end never a wheel bearing done or even a tie rod end.

I'd take changing a wheel hub ANY DAY AND ALL DAY long over crappy parts on other car mfg's..lets say the world's shittiest transmission Chrysler put in for ohh I don't know 7-10 years. IF they lasted 50k you were lucky, 75 was unheard of. Try 125 bucks for a crappy foreign engine starter on a 4 banger, doors that close for crap after a few years... i have a LONNNNNNGGGGG list if you would like me to continue.

The OP sure seems happy his car may last a another day or three... WHEN it does pop it ain't going to be pretty and hope he enjoys paying extra.

04GrandAmGT
04-08-14, 11:45 AM
I'd take changing a wheel hub ANY DAY AND ALL DAY long over crappy parts on other car mfg's..lets say the world's shittiest transmission Chrysler put in for ohh I don't know 7-10 years. IF they lasted 50k you were lucky, 75 was unheard of. Try 125 bucks for a crappy foreign engine starter on a 4 banger, doors that close for crap after a few years... i have a LONNNNNNGGGGG list if you would like me to continue.



exactly what i mean, Every MF is going to have issues, but you would think after 25 years of the same wheel bearing lasting 60,000 miles if you got a good one, they would have thought of a way to make it a little stronger, even the northstar.... took them from 10 years to figure out how to "fix" head gasket failure, and even that was a band aid solution...