: 91 GMC Sierra, with a Northstar?



97EldoCoupe
06-10-09, 12:40 AM
The bank doesn't have enough faith in me, I guess, so I'm on my own with "truck financing".

My current truck, which I use to haul Cadillacs when I need to, is showing some age. The 350 TBI runs like a clock and is pretty good on fuel. The interior is great, low mileage, but the body could use some attention. It still drives great.

The VIN 9 Northstar has 295 ft. lbs. of torque. The truck has 3.73:1 rear gears and the common 700-R4 trans. It's a 3/4 ton truck, so it has the 14 bolt rear diff.

What do you guys think about a Northstar in the beast? I have no shortage of these engines. I want/need towing power and also some freeway passing power. We all know the Northstars can fly by almost anything at speed but I'm a bit worried about low-end torque for hauling 4000 lb cars.

I could build a 383 stroker for a bit more power but a Northstar in a truck is a bit different. It's been done, but there aren't many around. And the chrome Escalade rims that are already on it would be a perfect match.

The LD8 would probably be better for off-the-line performance.

I want to do this for a few reasons.

1. fuel economy- Northstars are great in this area
2. it's different. Not many trucks have a DOHC V8 under the hood.
3. hopefully more speed.
4. I love the old truck, it still handles great.

Obviously it would be installed longitudinally so headers would be a relatively easy job.

If I use an aftermarket ECM, supercharging would be very easy at this point. I don't think I have much of a choice but to go with an aftermarket ECM.

Any thoughts on this? Seems easier to just save up for a while and get a newer truck, but then again, I never seem to do things the easy way.

00ElderadoETC
06-10-09, 07:12 AM
I'm a bit worried about low-end torque for hauling 4000 lb cars..


Get a torque converter with a stall speed that starts in the N* torque range.

I was not aware you could put a 700R4 on the N* or that they even had a aftermarket ECM. Interesting.

Keep us posted on your progress if you decide to do this.


00

Aron9000
06-10-09, 07:27 AM
Unless you have a Northstar lying around, it really isn't worth it IMO. Just build a cheap 383 carbed motor for your truck. That's an easy 350hp/400lb-ft tq with a factory idle in that truck.

Submariner409
06-10-09, 09:28 AM
Truck = torque. The Northstar is a 280 C.I. engine that makes its torque way up in the rpm range. The SB/383 is set up for torque much lower in the powerband.

A high stall convertor will do nothing for truck power except overheat the transmission fluid from too high a slip ratio at low speed/high torque operation.

If you're set on stuffing a N* in a work truck, the best one would be the mid 90's VIN Y engine - it's already set up to bring the torque in lower down in the band, but it's still a little engine - a tad smaller than a '57 Chevy 283.

97EldoCoupe
06-10-09, 09:52 AM
That's just my dillemma. I need torque. Supercharging the N* would bring in the required torque. I don't see being able to decently haul a 4000lb car with a N/A northstar. Even the VIN Y engine. I think I'm stuck between a S/C Northstar or starting with a regular 2-valve V8.

Sub! Build me a 455 for that truck! :D

dkozloski
06-10-09, 03:05 PM
If you need torque in the low ranges you can do it with gears. The North* loves to rev and it sounds great doing it. There are many after market low/high auxiliary transmissions on the market. http://www.usgear.com/dual_range.htm

STSS
06-10-09, 05:04 PM
I'd love to own something with a N* in it and creeper first gear:stirpot:

97EldoCoupe
06-10-09, 07:45 PM
Very true. The truck has 3.73's in it already, which is pretty much the same as the STS's 3.71's. But the tire size. 265/65/17 I believe. I need something more like 4.10's and that gear-doubler.

Destroyer
06-11-09, 12:31 AM
That's just my dillemma. I need torque. Supercharging the N* would bring in the required torque. I don't see being able to decently haul a 4000lb car with a N/A northstar. Even the VIN Y engine. I think I'm stuck between a S/C Northstar or starting with a regular 2-valve V8.

Sub! Build me a 455 for that truck! :DI towed a GMC 1500 van the other day with my '00 Ranger w/3.0 over 60 miles. I think the N* can handle it (if it don't blow captain). Not worth the time or money but it would be cool to see..............from afar.

97EldoCoupe
06-11-09, 07:53 AM
Yeah, probably not worth the time or money. But it would make the Northstar Performance logo on the back window make a little more sense :D :thumbsup:

I think if the RPMs were kept up on the Northstar she'd do fine, even naturally aspirated. I know that the truck would do great with fuel economy unloaded. Or at least, I'm pretty sure.

The frame is rock solid on the old 2wd truck, needs a good body job though. I have an uncle who is the best bodyman I know. He's just not the best painter. That's where I come in.

Now - if I were to go with a 4 barrel and aftermarket crank triggered igniton, or even an Edelbrock EFI system, I could adjust the timing curves/fuel trim to exactly what I need. I thought about running an GM HEI ignition off the water pump drive but that's job in itself making that work and fit. I'd like to keep moving parts to a minimum anyway. The engine debuted with fully electronic ignition, why change that.

Roller heads, or the 93-99 style? The roller heads can be bolted to even a 1993 block. I still have forum member "Davz" block from his '97 STS- the one that had the failed _orm's inserts. Stud that one and install the '00 STS heads.... If I go that route I'm on my own with a custom intake. No problem there.

To supercharge, or not to supercharge, that is the question.....

Destroyer
06-11-09, 08:15 AM
To supercharge, or not to supercharge, that is the question.....Oh why not?:alchi:

Krashed989
06-11-09, 04:48 PM
I like where this thread is going! Just please take lots of pictures for us! :D

rsingl
06-11-09, 05:19 PM
Jake,

Since you are very good with "slightly problematic" GM engine designs, maybe you should transplant one of the 6.5 turbo diesels into your '91. They hold up pretty well in light duty towing work and the majority of problems were with the electronic control of the injection pump. I had a '95 GMC "light" 3/4 ton with the 6.5 and it never gave me any trouble. I sold it in 2001 and bought one of the 6.6 Duramax GMC trucks when they came out and one of the local farmers bought and ran my old truck for a number of years. I think he replaced the injection pump and water pump and otherwise it did fine. Mileage was around 18.5 to 19 unloaded (extended cab 4X4) and towing of course depended upon the load.

With the kind of quality work you are doing, if your bank credit isn't good enough you aren't charging enough!

Destroyer
06-12-09, 01:32 AM
Jake,

Since you are very good with "slightly problematic" GM engine designs, maybe you should transplant one of the 6.5 turbo diesels into your '91. They hold up pretty well in light duty towing work and the majority of problems were with the electronic control of the injection pump. I had a '95 GMC "light" 3/4 ton with the 6.5 and it never gave me any trouble. I sold it in 2001 and bought one of the 6.6 Duramax GMC trucks when they came out and one of the local farmers bought and ran my old truck for a number of years. I think he replaced the injection pump and water pump and otherwise it did fine. Mileage was around 18.5 to 19 unloaded (extended cab 4X4) and towing of course depended upon the load.

With the kind of quality work you are doing, if your bank credit isn't good enough you aren't charging enough!No, let him do the N* thing. It fits with his business plus I've always wondered how a N* would fare in a truck. Ford has proven itself worthy by sticking DOHC in trucks for years, why not see how a N* powered truck stacks up?. Even if it blows a H/G, it's no big deal for Jake.

Aron9000
06-12-09, 02:12 AM
I didn't know you were the headgasket guy. Definetly go for it:D

Also, how hard is it to swap the northstar from transversly mounted to north/south in the truck? Will your 700R4 trans bolt up?

I know this might seem crazy(and expensive), but would it be easier to start with a wrecked RWD STS or SRX?

AJxtcman
06-12-09, 10:42 PM
We can make this work. I need a Northstar connected to a 4L60E trans very badly.
R&D

97EldoCoupe
06-12-09, 11:31 PM
AJ you will be getting an email from me in a minute.

chp350
06-13-09, 12:04 AM
remember guys the northstar is a small bell housing pattern like the ones behind the 2200 engines in the s10...700r4 and the 4l60e come in both sizes

dkozloski
06-13-09, 01:55 AM
No, let him do the N* thing. It fits with his business plus I've always wondered how a N* would fare in a truck. Ford has proven itself worthy by sticking DOHC in trucks for years, why not see how a N* powered truck stacks up?. Even if it blows a H/G, it's no big deal for Jake.
Hall-Scott engines in trucks since the 1920s are OHC.

AJxtcman
06-13-09, 10:28 AM
remember guys the northstar is a small bell housing pattern like the ones behind the 2200 engines in the s10...700r4 and the 4l60e come in both sizes

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Shelby%20stuff/2f7c_1_1.jpg

AJxtcman
06-13-09, 10:41 AM
I can set it up for an old 700R4 also

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Shelby%20stuff/Shelby%20Tuning/trans.jpg

00ElderadoETC
06-13-09, 06:17 PM
Could this possibly be made to work with the Turbo 400 trans? I would love to build a 1984 Monte SS with a N* as the engine of choice.


00

AMGoff
06-13-09, 08:10 PM
For the life of me, I can't even fathom why you would want to do such a thing, that is - other than to just say you did for the "wow" factor.

The truck is still running right? If so, those 350s were designed to last forever... Just run it til it gives out.

However, if it does give out or if your simply wanting for more power... Then I can't see how a Northstar would satisfy you - you need something with tons of low-end grunt. If you're seriously contemplating the time, money, and aggravation to do so - especially if you're talking about supercharging it... Then hell, save yourself the headaches and just drop a big-block 427 into it... Instant 430HP and 440-some lb-ft of torque!

Then you'll really be able to tear up some tires... :yup:

97EldoCoupe
06-14-09, 12:37 AM
Yes, I agree with that... but.........

Everyone drops larger displacement engines in for more power. Everyone hot-rods the small block chevy. I've done it too. But... who puts a Northstar in a truck? I've seen one with a Northstar in a magazine. The only one I've heard of before, that, and a little sport truck posted on these forums.

Who's to say you can't get the same power from a 4.6 DOHC Northstar? It just takes more effort & time.

The 350 still runs perfectly. It just needs a little more power. It's reasonably fuel efficient, but I think a Northstar setup would boost the MPG somewhat as well.

Destroyer
06-14-09, 12:53 AM
350 Chevy is a better motor. For all the "engineering" that went into the N*, more power, performance and even mpg's could have been had if GM had simply stuck LT1's and LS1's in any car that came with a N*. Had GM made Cadillacs with RWD and Chevy motors I never would be without a Cadillac. The truck idea is cool but ONLY because you make your living working on these motors and, well, it would look good on you. Anybody else attempting or even thinking of this swap should probably go in for rehab.

AJxtcman
06-14-09, 02:58 PM
For the life of me, I can't even fathom why you would want to do such a thing, that is - other than to just say you did for the "wow" factor.

The truck is still running right? If so, those 350s were designed to last forever... Just run it til it gives out.

However, if it does give out or if your simply wanting for more power... Then I can't see how a Northstar would satisfy you - you need something with tons of low-end grunt. If you're seriously contemplating the time, money, and aggravation to do so - especially if you're talking about supercharging it... Then hell, save yourself the headaches and just drop a big-block 427 into it... Instant 430HP and 440-some lb-ft of torque!

Then you'll really be able to tear up some tires... :yup:

I have heard this over and over again. No Torque

I am seeing more and more Northstar's in old rod's.

The thing is once you have seen a 50's or 60's car with a junk yard Northstar in it and it moves out better than a junk yard 350 truck engine it changes your mind.

Remember I made a FWD (traction limited), 4470 lbs, all motor DHS run a 14.6 in the 1/4

This OE Application Specs
Truck Weight 3850lb (reg. cab short bed)
4001lb (reg. cab long bed)
4140lb (ext. cab short bed) ***** is this the one?
I find that the Small blocks 5.7L was rated at 210 hp and 300 ft-lb torque for that year

Now lets say this is conservately tuned and it make 350 hp and 320 ft-lb.
No argument please!

This is the wussy 00 engines not a 93 to 99
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/dyno/TorqueCurve-00.jpg

AJxtcman
06-14-09, 02:59 PM
Would that be another Northstar in the 13's?

AJxtcman
06-14-09, 03:05 PM
I give you the schematics so you can re-pin the PCM connectors, You pay find a PCM and ship it to me and pay for the shipping to you and I will build the program for free.
I need the PCM with service #9354896. it fits a lot of cars and trucks starting in 1999 and I think up to 2002.

Edahall
06-15-09, 10:25 PM
I would put in a healthy turbocharged 6.2 diesel. They are good for about 300 hp and 600 ft-lbs of torque and 25 mpg US. It however would shred the 4L60e to bits and pieces unless it was biefed up.

97EldoCoupe
06-16-09, 10:06 PM
AJ I haven't been back at this thread for a while. Deal. So we would have a PCM set up to run the Northstar with:

-no torque management
-no PK2/PK3 stuff
-better timing/fuel trim

More less a PCM set up to drive the engine at max. power output, regardless of vehicle inputs (ABS, speed sensors, rate of acceleration limiters) etc. More/less a PCM like what you have in your Fiero.

This would be PERFECT.

AJ do this and I will send you a free set of studs. Just let me know 93-99 or the 00+ for the studs. Much appreciated.

I'd still want the PCM to have fan relay outputs if possible. I'll be using the old style transmision (700-R4) but I believe the ECM still controls TCC on the '91 models, right? I don't think the 700-R4 in '91 had the 4th gear pressure switch to drive the TCC solenoid. Without an electronic speed sensor I don't think this can be made to work. Toggle switch TCC?

I won't be using the stock water crossover. The transmission adapter plate that I'm designing requires a remote mount electric water pump.

97EldoCoupe
06-16-09, 10:09 PM
I have a 1999 that I'm parting out. I will check the PCM service # first thing in the morning. AJ please email me your shipping address. A PCM will be on its way.

Submariner409
06-16-09, 10:24 PM
Why anyone would stick a 280 cubic inch mouse in a truck that needs a 454 elephant is beyond me.

AJ, as usual, is comparing apples and oranges, but I notice that he was careful to make his various truck engine swaps "stock", while tricking the little Northstar to the max. Old rods ?? Street weight ??? Gears ??

I don't give a hoot what it is, when you're hauling a LOAD at low to middle engine rpm's, there's no substitute for cubic inches. The Northstar will puke its guts out on the second car haul in a truck, UNLESS you gear the truck to a max speed of 25 mph in 4th.

97EldoCoupe
06-16-09, 10:27 PM
350 Chevy is a better motor. For all the "engineering" that went into the N*, more power, performance and even mpg's could have been had if GM had simply stuck LT1's and LS1's in any car that came with a N*.

Chevy small/big-block engines are GREAT engines. Can't disagree there. But the efficiency of the Northstar isn't bad at all. The LS1 makes 57BHP/liter and the Northstar makes 65BHP/liter. Keep in mind Cadillacs are heavier cars. I know a '98 STS that will stay even with a LS1 camaro, up to 140MPH, both stock.


Had GM made Cadillacs with RWD and Chevy motors I never would be without a Cadillac. The truck idea is cool but ONLY because you make your living working on these motors and, well, it would look good on you. Anybody else attempting or even thinking of this swap should probably go in for rehab. Totally agreed. I've been considering checking in for rehab as well, I just haven't had time lately :D

Destroyer there are many things that you and I agree on. Especially the RWD idea. The Northstar, on the highway, pulls very hard. The HG problem is a mix between bad coolant and a design flaw (thread size/pitch) Other than that, the reliability is superseded by very few engines. If I tore my 350 down right now I can almost guarantee there'll be a ridge at the top of the cylinders. About 120,000 miles on the truck. Take a Northstar with 200,000 miles. No ridge, no cylinder wear, no bearing wear, no worn rings, no warped heads, only head gaskets and bolt threads. And the odd camshaft.

97EldoCoupe
06-16-09, 10:45 PM
Hey Sub! 25 MPH in 4th? Perfect! You just gave me a great idea - my 52 Ferguson TEA-20 tractor isn't running quite right. Time to install a Northstar....

Yes sir, it may become a useless truck without a supercharger. I'm curious. If I have/get the time, I'm going to find out. If so, 455 it is. I KNOW those engines will haul @$$ even from a dig, in 4th, with TCC on. Probably still wouldn't be able to stall it out.

AJxtcman
06-17-09, 08:17 AM
Why anyone would stick a 280 cubic inch mouse in a truck that needs a 454 elephant is beyond me.



Why did anyone buy a 80's truck with a 305?
Why did they build V6 1500 4wd trucks?

AJxtcman
06-17-09, 08:22 AM
This is GM's OE setup for the Northstar Powered Shelby. It is for a 96 to 99 FWD Northstar in a RWD car or truck. This will work with a Manual or an Auto Trans, but at this time it the only E trans are GM's 4L60E and 4L80E. At this time it will not run the 4T80E trans

Submariner409
06-17-09, 09:39 AM
AJ, My F150 4x4 has the Ford 4.6 OHC engine, same size as a FWD Northstar. Perfectly adequate for a 4-speed mid-sized pickup truck. As is/are/were any number of other larger and smaller engines.

Jake is building a truck to haul CARS, not feed bags. If you're gonna take a 3,500 lb. truck and haul a 4,400 lb. car in it, you need GUTS.

Yes, some pull boats and trailers with FWD Northstar cars. Given the transmission and engine without the added trailer loads, why tempt fate ?? My point is that big cubic inches make more grunt at lower rpm. Just what a loaded truck needs.

STSS
06-17-09, 10:34 AM
Hey Eldo, what about sticking a second N* in the bed.
Front engine - front wheel drive
Rear engine - rear wheel drive

Kinda like the Twinstar:stirpot:

97EldoCoupe
06-17-09, 08:07 PM
The Shelby tune.... Ahh..... sounds like a plan.

Since GM went bankrupt, who wants to pitch in with me to buy GM's tooling to build the Northstars? We'll change the molds, and make some adjustments to the boring machines......The 500 c.i. DOHC Northstar....

Hey all we can do is dream.....

I've hauled amazingly large loads with 305s. My dad's old 83 Pontiac Parisienne had a 307 Olds (we did the swap) and we hauled a parts car just like it (3900lbs) and it hauled it extremely well. The 307 had 255 ft. lbs. with the 5A heads. It was a 1982 engine. 120 miles of driving, 55MPH, didn't feel like it had much of a load. This was with a tow-bar, not a trailer. Tire size was 205/75/15 with 2.41:1 rear gears, and the old 3 on the tree auto trans. I was surprised what that 307 did. Acceleration never was much good with 307's, but they had the torque to pull.

The Northstar will do it, I know, but acceleration might be a bit sluggish with a load behind. Trucks need good, durable engines that can haul. Agreed, Sub. But if a Northstar can be put in a truck, that regularly hauls loads, not overheat, and not leak oil, well, that might prove some points about these engines. And I think it would be cool.

AJxtcman
06-17-09, 08:29 PM
Lets do it

Submariner409
06-18-09, 05:52 PM
Absolutely no doubt it would be a head-turner.

I tend to look at just where torque and hp peak in the dyno curves when I'm doing cams and power tweaking......The SLS cams would give you more torque a bit lower in the rpm range. What if you advanced the entire valvetrain by 4 degrees ??? That might bring torque in even earlier.......

Between you and AJ it would be fun.......

AJxtcman
06-18-09, 07:12 PM
1999 Shelby 4.0L




Valve Timing (With Ramp at 0.100 mm Lift), Intake Opens

13 degrees BTDC


Intake Closes

73 degrees ABDC


Exhaust Opens

51 degrees BBDC


Exhaust Closes

13 degrees ATDC


Valve Lift, Intake

9.4 mm 0.370 in


Exhaust

8.6 mm 0.339 in


Duration (@ 0.100 mm Lift), Intake

266 degrees


Exhaust

244 degrees


Valve Overlap (@ 0.100 mm Lift)

26 degrees


Replacement CHRFAB 272 cams
The cams specs are:
-------- INTAKE ---- EXHAUST
lift ----- .396" ------- .396"
open --- 33 BTDC --- 43 BBDC
close --- 35 ABDC --- 1 BTDC

Destroyer
06-18-09, 09:34 PM
But if a Northstar can be put in a truck, that regularly hauls loads, not overheat, and not leak oil, well, that might prove some points about these engines.N* powered cars have a tough time retaining their fluids pulling the cars they are in, why would this be different in a big truck?. One thing is for sure, a N* in a truck would be MUCH easier to work on. :cool2:

Submariner409
06-18-09, 09:53 PM
AJ, Just who exactly gives a flying hoot about a Shelby cam spec sheet ???

CHRFAB whoopee-doo 272 degree bumpstick.......at .000" lift or .050" lift ??

I can make my cam look like yours - all it takes is a bit of valve lash adjustment to change the lift vs. opening specs.

If you want to jerk off on cam specs, go CompCams, Engle, Edelbrock, Lunati, MoJo .........all fun to read, but cam timings in and of themselves mean ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.

(A 272 degree at .006" cam is mild - mild - mild compared to some later offerings....................) and most high-torque/low rpm cams are currently advertised as 215 - 225 degree units at .050". A 270 degree plus is good for a power curve up in the rpm band - not a torque cam.)

AJxtcman
06-18-09, 11:19 PM
the cams specs for the Shelby are the same as the 300 hp VIN 9



AJ, Just who exactly gives a flying hoot about a Shelby cam spec sheet ???

CHRFAB whoopee-doo 272 degree bumpstick.......at .000" lift or .050" lift ??

I can make my cam look like yours - all it takes is a bit of valve lash adjustment to change the lift vs. opening specs.

If you want to jerk off on cam specs, go CompCams, Engle, Edelbrock, Lunati, MoJo .........all fun to read, but cam timings in and of themselves mean ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.

(A 272 degree at .006" cam is mild - mild - mild compared to some later offerings....................) and most high-torque/low rpm cams are currently advertised as 215 - 225 degree units at .050". A 270 degree plus is good for a power curve up in the rpm band - not a torque cam.)

Submariner409
06-19-09, 09:21 AM
OK, good - but you're the only person in this Forum that knows that - easier to just post the timing for a VIN 9 and VIN Y cam set - not that it would mean squat to a lot of people........and I still maintain that a VIN 9 Northstar tuning is not the way to go for a work truck engine. The VIN Y cams would be better, on a set of 2000+ heads (roller followers), advanced 4 degrees for low-end torque.

BTW - does CHRFAB advertise their cam timings at .000" lift or .050" (the industry standard) ? For those who aren't cam grinders, the different lift/timing measurements have a definite bearing on just what a cam really does when in dynamic operation - do some homework and read up on why those lobes are shaped differently for rollers and flat tappets, and what moving a cam timing with different drive gears can do. The two lift/timing measurement figures are for two things: the .000" figure is for advertising hype, the .050" figure is what the cam really does in the engine.

AJxtcman
06-19-09, 12:14 PM
Sorry Sub. I have a customer with the 272 cams and I am having some idling issues. That post was directly from an email. I should have explained why I was posting it and what my thoughts were

Submariner409
06-19-09, 12:21 PM
AJ, If I don't rag on you, who will ???

R U up North or down South ?

AJxtcman
06-19-09, 02:26 PM
AJ, If I don't rag on you, who will ???

R U up North or down South ?

Milwaukee yet. Life is OK. My Birthday is tomorrow ans the youngest is today. :crybaby:

Now why did I post that?


What if you advanced the entire valvetrain by 4 degrees ???

I was told by Alan @ CHRFAB something about the cams are actually off by 3 from the stock specs.

Stock VIN 9 -3 off of the number will give you what they really are
Intake
Opens 13 BTDC
Closes 73 ABDC

Exhaust
Opens 51 BBDC
Closes 13 ATDC

Alans 272 cams
INTAKE
open 33 BTDC
close 35 ABDC

EXHAUST
open 43 BBDC
close 1 BTDC

AJxtcman
06-19-09, 02:30 PM
Hey Sub would that be 4 or 7 from the actual timing?

I will find out if the spec are at 0 or .050

Submariner409
06-19-09, 04:38 PM
A LOT of cams are ground, new, with 2 degrees advance dialed in to compensate for timing chain wear/stretch. If you look at the Cloyes chain/gear kits, and a lot of others, too, they offer the ability to set the cam "straight up" (as ground), 4 degrees retard or 4 degrees advance. Some timing kits allow cam timing to be minutely varied over +/- 6 degrees. Fanatic type stuff, there........

Advancing a cam moves the design power and torque band down about 600 rpm, while retarding it moves the power band UP the same amount - where you would want it for high rpm track shifts.

The ONLY way to know what your new cam is really doing is to degree it at assembly - a 4 beer task that's worth its weight in gold. Sticking in a new cam straight up and slapping on the timing cover is like mounting a tire with no balancing: you may get some rude surprises. Yes, cams are stuck in as advertised every day - they're within the engine design tolerances, BUT they're not tuned for the max benefit from the dollars spent on the rest of the engine.

Hmmmmm........Alan's "272" cam, at .050", looks like the intake duration is 248 degrees (180+33+35) and the exhaust is 222 degrees (180+43-1). If that holds true, the stock VIN 9 has longer duration than the regrinds. Do the math on the stock VIN 9 units: 266/244.

(What all the math means is that those two sets of cams are ground for two entirely different engines, performance-wise and installation-wise.)

AJxtcman
06-19-09, 07:42 PM
A LOT of cams are ground, Hmmmmm........Alan's "272" cam, at .050", looks like the intake duration is 248 degrees (180+33+35) and the exhaust is 222 degrees (180+43-1). If that holds true, the stock VIN 9 has longer duration than the regrinds. Do the math on the stock VIN 9 units: 266/244.

(What all the math means is that those two sets of cams are ground for two entirely different engines, performance-wise and installation-wise.)

maybe he means 272hp?

Why do you think I posted that twice?
Maybe the guy that purchased then from Alan was given the wrong information? I have a copy of the forwarded email from Alan.

delatorre1986
06-19-09, 10:45 PM
Just buy this alot more advertising everyone will know who you are and what you do, nice big trunk for tools and a trailer hitch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/One-of-a-kind-Custom-1997-Cadillac-Deville-Delegance_W0QQitemZ320386254391QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ US_Cars_Trucks?hash=item4a98824637&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318