: Help with engine removal for STS

04-24-09, 11:01 PM
I have a headgasket problem on a 98' seville. I want to replace the whole block. Now what do i do to remove the engine. Any thread or site that can point it out clearly would be the best. swaping the motor would be the easiest way or we might actually get new head gaskets, and bring the motor to a machine shop for rethreading and screws.

04-25-09, 08:58 AM
Hi, we have the same problem with the engine removal. I subscribed to alldatadiy.com (26.95 for the year) and it does give step by step directions for the engine removal; or anything else that needs to be done. I'm printing the pages out right now.
I actually wrote in last night the SAME time you did.

good luck on your "project".

Kim psummit

04-25-09, 09:03 AM
You don't need a new block. A set of Jake's studs, Timeserts, or Norm's Inserts will reapair your block threads, same as in any other Northstar block. Jake's studs would be preferred.

The entire drivetrain needs to come out the bottom of the car......you raise the front on jackstands unhook everything from the strut tower tops to the brakes to the exhaust to the electrical system, and lower the whole unit, then lift the body off and roll it back. Not fun - tedious if anything. Read all posts by Tateos on his work.

Use the search button up in the blue bar - there's a lot to read and see on engine removal.

04-26-09, 01:23 PM
The easiest way is to drop the cradle by lifting the body off. This makes it very easy to work on the engine.

If the car ran well except for the HG's then just repair the HG's! Don't buy an engine you cannot hear run if you can avoid it. Kim psummit has bearing problems so that's different.

If you can remove the engine you can do the inserts. They are very straightforward, just tedious because you want to do all 20 of them.


There are other threads with tips and more pics, that's just mine.

05-16-09, 12:02 AM
Now i am interested in paying the 20 bucks at alldatadiy.com
But do they have any pictures of how to remove it? Also does it include all the torque settings for the bolts/screws??

05-16-09, 12:29 AM
I will not lie to you dave the alldatadiy version of removing the motor is pretty vague but it is great for torque specs and things, Tateos and Zonnie77 both have very good threads and I am putting together my own that will be live this time next week, I am basically taking pictures of each bolt, nut, etc. before I remove it and I will do a small description to go along with each picture, so if I where you I would start "doing some homework" with tateos and zonnies threads they are EXTREAMLY helpful, and hopefully my thread will prove helpful as well.

as to replacing the whole block it is really not necassary, Jakes stud kit is all you need (www.studkit.com)

05-16-09, 09:52 PM
Is there any way to take this off without the J 37088-A fuel line quick connect separator tool to disconnect the fuel inlet and return the lines (I put up a picture so you know what i am talking about.
Also how do i disable the SIR system?


05-16-09, 10:04 PM
Also how do i disable the SIR system?
I just pull the fuse.

05-16-09, 11:05 PM
I dont believe there is a way to disconnect the fuel lines without a tool, but I got the tool from autozone for 6 bucks

05-16-09, 11:08 PM
I'm not sure either. I know the 3800 calls for a special tool. I bought it and found it easier to do with pliers.

05-17-09, 12:24 AM
We pulled the fuel lines, the battery disconnected, and the process has begun

05-17-09, 12:29 AM
good luck man im doing the same job on my 99 deville but in the car and lets just say that their is a reason why some mechanics wont touch a northstar because it it MATICULOUS AND TEDIOUS:bighead::alchi::thumbsup:

05-17-09, 10:02 AM
good luck to you also, once i heard the price at the mechanic i was i forget that:thehand:
Maybe this could help, im doing my job from this:
Look up **northstar engine removal by the book*** in google. It is the first link

05-18-09, 02:29 PM
Here is my thread - you will notice several mistakes I made - I hope my can benefit from my follies:


A lot of what I dd, I learned from Zonie's threads

05-19-09, 02:12 PM
tateos, I looked into your thread a bit. Now after turning the bolt, you need to turn it with the correct torques, but switch torques after a certain degree, where can i find the exact settings? Also the torque for the other bolts, Service manual perhaps? Like in your threa, i dont want to under torque it because of oil pressure problems.

05-19-09, 02:27 PM
Some bolts are tightened to a set torque as: Tighten sequentially, increasing to xx ft/lb. Others are torqued to a beginning xx ft/lb and then further tightened in 2 or 3 steps of say, 30 degrees. There's no set torque for that kind of procedure: the first torque step sets all the bolts on the assembly to a constant and the following degrees of tightening stretches each bolt equally.

05-19-09, 04:34 PM
This is what I used:


05-20-09, 11:47 PM
We got to the point where can almost drop the engine. We just need to disconnect the steering, What is the best way to disconnect this?
Also i read that everybody has problems removing the crankshaft. My question is if you are facing it do you turn the wrench clockwise or counterclockwise ??

05-21-09, 10:38 AM
Are you talking about the crankshaft dampener? Right = tight, left = loose. "Righty tighty, lefty loosey".

05-21-09, 01:21 PM
Got that down, now how do we disconnect the steering?
We only need this to drop the engine

05-21-09, 01:50 PM
Have the steering wheel in the centered straight ahead position. To disconnect the steering column, reach up to the dust boot on the input shaft of the steering rack - on the engine side of the firewall. Leave the steering wheel unlocked by having the key in the run position. Push the dust boot up, and have someone slightly turn the steering wheel until the pinch bolt on the steering rack is visible and facing you. Now lock the steering column and don't you dare turn it again until you are ready for reassembly. OK, now use a socket and extension and ratchet and loosen and completely remove the bolt. Now, you can probably push up on the steering column extension and u-joint and disengage it from the column. If not, it will disengage as you drop the cradle - you may have to and wiggle it around or use a pry bar or screwdriver, but it will come apart easily - a lot more easily than it will go together!

It's easier than it sounds.

05-21-09, 01:57 PM
The damper bolt was REALLY hard to remove on my car. After I dropped the cradle, I had to use a 6 point socket, a 24" breaker bar, and a 3' pipe cheater bar to get that one loose. When it finally gave way, it popped loudly and sounded like it or a socket broke, but everything was fine and it had just finally broken loose. The funny thing is it installs really easily - you go to certain moderately tight torque, and then turn the bolt another 120 degrees. It did not seem very tight, so I thought maybe I did something wrong; I loosened it and tried it again, but it was the same result. It was fine and I never had any oil pressure or other problems, so I must have done it correctly.

05-24-09, 06:01 PM
The engine is dropped and taken all apart.
Now we opened the heads and found leakage in 3 cylinders.
Now my question is that there is a neck on 2 sides on the block.
When we use the kit for the new serts. Do we take that off ? does it go back after? what do we do with this? Also what is the best thing to use, Norms?

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5715/norms2.th.jpg (http://img38.imageshack.us/my.php?image=norms2.jpg)

05-24-09, 06:30 PM
Those "necks" are the locating pins for the head/block alignment. They must be retained, either by removal before insert installation and subsequent new part replacement or by using studs which are machined to replicate the function.

05-25-09, 10:52 PM
Just bought the Norms kit and tomorrow going up to AllState auto in north jersey for the bearings, piston rings, etc. Now any word out there on which brand head gasket is good?

05-25-09, 11:01 PM
You have to remove the dowel pins to drill those holes. I found that the pivot bolt on the chain tensioner fits perfectly in the dowel pin hole. Then I sprayed the dowel pin with some penetrating lubricant and left it for a while. After that I used a vise grip on it with that bolt in the middle so it would retain its shape. It took some twisting but it came out. Afterwords I cleaned up the scratches that I made in it and put them in the freezer to await re-installation.

If you buy Jakes stud kit, I don't think you need the dowel pins.

I think the best gaskets are the multi-layered metal gaskets made by Cometic.

05-25-09, 11:16 PM
Here is another way to skin that cat.

05-26-09, 03:01 PM
We came into a new problem. We got all the gaskets but there is a 1/4 in thick plate between the oil pan and the block.Can we can use RTV sealer on this plate?