: My Clutch Nightmare



MicoJones
05-09-09, 01:32 PM
Hey all. Hoping that someone can provide some input on what the hell is going on with my car since no Cadillac dealership seems to be able to. I had an original post on this issue back in September and thought that the problem was fixed back then...Boy was I wrong!

Here's the scoop. About a year ago when sitting in traffic, I engaged my clutch as I was rolling to a stop and the pedal remained on the floor. I freaked out and pulled it back up but it appeared to have lost all the pressure. Trying to avoid stalling or hitting the car in front of me I frantically started pumping it with my hand and/or foot. System regained pressure but as soon as I had to stop again the pedal dropped out. I quickly realized that I couldnt yank the shifter back to neutral so I had to pump it again. Luckily I was right next to my exit and was able to get the car home with it only happening a few more times. All systems seemed fine as soon as I turned the car off and everything worked perfectly. I half ignored because there didnt seem to be an issue anymore.

About a month later driving down the higway and I hit traffic. Again rolling to a stop in 2nd and then shifting for 1st, the pedal sticks. This time it seemed to be much worse. I got the car off the highway and there was no fluid in the reservoir. Also noticed that the diaphragm on the cap had a large tear in it. Car was towed and ultimately had the slave cylinder replaced under warranty.

Everything worked without a hitch for about 6 months until the beginning of April. Again driving in traffic and repeatedly using the clutch, the pedal stuck. And again he fluid level was fine. To be safe I had it towed in but was told by the dealer that they "could not duplicate the issue" and they therefore could not repair anything. I knew immediately that this was just like the first time that it occured and I had about a month before it failed altogether. Surely enough, last Tuesday it happened. I got the car off the road but noticed that the fluid was still full. I called for a tow, this time making sure that the clutch pedal remained in the down position so they could see it with their own eyes. Dealer told me last Friday that they were again replacing the slave and I would see the car Monday. On Monday they called to ask if I wanted to pay for a new clutch because they had the tranny apart to replace the throw out bearing. I guess at some point after replacing the cylinder and it not working they determined this to be the probem, which def made more sense. I declined on the new clutch because the service guy said mine was only "slightly worn". Car was done Tuesday and ready for me to pick up. When I first drove it the pedal seemed very soft, but I blamed it on the new bearing.

Thursday came and when driving home from work I had a nervous feeling about how the pedal felt. About a half mile from home and the Fu*$&^# thing sticks again! I got the car back to my house and called for a tow again making sure that the pedal stayed down. Dealer called me yesterday to say that they could not identify the problem. We argued for a good 20 minutes about whether or not it was the same issue as described in TSB #1645348 Re:Clutch sticking at high RPM's. I explained that it could not be the same problem since mine only occured at low RPM's. He then told me that I had the same clutch noted in that bulletin but that he would not replace mine under warranty because I was having different symptoms. He then said "I have already recommended that you replace the clutch". I went off because the guy never TOLD me to do the clutch only asked if I wanted to, making it seem as though it was a favor since the tranny was apart and I would save on the labor. He recommended that I either replace the clutch or use a synthetic fluid, neither of which he could guarantee would resolve the issue. Prick even had the nerve to say "Use a synthetic like I do in my 700 HP hot rod, I never have clutch problems"!!! He told me that I would have to get the car and he could not do anything with it unless I wanted to pay for a new clutch, but with no guarantees. I declined and picked the car up. It drove home, but not without me questioning the feel of the pedal (it is now very soft, expecially the first 2 inches or so) Last night I figured I would try and take it out for a ride. First stoplight I hit the pedal stuck again. Now my car is sitting outside of my house and I don't even trust it enough to drive it...

Sorry to be so longwinded everyone, to say the least this is the most stressful experience I have had with this car yet (and there have been enough problems) Anyone know what the hell is going here??? Any input is greatly greatly appreciated!!! Thanks all.

darkman
05-09-09, 01:52 PM
How many miles do you have on this clutch?

mpunklil
05-09-09, 02:19 PM
just subscribing, im quite interested in what the issue is when it gets fixed :)

ctsv154
05-09-09, 02:27 PM
If your fluid remains at a constant level during all of this it could be you master cylinder. If the master is letting fluid escape past the internal orings it wont leak. It will just loose all of its pressure. It sounds to me that the clutch is not the issue but rather a hydraulic issue.

MicoJones
05-09-09, 03:22 PM
Bought the car with 39K and it now has 57K. I have never replaced it and figure that it is the original.

When it it is working it still very tight. If the clutch is worn to the point that it needs replacement wouldn't it slip?

CTSV154, the service manager claims to have rebuilt the entire hydraulic system.

heavymetals
05-09-09, 03:32 PM
Just because it was rebuilt does not mean that it was done right.

Your clutch may need to be replaced now because of scoring.

Sorry bout your problem(s)

The Tony Show
05-09-09, 03:56 PM
The problem is definitely hydraulic, not clutch. That being said, the lack of proper pressure in the system may have damaged the clutch during this whole ordeal, but you need to fix the hydraulic problem before you go there.

I'd consider bleeding the whole system multiple times, as your problem sounds like a large air bubble somewhere in the system. Every time it gets to the right place, the slave has no return pressure and the pedal bottoms out. If you're not losing fluid, it has to be either the slave cylinder, master cylinder or air in the system.

ctsv154
05-09-09, 04:10 PM
Ask your service manager specifically if they replaced the master cylinder for the clutch. They never work on cars with manual transmissions so he probably thinks the slave is the entire hydraulic system. The master is attached to the clutch pedal and is the what forces the slave to do its job.

I'm really surprised that nobody has ever complained about that. You know, master and slave. Makes sense when you think about it.

MauiV
05-09-09, 04:18 PM
I try to stay away from "Cadillac Only" dealers and take mine to a place where the techs see some Vettes/Fbodys come through. We cant all have Luke and Will at our disposal.

heavymetals
05-09-09, 05:08 PM
There is also a return spring assist, so the pedal shouldn't get "stuck" to the floor.

rand49er
05-09-09, 06:04 PM
Sounds like you're getting excellent advice from the guys above.

I had a clutch-pedal return spring break and found it laying on the floor under my feet. Clutch pedal action didn't feel any different, however. I drove to the dealer, and they replaced the whole clutch pedal assembly. Not saying that's the problem; I think it's hydraulic like the others here, but in the unlikely event that it's a compound issue, that'd be another possibility.

Haven't heard of this one before. Hope this gets fixed, 'cause you've certainly shown a lot of patience so far. :yup:

YoshiV
05-09-09, 06:49 PM
There is also a return spring assist, so the pedal shouldn't get "stuck" to the floor.

That's not really true, if the clutch does not help push the pedal back the spring will not return the pedal by itself...trust me I've had a replacement clutch pedal assembly loose in my hands, once fully depressed the spring will not return the pedal by itself.

I'd have to say that the seal on you master clutch cylinder piston is bypassing causing a loss of pressure on the slave cylinder which will of course cause your clutch to not function and the pedal to stick to the floor.

MicoJones
05-09-09, 06:59 PM
The pedal does not get stuck, it drops to the floor from a loss of pressure. It can easily be pulled back up with your toe, and almost naturally returns from the return spring. If you can manage to pump it 3-4 times before the car stalls out or you hit the person in front of you it will regain pressure. BUt as soon as you need to disengage again it goes. Point is the spring seems fine

I have noticed that if the car sits for a little while, it works fine following that. I also noticed that the shifter appears to get tight and squeaks when changing gears right before it happens. Now I can almost predict when it's coming which is becoming more and more often.

Took it out for a ride just a little while ago and it didn't act up initially. At first the pedal was tight and felt fine. After about a 1/2 mile and a couple stop lights the first 2" of pedal had no resistance at all. I could literally tap the thing with my foot and it was slapping back and forth. Beyond the first 2" it felt fine but it was enough to make me nervous. I turned around and came home.

Lucky me, sounds like I'm the only one in the god damn world with a V that has this problem. Thanks for all the good info guys, would love to get some more feedback if anyone has ideas. Where's the Lindsay guys when I need them?

YoshiV
05-09-09, 07:04 PM
Dude the master cylinder is toast...if the seal on the piston is bad it would likely cause your shifter to get tight because there is not enough hydraulic pressure on the slave to fully release the clutch, you're actually shifting with the clutch partially engaged and if the seal is bypassing your pedal will be like jello...no effort to push it in, pumping the pedal is just moving fluid from one side of the master piston to the other. It probably gets worse as the hyd fluid warms up causing it to get thinner.

heavymetals
05-09-09, 07:11 PM
That it works ok after sitting screams AIR BUBBLE in the line.

The whole system needs to be flushed, and probably a few times at that.

NormV
05-09-09, 07:43 PM
I think the spring is there, on my C5 it fell off, for give a consistent action for the length of the pedal movement. It is not really needed but keeps the pressure constant when releasing the clutch.

Sounds like a bleeding is needed. The air bubble will expand when hot.

Norm

ctsv154
05-09-09, 10:51 PM
My money is on a bad master. I've never heard of a clutch being perfectly fine and then go completely to the floor without pressure without a failure of the orings. My slave did the same thing before it went south. Act perfect and then it started getting hard to get out of gear until the pedal stuck to the floor. Worse when hot, all the same symptoms but I was loosing fluid, thats why I new it was the slave. A failure of the master will start the same way only you wont loose the fluid because its bypassing into the reservoir, unlike the slave which will bypass in to the bell housing and hence you have a leak. It will also progressively get worse with time as the oring gets chewed up.

One thing to watch for is little chunks of black rubber in the reservoir. That would be the oring coming apart. If you have that, you are definitely hard broke. If not, that doesn't mean your not broke, but having the chunks of rubber is fo shizzle a sign of oring failure.

MicoJones
05-10-09, 12:21 AM
Gotta agree on the master cylinder...Found this post earlier on a website.

Q. How do I know my Clutch master cylinder is not working or broken?
A. Sure tell signs that your clutch master cylinder is not working correctly is when you press the clutch pedal, it does not return and simply sinks to the floor without disengaging the clutch. Also, leaks from either the rod exiting the clutch master cylinder or the actual clutch master cylinder itself are sure signs that your clutch master cylinder needs replacing

Other stuff I read makes it sound as if the fluid might be leaking through the center seal and back into the reservoir when I first push the pedal. Hence why I am not losing any fluid.

I pulled my service reports from all of the work that has been done on the hydraulics. At 49K miles the master and slave cylinders were replaced. At 57K miles only the slave was replaced along with the throwout bearing. Sounds as if the master should have been replaced this time as well. I'm gonna take pleasure in bringing this to light with the service guys on Monday. Thanks for everyone's input, this has been driving me absolutely nuts.

Any thoughts on why they would fail in only 8K miles time? Is there something that could be causing it?

mpunklil
05-10-09, 04:19 AM
Gotta agree on the master cylinder...Found this post earlier on a website.

Q. How do I know my Clutch master cylinder is not working or broken?
A. Sure tell signs that your clutch master cylinder is not working correctly is when you press the clutch pedal, it does not return and simply sinks to the floor without disengaging the clutch. Also, leaks from either the rod exiting the clutch master cylinder or the actual clutch master cylinder itself are sure signs that your clutch master cylinder needs replacing

Other stuff I read makes it sound as if the fluid might be leaking through the center seal and back into the reservoir when I first push the pedal. Hence why I am not losing any fluid.

I pulled my service reports from all of the work that has been done on the hydraulics. At 49K miles the master and slave cylinders were replaced. At 57K miles only the slave was replaced along with the throwout bearing. Sounds as if the master should have been replaced this time as well. I'm gonna take pleasure in bringing this to light with the service guys on Monday. Thanks for everyone's input, this has been driving me absolutely nuts.

Any thoughts on why they would fail in only 8K miles time? Is there something that could be causing it?

yeah the dealer put in trash for parts. i wouldnt take my car back to that dealer based on the experiences you have had w/ them. sounds to me like they are running a sweat shop

ctsv154
05-10-09, 11:23 AM
Some parts are just bad from the factory or have a defect that causes them to fail early in life. My slave was replaced under warranty and less than a year later it failed again.

MicoJones
07-14-09, 09:51 PM
Had to drag up this post because after a short time of no issues at all the clutch has acted up 4 times in the past 3 days...everytime its a result of using the clutch extensively, either in traffic or city driving conditions. Hoping that one of the Lindsay techs responds. If anyone else has any ideas as to what the issue could be please weigh in! I'm starting to lose my mind with this one.

nmaier2201
08-09-09, 05:02 PM
Hey I swear I'm not digging up old threads. !!

So I had my slave start dragging, and I had a boil over of clutch fluid once or twice, Then I had the clutch pedal drop out at medium RPMs or after LOTS of stop and go traffic... so I got the LS7 setup from Luke. Now my slave doesn't drag anymore, but my system still has old fluid in it (I incorrectly assumed they had to bleed it when replacing the slave) I can't bleed it since my remote bleeder didn't work with the LS7 slave :(

Now the problem I had before with the pedal dropping out after medium RPMS (~4000RPMS... not 6000+ like in the TSB) is still happening AFTER the LS7 swap. It sucks that I can't bleed it to rule that out ( but keep in mind the slave has new fluid in it, and I can still do the turkey baster... so it's not a total loss)

The only component I didn't swap out is the master! So I made a quick video just so MicoJones and everyone else can see what's happening... WTF is going on?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InRVUfpoYVg

Medium RPMS and the clutch drops out and stays out for hours... but it does come back and get pressure if you let it sit for hours... it's got to be the master right?

Anyone know where I can get a cheap master? anyone replace one?

darkman
08-09-09, 05:24 PM
You may be able to bleed the thing - see the TSB I found.

Rock Auto has master cylinders for the 2004-2005 ranging from $118-$128, but no listing for the 2006 CTS-V. Next stop Luke?

Are there any internal clutch pieces that you did not replace?

ctsv154
08-09-09, 05:31 PM
I replaced mine about a month ago. Its a pain in the ass. The manual says you just turn it and pull it out once everything is disconnected. Well I had to unscrew the line that goes to the slave because it would hit the brake booster when you rotate it in the direction the manual states. I tried the other way and the line from the reservoir hits. Now once its installed, getting that line back in and tight is nearly impossible. I had the headers out of the car and that is the only way I was able to do it. I also unbolted the brake master from the booster to get enough room to get in there and turn it. It is a royal pain in the ass if there ever was one. This is one I would let a dealer do if I had to do it again.

Maybe my car is a freak because the manual makes this look easy and never mention any of the hoops I had to jump through to change this thing. Maybe you will have better luck than I.

nmaier2201
08-09-09, 05:44 PM
Yeah I didn't get a hit for my 06 at rock auto either.. I contacted fparts and I'm going to PM 03blwn281... since he knows people at cleveland pick a part.... I'll try Luke as well.

So if I'm reading that TSB right... basically I'm plugging my mighty vac in and putting enough vaccum on it to collapse the hose and get more fluid out right? That's really what it's stating... unless I'm reading it wrong.

Thx again Darkman

nmaier2201
08-09-09, 05:45 PM
I replaced mine about a month ago. Its a pain in the ass. The manuel says you just turn it and pull it out once everything is disconnected. Well I had to unscrew the line that goes to the slave because it would hit the brake booster when you rotate it in the direction the manuel states. I tried the other way and the line from the reservoir hits. Now once its installed, getting that line back in and tight is nearly impossible. I had the headers out of the car and that is the only way I was able to do it. I also unbolted the brake master from the booster to get enough room to get in there and turn it. It is a royal pain in the ass if there ever was one. This is one I would let a dealer do if I had to do it again.

Maybe my car is a freak because the manuel makes this look easy and never mention any of the hoops I had to jump through to change this thing. Maybe you will have better luck than I.


Ugh that sounds horrible.... thx so much for letting me know.

darkman
08-09-09, 05:58 PM
Yeah I didn't get a hit for my 06 at rock auto either.. I contacted fparts and I'm going to PM 03blwn281... since he knows people at cleveland pick a part.... I'll try Luke as well.

So if I'm reading that TSB right... basically I'm plugging my mighty vac in and putting enough vaccum on it to collapse the hose and get more fluid out right? That's really what it's stating... unless I'm reading it wrong.

Thx again Darkman

Yeah, the way I read the TSB is that you just use suction. It probably works better here than in a brake fluid application because this hydraulic system is so small.

Once you get past fluid the major candidates for that pedal problem (based on the manual) is the pressure plate (both conditon and adjustment-they did adjust it didn't they?), the master cylinder (that you are already looking into) and the pedal mechanism itself. Proper operation of the pedal mechanism itself relies on more than just the spring (which is not all that strong anyway). It also depends on its bushings being in good condition. A lot of stop and go driving could presumably have worn them to the point they are sticky.

The fact that you problem varies with temperature does however, point back to the hydraulics.

nmaier2201
08-09-09, 06:47 PM
yeah I can't believe that I have a inch of slop at the top of the pedal as well... never really had that before either. I'll check into the pedal mechanism.. hadn't really thought much about that. I don't think that I have a binding problem.. it's a loss of pressure because of heat and aggravated by higher than "normal driving" RPMs

darkman
08-09-09, 06:50 PM
yeah I can't believe that I have a inch of slop at the top of the pedal as well... never really had that before either. I'll check into the pedal mechanism.. hadn't really thought much about that. I don't think that I have a binding problem.. it's a loss of pressure because of heat and aggravated by higher than "normal driving" RPMs

Did you install a new pressure plate?

nmaier2201
08-09-09, 06:54 PM
Did you install a new pressure plate?

Yup, flywheel clutch/plate and slave... I only left the original master.... hindsight might turn out to be 20/20 on this one

darkman
08-09-09, 06:58 PM
Yup, flywheel clutch/plate and slave... I only left the original master.... hindsight might turn out to be 20/20 on this one

Well you do have a better clutch than before, or will have once you get the external actuation perfected.

ewill3rd
08-10-09, 09:54 AM
There is air in it.
The pedal travel and lack of return is because there is an air bubble.

I asked that guy to be sure to swap the bleeder screw from the old unit onto the LS7 slave but I be they didn't do that.
You are in a world of hurt if that is so.
The LS7 comes with a little stubby bleeder that won't make it out of the bell housing.
Even though this is a quick connect setup and the unit comes filled, I still bleed them after assembly.
No sense in not replacing the upper fluid (in the MC).

I think the hose routing might be a small factor here but the primary issue is the bleeding.

lollygagger8
08-10-09, 11:16 AM
I guess I need to check these posts out more often.......

Nmaier: the Tick Shift bleeder didn't work? <- Just wrong fittings, or what? Can they send you the right ones? Who installed your clutch? Take it back there, and make them bleed the system.

cts154: Did the no pressure pedal problem go away after your new master cylinder?

Darkman: what "adjusting" are you talking about? what needs adjusted?


UPS tried to deliver something on friday but I missed it......I think it's the Hendrix Clutch! (of course it comes when it's 93 degrees with 99% humidity) :(

ctsv154
08-10-09, 11:35 AM
No my problem still persists. I believe my problem to be the pressure plate itself as I have replaced everything but that.

darkman
08-10-09, 11:36 AM
Darkman: what "adjusting" are you talking about? what needs adjusted?

See the attached pdf.

PISNUOFF
08-10-09, 11:39 AM
Lolly: The pressure plates are self-adjusting but the service manual recommends to compress the springs and adjust it all the way out prior to installation. I really doubt that happens too often though. They come set pretty much in the middle of the adjustment range.

edit: Yeah, what Darkman just posted.

darkman
08-10-09, 11:39 AM
No my problem still persists. I believe my problem to be the pressure plate itself as I have replaced everything but that.

In the days before hydraulic clutch actuation - i.e. mechanical clutch linkage - a pedal intermittently sticking to the floor was essentially always a pressure plate problem.

PISNUOFF
08-10-09, 11:41 AM
Swapping the pressure plate fixed mine last year!

lollygagger8
08-10-09, 12:11 PM
I knew they were self adjusting, but didn't know they should be adjusted outwards like that prior to install. I thought they would adjust themselves automatically. I guess I'll have to do that when I get it in.

darkman
08-10-09, 01:09 PM
In re-reading the Service Manual the procedure for adjusting the pressure plate does NOT appear on the list of steps for the installation (replacement) of the entire clutch. It is rather only referred to in the trouble shooting chart shown/paraphrased below:

The checklist in the service manual for Clutch Pedal Spongy Low Pedal Effort, such that pedal may feel spongy, or requires very little effort to operate, is as follows:
1. Air in Hydraulic System- Bleed the system.
2. Master cylinder fluid level low- Inspect for leakage in the master cylinder, hose connections, and clutch actuator. Repair or replace faultly components.
3. Incomplete pedal return-Inspect pedal for full return. Clear obstacles that may interfere with pedal operation. Replace clutch pedal return spring. Adjust clutch pedal position switch.
4. Clutch incorrectly installed- Replace clutch assembly.
5. Clutch mounting bolts loose or broken- Remove broken bolts. Replace broken or loose bolts and tighten.
6. Clutch pressure plate not adjusted- Adjust clutch pressure plate.
7. Release bearing worn or damaged-Replace release bearing.
8. Contaminated hydraulic fluid- Inspect the clutch hydraulic fluid for contamination of moisture. Inspect reservoir cap for being faulty if moisture is present. Inspect the clutch hydraulic fluid for dirt or debris. Flush and bleed the hydraulic system if th above dirt or debris contamination is found.

ewill3rd
08-10-09, 07:15 PM
He told me they pretty much refused to bleed the clutch.

That pedal behavior is exactly what I see when I haven't bled one right. They don't leave my shop like that when I work on them that is for darn sure.

nmaier2201
08-10-09, 10:13 PM
I guess I need to check these posts out more often.......

Nmaier: the Tick Shift bleeder didn't work? <- Just wrong fittings, or what? Can they send you the right ones? Who installed your clutch? Take it back there, and make them bleed the system.

:(


Yeah so the Tick Shift is a really nice remote bleeder, but the fitting that screws into the slave was too thick... it looks good at a first glance... and unfortunatly that's all I gave it! So yeah wrong fitting.

I am taking it back there. It was a slight miscommunication on the phone and a bad assumption on my part that they were bleeding it... I had it in my head that when they put the remote bleeder on or swapped bleeder screws they would bleed it.. Well the old bleeder screw was compatible, but didn't clear the bell housing so they left the C6 bleeder in there blocking my access to bleed it... short on lift time and such.... having the wrong remote bleeder really screwed me.


I'm going back again and we are going to set it straight, and replace the clutch master just to be sure... I think they realized it was both our faults so they are giving ultra discounts on labor to set it straight.

SkullV
08-10-09, 11:02 PM
What shop was this again? Speed Inc?

lollygagger8
08-11-09, 09:33 AM
Man all this crazy talk makes me want to say F it, and have EPP install it :(

myndrite
08-26-09, 02:00 PM
I had to dig this one up..

My V is doing the same thing and the shop bled the clutch, replaced the slave cylinder, the clutch--still no luck. They're thinking about replacing the master cylinder, is that the way to go? They were able to drive it around for a test drive but on the way back the problem came back.

darkman
08-26-09, 02:29 PM
I had to dig this one up..

My V is doing the same thing and the shop bled the clutch, replaced the slave cylinder, the clutch--still no luck. They're thinking about replacing the master cylinder, is that the way to go? They were able to drive it around for a test drive but on the way back the problem came back.

Assuming that replacing "the clutch" included a pressure plate you are about out of parts to change. If that is the case, the master cylinder would be the next logical candidate for change. You did not mention anything about the clutch pedal mechanism itself. Make sure that it is in working order and that the bushings are not shot. I am not saying the pedal is all that likely, but I would check it before buying a master cylinder.

nmaier2201
08-26-09, 03:42 PM
Update: I'm really hoping Bill is/was right. I got the remote bleeder installed and bled it... seems to be holding pedal pressure just fine.. I also added a shim behind the slave and the pedal engagement is right back at stock now.....

I bought some 2000 degree heat reflective tubing from Summit and wrapped the LS7 master line above the cat and the whole remote bleeder just for good measure.

So for now I still have the original master cylinder... and let's hope that Bill is right and that isn't my problem... as it looks to be impossible to change out. I was talking to someone who replaced theirs...was it 154? sounds like the brake booster has to come out... maybe the drivers manifold... and a bunch of other stuff.... I'd sure like a how to for that... hopefully I won't need it.

Now I'm on to enjoying the lighter flywheel.... and emphasis is on ENJOYING.. it's a rev happy beast now... and just feels much more overall responsive... Pedal engagement with the spacer is the same, but you can notice the difference taking off from a standstill because of the lighter flywheel.. that will only take a little bit to get used to.

ewill3rd
08-26-09, 11:13 PM
The few I have driven seem to have a little vibration around 2,500 rpm with 2/3 clutch apply... seems to be related to the lost dual mass. Do you feel something like that?

I have only replaced one master cylinder and I can't remember why but yeah, the brake booster has to come out. I usually take off the upper cowl covers and the whole wiper system for access.
It isn't bad if you know your way around but I wouldn't recommend it to someone without a good set of instructions and lots of time on their hands.

beartrace
12-19-09, 10:32 PM
I am pleased with this thread. I bled my clutch and after I thought I was done I had the same dead pedal problem. However, Luke called it correctly. I bled it some more and viola' - a good clutch again. Moral: bleed and bleed some more.

The 8 mm bleed screw was a bugger to get to. Use the stubbiest one you have.

BTW I used a power bleeder from Harbor Freight. It was low on vacuum, but got the job done. It helped having someone in the car to occasionally pump the clutch, it sped up the process.