: Cross-drilled / slotted rotors?



lreddiablo
04-24-09, 05:53 PM
I am just looking for "expert" opinions on cross/drilled and slotted rotors. On the up side the look a lot cleaner and are supposed to keep the breaks running cooler. But I have heard that it may compromise the stoping ability a bit. Anyone more familiar with these than me? Just thinking of swithching to these when my pads need replacing in a few thousand miles. I did put these on a Grand Prix I had and noticed no diff in stopping, but the car looked much better. Just want to make sure I have good breaks on a car with almost twice the power of a Grand Prix.

rb92gt
04-24-09, 10:50 PM
I did some research and recently decided to buy slotted/dimpled rotors. I bought from brakeperformance.com, and they included free pads. Haven't received them yet, but will let you know what I think after the installation. I do not have any particular reason to recommend this company over anyone else.

I decided to attempt the brakes myself as a local repair shop quoted me $690 for front brakes ONLY, no joke (included rotors and pads). My stock ones lasted 50,000 miles, which seems remarkable to me for the way I drive (like I stole it) and the front pads still have 3mm left. I want to change them because there is a pulsation with the brakes and a rotor is slightly warped.

Anyone know if the rotors simply slide off, or do you need to do anything more complicated than that? I know how to change the pads.

BaTu
04-25-09, 10:55 AM
I'm not sure the holes/dimples/slots are really about cooling but more for the "venting" of gases that are produced under hard braking which can kind of fight braking by "floating" the pads off the rotors.

You really can make an improvement over stock by using something like Hawk Street Performance pads and, you're right, the rotors are more about looking "cool" than the effect they're going to have in normal driving ;) That being said though, rotors are cheap enough that you might as well change them along with the pads anyway (the new pads will "bed" better too)

I bought F&R drilled/slotted rotors from DRT (design rotor technology) off an eBay Buy-It-Now for $204 +S&H that seem pretty good and are powder coated instead of plated (previous plated rotors I had rusted pretty quickly - we'll see if these do any better) and the pads from Raceshopper who had about the best prices I could find.

The rotors don't just "slide-off", but almost,,,, there is a torx screw that retains them F&R. If you don't have the right tools this can lead to a problem depending on how tight/rusted they are because if you strip the head you're going to have to drill them off. Make sure you have the right torx bit and it fits TIGHTLY into the head. I've always used one of those, manual, "Impact Screwdrivers" you strike with a hammer to loosen them ever since I stripped one :) (put them back with anti-seize for next time)

The prices for brake jobs are just ridiculous, I encourage anyone with a little mechanical skill to do their own! I was quoted $380 at my local dealership to replace the rear pads and resurface the rotors (just about what I spent for the premium pads & rotors ALL Around!

next2pool
04-25-09, 02:33 PM
If you do have to drill off the torx heads don't worry about it since they are only on there as an assembly aid. Once the wheel is re-installed, the rotors are centered and secured by the wheel clamping force.




The rotors don't just "slide-off", but almost,,,, there is a torx screw that retains them F&R. If you don't have the right tools this can lead to a problem depending on how tight/rusted they are because if you strip the head you're going to have to drill them off. Make sure you have the right torx bit and it fits TIGHTLY into the head. I've always used one of those, manual, "Impact Screwdrivers" you strike with a hammer to loosen them ever since I stripped one :) (put them back with anti-seize for next time)

lreddiablo
04-28-09, 05:24 PM
So conclusion.... If I get these fancy rotors my stopping power is at no way compromised?

next2pool
04-28-09, 05:56 PM
No--your stopping power won't be compromised. The whole concept is meant to improve stopping power, but I doubt you'll see it even with aggressive driving--but they do look cool.

cnotesonly
04-30-09, 06:58 PM
I purchased slotted/dimpled rotors and ceramic pads from BrakePerformance.com (Fronts) and had them put on for $85.00. Apparently, the rotors come off pretty easy. Just remember the rotors are directional. Have I noticed a difference besides appearance? Hard to say. All I know is they stop me and I didn't have to pay the caddy dealer $800 for the fronts. I just ordered the rears w/pads this morning. $256.00 to my front door. I must be happy!

306stang
08-23-09, 01:20 PM
so how did the rotors from DRT work out?

how was fitment? etc?

BaTu
08-23-09, 03:00 PM
So Far, I've been very happy with them - no regrets ;)

Fit was good but I did have to spend a little time removing some powder coat overspray from the braking surfaces.

But, the car certainly has improved stopping, with at least the Hawk Pads, so overall I'd recommend them again!

306stang
08-23-09, 03:37 PM
add has two kinds, base and performance.

obviously i don't have a V, how can i tell if i have the base or performance brakes?

Dougs06sts
08-23-09, 04:33 PM
Code is JE5 for performance brakes (non-v). You will either have that code on the sticker in the trunk lid, or not. I've also seen a full set of plated drilled/slotted rotors, front/rear including the pads/shims all around for $267 recently. I can't recall the website, but I found it in about 15 minutes from a google search. The distributor was in Orange County, CA (I remember that much).

Good luck !

~ Doug

306stang
08-23-09, 04:47 PM
this for the performance brakes minus rotors . . .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cadillac-STS-Perf-Brake-05-06-07-08-D-S-Brake-Rotors-FR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1 262QQhashZitem4834348306QQitemZ310113501958QQptZMo torsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

$200 isn't bad AT ALL for these things

306stang
08-23-09, 05:08 PM
do you have any pics of the rotors you rec'd from drt?

BaTu
08-23-09, 05:16 PM
I bought the same ones as in the link you posted (in black), I Have JE5 brakes.

306stang
08-24-09, 04:01 PM
any pics of them installed?

would love to see what they look like before i pull the trigger

rnkath08
08-25-09, 10:47 AM
green with envy at you all who can do brake work yourselves!!
I went to the Hawk pads (NOT ceramic) and love the difference. The guy at Raceshopper was really helpful as Hawks aren't available for our rears so he sent me Race Performers for that he swears are identical to the hawks. Love them.
Talked about doing drilled/slotted and one comment was that they can't be turned...true? not true? If so, that might make a difference in how long they will last. Also wanted to paint my calipers, but not sure they will withstand NY winters. Probably need to repaint each spring?
Kath

KARL DAHLEN
08-25-09, 11:02 AM
They sell special caliper paint in various colors. Should hold up

BaTu
08-25-09, 11:30 AM
Why would you spend the money to turn a $50 rotor anyway? ;)

I think they can be turned but, you'd have to be sure that if you "wiped-out" the chamfering around the holes, you'd need to chamfer them again....

lreddiablo
08-25-09, 04:18 PM
green with envy at you all who can do brake work yourselves!!
I went to the Hawk pads (NOT ceramic) and love the difference. The guy at Raceshopper was really helpful as Hawks aren't available for our rears so he sent me Race Performers for that he swears are identical to the hawks. Love them.
Talked about doing drilled/slotted and one comment was that they can't be turned...true? not true? If so, that might make a difference in how long they will last. Also wanted to paint my calipers, but not sure they will withstand NY winters. Probably need to repaint each spring?
Kath

Caliper paint is ok, but doesn't look the best. I am thinking of getting mine powdercoated. They guy who did my wheels says he does the calipers for $25 a piece. Just need to see how much his guy who disassembles and reassembles them charges since u have to have the piece sepereate (remove pistons etc.) to get powdercoated.

KARL DAHLEN
08-25-09, 06:31 PM
Why would you spend the money to turn a $50 rotor anyway? ;)

I think they can be turned but, you'd have to be sure that if you "wiped-out" the chamfering around the holes, you'd need to chamfer them again....

I agree -why turn a $50 rotor, especially if you do your own brakes.

306stang
08-28-09, 07:13 PM
so no pics of these rotors on the car?

SleeprLegend
08-31-09, 05:14 PM
Most drilled rotors are not done by professionals. They do crack. I can not prove that mine broke because I was unconsious after leaving no skid marks. I do have a drilled rotor from that car that is broken in sections, and all 4 rims intact.

You can get dimpled and vented rotors. These give you the same benefit of off gassing, with minimal structural loss.

jedhead
08-31-09, 05:55 PM
Many years ago when high performance brake pads were organic and contained asbestos, rotors were drilled to give the released gases when the brake pads were very hot a place to go. Today's pads don't have a gassing issue so the cross-drilled rotor are mainly for looks. Some of the high end sports cars have the cross-drilled rotors mainly because their customer expects them. These rotors were designed to be drilled and usually oversized so the rotors won't crack under normal conditions. I have seen stacks of cracked cross-drilled rotors at a speed shop. The slotting of the rotors was incorporated to cure a problem with some brake pads that would glaze after repeated heat and cool cycles. The slot is supposed to remove the glazing to improve the performance of the brake pads. Most modern pads don't have a glazing problem. Bottom line, Cross-Drilled and slotted rotors are mainly for looks (they do look good) and if you use them keep a close eye for cracking around the holes.

Bob

SleeprLegend
08-31-09, 06:19 PM
Many years ago when high performance brake pads were organic and contained asbestos, rotors were drilled to give the released gases when the brake pads were very hot a place to go. Today's pads don't have a gassing issue so the cross-drilled rotor are mainly for looks. Some of the high end sports cars have the cross-drilled rotors mainly because their customer expects them. These rotors were designed to be drilled and usually oversized so the rotors won't crack under normal conditions. I have seen stacks of cracked cross-drilled rotors at a speed shop. The slotting of the rotors was incorporated to cure a problem with some brake pads that would glaze after repeated heat and cool cycles. The slot is supposed to remove the glazing to improve the performance of the brake pads. Most modern pads don't have a glazing problem. Bottom line, Cross-Drilled and slotted rotors are mainly for looks (they do look good) and if you use them keep a close eye for cracking around the holes.

Bob

You can take your stock rotors off and have them plated to look good. I love the shine instead of rust where the pad does not make contact.

lreddiablo
04-08-10, 10:37 PM
Couldn't find hawk pads on the part lookup on their site, note even fronts. Do we have any part numbers? If not Hawk any other brand recommendations?

LAC_STS
04-09-10, 01:23 AM
I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined. I can do most stuff myself and am not the least bit scared to get into something compacted I have never done before.


The one thing I have problems with is brakes.

I haven't tried in a few years and the last car I tried was an Acura. The very only thing I have a problem with is getting the piston in the caliper to go back in so I can put the new pads on.

I have tried opening the bleeder valve and taking the cap off the master cylinder while using a C clamp trying to get them to go back in enough to get the new pads on.



Is there some trick to this? I need brakes very soon and was thinking or trying it again but the tech at the dealer told me the STS has dual pistons on the front.

Is this true? Is there two pistons? Is it a pain to get the pistons back in on the STS?




Thanks

Midnight
04-09-10, 03:57 AM
I used to use a C=clamp (a huge one) with the old pad to force the piston baack in, and all I can say is take it slow and steady and it's easy (or was for the vehicles I've worked on). Now I have a clamp that has the screw part of a C clamp but is shaped to fit inside the caliper and it works better - less likely to slip off. Still have to take it slow and steady, let that brake fluid flow back into the system.

Concerning drilled/slotted rotors, wikipedia says they wear through pads quicker, intentionally, to keep them soft and remove glaze. They can also help prevent loss of braking due to water film, and the gas thing which apparently isn't as big an issue any more.

Funny this thread came up as just today I really drove it hard into a T intersection to make a light, and as I braked hard to turn, I noticed a slight loss of stopping power a few seconds in. I thought it was odd, I had not been driving too hard before that, perhaps it was gas, or my imagination. hehe :) I have stock brakes and rotors, JE5. Shrug.

LAC_STS
04-09-10, 01:37 PM
Thanks

I may try to pick one of those C clamps up.

Midnight
04-09-10, 02:10 PM
To be clear, I haven't done the brakes on my STS yet. For all I know, it's controlled by magical leprechauns. This is the tool I have:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Ex65n6hgL.jpg that works for single piston "normal" brakes hehe:)

LAC_STS
04-09-10, 02:27 PM
Yea I haven't tried yet because it really sucks getting the wheel and caliper off and not being able to get the new brake pads on and then having to put it back together.

lreddiablo
04-13-10, 05:13 PM
So back to my question, does anyone have a part number for the Hawk break pads for the front? Possibly the rears or if not another brand recommendation?

LAC_STS
04-13-10, 08:25 PM
Depends on your brake config. Forget if you mentioned which kind you have or not.

If you go to Tirerack.com and put in your cars info it will list the correct Hawk pads for your car. You can get the part number from there.

lreddiablo
04-15-10, 12:30 AM
Checked out tire rack, I have the performance brakes. Of course they only have fronts listed for the perf package, but I looked them up on ebay and found an auction claiming to have all 4 covered. The part they have listed for the rear is the same pn as what tirerack has listed for the standard brakes. So with the perf package are the rear pads the same as with the regular option package?

BaTu
04-15-10, 09:43 AM
When I did mine last year, Hawk Street Performance pads were NOT available for JE5 Rear brakes. I went with another pad for the rear.

Call Hawk, they'll tell ya! ;)

LAC_STS
04-15-10, 10:43 AM
Well as an update I ordered the rear rotors. I decided to go with EBC GD series. Everyone was out of stock and EBC has a back order of the USR series. Lots of people show them in stock but when you call they don't have them.

I ordered the rears and the fronts will ship on the 24th. I did end up finding them a litlle cheaper on line but come to find out PepBoys had pretty decent prices on them. They were not ridiculous like you would think.

Now I'm going to find some good caliper paint for when I do the job. When I had three calipers replaced recently at the dealer under warranty the tech sprayed the caliper brackets for me with some cheapo black paint because they were rusted very bad. That was about three or four months ago and low and behold it's still on there and looks good.

We both thought it wouldn't last long but it did. And it's just some regular old cheap high temp spray paint.




Any tips from someone who has changed they're rotors? I already have the impact driver that you hit with the hammer and the correct bit.

Anything I should look out for?

lreddiablo
04-15-10, 09:43 PM
This is the link for what I foun on ebay claiming all 4 brakes, has the correct ones according to tirerack for the front, but same as standard pads for rear. Im assuming this guy just threw togeather a bad package and that these rears wont fit my car? Or does the perf package and regular have the same size pads for rear? I think I will stick with hawk, but if the rears dont pan out what rear pad does anyone suggest?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hawk-F-R-Ceramic-Brake-Pads-08-08-STS-PLATINUM-4-6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439e85b9b7QQitemZ2904 22372791QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories