: Difficulty level on swapping a N* 4.6?



psummit
04-24-09, 11:01 PM
The title says it all; how difficult is it to swap over to a new engine?? The procedure itself. Northstar 4.6 in a 2001 DTS. We have a bad rod. Had a hard knock at acceleration, thought it was EGR valve, no such luck. Husband will be doing it, mechanically inclined , yet, not a professional mechanic. Have all the tools. Have a subsription to Alldatadiy.com. NEED to do this asap.

Thanks,
Kim

Submariner409
04-25-09, 09:11 AM
As in the other Northstar gasket/engine thread close to this one.....The drivetrain needs to come out the bottom. Your ALLDATA has the diagrams.

Remember that you need to find a good used engine of the same VIN model: The 8th digit of the VIN is a "9" for the 300 hp STS/DTS series and is a "Y" for the 275 hp base, SLS, Deville.

You will need either a chain fall and strong set of trusses in your garage or a 3-ton engine "cherry picker" crane for the body, plus either a floor jack to lower the drivetrain or, as described in here a year ago, a set of long allthread rods with nuts and washers to use as a slow threaded lowering device for 4 of the cradle corners.

psummit
04-25-09, 09:31 AM
Hi Submariner,
Thanks for the info.
I found all the information I needed for the removal. I have them all printed out.
We know about the Vin 9. We found several engines; just have to choose 1. they range from 1000 , 1500 & 1600.00. The thousand is 55,000miles, the 15 is 69,000 miles, and the 16 was 33,000 miles. ANYTHING special on chooseing??? They are junk yard items, should there be any "don't buy it!!" signs??
Hubby has althread rods. I'll look for that article you mentioned.

kim

Submariner409
04-25-09, 01:28 PM
A parts yard engine is always a tossup, regardless of time or mileage. IF the 33,000 mile engine looks clean and has no oil and grime caked around the oil pan and flywheel (flexplate) then I'd be inclined to fork over the extra $100.

The cleanest engine with decent looking accessories (pumps, compressors, belts, etc.) is usually your best bet - as I said - Luck of the draw.

Ranger
04-25-09, 09:32 PM
I'm with Sub. I'd go for the 33K engine if it is clean, unless the higher mileage engines came from an '03 or '04.

bbrewer5
04-26-09, 05:08 PM
A parts yard engine is always a tossup, regardless of time or mileage. IF the 33,000 mile engine looks clean and has no oil and grime caked around the oil pan and flywheel (flexplate) then I'd be inclined to fork over the extra $100.

The cleanest engine with decent looking accessories (pumps, compressors, belts, etc.) is usually your best bet - as I said - Luck of the draw.

Also, try to find out how long the car has been there. With low miles on it like that, its possible that the engine has been sitting for 5 or 6 years without being started/ran.

tateos
04-27-09, 01:49 PM
I'm puzzled - why not repair the engine you have? Why would you not replace the bearings and insert or stud the block and reassemble? The engine will be repaired and you will be money ahead. If you buy a used engine, you will almost have to do the HG repair anyway, no? I replaced my first engine with blown HG with used engine with 89K on it; that engine blew the HG 23K miles later, so this time I did the repair and now it's all set.

So if you have to do the HG part anyway (I think you should), then you just need to spend maybe a day and around $100 to replace the bearings and lower end gaskets and seals. Add a few $ if the connecting rod is shot. That's instead of $1,000 - $1,600.

So, am I missing something here, or does it not make more sense to repair the existing engine?

32vmonte
04-27-09, 10:39 PM
They are more looking for the route that is drop out and bolt it back up and go. I would rebuild if I was able to, depending if the vehicle was needed very soon for transportation or not.

Some images for reference........:thumbsup:


http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo331/9895monte/IMG_0112.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo331/9895monte/IMG_0140.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo331/9895monte/IMG_0137.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo331/9895monte/IMG_0139.jpg



I took a afternoon to disconnect everything, from brake lines, fuel lines, steering linkage, tie-rods, along with the rest of my front suspension.

Don't forget to look for every last sensor, I made that mistake and ended up ripping my cam position sensor clean out of the plug.

From the start of what you see in the pictures, I arranged everything and hooked all the chains up it took 45 minutes :eek: To get the motor on the ground. It really surprised me Ill tell you. But all I had to do at this point was impact four bolts out and the thing was able to be lowered down.


Oh yea and yes obviously its a 95 monte but I believe the method mentioned is relatively the same in the caddy. Am I right?

psummit
04-28-09, 08:20 AM
Hi Tatoes,
Thanks for the write in.
I'd like nothing more than to put a couple hundred into it instead of the
1000+ but can't find a used bearing. We priced the bearing and crank & they are dealer items only, going for (crank) 1200 and bearings (500) less my frineds dicount of 32%....still more than an engine.
We were looking into rebuilding the bottom end....have to pull the engine anyway. And time is an issue here. Been without the car for 3 weeks now. We would love to keep our motor, we know other than the horrible noise, she still runs great!
I guess it's going to be started this weekend; pull the engine and go from there. we KNOW we have a problem according to the oil and the psychodelic swirls we get when the oil is stirred. If it wasn't for that we'd check the boilts on the flywheel to MAKE SURE they weren't loose and purchase a new EGR valve.

32vmonte, thanks for the pics.

tateos
04-28-09, 12:38 PM
Well, someone gave you some bad info. I looked it up for you and IF the crank is shot, you can get a rebuilt crank and full set of bearings from Rock Auto for $199.89:

2001 CADILLAC DEVILLE 4.6L 281cid V8 FI (Y) : Engine : Crankshaft Price Core Total Advice
MARSHALL Part # C2078 More Info {Reman CRANKSHAFT; KIT INCLUDES MAIN & CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS}
CASTING # 1255468, W/TRIGGER FIRE WHEEL BUILT ONTO CRANK, 8 BOLT FLANGE, 14mm CRANK SNOUT BOLT HOLE, HAS NO KEYWAY HAS PIN


Here is a link to their site:

http://www.rockauto.com/