View Full Version : Bose a/market bypass ulitimatum

05-07-09, 12:16 AM
after all thats said and done has anyone found a rock solid way to install an aftermarket head unit in the 96 seville style bose systems without having to leave the stock head unit connected? im about to do another one, the last system i left the deck connected buried inside the dash. if i must leave it connected i think ill relocate it to the trunk this time, into the spare tire well.

as a side note has anyone found a way to tie your aftermarket stereo in with the retained accessory power system? it would be a nice feature to allow your aftermarket stereo to continue playing after the ignition was off like the stock systems.

05-09-09, 12:47 AM
With your car I would relocate it in the trunk and run it off a fuse that runs on acc on the ingtion. Also for the new head unit I would do the same but if you feel more comfortable redoing ther ingtion/acc/ground go for it as for the speaker wires your gonna have to rerun all new wire. You got bose:(

05-11-09, 02:37 AM
tap the facory power wire in the trunk for rap. and the stock unit will fit nicley in the spare tire well

05-12-09, 07:57 PM
will the power wire in the trunk shut off when the doors open? its easy enough to run a constant power to my deck so it will play after the ignition is off, but id like it to power down once i open my doors, like the factory HU.

i did rewire aftermarket speakers last time as well, routing was a bit tricky, and mounting the front components called for some creativity, but the rear speakers were a breeze. they fit right into the factory 6/9 mounts and popped back in.

i found a relocation harness before but im having trouble finding one this time round. anyone know who sells them for sure?

05-13-09, 12:18 AM
try installer.com or installers.com

the trunk power wire will power on with the acc, and off when the door opens...thats the factory set wire

05-13-09, 05:09 PM
perfect, thats good to know, ill try tying into that this time around. hopefully it wont be sensitive to a sub operating, i understand the computer senses changes in voltage such as when the door opens to turn off the rap? ill find out soon enough i guess. if it doesnt work im no further behind.

i stumbled on installer.com just recently, funny you mentioned it. still no new modules to bypass the stock HU, so it looks like im relocating it.
even if i cant find the harness or dont want to pay 100 dollars for it, i could easily buy wire to do it myself. then again 12 feet of what is it 12 wires? could get costly as well.

05-13-09, 07:37 PM
for the relocation you only need 5 wires....the two purple databus, constant and switched power and ground....your powers can also be from the trunk, so you really only need 2 wires at a minimum.

05-13-09, 09:38 PM
i did mention this is bose, timothyr is the wiring you mentioned for a non bose deck? i checked with a test light for constant and switched power on my deck, and only found one switched wire that goes out about a minute after the ignition is off. there are no other power wires! i also tried finding a ground and switched power within the plug, but no luck.

I have solved both my problems however:
for an abosolute concrete RAP lead, its in the window power supply in the drivers door. in the front switch plug there is a large blue wire, with a test light it will light up onn ACC, then go out when the door opens. I also had no luck finding a RAP wire in the trunk, if ive missed it, i think its much easier to wire into the door as i already have done.

for the databus, again ive left the deck attached and inside the dash. HOWEVER, ive solved a problem i had before concerning space. Previously had to remove the ducting in the console for the rear heat. i stripped down my deck, removed the faceplate, tape player mechanics, the entire housing, and left connected the controls for power. wrapped it in insulation to prevent shorting, and stuffed it perfectly into the space between the ducting and the side of the console. almost all of the parts come apart via plugs, except the treble and bass adjusters, the knobs seem to be glued on, so i had to cut the brown wires leading to them. however, they are all in order from a brown/black stripe wire on one end, so in the instance it must be reassembled, it is entirely possible. but i feel that resale will actually go up if you leave your aftermarket deck in place. in essence ive built my own interface using existing parts. im sure that in the worst case scenario, you could get a new deck and install that in place.

One further Question:
to retain my door chimes which come in through the bose system, is it possible to piggyback the original speaker leads onto my aftermarket speakers, or will that cause distortion/feedback/damage? the deck is turned permanently off inside the dash.

if that doesnt work i could use that gm03 or whatever its called to add a chime, but id rather keep it stock sounding.

05-14-09, 11:55 PM
honestly, some say its nuts because its not "proper" but I have done several installs the way you are describing....switched power from the window circuit, constant from the lighter, radio gutted and stashed in the dash with a cheap 3" speaker to provide chimes....the gm03 is neat, but far from perfect.

and I am assuming you know what you are getting into as far as the speaker wiring......gotta love bose

05-24-09, 11:16 PM
My 93 eldo had a bose in it and i put in a pioneer DVD head unit and used the power wires from the factory unit and works perfectly , radio stays on till you open the door and radio dims when you turn on the lites .. see pics below..