: 1st gear fix?



Mearl
05-14-09, 10:47 AM
I recently bought an 04 with apporx. 85K on it. The clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate were replaced by the old owner less than 15k ago.

I know these transmissions can have issues going into 1st at a stop sometimes, but mine won't go in atleast 50% of the time. I know the tricks to get it in but I hate seeing a green light and am still messing around trying to get in gear while everyone is pulling away.

Just wondering what if any fixes there are for this issue? any upgraded parts available that may help?

Bueller
05-14-09, 11:10 AM
Short shifter helps in every gear.

Mine got much better when I changed the trans fluid to RP synchromax. Change the fluid out to any good synthetic and you will notice a difference.

There is no cure for this so sometimes when mine is stubborn I just start off in second. There is a thread from a few days ago that talks all about it.

Rey
05-14-09, 11:13 AM
Your clutch may not be fully disengaged when the pedal is depressed. Check fluid level, bleed clutch line.
There are several aftermarket vendors who specialize in upgraded T56 transmissions. If the foregoing does not work suggest you call them.

lollygagger8
05-14-09, 11:22 AM
Seems like a no brainer, but shift into 1st while the car is still moving before you come to a complete stop.

Mystical_Ice
05-14-09, 11:27 AM
Your clutch may not be fully disengaged when the pedal is depressed. Check fluid level, bleed clutch line.
There are several aftermarket vendors who specialize in upgraded T56 transmissions. If the foregoing does not work suggest you call them.

that seems to be the cop-out on our cars... if there are any transmission problems, the clutch is automatically blamed first.

TO TEST THIS:
put the car in 1st gear (or reverse may be better). keep your foot on the clutch (i.e. keep clutch disengaged). make sure you're on a flat surface. release your foot from the brake. rev the engine to 3500RPMs gently.

If the car does not move forward, then you do not have a problem with your clutch not fully disengaging.

I have the same problem bud, and it turned out to be a shift fork.

darkman
05-14-09, 11:35 AM
that seems to be the cop-out on our cars... if there are any transmission problems, the clutch is automatically blamed first.

TO TEST THIS:
put the car in 1st gear (or reverse may be better). keep your foot on the clutch (i.e. keep clutch disengaged). make sure you're on a flat surface. release your foot from the brake. rev the engine to 3500RPMs gently.

If the car does not move forward, then you do not have a problem with your clutch not fully disengaging.

I have the same problem bud, and it turned out to be a shift fork.

Well, if you go to the Transmission Diagnosis section of the GM Service Manual it tells you to run the Clutch Diagnosis troubleshooting chart first.

Additionally, many of the shifting problems reported on the forum seem to go away with the first item on the clutch diagnosis troubleshooting chart - which is the clutch fluid level in the clutch master cylinder.

Some of the time the shifting problems, of course are caused by the transmission.

Mystical_Ice
05-14-09, 01:02 PM
i still think if anyone has trouble only shifting into 1st, that's more than likely not the clutch. i can understand if he has trouble shifting into any gear from a stop, but just 1st? i dunno

of course yeah, i'd check the clutch master cylinder fluid first :)

Mearl
05-14-09, 03:18 PM
The first thing I did when I bought the car was install a B&M shifter, didn't help much... I have already performed the clutch test and its fine. I also checked the clutch fluid before.

The problem with shifting into first before you stop is then you are stuck sitting there with your foot on the clutch through out the entire red light...:crybaby: my leg gets tired

I will try running some royal purple in it. If that doesn't do the trick I will have to look into replacing the shift fork.

Can this be done without completely rebuilding the trans?

darkman
05-14-09, 04:24 PM
The first thing I did when I bought the car was install a B&M shifter, didn't help much... I have already performed the clutch test and its fine. I also checked the clutch fluid before.

The problem with shifting into first before you stop is then you are stuck sitting there with your foot on the clutch through out the entire red light...:crybaby: my leg gets tired

I will try running some royal purple in it. If that doesn't do the trick I will have to look into replacing the shift fork.

Can this be done without completely rebuilding the trans?

You can replace only the shift fork (whatever the defective part turns out to be), but much of the labor cost is in getting the transmission out of the car and apart on the workbench. It would make sense to replace all the worn aparts.

Tremec upgrades these units pretty frequently so just installing some later parts will make it better. And, as pointed in the first response above, there are several vendors that can upgrade some parts with aftermarket pieces and give you back a much improved transmission.

Mearl
05-14-09, 04:32 PM
I will have to see what my options are in Ohio as far as reputable shops go. Taking out and re-installing the trans is no problem for me. I just get nervous messing with anything in the trans itself, probably better left to the professionals...

Anyone know of any shops in Ohio that work on/upgrade the T-56??

darkman
05-14-09, 04:51 PM
The one that gets discussed most often on this forum seems to be RPM Transmissions (RPMTransmissions.com) out of Daleville, Indiana. (not Ohio, but perhaps within reach).

C66 Racing
05-14-09, 11:56 PM
If you have done the simple checks on the clutch, I'd go for the simple tranny fluid change first. Based on reports I have and those that I've seen, most tranny fluids shear down very quickly (on the order of 5-10k miles). I currently am using AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Product%20Bulletins/ATDPB.htm) (product code ATD1G) which has no viscosity modifers and is totally shear stable.

If fluid doesn't help, then you are obviously looking at a harder fix (and bent shift forks are common in the Tremec trannies which is why some gears work and some don't). :cheers:

nmaier2201
05-15-09, 12:00 AM
C66 I'm about ready to move that ATF out and put in some torque drive... does it really only come by the gallon? You wanna PM me a price w/ shipping to chicago?

Mearl
05-15-09, 12:16 PM
c66 I would also like to know the price. I was originally going to use royal purple but I see alot of people on here have used amsoil and liked it.

For some reason I can't send pm's yet, I guess I need to start posting about my vanity plate ideas and speeding tickets to be able to use this feature....

C66 Racing
05-15-09, 12:29 PM
Dropping you both pricing info (turns out I couldn't PM either of you so I posted "messages" to you - please let me know if you get them).

And yes, the Torque Drive only comes in gallon containers. Actually turned out to be pretty handy. I put my car up on Rhino ramps and was able to get my AMSOIL Hand Pump (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Product%20Bulletins/G2039PB.htm) on the bottle under the car. Since the tranny takes about 3 1/4 quarts, the gallon jug meant I didn't have to swap the hand pump from bottle to bottle four times.