: DHS would stall upon starting... would not idle



mtflight
04-15-09, 06:51 PM
So this morning, after making a pitstop on the way into work, the car would not stay on—it would stall.

If I applied the gas, no problem... But as soon as I let go the rpms would drop and car would stall.

I checked the carputer for any codes or clues... None. Luckily Ranger was around and pointed me in the right direction = dirty TB plate or IAC.

So here's what happened next.

I cautiously drove back home with one foot on the gas, the other on the brake (not allowing the RPMs to drop below 1000). Pictorial of the surgery, below.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0679.jpg

Behold... my clean engine bay. It's more fun to work on a clean engine. I like to keep it clean!


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0680.jpg
To remove the air intake duct, simply unscrew the two screws on the air filter housing, and


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0681.jpg

unscrew the slotted bolt holding the intake to the TB.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0682.jpg
Here is the IAC plug, two phillips screws hold it in.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0688.jpg

When you take it out (After unplugging it) here is the port hole, clean this well too.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0689.jpg
Here is the IAC valve, and it's two fastening screws. I cleaned it with electric parts cleaner, so if any of the solvent leaks into the electric motor or windings, it doesn't harm them as it's non-conducive.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0690.jpg

This is a dirty IAC valve. The shaft is supposed to be shiny metal, not black soot.


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0687.jpg
Remove the duct work (unplug MAF sensor plug first)

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0691.jpg
Dirty TB

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0693.jpg

Spray it with the TB cleaner. I use a Toothbrush as well.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0694.jpg

After the cleaning, the edges are clean and the back of the throttle plate (WOT, shown here) should be clean, as well as the mating area with the TB. Don't worry about the stuff further in, that'll dirty up in no time and does not affect operation.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0684.jpg

not everything that shines is gold--this is platinum jk :histeric:


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0698.jpg The rags will be really dirty.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/tb%20and%20iac/IMG_0699.jpg
The heroes of the tale! The electric parts cleaner saved my EGR valve on the Eldorado ETC I owned... u can use regular TB cleaner, but allegedly if you get the electronic windings wet with it, it can become toast! I used the Electric parts cleaner on the $349 retail price IAC.