: Aftermarket Intake for '99 DeVille base model



DomDeville
04-04-09, 02:33 AM
I just pulled my MAF/IAT sensor off of my '99 DeVille. It was basically a little clip with a plug on the end that was attached to my stock air box. I just put an aftermarket intake on my car, and i am wondering how to incorporate this sensor. The car runs fine, but the check engine light is on because of the sensor being bypassed. The folks who sold me the intake on ebay told me that bypassing this sensor wouldn't be a problem. Boy, where they wrong. I got the intake off of ebay, and these people originally told me the set up would work fine. After a lot of back and forth, they finally sent out the right sized tubing. I asked them 3 different times about bypassing this sensor, and they told me it wasn't a problem. anything that would cause my check engine light to come on and make me fail emissions seems like a problem to me, what do you think?

However, aside from all that b/s, when I finally got the thing mounted and test drove it, the acceleration and the gas mileage improved. all that is left to do is work out this bug. I am wondering if I could just drill a hole in my aftermarket intake tube and mount the sensor in there and plug it back in. If anyone here has any pointers on installing intakes on there Northstar caddys and/or getting creative with the MAF/IAT let me know.

Submariner409
04-04-09, 10:12 AM
As soon as your PCM adjusts the fuel/air maps back to original you will go back to the original performance setup. No way around it. So-called cold air intakes are the subject of an incredible number of posts both in here and in Seville/Deville. No gains whatsoever, only more noise which provides a subjective power gain. There are many posts describing ways to create your own efficient air intakes which draw air from the lower grille area. One reason your engine light is on is because that IAT sensor (it's NOT the MAF - that's bolted to the throtlebody) is giving the PCM a false air signal. Yes, if you want to keep the bling, you drill a proper hole in the pipe just on the engine side of the ("low restriction cone" ?) filter and snap it back in. The car will not run correctly until you do.

Learn to find, pull, and decipher your Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) by using the onboard scan system. It's all built into the car. You do not need an aftermarket scanner. A code will stay Current for 4 ignition/drive cycles and then go to History, where it resides for 40 such cycles and then clears. You can clear codes yourself, but know that if you do it within 2 weeks of an emissions test the car will fail, as it will present a "not ready" signal to the emissions test set. You'll have to drive for a couple of weeks and then return.

Read the entire Cadillac Technical Archive up in the black bar. Start going through these threads and do A LOT of homework. Use the search tab up in the blue bar. Get a real GM Factory Service Manual from www.helminc.com or eBay. Chilton's or Haynes are useless.

It appears that you are looking for performance gains with bolt-on equipment. You're out of luck. The engineers have already done your work. Before you buy magic spark plugs, coils, wire, whatever, come back here and in Deville for advice from a LOT of people who have "been there, done that". WELCOME ABOARD !!!!!!

DomDeville
04-04-09, 12:15 PM
You were a lot of help here. So, I will do one of two things. I'll either put the stock one back on, or I'll drill a hole and attach my sensor. Even if my intake is merely cosmetic, they don't make a K&N filter for my stock air box apparently, so at least I will have a reusable air filter, which is about as much as I paid for the intake anyway.

You are saying no bolt-ons will add horsepower or fuel economy to my car? I really wanted to get some flowmasters, magnaflow, or something similar? Are you saying that it will merely only make my car louder? I always thought that if an engine can breathe better, it will run better. :hide:

Back to the sensor. I'll cut and paste my most recent e-mail conversation with the people who i bought the intake off of. Hopefully, they amuse you as much as they did me.

DomDeville
04-04-09, 12:19 PM
Dominic wrote:

Bad News:

We still have a problem. I am afraid that you were mistaken about that sensor. Despite resetting my computer, I still managed to get a "service engine soon" light. As it turned out, it was indeed the air flow sensor. The gentleman who checked it told me that it would not likely affect the way that my car runs, but that a dealership would have to reset the code in order for me to pass emissions. I am frightened to ask a dealership how much they would charge to do that. I am imagining that it is a ridiculous amount of money. I am aware of the easier way to do it, which is simply unplugging the battery and resetting the computer.

So basically, I need to not bypass that sensor. You guys told me that I could. I have a question for you. If I were to drill a hole in my tubing and attach that sensor then plug it in, would that actually work? I don't see why it wouldn't, but apparently, your mechanic has installed this on a Cadillac like mine before and didn't run into half of the problems that I did.

Good News:

I took my car for about a 20 mile test run, and I felt the difference in acceleration. It also appeared that the mileage has improved as well. With that said, it will all be work it after we figure out how to incorporate this sensor. After all, if I cannot pass emissions with your product on my car, then your product actually didn't work the way it was supposed to. Also, I left you a positive feedback on ebay and added you to my favorite sellers. You have been coming through for me for the past two weeks, but the battle isn't over yet. I still need your help.

The Reply:

The check engine light is usually on because the factory maf programming still expects the old air flow. The fix is to reset it by disconnecting the neg. battery for 30 min, doing it several times under different driving condition will trigger it off actually, as the maf reads accumulating memory over time. The dealer can also hard reset it for you so everything is fine.

Please let me know if we can further assist you.

Jim

DomDeville
04-04-09, 12:22 PM
Dominic wrote:

Bad News:

We still have a problem. I am afraid that you were mistaken about that sensor. Despite resetting my computer, I still managed to get a "service engine soon" light. As it turned out, it was indeed the air flow sensor. The gentleman who checked it told me that it would not likely affect the way that my car runs, but that a dealership would have to reset the code in order for me to pass emissions. I am frightened to ask a dealership how much they would charge to do that. I am imagining that it is a ridiculous amount of money. I am aware of the easier way to do it, which is simply unplugging the battery and resetting the computer.

So basically, I need to not bypass that sensor. You guys told me that I could. I have a question for you. If I were to drill a hole in my tubing and attach that sensor then plug it in, would that actually work? I don't see why it wouldn't, but apparently, your mechanic has installed this on a Cadillac like mine before and didn't run into half of the problems that I did.

Good News:

I took my car for about a 20 mile test run, and I felt the difference in acceleration. It also appeared that the mileage has improved as well. With that said, it will all be work it after we figure out how to incorporate this sensor. After all, if I cannot pass emissions with your product on my car, then your product actually didn't work the way it was supposed to. Also, I left you a positive feedback on ebay and added you to my favorite sellers. You have been coming through for me for the past two weeks, but the battle isn't over yet. I still need your help.

The Reply:

The check engine light is usually on because the factory maf programming still expects the old air flow. The fix is to reset it by disconnecting the neg. battery for 30 min, doing it several times under different driving condition will trigger it off actually, as the maf reads accumulating memory over time. The dealer can also hard reset it for you so everything is fine.

Please let me know if we can further assist you.

Jim

My Reply to Jim:

How long would it take for it to eventually not come on anymore? How much does a dealership typically charge to do the reset? That is my biggest concern. Everything is not fine until the check engine light doesn't come on. I had no idea that this had to be such a pain.

Also, my question about the MAF sensor: On my car, the IAT and MAF sensor are one in the same. If that sensor is bypassed, how will the car's computer know when to trigger off the check engine light? That wire that I am bypassing is indeed to the MAF/IAT sensor, which is located in the stock air box. With that said, would it be required for me to somehow attach that sensor, perhaps by drilling a hole in my metal tubing, the same size as the hole in the stock air box in which the sensor was originally mounted? If I did that, I would still be able to utilize that sensor. Now, if you are saying that unplugging the battery a few more times will fix it without the use of an MAF sensor, then I will give it a shot.

:banghead:

Submariner409
04-04-09, 03:34 PM
Exhaust........Either do some homework at www.corsaperformance.com or have a GOOD exhaust shop mandrel bend a complete cat-back system. The main restriction is not the mufflers: it's the single pipe from after the cat (which is already a honeycomb substrate high flow unit) to the muffler inlets, including the Y. Simply installing different mufflers will accomplish exactly nothing.

You'll notice that the aftermarket air intake manufacturer alluded to the fact that, over time, the air/fuel ratios will be relearned by the PCM ? In your reply you infer that your IAT and MAF are one and the same. They're not. The IAT is the little thingy that pops into the hole in the air pipe near the filter box, the MAF is bolted to the throttlebody. Don't mess with the honeycomb flow screen !

You don't need a K&N filter. K&N makes NO horsepower gain claims for a filter only. Use a WIX or NAPA Gold (same filter). Better filter and less restriction.

Ranger
04-04-09, 05:31 PM
You are saying no bolt-ons will add horsepower or fuel economy to my car?
I see you are new Dom. Welcome. If you hang around long enough you will hear of "The Guru". He is a GM powertrain engineer who used to post here and taught us well. In his words "All the low hanging fruit has been picked and NOTHING was left on the table" when the Northstar was designed. That's why Sub said, "The engineers have already done your work".

DomDeville
04-04-09, 05:52 PM
Yes, if you want to keep the bling, you drill a proper hole in the pipe just on the engine side of the ("low restriction cone" ?) filter and snap it back in. The car will not run correctly until you do.

Done.




Learn to find, pull, and decipher your Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) by using the onboard scan system. It's all built into the car. You do not need an aftermarket scanner. A code will stay Current for 4 ignition/drive cycles and then go to History, where it resides for 40 such cycles and then clears. You can clear codes yourself, but know that if you do it within 2 weeks of an emissions test the car will fail, as it will present a "not ready" signal to the emissions test set. You'll have to drive for a couple of weeks and then return.


I have a little over a month before I do my emissions, will that be enough time to clear the code? Where is this onboard scan system located? Yeah, you can tell I'm new.:hide:

Ranger
04-04-09, 06:31 PM
Check the sticky at the top of the page and it will tell you how to pull and clear the codes. Yes, a month will be more than enough to reset the readiness flags. If you don't clear the codes, the light will go out and the code will go to history after 3 ignition cycles.

DomDeville
04-04-09, 08:47 PM
Check the sticky at the top of the page and it will tell you how to pull and clear the codes. Yes, a month will be more than enough to reset the readiness flags. If you don't clear the codes, the light will go out and the code will go to history after 3 ignition cycles.

Which sticky? The black bar?

Submariner409
04-04-09, 09:11 PM
At the top of the forum thread pages for Seville, Deville, Northstar performance, and Cadillac Technical there is a "sticky" thread titled "How to pull codes" and "Got codes? Look here". Read up on how to enter the system using the DIC control buttons to the right of the instrument panel - the INFO UP/DOWN, ON/OFF, and RESET buttons. Practice. The URL you want to look at in the links has "OBD2" in the title. OBD refers to the OnBoard Diagnostic protocol.

Ranger
04-04-09, 09:12 PM
No, at the top of this forum.

DomDeville
04-04-09, 09:36 PM
I looked in the "Got Codes?" thread and found mine:

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage

Today, I went on about a 70 mile joy ride up and down mountains, in and out of storms, and various temperature changes. I unhooked my battery from 10 to 30 minutes about 7 different times today. I just fired her up, and rode it around the block, and no check engine light came on. I don't know if my computer is figuring out what is going on, or what. I will most likely go for another ride tonight, and hope for the best. It is unfortunate if this intake is merely now a prettier version of my stock one, but it is a good learning experience none the less. In the meantime, I hope I get this code cleared soon once and for all. With my luck, it will end up causing other shit on my car to fail, and I really don't have the time or money to play that game right now (maybe next week I will though).

From the short time I have been on here, I appreciate all of the tips and pointers. Hopefully, you got me on the right track and I will be in the position to give the new folks similar pointers. As far as this constant unhooking of the battery, I hope it ends soon, so I can reprogram the clock display on my stereo. In the meantime, stay classy San Diego.

Ranger
04-04-09, 09:47 PM
No need to pull battery power to clear codes. The procedure is in the sticky. It's all done through the DIC.

DomDeville
04-04-09, 10:55 PM
****in' A, I learned a lot today. My only current code is "ACM B1341"

B1341 - Air Mix Door Two Movement Fault

Submariner409
04-04-09, 11:03 PM
Go back to para. 3 in Post #2 and get a real shop manual, or spend considerably less and get a 3 year subscription for your car to www.alldatadiy.com . Every sort of every kind of all information ever printed on your car. Seriously. Everything in the shop manual plus 100% more.

Ranger
04-04-09, 11:18 PM
:yup: :yeah: Even if you paid full price for it, it will be money well spent and will pay for itself many times over.

DomDeville
04-04-09, 11:42 PM
OK, I am still having trouble clearing the codes. I couldn't figure out how to get to this on my car.



DTC display; 1998-2004 Seville, 2000-2005 Deville and other models with 3 buttons on the RH side of DIC


Use the 3 switches located to the right (LH drive cars) of the Driver Information Center (DIC) to activate and respond to the OBD prompts on the DIC.

ON/OFF = YES
INFO RESET = NO
INFO DOWN or INFO UP = manual toggle


Ignition ON, acknowledge any warning messages; press ON/OFF and INFO UP together for 2 to 3 seconds. Everything in front of you lights up for 4 or 5 seconds, then you will see:

Display shows "ALL?"

Answering YES will display "ALL CODES?"
Answering YES will run automatic test sequence and display codes, if any. Systems and codes will scroll faster than I am able to read them and write them; not to worry.
"ALL CLEAR CODES?" will display at the end of the automatic test. If you are satisfied you have the information you need, answer YES to clear/erase all error codes.


Answering "ALL?" with INFO DOWN will toggle systems test manually in order.
Answering "ALL?" with INFO UP will toggle system test manually in reverse order.

Press INFO RESET to reset DIC to "ALL?" to start again.

Ignition OFF to exit.


I have a 1999 DeVille. At first, I was down to just the ACM B1341 code which I believe is for my AC, which is irrelevant at the moment. After a quick run to the store and back, my check engine light came back on. I pulled the code and it was PCM P0101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance. Looks like I'll still be going at it.

DomDeville
04-05-09, 12:07 AM
Damn, I hope I don't have to sue these people and/or trade my car in. Here's an e-mail I just sent them:

Today, I went on a 70 mile ride up and down mountains, in and out of storms, various temperature changes, etc. Through out the day, I had unplugged the battery about 8 times for 30 periods. I am still getting my check engine light and pulling codes: P0101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance. Before I installed my sensor onto my intake, I had P0113 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage. Also, my engine cut off three times today. What I want to know, is this thing going to ruin my car? I bought your product to improve the performance of my car, not destroy it. What are my options here? Help me out.

When I first inquired about this product, a gentleman told me that he had installed one on a car like mine and it worked fine. If the car was like mine, how come his worked fine and mine isn't working fine? The person who first told me this was Sam I believe.

Bare with me here, I have a right to be concerned. As it sits, my car would not pass emissions at the moment. Had I been warned of this prior, I'd have never bought this product in the first place. I can only hope that you are accurate in saying that the MAF will trigger the check engine light off over time.

Otherwise, this thing goes way beyond giving me my money back. I might end up with costly repairs, or having to trade my car in because I cannot get it to pass emissions. I love my car, and I don't want it to come to that. However, I'd rather trade it in than get it impounded for driving it unregistered because it cannot pass emissions.

Ranger
04-05-09, 12:30 AM
You won't have to trade it in. Personally, I would go for a refund and put the OEM system back on. It is more than up to the task. I don't know what you put on there, but another thing to keep in mind is that the OEM air box sits on top of the PCM and draws intake air over it to cool it. You most likely bypassed that. Worst case scenario, put the original back and chalk it up to a costly lesson learned (depending on what you paid for it).

DomDeville
04-05-09, 12:52 AM
You won't have to trade it in. Personally, I would go for a refund and put the OEM system back on. It is more than up to the task. I don't know what you put on there, but another thing to keep in mind is that the OEM air box sits on top of the PCM and draws intake air over it to cool it. You most likely bypassed that. Worst case scenario, put the original back and chalk it up to a costly lesson learned (depending on what you paid for it).


Would it clear my codes if I put the OEM back on? Or would it take time?

Necrosan
04-05-09, 07:36 AM
You can clear the codes yourself if you follow the guide.
Get rid of the useless intake you bought, put the stock back on, clear the codes, drive happily without them.

DomDeville
04-05-09, 09:34 AM
You can clear the codes yourself if you follow the guide.
Get rid of the useless intake you bought, put the stock back on, clear the codes, drive happily without them.

I'm going to have to take a picture of the inside of my car, because it seems like the code clearing directions don't correspond with the buttons that I have.:banghead:

Submariner409
04-05-09, 09:52 AM
The OBD-II code reading sequence that you quoted is correct for your car. IF you DO tell it to "clear codes" then it will, and you turn the key off to reset the entire system, BUT, if the fault which threw the code in the first place is still there at any subsequent engine start, the code returns immediately.

The MAF performance code is undoubtedly due to the missing IAT signal and/or a (large) vacuum leak somewhere.

If your MAF is bolted to the throttlebody and the connector is plugged in fully, there's probably nothing wrong with it.

One and two years ago I did a long comparison of my OEM MAF and a mechanically modified unit from JET Performance. The JET MAF constantly threw the MAF codes with no performance increase and a small reduction in gas mileage, so it's in the box on the garage shelf. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, particularly in a 98 - 04 Northstar.

DomDeville
04-05-09, 10:02 AM
Courtesy of JimD


DTC display; 1998-2004 Seville, 2000-2005 Deville and other models with 3 buttons on the RH side of DIC.

I have a 1999 DeVille, doesn't look like it's included in these particular instructions. Is there a hidden set of directions specifically for a 1999 DeVille? I'll double check the links in that sticky, but I sure couldn't find them last night.



Use the 3 switches located to the right (LH drive cars) of the Driver Information Center (DIC) to activate and respond to the OBD prompts on the DIC.

ON/OFF = YES
INFO RESET = NO
INFO DOWN or INFO UP = manual toggle


ON/OFF, RESET, and INFORMATION all look familiar. RESET and INFORMATION are both located on the left of my display, not the right. Can you see why I am confused yet?



Ignition ON, acknowledge any warning messages; press ON/OFF and INFO UP together for 2 to 3 seconds. Everything in front of you lights up for 4 or 5 seconds, then you will see:

Display shows "ALL?"

Answering YES will display "ALL CODES?"
Answering YES will run automatic test sequence and display codes, if any. Systems and codes will scroll faster than I am able to read them and write them; not to worry.
"ALL CLEAR CODES?" will display at the end of the automatic test. If you are satisfied you have the information you need, answer YES to clear/erase all error codes.


Answering "ALL?" with INFO DOWN will toggle systems test manually in order.
Answering "ALL?" with INFO UP will toggle system test manually in reverse order.

Press INFO RESET to reset DIC to "ALL?" to start again.

Ignition OFF to exit.

I hope I am quoting the right instructions from the guide that you speak of. Something still doesn't seem right. :confused:

I will take some pics of my buttons, maybe you folks can help me identify them to correspond with these directions.

If I reset the codes, will it even matter if I keep the aftermarket intake, or switch back to the stock? After all, I am running the IAT sensor now. At least I made this piece of sh!t look like it was made for my car, lol.

DomDeville
04-05-09, 10:12 AM
As soon as your PCM adjusts the fuel/air maps back to original you will go back to the original performance setup. No way around it. So-called cold air intakes are the subject of an incredible number of posts both in here and in Seville/Deville. No gains whatsoever, only more noise which provides a subjective power gain.

It appears that you are looking for performance gains with bolt-on equipment. You're out of luck. The engineers have already done your work. Before you buy magic spark plugs, coils, wire, whatever, come back here and in Deville for advice from a LOT of people who have "been there, done that". WELCOME ABOARD !!!!!!


What you are saying seems to be the gospel. I will now quote the add from the product that I bought. It would appear that they need to do there homework before advertising something increases horsepower. If a person can sue McDonald's for not having "Caution: HOT" printed on there coffee cups, I am sure I could sue these people for not posting "Caution: This product will F! up your car".




__________________________________________________ _____________



AFM Air Intake System

Applications:

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1993 2004 Cadillac Seville NorthStar V8 - 4.0/4.6L
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1992 - 2002 Cadillac Eldorado 4.6L V8

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* Improved sound and nice growl under full throttle.
* Washable & Reusable Air Filter.
* Easy to install by yourself. Installation Manual is included. Tested bolt on unit.


What's included in the package?

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DomDeville
04-05-09, 10:21 AM
The OBD-II code reading sequence that you quoted is correct for your car. IF you DO tell it to "clear codes" then it will, and you turn the key off to reset the entire system, BUT, if the fault which threw the code in the first place is still there at any subsequent engine start, the code returns immediately.

The MAF performance code is undoubtedly due to the missing IAT signal and/or a (large) vacuum leak somewhere.

If your MAF is bolted to the throttlebody and the connector is plugged in fully, there's probably nothing wrong with it.

One and two years ago I did a long comparison of my OEM MAF and a mechanically modified unit from JET Performance. The JET MAF constantly threw the MAF codes with no performance increase and a small reduction in gas mileage, so it's in the box on the garage shelf. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, particularly in a 98 - 04 Northstar.

Oh, so that's the MAF. I didn't even bother with that, and I have no idea where the vacuum leak if there is one would come from because I didn't unhook any vacuum lines. The IAT sensor is now installed in the same configuration as it was on the stock air box, between the engine and filter. If I don't figure this out soon, I found an '04 CTS with 66k for $11,900 in my area. It might be time to trade up. The deal is tempting.

Submariner409
04-05-09, 10:27 AM
I'm not speaking gospel, I'm passing on experience. Lots of us in here, with the Seville/Deville/Eldorado Northstar series of vehicles, have tried almost every form of workaround, tweak, twist, bolt-on, plug, wire, muffler, snake oil, you name it - with varying degrees of success or failure.

What most of us preach is "Do your homework" and "Caveat Emptor". Maybe another would be "Expect no miracles". :sneaky:

DomDeville
04-05-09, 10:34 AM
More back and forth with the seller:

It's just the computer hasn't adjusted to the new airflow, no need to panic, it doesn't ruin anything.

Just let it drive for a while and see that it will actually fix itself.

Mike

How long does it take?

Hello,


engine computer readings airflow by accumulation, so as long as the average reading is within the normal average spec, then it will automatically off by itself. I would say like 4-6 weeks, sometimes sooner.

Thx

Jim

Well, like I said, my car has stalled a few times since adding this part. It's never done that before, ever. 4-6 weeks barely buys me enough time to wait, because I have my registration next month. How much do dealers generally charge to reset these codes?

Hello,


it really depends on the dealer. Sometimes they'll do it at no charge, sometimes they'll do it an hour labor cost at most.


Jim

Here's my plan. If I figure out how to reset my codes, I will first try it on the aftermarket intake which is currently on. If the check engine light stays off, I'll keep it on there, even if all it is doing is giving people something to look at under my hood. However, if it doesn't, I will put the stock airbox back on and reset the codes again. If it still doesn't work, I will look to trade it in, repair it, etc.

I got these people telling me one thing, and you folks telling me the other. My intuition tells me that you folks are the ones steering me in the right direction. At the same time, I want one last attempt to use this thing I payed for and waited for a total of two weeks to finally get the right parts to make it fit. I did notice about a 2 mpg improvement in gas mileage, but if the computer catches on, I probably won't have that anymore either, so I might as well go back to the stock. The battle continues, but there is light at the end of the tunnel.

DomDeville
04-05-09, 10:59 AM
I'm not speaking gospel, I'm passing on experience. Lots of us in here, with the Seville/Deville/Eldorado Northstar series of vehicles, have tried almost every form of workaround, tweak, twist, bolt-on, plug, wire, muffler, snake oil, you name it - with varying degrees of success or failure.

What most of us preach is "Do your homework" and "Caveat Emptor". Maybe another would be "Expect no miracles". :sneaky:


I met the "gospel" thing in a flattering way, not in a sarcastic way. I don't speak Latin, but I know some Spanglish with a little Italian mixed in. What does Caveat Emptor mean?

Submariner409
04-05-09, 11:38 AM
No sarcasm noted or perceived..........

"Let the Buyer Beware"

Ranger
04-05-09, 12:28 PM
Dom, that set up is for 2000+ Devilles. On your car. simultaneously press and hold the OFF & WARMER buttons til the DIC lights up. Now you are in the diagnostic mode and the HIGH FAN button = YES and the LOW FAN button = NO to the prompts.

DomDeville
04-05-09, 02:56 PM
You're a gentleman and a scholar. I will go try that right now. In the meantime, I reinstalled my stock airbox and the P0101 went to "History" when I took it for a spin. The check engine light stayed on, but I'll go try out what you just told me and see what happens. I might still trade her in on a CTS though, I dunno.....

DomDeville
04-05-09, 05:17 PM
As it sits, my car is now back to normal. Lots of lessons learned.

DomDeville
04-06-09, 09:25 AM
Submariner, this guy thinks you are mistaken, yet his argument holds no evidence.


What I wrote:

I talked to someone on the Cadillac Owners forum, and I'm wondering if this is true:

"As soon as your PCM adjusts the fuel/air maps back to original you will go back to the original performance setup. No way around it. So-called cold air intakes are the subject of an incredible number of posts both in here and in Seville/Deville. No gains whatsoever, only more noise which provides a subjective power gain."

If my computer adjusts back to the normal setting, what is the point of even using this intake?

There Response:

Hello,


For this question, ask the guy why installing air intake system show HP, torque gain at all rpm in the dyno test? Anyone in the racing industry knows.

Mike

Submariner409
04-06-09, 10:13 AM
You have the manufacturer's claims, the advice of a Cadillac Forums thread full of replies, and your own hands-on experience.

You should now have enough recent information to form an educated opinion.

99% of CF members will NEVER get into a third party "He said, she said" argument.
(Just as an aside, some of the responses to similar threads on air intake work for the Seville/Deville/Eldorado FWD Northstar platform DO come from those in the racing industry.)

(EDIT: You can always locate a dynamometer, do your "stock" test, then change to the aftermarket intake setup and do it again, but change nothing but the air intake. Nothing.)

Ranger
04-06-09, 04:49 PM
I'd love to hear his response then.