: Bad tweeters or wiring



Heide264
05-26-09, 01:58 PM
So after swapping in an old set (probably a good 15 years give or take 5) of Pyle tweeters into my 97 DeVille, I get no sound. I know the factory tweeters were a different resistance and all, but I dont' get a snap crackle or pop at all (not even a hum). Can't believe I didn't take the time to test them before wiring them in and mounting them.

However, I can simply pull the actual tweeter part front ways out of the mount after removing the grating without removing the entire door panel and rewiring everything.

I wanted to see if you guys knew a way to check if the tweeters were good without cutting stuff apart and such. I heard you can use a DMM and just read resistance across it, but won't the reading be way off due to having the door speakers and the oem hu in the circuit the other way around? Also heard about a battery test but don't want to try that with the hu being hooked in.

Kinda odd question but if anybody could let me know if the DMM test will work then I'd really appreciate it.

nicktime
05-27-09, 09:47 AM
If you want to use a DMM to check resistance/impedance of the tweeter, you should be able to. The tweeter should just have a high pass filter (capacitor) in series with the wiring. By checking right across the tweeter itself, you should get a stable reading after a few moments after the cap has charged. This is a non-Bose system, right?

Heide264
05-27-09, 02:44 PM
Yeah it's the non bose one. I figured the issue with reading across the tweeter is that the jbl 5.25 is in parallel with it and it would just go the other way around.

I think I thought of a pretty good plan though while I was sitting here. I have an old set of boston 701s (I think thats what they are at least) sitting around that may or may not be good. I am gonna go at them with an ohm meter and make sure at least one is good. I will just hold them onto the wire mounts for the pyles which I can get to easily, and then see if the bostons play that I am holding. Theoretically if all is good I should have two tweeters playing, and if I don't have any, its the wiring. Just the bostons would mean the pyles are blown.

...No filter cap on them actually. When my father had them in the acura they ran them full band due to the way it sounded with the jbls... half the reason I suspect they are blown.

nicktime
05-27-09, 05:04 PM
I was thinking that you replaced the factory tweeters, therefore, the factory crossover would still be intact. That would prevent reading across the mid-range driver. If they are truly in parallel electrically, I would definitely install a crossover to extend the life of both speakers. Not sure if links can be posted, but here's the address of a simple explanation so you can make your own for a couple bucks.

www.termpro.com/articles/xover2.html

For a quick test of the wiring, it seems like your plan should work just fine. Good luck.

Heide264
05-28-09, 08:43 AM
Alright so I surprisingly found both of the 20+ year old boston tweeters still working... No sound outta them when they were banana clipped onto the pyle wire mounts. So good news being that none of my tweeters are definitely blown. Bad news being the door has to come off again when I get around to it and the fun stuff.

Will make sure to fool around with a couple filter caps on them to prevent them from blowing out early too... after I get them playing something.

Thanks for the help.

Heide264
06-01-09, 10:52 AM
Just for the sake of completion I got the tweeters working.

The little plastic wire splices I used (where you push the pin down into both wires) were the issue.. Knew I shouldn't have used them. The factory wiring was too small for it and no connection was being made.

All is good now. Pyle's actually work really well with the JBL mid/low door speakers. Thought they'd be too harsh but its a good match.

Thanks for the help.

nicktime
06-01-09, 12:17 PM
Glad you got it all taken care of. I hate those splices, but they do work well for what they were intended when you have the right wire gauges. I usually use crimp or solder connections.

The other thing I did a while ago was get a complete WeatherPack Kit to remake any of the standard GM outside connectors. It's come in handy so many times during my last big project, I had to buy refills.

Thanks for the update, and I'm glad you can enjoy your tunes now.