I remember reading about some guys changing oil early, I did a search for oil and oil change and nothing came up so I am posting this question... please merge with appropriate thread if there is another one.


I remember reading that alot of you are changing oil early and its coming out pretty dark. I have almost 1000 miles on mine now and I want to change the oil.
This might be a silly questions but, I was wondering if the factory oil is some type of special break in oil or has some needed break in lubricant in it? Or can I go ahead and chnage it?

New cars no longer require any kind of special "break in" oil. They come from the factory with the oil that is recommended for all future oil changes in them. As far as early oil changes are concerned, it is a matter of choice. People that run their vehicle hard, tend to change the oil sooner. Some years back, Consumer Reports ran a test on identical taxicab fleets. They started the test with new engines in both fleets and all measurements taken and recorded. They changed the oil at 3000 miles in one group and ran the second group to 6000 miles without changing the oil. Both sets of engines were then dismantled and the measurements taken again. They could find no significant difference between the two groups. Obviously, if you do not run the vehicle at all, it will probably last a very long time. There is no thread, that I know of, on this subject.

Factory oil is Mobil one

I have the thread you're talking about bookmarked for when I break down and get my V, but spam filters won't let me link web addresses due to newbie status.

~Topper

I remember reading about some guys changing oil early, I did a search for oil and oil change and nothing came up so I am posting this question... please merge with appropriate thread if there is another one.


I remember reading that alot of you are changing oil early and its coming out pretty dark. I have almost 1000 miles on mine now and I want to change the oil.
This might be a silly questions but, I was wondering if the factory oil is some type of special break in oil or has some needed break in lubricant in it? Or can I go ahead and chnage it?

Here are some of the links:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2009/159227-just-got-amsoil-oil-filter-when.html

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2009/166428-quick-question-how-many-miles-before.html

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2009/163892-filled-all-3-holes-up-amsoil.html

Follow your owner's manual recommendations and go with your favorite name brand oil and filter. If the engine was supplied with a synthetic oil or blend, stick with that in the recommended viscosity. Contrary to popular belief, the engine manufacturer has a pretty good idea of what type oil is best for your particular engine. They're not interested in selling additives and snake oil - they're interested in your getting the best engine performance possible with the least warranty claims.

And who in the general population runs their car for 12 hours a day, virtually every day?

That test meant nothing compared to real world experience of engine warm up, cool down, warm up, cool down.

Consumer Reports, bah!

New cars no longer require any kind of special "break in" oil. They come from the factory with the oil that is recommended for all future oil changes in them. As far as early oil changes are concerned, it is a matter of choice. People that run their vehicle hard, tend to change the oil sooner. Some years back, Consumer Reports ran a test on identical taxicab fleets. They started the test with new engines in both fleets and all measurements taken and recorded. They changed the oil at 3000 miles in one group and ran the second group to 6000 miles without changing the oil. Both sets of engines were then dismantled and the measurements taken again. They could find no significant difference between the two groups. Obviously, if you do not run the vehicle at all, it will probably last a very long time. There is no thread, that I know of, on this subject.

Honda vehicles do use special break-in oil still. Not required, sure, but some manufacturers still do it. On the Acura forum I frequent, people have done oil analysis on that particular oil....

Our owner's manual doesn't say anything about break-in oil, so I assume that what's put in at the factory is what's recommended by GM. I say, change your oil early if you want, it's only better for engine longevity, though the factory intervals are there for a reason.

The description of the Consumer Reports test was provided for information only. Take it or leave it as you choose. You too, Frankma.

New cars no longer require any kind of special "break in" oil. They come from the factory with the oil that is recommended for all future oil changes in them. As far as early oil changes are concerned, it is a matter of choice. People that run their vehicle hard, tend to change the oil sooner..

Thx Ted! Although the oil looks decent, and I've been careful with breakin so far, there is still very minor black looking muddiness when I wipe the dipstick with a towel paper... I figure an early oil change won't hurt.


Thx for looking TopperH, awesome car btw, if its in the budget, I don't why people would buy anything else.

Thx ReadyAct... I knew I saw some stuff on this before! thx for the links.


Anonfrank, I thought there were some companies that still did that. Thanks for confirmation. I just wanted to make sure this car wasn't one of them.

Back in the day I used to break engines in with ND(non detergent)30 oil. With the tolerances of todays engines and the quality of oil that is now used, regular oil is perectly fine. For the first oil change 3k is fine. The dark color of the oil at 1k could be the assembly lube that is used to put the engine together with...not really a big deal honestly. But I am gonna say that this topic could probably be argued till yer blue in the face. Just be responsible and comfortable with your oil change intervals.

I'm not changing mine until the OLM gets to about 20%. Same thing I did with my 2005 STS, Corvettes, and Trailblazer SS. Never had a problem.

I change my first couple oil changes about every 1k miles. I'd have to say though that the single most important thing about a new motor is properly letting it warm up when starting the motor. Motor wear is mostly done on start up and if you flog the car cold you will score up the cylinder walls.

I change my first couple oil changes about every 1k miles. I'd have to say though that the single most important thing about a new motor is properly letting it warm up when starting the motor. Motor wear is mostly done on start up and if you flog the car cold you will score up the cylinder walls.

Good point. Since I went with the Auto (first Auto i've ever owned) I tend to use the starter all the time as I walk to the car. Typically I don't let it warm up for more the a min though. I also try to let the car idle for 30 seconds to a min when I park it before turning it off.

Motor wear is mostly done on start up and if you flog the car cold you will score up the cylinder walls.

I agree! I warm up the car for a minimum of 60 seconds before taking off, or 2-3 minutes on cold days, and I don't flog the car until it's close to proper operating temperature.

On both turbo cars i own/owned (porsche 996tt/300zxtt), if i don't warm up the engine, it simply doesn't run very smooth. I will notice vibrations in the clutch and shifter. And then the vibrations won't go away until the car is cooled down and then properly warmed up. My guess is the heat isn't properly distributed and the ecu is miscalibrated. So far the caddy has been smooth, i always warm it up, and i have to drive at least 5 minutes from home before I get to a point where I can stomp on it.

Hans.

I have yet to drive my car from a cold start with less than 3 minutes warm up, typically closer to 5. Even after that I won't get on the car for another full 5 minutes of driving or so. The cool thing is that this motor does come up to temp pretty quick. If it isn't a cold start I still let it sit for 30 seconds to let the oil get out of the pan and circulating.

I never turn the car off directly after a hard run, I will let it sit for a full two minutes to cool down and 15-20 seconds if I've been casually driving.

It might be over kill but it is cheap insurance IMHO.

Most recommendations are for gentle driving when cold, not idling. The oil pressure is pretty low at idle, and might not circulate that well when cold, though synthetic oil should be better in this regard. It's too bad there is no oil temperature gauge. It takes a lot longer to warm the oil up than the cooling system, and one shouldn't really get on it until the oil is warm. My M5 and all of my Porsches have oil temp gauges, and they are really useful.

Most recommendations are for gentle driving when cold, not idling. The oil pressure is pretty low at idle, and might not circulate that well when cold, though synthetic oil should be better in this regard. It's too bad there is no oil temperature gauge. It takes a lot longer to warm the oil up than the cooling system, and one shouldn't really get on it until the oil is warm. My M5 and all of my Porsches have oil temp gauges, and they are really useful.

Huh? The V2 doesn't have an oil temp gauge? That is odd. Have you flipped through the DIC?

No oil temp gauge. Oil pressure gauge has been moved there. Voltmeter is there. There is supposed to be a transmission temperature gauge, but my car doesn't have one, perhaps because it's a manual. The G meter is there too.

I think the oil temp in on the front guage panel....but no, us manuals dont have a temp guage for the tranny. You dont need to worry about tranny temps in manuals :yup:

There was an Oil temp guage and Transmission temp guage on my '05 V. Those are a couple of the guages that I miss on my '09.

Huh? The V2 doesn't have an oil temp gauge? That is odd. Have you flipped through the DIC?


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if you are interested in the transmission oil temp.

look in the owners manual, damn thing has all you need to know.

might even if anyone looked at owners manual to show where other things are, but that may involve looking at manual....

Always wondered why GM has those things...

for a fee I will transcribe on thumb drive, and make a reading book for the unwashed.

I think the oil temp in on the front guage panel....

That's a coolant temp guage.

Huh? The V2 doesn't have an oil temp gauge? That is odd. Have you flipped through the DIC?
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if you are interested in the transmission oil temp.

look in the owners manual, damn thing has all you need to know.

might even if anyone looked at owners manual to show where other things are, but that may involve looking at manual....

Always wondered why GM has those things...

for a fee I will transcribe on thumb drive, and make a reading book for the unwashed.

Seriously, who is this guy? I want to know.

From henceforth, I shall refer to you as The Man.

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if you are interested in the transmission oil temp.

look in the owners manual, damn thing has all you need to know.

might even if anyone looked at owners manual to show where other things are, but that may involve looking at manual....

Always wondered why GM has those things...

for a fee I will transcribe on thumb drive, and make a reading book for the unwashed.

Yes it says there is one but there isn't a transmission oil temp guage for the Manual cars!
It also says that our cars should have a coolant temp display in the DIC (yes I know we have the analogue guage for that) but it is missing as well!
The manual also states that "to avoid setting off the alarm by accident, always unlock a door with the transmitter. Unlocking a door any other way will set off the alarm."
This is false, as you can use the key in the key cylinder of the driver door to disarm the alarm (while not having the remote Keyless transmitter within range).
Yes, reading the manual is important, but verifiying the info is far more important!

Grasshopper,I have auto, so what others have, they need to read the V manual and see, what is there for their V . Reading I am told is fundamental, but some seem to avoid this obvious and rich source of V information. So, Grasshopper, the pebble is still here.

Read lean, revisit the V manual, and many may graduate to the level of owner 3rd degree.
Glad to be of service.

Grasshopper,I have auto, so what others have, they need to read the V manual and see, what is there for their V . Reading I am told is fundamental, but some seem to avoid this obvious and rich source of V information. So, Grasshopper, the pebble is still here.

Read lean, revisit the V manual, and many may graduate to the level of owner 3rd degree.
Glad to be of service.

Tell you what.. it's clear that you can read, however, comprehension just doesn't seem to be your thing. The V manual is the same manual for both Auto and Manual.
Forums such as this are for people with like interests (ie. the CTS-V) gathering in a common area to share information and learn from one another as well as help each other out. It's clear that that is what most people here are trying to do.. what's unclear is why most of your posts provide very little (if any) helpful value to the topics at hand.

I always read the manual when I get a new car. The manual states there is a transmission temp gauge, but my car has none in any menu that I can access. The manual makes no mention of the transmission choice in that section. It is good to know that other MT cars lack that gauge as well. There is no oil temp gauge anywhere, and apparently no oil level indicator or low oil level warning, which is really kind of chintzy ( this technology is old and quite mature). The G meter section says very little about this gauge, too, including how to reset it, or whether it records when the gauge isn't displayed (it does, BTW).

The owner's manual is shared with the base CTS, and as such can be very confusing and inaccurate at times. Plus, it's a revision of the '08 manual, so some features listed are no longer available, or one section says yes and another says no. The manual is also extremely thick and redundant at times, yet lacking things like shift points, tire pressures, and other important specs. While large, it's not a great document.

Manual says there is a backup mirror setting for the driver and passenger side mirror pivot down on reverse, I don't see that on my V...so some people are missing features.... probably because they didn't pay MSRP....lol just kidding </sarcasm>

Manual says there is a backup mirror setting for the driver and passenger side mirror pivot down on reverse, I don't see that on my V...so some people are missing features.... probably because they didn't pay MSRP....lol just kidding </sarcasm>

7777777&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&

more worn out stuff

no tilt mirror on V2

been discussed and complained about in full lenght

Hence the </sarcasm> it was all a joke....

Hence the </sarcasm> it was all a joke....

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I knew that :hmm:

Tee hehehe :p