: Oil Pressure Sensor Sender Failure



Rey
05-05-09, 11:18 AM
My sensor/sender failed at about 78K miles. Have learned that this sensor/sender is an electronic bit that has had some failure problems. Perhaps the following will be helpful: In my case failure was noted when oil pressure rose and stuck at 130 psi. I verified that this was not my true oil pressure by simply turning off the motor, allowing the oil pressure to drop to zero. Then I just turned the ignition on without motor running. Oil pressure should have shown as "0", but it immediately climbed back to 100+psi. without the motor running. I was on a long trip so I continued to monitor the gauge. When I got home, I changed oil, and then the gauge read "0" for a while before returning to 130 psi once again.
The part number for the sensor/sender is 12616646. GM sells this for about $75. GMPD price, including shipping, was a bit over $50.
The sensor/sender is easily replaced. It is located on the horizontal surface of the "V" of the block at the rear of the intake manifold on the driver's side. R&R requires a deep-socket about 1 1/16" or so.

perfect
05-05-09, 11:21 AM
Excellent information, thanks for posting this Rey

We need more helpful contributions like this on the forum!

tiremarx723
05-05-09, 12:35 PM
I also just had mine replaced at 70k. However mine was reading 0 under hard acceleration. Turns out the oil pan gasket was leaking, and oil was wicking into one of the connectors for the oil pressure sending unit. Dealer replaced the oil pan gasket, oil pressure sending unit, and the connector for the unit to cure the problem.

ronr
05-06-09, 06:03 PM
Mine failed around 58k miles (and is still broken) reading 129psi. Great info, this should motivate me to get on with finally replacing the thing!

Rich H
05-06-09, 10:46 PM
My sensor failed at 38K miles and I diagnosed it exactly as described above. I used a deep socket made specifically for oil pressure sender R&R sold by Pep Boys for about $6.

heavymetals
05-06-09, 11:50 PM
I am on my third one.

You can jump two of the pins with a 1k ohm resistor to see if the pcm is reading the input.

Here is the removal tool.

It is easier to get at the sensor if you remove the windshield wiper facia.

rand49er
05-07-09, 07:13 AM
Thanks, Rey ... good info! Just like ronr, this may motivate me, too. I started a thread a while back on this same thing.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2004/153468-oil-pressure-running-129-psi.html

I wonder how much more difficult it'll be with a Maggie in the way.

Twitch
05-08-09, 09:57 AM
Pretty sure the blower has to come off.

heavymetals
05-08-09, 12:55 PM
No it doesn't.

Just remove the windshield wiper facia, which is no big deal.

Then it is a straight shot at the sucker. :thumbsup:

06RRCTSV
05-14-09, 10:17 PM
this started happening to my 06.The DTC read 130 upon startup, under exceleration would drop to 0 and climb back slowly... Did the checks, hit the autozone, $47 dollars later (needed the socket) and 15 minutes problem was gone. Back to reading 30 at idle... This forum rocks... Thanks guys!!!!! :worship: :blurock:

vseries
07-02-09, 10:36 PM
Does anyone know if the oil pressure sensor acts as the oil Temperature sensor as well?

heavymetals
07-03-09, 11:21 AM
It is pressure only.

Temp sensor is at a different location.

vseries
07-03-09, 11:45 AM
Thanks , There seemed to be some misleading info out there on some auto parts sites, Heres what I figured out and you confirmed it as well.
-oil pressure sending unit located on drivers side top rear of engine
-oil temperature sending unit located on drivers side oil pan
-oil level sensor located on passenger side oil pan

oil pressure http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=938317&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/Airtex/1S6713.jpg
oil level http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=1190024&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/Airtex/5S8223.jpg
Cant seem to find a pic of the temp sender
On a side note does anyone know if they found a fix for the false high temp oil warning , Mine always seems to light as soon as I get home and pull in my driveway, Must have something to do with the incline??

MauiV
07-03-09, 01:29 PM
Mine failed for good a few weeks ago. Nothing will make you shit your pants like every bell and whistle on the dash going off and the nav screen screaming "Oil Pressure Zero--Stop Engine Immediately"

Now it jut reads --- and I get a "Service Vehicle Soon" message whenever I fire up now. My warrenty has 15k and 6 monts left. Im just going to save everything up for that last big trip in.

stars_fan
10-09-09, 03:33 AM
Add me to the list of failures at 33k. Just flipped through and noticed it was reading 129psi

Ssspeed
02-23-10, 09:05 AM
Has anyone replaced the oil pressure sensor with a miggie installed?

darkman
02-23-10, 09:10 AM
Has anyone replaced the oil pressure sensor with a miggie installed?

See posts #7-9 of this thread.

Ssspeed
02-23-10, 09:13 AM
Thanks but my the dealer wants to charge me 800 bucks because he said the supercharger has to be removed.

darkman
02-23-10, 09:20 AM
Thanks but my the dealer wants to charge me 800 bucks because he said the supercharger has to be removed.

With that much at stake I would PM Heavymetals - he has a maggie and has apparently replaced the sensor with the maggie in place. He can give you the details, or correct me if I have misinterpreted his posts.

PS - He is on west coast time.

Ssspeed
02-23-10, 09:26 AM
Cool I'll pm him thanks

heavymetals
02-23-10, 11:32 AM
PM sent.

You can DIY.

Duck soup.

wmskateteam
09-20-10, 08:15 PM
i tried to PM you heavymetals, but i'm still not authorized. i have my windshield wiper fascia off and bought a 1 1/16 sensor socket which i've ground down as much as i can and still can't get it to fit over the sensor. it keeps hitting my maggie valley cover, what did you use to get the sensor out?

heavymetals
09-21-10, 12:37 AM
I use this:




Also, if the valley cover is interfering, you may have to break out the Dremel and grind some material away (I had to so I know).

Old story, but when I installed my maggie I was telling my friend helping me that I hoped I never had to replace that sensor.

I am on #4.:banghead: but I can replace those POS in short order now.

Twitch
09-21-10, 08:11 AM
i tried to PM you heavymetals, but i'm still not authorized. i have my windshield wiper fascia off and bought a 1 1/16 sensor socket which i've ground down as much as i can and still can't get it to fit over the sensor. it keeps hitting my maggie valley cover, what did you use to get the sensor out?


I use this:




Also, if the valley cover is interfering, you may have to break out the Dremel and grind some material away (I had to so I know).

Old story, but when I installed my maggie I was telling my friend helping me that I hoped I never had to replace that sensor.

I am on #4.:banghead: but I can replace those POS in short order now.

Would a crows foot work?

RippyPartsDept
09-21-10, 09:13 AM
The part number for the sensor/sender is 12616646. GM sells this for about $75. GMPD price, including shipping, was a bit over $50.

FYI, I'm selling that same part for $52

wmskateteam
09-22-10, 07:34 PM
thanks for the input, i ended up cutting 1/3 of the socket wall off and doing minimal turns. i borrowed a dremel but didn't have a good bit so i couldn't grind enough of the portion on the valley cover that was interfering with the sensor removal

heavymetals
09-22-10, 07:43 PM
thanks for the input, i ended up cutting 1/3 of the socket wall off and doing minimal turns. i borrowed a dremel but didn't have a good bit so i couldn't grind enough of the portion on the valley cover that was interfering with the sensor removal

Where there is a will........

You will end up grinding that off when you are replacing sensor #3 :yup:

DMM
09-22-10, 09:32 PM
I had to replace mine twice...once when pressure went high and again when I snapped the connector off installing the Maggie. The valley plate does need to come off to replace it.

I opted to go aftermarket and got a Dormont(?) sensor for $45.00, and I think it is actually a much better piece than the OEM one. It is made from brass and has a weighted, quality feel vice the fly-weight OEM piece. Aftermarket feels and looks like a higher quality piece IMO.

darkman
09-22-10, 09:38 PM
I had to replace mine twice...once when pressure went high and again when I snapped the connector off installing the Maggie. The valley plate does need to come off to replace it.

I opted to go aftermarket and got a Dormont(?) sensor for $45.00, and I think it is actually a much better piece than the OEM one. It is made from brass and has a weighted, quality feel vice the fly-weight OEM piece. Aftermarket feels and looks like a higher quality piece IMO.

Is there a specific auto parts store (chain) that sells that brand?

RippyPartsDept
09-22-10, 09:40 PM
we've found a Standard part that is for an older n* with a smaller thread works best for cars where the OEM sensor seems to fluctuate too much
(you just need a fitting to step up the thread size to fit into the oil filter housing)
PS270 i think is the Standard part number

wmskateteam
09-22-10, 09:51 PM
Where there is a will........

You will end up grinding that off when you are replacing sensor #3 :yup:

i hope not, but all in all it isn't too bad. i was expecting worse

heavymetals
09-22-10, 11:13 PM
Good for you.

It isn't as big of a deal as it is made out to be.

It is just hard to get at cuz you can't see it.

I replace em by "feel" now.

DMM
09-23-10, 11:43 PM
Is there a specific auto parts store (chain) that sells that brand?

I don't know honestly, I think Dormont is a pretty common manufacturer. I have a buddy that works for PAPA Automotive and he has been giving me stuff at cost for years, so that's where I got mine. Just stay away from KEM, its all junk.

kevm14
09-25-10, 08:09 AM
Are we talking about Dorman? Never heard of Dormont. Dorman (mainly chinese manufacture) is famous for coming to the rescue for either expensive, unavailable or faulty factory parts, just like this. Though my sensor is original at nearly 100k, no funny business. But I should stop saying that because it'll fail the next time I drive the car.

darkman
09-25-10, 08:49 AM
Are we talking about Dorman? Never heard of Dormont. Dorman (mainly chinese manufacture) is famous for coming to the rescue for either expensive, unavailable or faulty factory parts, just like this. Though my sensor is original at nearly 100k, no funny business. But I should stop saying that because it'll fail the next time I drive the car.

Thank you. I bought some "universal" Dorman exhaust studs (manifold to cat) a while back but I could not remember the name. Their parts are sold at many part stores and do have an online catalog.

MauiV
10-06-10, 11:30 AM
I use this:




Also, if the valley cover is interfering, you may have to break out the Dremel and grind some material away (I had to so I know).

Old story, but when I installed my maggie I was telling my friend helping me that I hoped I never had to replace that sensor.

I am on #4.:banghead: but I can replace those POS in short order now.

Did you have to shave down the outside of the actual socket Or trip the block? I cant get it to fit between the block and the nut. My Maggie just returned today with install tomorrow morning so I want to knock this out while its right in front of me. Thanks.

heavymetals
10-06-10, 12:50 PM
It was a "lip" on the maggie I had to grind down.

MauiV
10-06-10, 01:56 PM
Does your socket package say that its for 4cyl GMs and 3.0l V6s? Mine has the same part number at the top but it definatly doesnt fit in he VERY thin gap

MauiV
10-08-10, 11:05 AM
Well, after MUCH deliberation and temptation with the Dremel, I have decided to remove the valley floor plate to get to this sensor bolt. That is the actual like that sits right up next to it. I worried about triming off the necessary metal that close to a the hex bolt. The new gasket for the bottom is ordered so it is just the removal of the 10 hex bolts on the plate, remove the sensor, replace. Anyone know the torque requirements for thse hex bolts? I am almost tempted to replace the knock sensors while I am here since I did have one alarm on me over the summer after it more than likely got wet.

Heavy mentioned trimming off a lip of the Maggie but I would guess this is the piece that he actually got....

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w52/jdinmaui/2010-10-08110002.jpg

heavymetals
10-08-10, 12:04 PM
That's it.

Just grind it off with a Dremel.

MauiV
10-08-10, 05:23 PM
Im weary to grind it off that close to that bolt and grinding with so many open holes in the engine bay right now where that stuff is going to end up. I have a couple of towels over the ports and stuff right now but I still worry about anything finding its way into the engine.

heavymetals
10-08-10, 05:26 PM
I duct tape a shop vac hose next to whatever I grind on.

Catches most of it.

Just spray with a degrease solvent first.

white2001formula
11-26-10, 05:04 PM
Rey,

I had the exact same scenario happen to me earlier today. Monitored everything else and came home to research it. Sadly, I just passed my 100k warranty. Thank you for the information and part number. I just ordered the part, should be here in a few days.

-Chris

Alcohawk
11-26-10, 05:22 PM
nice

ichpen
11-27-10, 07:01 AM
Funny I should spot this thread. My sensor went this morning. Maxxed out then after a couple of hours went to blanks and alarms started chirping. Not fun to listen to bongs all day.

heavy, thanks for the info, I'll try it out without removing the maggie.

ichpen
12-05-10, 01:10 PM
Well, got dizzy looking at it with the maggie so we decided to just slide the maggie forward by a few inches. Worked like a charm and probably quicker than dremel/facia removal. Unbolt maggie, take out intake tube, unplug sensors, unplug injectors and slide forward. No need to remove coolant hoses. About an hour and a bit total.

MauiV
12-05-10, 07:35 PM
Is it just me or does this seem to be a bigger issue on booster V's?

heavymetals
12-05-10, 08:11 PM
It's you.

These are a known failure in the LS series.

Vette guys pop them so often someone came out with a relocation kit.

What really screws them up is cold thick oil on start up and then rev it a bit.

POP!

kevm14
12-05-10, 09:05 PM
I was going to say the same thing, that it seemed to be a disproportionate number of the maggie folks. But maybe they make all the threads because it's so much harder to get to it with the blower in place.

hXc95SLS
12-05-10, 10:44 PM
So just the sensor sender going is a common problem? I got in mine today after driving it 15 minutes prior and it said oil pressure 0 stop engine. I bugged out. Pulled the filler neck out of the valve cover and didnt see any oil flow and thought the worst towed it home. There is deff a strange tick coming from the engine now so Im not 100% on it being the sensor but well see.

heavymetals
12-06-10, 01:19 AM
If you had no oil pressure it would be more then a "strange tic".

It would sound like a bucket of bolts having a death rattle.

Fore V
08-07-11, 05:11 PM
I did it today! I was tired to have the Oil Pressure reading out of wack and have the "Service Engine Soon" popin up on the NAV.
Got a BWD (Made in Mexico) oil pressure sender for $69 at Partsouce. Brass fitting and seems and feel better quality than the OEM I pulled out. I also bought the socket for $11. In Ontario Canada, we need to add another $10.40 or 13% (Harmonized Sales Tax) or HST. I have a few other names for this one. Yes, I did remove the windshield washer motor trim. Took me around 15 minutes. All looks good now!
Thanks for this thread! It made me come to conclusion and fix it myself.
Cheers
Fore V