View Full Version : $50 Shortshifter, Thanks Norm

05-20-09, 02:22 PM
Ok I thought I would share with you guys my Norm altered shifter. I copied Normís short shifter and hereís what I did or did differently. Parts you will need:

Stock CTS-V shifter - Free
Blue Electrical bushings - Home Depot - $.55
C5 Corvette Stock Shifter - Ebay - ($15-45) I paid $15
Rtv or Window weld tube of urethane - Advance auto parts - $12.00
Black Shock eye urethane bushings (Energy suspension) 9.8107 or 9.808 - AutoZone - 2 for 3.99
A 1" by 1" piece of square bar.

Tools: drill, long bolt about 1/2" about 3" long with nut and two washers (for turning down the shock bushings), hammer, caulk gun, various sockets, wrenchís for removal. 5/8 metal drill bit, Drill press, welder. Saber saw with metal blade. Benzomatic torch

Ok I didnít take pictures as I went (sorry) But I will give the step by step.

1.Remove stock shifter and disassemble bushings.
2.Replace arm bushings (tranny end) with blue electrical bushings using stock metal insert and zip tie to each arm to prevent falling off for install.
3.Using Benzomatic torch heat up the CTS-V stalk and it should slide off pretty easily try not to damage the rubber underneath because you will retain it.
4.Now using the sa-saw cut off the metal sticking out of the CTS-v Rubber stalk, about 1/2" long.
5. The hardest part of all. Using the Torch heat up the c5 stalk and it should come off fairly easily (too hot and it will POP spraying hot urethane everywhere). Then the hard part is the metal casing on inside of stalk. I boiled it, heated it, freezed it, and ultimately used a screwdriver and an air chisel to get it out, hence the reason it is a little beat up in PIC.
6. Now, tape up the bottom top of the C5 stalk with duck tape.
7. (I highly recommend gloves- latex- for this step) using your choice of Adhesive you will fill up the threaded end of the c5 stalk from the bottom. Once it is full (flashlight) proceed to smear you adhesive around the inside of the barrel/stalk. Then Slide it on the CTS-V shifter assembly, Let dry for 48hrs. I use the Window weld because it is urethane and is heavy; so it adds weight to the top of shifter making an easier throw.
8. Using your 1"x1" Square bar, (I used steel but aluminum would work too) drill 5/8" hole in it and weld to bottom of shifter. This is what actually makes it a shorter throw because you are changing the fulcrum point.
9. Take you drill and chosen bolt with washers and from bolt head to thread end it should look like this. Bolt head,washer,shock bushing,washer,nut. Insert into drill. Now find some sand paper or in my case some brick. Or if you have a lathe or something better use it. I machined it down to where it would fit in the shifter mount clamp and still left a "shoulder" to replicate the stock bushing. Ref pics. Then when you have it machined to where it fits inside the clamp, cut a slit down the side so it can wrap around the shifter arms. (I ended up cutting about 1/4" slit.) Then take a hammer and tap the clamp over the bushings.

Now reassemble and enjoy. The only bushing I didn't address is the very bottom one on the stalk, I am using the stock one because mine was in ok shape, but I plan to tape up one side and squeeze some urethane around the metal insert.


05-20-09, 03:05 PM
sweet i think this might be getting more and more popular ;)

05-20-09, 04:31 PM
Ah just another one to put in the file. :)

Nice to others building a better "mouse trap". Mines been working fine for 30,000 miles.


05-21-09, 09:16 AM
Well Norm was right, I installled it last night and it it's an awesome difference. Just clicks into gear, and I would say 40-50% less throw. I was worried about the bottom of the stalk hitting the driveshaft but no sweat, cleared it by 2 inches. Oh and added anoth step. I bought a 1/2" brass bushing from Ace hammered it in the bottom stalk hole with the crummy white bushing. Then I drilled out the shifter arm to 1/2". Assembled with some washers, a 1/2" by 3" clevis pin w/cotter pin, cut off excess. It was pretty tight at first so I hammered a flathead between the arm and stalk about an inch and now its just perfect. Oh and i went by Corvettes of Houston to look for a C5 knob, As I dug through this box of knobs, I found this black simple Steel pool ball. It wasn't as big as a cue ball though, and its painted a metallic black. No price on it. So i ask the guy how much he says you can have it, been there for years, and no one ever wants. I was like hells yeah!. The threads are recessed aways in so it makes it even shorter, but hey, in these times nothing beats free. So the knob adds no additional cost to the shifter :)


05-21-09, 09:45 AM
That looks like it does not stick out much above the cut out area for the shifter and boot. Or is it just the angle of the pic? If not the angle do you hit your hand on the edges of the trim / console? I kind of like it it just looks to short.

05-21-09, 09:53 AM
"How low can you go?" nice work! :)


05-21-09, 10:11 AM
That looks like it does not stick out much above the cut out area for the shifter and boot. Or is it just the angle of the pic? If not the angle do you hit your hand on the edges of the trim / console? I kind of like it it just looks to short.

That looks like about how tall the UUC shifter sits, just need a taller stock shift knob or a UUC knob to make it a little taller.

05-21-09, 12:58 PM

that looks really low compared to the Katech but it all comes down to personal preference in shifting effort


i thought this /\ knob added to much effort to shifting so i switched to the GTO knob for Daily driving.. but for the track :cloud9: perfect