: Recommendation on a 10" free air subwoofer



mrchris1979
05-15-09, 02:23 AM
Planning on replacing the stock BOSE sub with an aftermarket sub and amplifier. So far I've only been able to find a Kicker Comp 07C104 10" 4-ohm subwoofer from Crutchfield http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2067C104/Kicker-Comp-07C104.html?tp=111 Looks like this one should fit in the rear shelf nicely. Great sale price on this sub right now too. The RMS rating is a bit lower than I would like but anything should be better then the BOSE sub. Any other recommendation on a 10" free air sub that will fit on the rear shelf? Perhaps one that can handle a bit more power. I've never used a free air sub before so I'm hoping this will give the sound system a bit of bass improvement.

heavymetals
05-15-09, 02:57 AM
I use an INFINITY 1040W.

You still have to remove some of the ID to get it to fit.

mrchris1979
05-15-09, 04:28 AM
Thanks for the response. How much material of the ID did you have to remove and was your method of removal? I looked at your stats and saw another member had a similar question regarding your set-up. If you don't mind, I'll send you an E-mail and I would like to see your pics and wiring diagram as well. Particularly interested on how you spliced into the power wiring going to the fuse boxes under the rear seat for amp power. This should save me time on running wire all the way to the battery. I'll be using the DavidNavone LOC as well so hopefully the amp install should be a breeze. Just gotta find a 12v accessory trigger somewhere near the trunk so I don't have to mess with pulling the head unit.

mrchris1979
05-15-09, 04:44 AM
Well damn. Can't find the Infinity 1040W sub any where. It's been discontinued. Looks like I'll have to do settle with the Kicker Comp for now.

odla
05-15-09, 07:35 AM
take pics of your install i would like to do the same as you. thanks

calidave
05-15-09, 05:18 PM
You'll want a summing device instead of a regular LOC.. Try the JL Audio Cleansweep or the MTX RE-Q (or the Q5; get the Q5 if you ever plan to replace the door speakers). When you turn up the volume, both the head unit and the Bose amp mess with the sub channel. You don't want that in an aftermarket setup.

VforMe
05-15-09, 05:31 PM
I have a LOC and it works fine. I have a remote gain for the subwoofer amp so I can adjust sub volume wherever I like.

VforMe
05-15-09, 09:35 PM
Well damn. Can't find the Infinity 1040W sub any where. It's been discontinued. Looks like I'll have to do settle with the Kicker Comp for now.

I have a 10" Kicker Comp sitting in my attic in the box. If you want it I could let it go very cheap plus shipping. I will warn you though that I pulled it out of my wife's expedition after about 2 weeks because it suuucked. It was in a small box so maybe free air it would do better but I was not impressed.

c4ss
05-15-09, 11:39 PM
I have a JL Audio W6V2 in place of the factory sub. It is not open air though. It's in a box that bolts right up to the rear decklid. Sounds great. If you decide to go closed enclosure, it's a great sub to choose. I have 500 watts going to it through a JL amp, all through the factory nav unit.

mrchris1979
05-16-09, 03:56 AM
You'll want a summing device instead of a regular LOC.. Try the JL Audio Cleansweep or the MTX RE-Q (or the Q5; get the Q5 if you ever plan to replace the door speakers). When you turn up the volume, both the head unit and the Bose amp mess with the sub channel. You don't want that in an aftermarket setup.

Thanks for the advice. I didn't even think about the head unit and Bose amp messing with the sub channel especially since I was planning to just tap the LOC to the two wires going into the Bose sub. Didn't really want to make a big investment on the sub set-up so the Cleansweep will not be in the budget. I think an amp with a remote gain control should be tolerable.

mrchris1979
05-16-09, 04:01 AM
I have a 10" Kicker Comp sitting in my attic in the box. If you want it I could let it go very cheap plus shipping. I will warn you though that I pulled it out of my wife's expedition after about 2 weeks because it suuucked. It was in a small box so maybe free air it would do better but I was not impressed.

I plan on stopping by a couple local shops that will let me listen how a freeair sub sounds like. I am a bit worried that the Kicker Comp may not be the best to use but I am just looking for a little improvement for now. At least I can get the amp installed and upgrade the sub if it sucks that bad. I may get back at you when I decide to buy. PM me your selling price anyway.

mrchris1979
05-16-09, 04:03 AM
I have a JL Audio W6V2 in place of the factory sub. It is not open air though. It's in a box that bolts right up to the rear decklid. Sounds great. If you decide to go closed enclosure, it's a great sub to choose. I have 500 watts going to it through a JL amp, all through the factory nav unit.

Do you have any pics of your set-up? Interested to see the size of the enclosure and how it's bolted up to the rear decklid.

shadybx7
05-16-09, 06:31 PM
I have a JL Audio W6V2 in place of the factory sub. It is not open air though. It's in a box that bolts right up to the rear decklid. Sounds great. If you decide to go closed enclosure, it's a great sub to choose. I have 500 watts going to it through a JL amp, all through the factory nav unit.

damn, i was second inline for this system.:crybaby: we need a Jersey meet so i can hear that thing bump:bighead:

c4ss
05-16-09, 09:20 PM
Do you have any pics of your set-up? Interested to see the size of the enclosure and how it's bolted up to the rear decklid.


I don't have pictures of it up yet. The box hangs down just a few inches. You can see it from the rear when you open the trunk. Same reason I'm trying to practically give the factory Bose sub away I yanked out in its place. I'll take a few pics of the box/amp when I get a chance. Only pain in the ass is the cutting thats involved to fit a 10 inch sub into an 8 inch sub spot :helpless:



damn, i was second inline for this system.:crybaby: we need a Jersey meet so i can hear that thing bump:bighead:


The guy I bought it off of (Russel) in central Jersey said there was another Jersey guy real interested in his setup too. Guess I must have gotten in contact with him JUST before you did :rolleyes:. Sorry man! But yeah, when we all get together you can check it out. It sounds infinitely better than that Bose sub and is one of my favorite mods thus far :thumbsup:

mrchris1979
05-17-09, 01:00 AM
Did some research on the MTX RE-Q. For $129 that's actually an affordable summing device. Thinking about using it instead of the DavidNavone LOC. Any one else using the RE-Q? I was looking at the install sheet and wondering if I can just wire in the sub +/- inputs and not the left/right inputs since I only need to use it for my sub amp. Here's the sheet. http://www.reqsound.com/manual/MKC002562_re-Q_Installation_sheet.pdf

c4ss
05-17-09, 01:59 AM
Are you planning on using an amp to power it? I was told the sub will fry the factory amp :hmm:

verywhitedevil
05-17-09, 10:49 AM
so if go with the REQ, not Q5, I can utilize just the sub part of the device?? add a separate sub amp and whatever sub i can fit in the deck?? keep the factory amp running door speakers for now. sounds too easy

heavymetals
05-17-09, 01:10 PM
Here is what I added, mounted on the rear deck.

calidave
05-17-09, 01:53 PM
so if go with the REQ, not Q5, I can utilize just the sub part of the device?? add a separate sub amp and whatever sub i can fit in the deck?? keep the factory amp running door speakers for now. sounds too easy

Yes, but if you ever want to replace the door speakers I'd go with the Q5. It's only a few bucks more and will make life much easier when do you replace those door speakers.

mrchris1979
05-17-09, 06:51 PM
Are you planning on using an amp to power it? I was told the sub will fry the factory amp :hmm:

Definitely not using the factory amp. Probably a JL or Fosgate.

mrchris1979
05-17-09, 06:55 PM
Here is what I added, mounted on the rear deck.

Seriously heavy, you have been super helpful. Thanks man. Looking at the pic above, where are the speaker wires coming from the Kenwood amp going to? Are they directly routed to the door speakers or did you you connect them to the vehicle harness that leads to the door speakers? Hope that makes sense.

heavymetals
05-18-09, 02:59 AM
When I spliced into the harness, I just used the existing wires that already went to the speakers.

Basically I just added an amplifier(s) in series with the original BOSE outputs and replaced all the door speakers (JBL).

It ain't the "audiophile" hookup, but it sounds mucho better and the sub kicks.

mrchris1979
05-18-09, 03:48 AM
I see. That makes perfect sense. I've never installed an aftermarket amp besides to use for a sub woofer set-up. This is very good info.

mrchris1979
05-18-09, 04:05 AM
so if go with the REQ, not Q5, I can utilize just the sub part of the device?? add a separate sub amp and whatever sub i can fit in the deck?? keep the factory amp running door speakers for now. sounds too easy

I sent an E-mail to RE-Q http://www.reqsound.com/contactus.aspx in regards to this same question by just wiring in the sub part of the RE-Q and not worry about the L/R channels. It makes sense but the RE-Q may need the additional signal from the L/R channels to properly adjust the sub output or the Smart Engage control.

verywhitedevil
05-18-09, 08:03 AM
heavy, did you remove the Bose amp??

heavymetals
05-18-09, 01:17 PM
heavy, did you remove the Bose amp??

Nope.

Used the BOSE speaker outputs to drive the new amplifiers inputs (high level ) then took the new amplifiers outputs and spliced them into where I cut the harness.

Vecstasy
05-18-09, 11:02 PM
I know this probably doesn't help because you asked for a free air but today I had a JL 10W6V2 and a 1000/1 Alpine amp and I am in love with it. I also installed a remote bass knob so I can control the bass much easier. Man I must say what an awesome way to wake up this system!

mrchris1979
05-18-09, 11:59 PM
I bet that set-up hits hard. Well, not having much luck finding a free air sub that fits directly on the rear shelf. Don't really want to enlarge the hole either as I may have to put the stock sub back in when I sell the car. I am doing some searching for a slim set-up for now or a fairly small box that uses very little trunk space. Possibly mounting the box under the rear shelf as c4ss described. Hoping to use a 12" set-up too. With a baby stroller to go in the trunk and groceries, the last thing I want is a sub to get in the way.

Vecstasy
05-19-09, 01:07 AM
Maybe what you should do is get a custom fiberglass enclosure in the spare tire well. You could do a false floor on top of it and lose 0 trunk space. Just an idea.

heavymetals
05-19-09, 02:59 AM
Making the hole a little larger isn't going to keep the stock sub from going back in.

There is room in the trunk, but then you have to drive around with the rear seats down to hear anything, unless your just using the sub to beat on the car body.

calidave
05-19-09, 04:32 AM
Making the hole a little larger isn't going to keep the stock sub from going back in.

There is room in the trunk, but then you have to drive around with the rear seats down to hear anything, unless your just using the sub to beat on the car body.

Not if you power the sub properly. :D

c4ss
05-19-09, 05:28 PM
I know this probably doesn't help because you asked for a free air but today I had a JL 10W6V2 and a 1000/1 Alpine amp and I am in love with it. I also installed a remote bass knob so I can control the bass much easier. Man I must say what an awesome way to wake up this system!


Damn man, do you have all 1000 watts going to the sub? Because I have the same JL 10W6V2 in my car with a 500/1 v2 JL amp going to it and mine hits really hard. Can't imagine twice as much power going to it :eek:

Vecstasy
05-19-09, 06:25 PM
Actually I messed that up sorry. I do have a 1000/1 going to it but I mistyped. It is a 12W6V2. I have always had 10's and just decided to go with a 12.

c4ss
05-19-09, 09:16 PM
....Possibly mounting the box under the rear shelf as c4ss described. Hoping to use a 12" set-up too. With a baby stroller to go in the trunk and groceries, the last thing I want is a sub to get in the way.



Chris, here is that picture of my setup I said I would take for you. The box hangs down a few inches under the decklid. The amp is under my trunk mat.



http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo319/cass486/DSC00741.jpg


http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo319/cass486/DSC00743.jpg


http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo319/cass486/DSC00746.jpg

verywhitedevil
05-20-09, 09:12 AM
did anyone ever try the JL Audio 10IB4 Free Air??? seems like it should work.

QKSLVRTA
05-20-09, 05:52 PM
I have a JL Audio W6V2 in place of the factory sub. It is not open air though. It's in a box that bolts right up to the rear decklid. Sounds great. If you decide to go closed enclosure, it's a great sub to choose. I have 500 watts going to it through a JL amp, all through the factory nav unit.

That's what Im talking about I got a simular setup awaiting a new amp...

Mine is a JL W6V2 in one of the JL Ported boxes (Grey box red inner portion) cant remember what they call it

I am wanting to get a 500/1 for is did have a e1400D running it in the old blazer

QKSLVRTA
05-20-09, 05:55 PM
Damn man, do you have all 1000 watts going to the sub? Because I have the same JL 10W6V2 in my car with a 500/1 v2 JL amp going to it and mine hits really hard. Can't imagine twice as much power going to it :eek:

If I remeber right I think that sub is only rated at like 600 but I am sure like with all JL equipment it can handle way more

nmaier2201
05-21-09, 11:39 AM
So not to ahhh :horse:

But in my quest for a main sub to replace the BOSE 8" My buddy has a 12"..... eeek I know 12" but he's pretty much giving it away. and it weights 2lbs less than the 10" JL Audio I was debating on putting in there.


So the question is (since I'm at work w/o a tape measure) can I cut a 11.25" mounting hole in the deck to replace the 8" stock hole

and now I'm going to hit the search button a few times

uwood
05-21-09, 12:48 PM
So lets see if I got this right.

1. You can replace the factory 8" sub and use exsisting amps.
2. Replace existing 8" and use the high level inputs with an aftermarket amp (that has gain control)
3. Go the whole 9 yards with the clean sweep or something like that. (I have no idea what those things are and need to research)
4. Take it someplace and let them figure it out and install it.

VforMe
05-21-09, 03:42 PM
So lets see if I got this right.

1. You can replace the factory 8" sub and use exsisting amps.
2. Replace existing 8" and use the high level inputs with an aftermarket amp (that has gain control)
3. Go the whole 9 yards with the clean sweep or something like that. (I have no idea what those things are and need to research)
4. Take it someplace and let them figure it out and install it.

1. No, only if you wanna fry the factory amp
2. Yes, probably cheapest solution and will sound good if you just wants some more bump.
3. Yes, little more expensive but will set you up for future improvements to stereo
4. Yes, but its gonna cost you about twice as much as if you did the research and did it yourself.

nmaier2201
05-21-09, 03:42 PM
I'm taking a page out of Heavy's book. I'm using the Bose outputs to a JL amp that allows for speaker level inputs.

Everyone has done 10" subs... and I have a couple spec'd out that I can use.... my buddy has a 12" ...but the mountins hole is 11.25"

I'm not sure if this is possible or not..... someone had to see if it was possible...... someone.... anyone?

I'd check tonight w/ a tape measure, but I can't wait that long... I need to give him an answer ASAP.

uwood
05-21-09, 03:56 PM
2. Yes, probably cheapest solution and will sound good if you just wants some more bump.


Ok so then with this option, do you take the high level inputs post Bose amp or pre amp?

VforMe
05-21-09, 04:18 PM
Ok so then with this option, do you take the high level inputs post Bose amp or pre amp?

High level inputs would be post Bose amp. Pre amp would be a gamble given the fact that you don't know what level GM and Bose used for the inputs on the factory system. If you don't have an amp with high level inputs you can get a LOC (Line Out Convertor) at just about any place that sells car stereos like Best Buy or Circuit City. This will turn the high level coming out of the Bose amp into a preamp level you can plug into your amp.

nmaier2201
05-21-09, 04:18 PM
post bose..... aka cut the wire from the bose amp to the bose sub and use as high level imput into amplifier

NOTE: Pry best to only do this for subwoofers, as a summing device would be better for the rest of the speakers... aka JL cleansweep or MTX Re Q or similar.

nmaier2201
05-21-09, 04:19 PM
awww you beat me to it!!!! so seriously is there enough landscape for a 11.25" hole or not? :) :

VforMe
05-21-09, 04:21 PM
post bose..... aka cut the wire from the bose amp to the bose sub and use as high level imput into amplifier

NOTE: Pry best to only do this for subwoofers, as a summing device would be better for the rest of the speakers... aka JL cleansweep or MTX Re Q or similar.

:yeah:

LOC's are good for sub's but would not be good for highs and midrange.

VforMe
05-21-09, 04:22 PM
awww you beat me to it!!!! so seriously is there enough landscape for a 11.25" hole or not? :) :

I'm at home, I'll go measure...give me a few minutes.

VforMe
05-21-09, 04:33 PM
Measuring from the bottom(because I'm not taking out both car seats to get the carpet off the back deck) it looks like there is a "square" that the circle of the sub is in. That measures approx 12inch x 12 inch so as long as there isn't something running across the top in the way you should be able to fit a 12 in there.

uwood
05-21-09, 05:10 PM
Well this just opened up a whole 'nother round of things I want to do. My wife is going to kill me.

Thanks all for the help. I have done a few stereo installs, but none with the Bose system. Damn thing scared me. Guess it is time to go shopping for some more stuff.

nmaier2201
05-21-09, 05:26 PM
I just went out to my parking garage at work with a piece of cardboard paper w/ marks on it from our plotter.... 12" might work.... keyword is might. I think it's too much and too close.... so I have to go along with everyone else and state that a 10" is the biggest you should add in that stock sub location.

The depth is a killer as well... most really high power high end subs are ~6" deep...... that's a lot of wasted space in the trunk... I'm going to look for one that maybe isn't as high wattage and a little more shallow so I can build a small tube box around it. ~4" is my target, I'm looking for a 300 watt RMS sub... I'm confident I'll find one.

I got a JL Audio G4500 amp in the mail as well... sweetness

heavymetals
05-21-09, 05:35 PM
You might check here:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=456

nmaier2201
05-21-09, 05:47 PM
You are a good man Heavy.

heavymetals
05-21-09, 06:27 PM
Thanks, your welcome.

Vecstasy
05-21-09, 06:56 PM
Too bad this sub doesn't come in a 10 inch. It would be really interesting to see how it performed. I have always been a fan of JL Audio. I think they make the cleanest sounding subs.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=30

VforMe
05-21-09, 07:04 PM
Too bad this sub doesn't come in a 10 inch. It would be really interesting to see how it performed. I have always been a fan of JL Audio. I think they make the cleanest sounding subs.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=30

Some others make it in a 10 including MTX.....

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/subwoofers/IndexTThin.cfm

Vecstasy
05-21-09, 07:06 PM
Personally I have never been too impressed with MTX.

c4ss
05-21-09, 09:18 PM
Too bad this sub doesn't come in a 10 inch. It would be really interesting to see how it performed. I have always been a fan of JL Audio. I think they make the cleanest sounding subs.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=30


If you want clean, clear, bass there really is no substitute for JL in my opinion. I'm very impressed with my W6V2. Go JL.

gtg732w
05-22-09, 01:14 PM
I would agree with the consensus, JL has some very well engineered subs.

I'm not sure off-hand if the JL W7 series will fit in the slot you are looking at, but the 10W7 should rock your world :)

It might help to go listen to a few of these setup in a store somewhere and to get feel for the sound too.

Just some thoughts.

mpunklil
05-22-09, 01:40 PM
pioneer makes a shallow mount as well. do any of you even know how the theile and small parameters on a sub help you decide what you want and size of a box you will need to make? if not, dont just go and buy a random sub. pioneer 12" shallow ~4inch deep will fit fine in the rear. port the box into the cab, and you got something that will out slam homeboys overpriced JL w6. Its not entirely what you buy, its how you tune it. Sealed boxes suck, stay away from them. They are just easy to make and "clean" which is a bunch of b/s to me. Ported is still clean, yet will give you that extra slam on the low end. I have an orion cobalt in my ranger with a tuned ported box, maybe 150w RMS going to it...and people get pissed off that they're two twelves cant hit as loud or as low

heavymetals
05-22-09, 01:50 PM
My $0.02.

If I wanted to make an "audio shrine" I would not have bought a V :helpless:.

I did want to "improve" on the stock BLOSE so I went the route I went and I don't regret it (spent the real money on engine mods) :sneaky:

As it is, with the B&B exhaust system the bass gets augmented pretty well but unfortuneatly it doesn't keep time (LOL) with the music.

The stock subwoofer doesn't even make a good door stop and it had to go.

Natedog
05-22-09, 02:12 PM
if you want something that is excellent quality and less expensive than the mainstream brands, go with Elemental Designs subs... ive had two of them now and they are outstanding... great for mounting free air as well... im gonna be putting my 12" in the rear deck soon... i've been saying that for 3 months now :/
http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_21
The 11Ov.2 would be a great replacement and would perform like one of the MTX or JL subs costing ~300
or
The 11Kv.2 at 90 bucks is a killer deal IMHO... requires low power and has a mounting depth of 5"
Both require a mounting diameter of 9.125"...

mpunklil
05-22-09, 02:21 PM
+1 on the elemental designs. dealt w/ them before