: Wheel Bearing replace?



Povich
03-24-09, 02:09 AM
Need to replace My front driver side bearing and hub assembly! Anybody have any ideas on which brands are decent? Are timken good bearings! Should I call dealer and buy Oem or can I go with another brand? Anybody know whats in an 04 ext?:confused:

DougM
03-24-09, 10:40 AM
(((Anybody have any ideas on which brands are decent))) Are timken good bearings!
These are one of the Best

Povich
03-24-09, 12:37 PM
Autozone has timken for 119$ dealer wants 275$ and thats with a discount through work! Autozone timken a Good replacement? Anyone?

Guyz1996deville
03-24-09, 02:16 PM
Timkin is what Harley-Davidson uses in some of there stuff. The hard thing is not knowing the OD +/- spec. Potencially it coult be too big or to small. I would order the OEM personally off of gmpartsdirect.com. Then you know it is in spec.

hcubed
03-24-09, 03:59 PM
Timken is the world standard by which all other bearing brands are measured.
They have been around a long time, being on the New York Stock exchange since 1922.

I would think that most OEM bearings are Timken....they make a bearing for all applications....automotive, aerospace, etc.

It is very likely that the GM bearing from the dealership is a Timken.

tjfls4
03-24-09, 07:32 PM
I used the Timken to replace my l/f bearing. After replacement the ABS would activate at lower speeds. I watched vehicle speed on the scanner and at lower speeds the Timken would read 2-3mph slower than the right front oem bearing. If you remove the speed sensors on the 2 and compare them there is a difference in design. I believe the Timken is an updated design cause there was a TSB on the oem bearing/sensor causing low speed ABS activation. Long story short the Timken is fine but replace them both. That's what I wound up doing and 2 Timkens are cheaper than 1 dealer part anyway. all is well for over a Year now. hope this helps.

pcguy760
03-24-09, 09:52 PM
Any brand of wheel bearing made in a ISO certified or QS certified plant would be good because it's made to top quality and safety standards.

jago21
08-28-09, 10:58 AM
I used the Timken to replace my l/f bearing. After replacement the ABS would activate at lower speeds. I watched vehicle speed on the scanner and at lower speeds the Timken would read 2-3mph slower than the right front oem bearing. If you remove the speed sensors on the 2 and compare them there is a difference in design. I believe the Timken is an updated design cause there was a TSB on the oem bearing/sensor causing low speed ABS activation. Long story short the Timken is fine but replace them both. That's what I wound up doing and 2 Timkens are cheaper than 1 dealer part anyway. all is well for over a Year now. hope this helps.
When you the ABS would activate at a lower speed what exactly do you mean? Did you feel your brake pedal pulsate when you brake at low speed? Because that's what I'm getting after I replaced the L/F bearing. If it is so this means I need to change the left side as well right? Thanks in advance for any advice.

sk7
08-28-09, 08:47 PM
The 2 different readings at low speed would fool the EBCM into thinking there is wheel slippage, and activating the ABS system to help you keep control even if its not required. The TSB recall on those bearing in the late 90's early 2000 was about that (false readings caused by rust buildup in the sensors). I would replace both fronts as tjfls4 suggested and be done with it.

pcguy760
08-30-09, 06:40 AM
I seconds that - its kinda like changing your front brakes - you rather not do one side lol.

oldworld
08-30-09, 09:46 AM
Now this may seem like a dumb question, but what exactly is a hub when referencing front wheel bearings?
I have done wheel bearings on other vehicles in the past, and just replaced the bearings themselves. $40 job for both sides.
Can anyone enlighten me on hub replacement??? :confused:

sk7
08-30-09, 04:39 PM
The bearing comes with the hub and includes the ABS speed sensor, pic from the service manual:

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq102/sk7_1969/Escalade/BEARING.gif

oldworld
08-30-09, 08:09 PM
soooooooooo then safe to assume that in order to either replace rotors or have them resurfaced, you need to remove the hubs anyway. My lade has 80k miles on it, and will need brakes (front) before the winter. If you guys were doing this job, and had to take it all apart would you just chamge the hubs with the bearings when you do the brakes??
I assume also that the bearings are pre-installed in the hubs and pre-greased?
Let me know what you guys think. :hmm:

sk7
08-30-09, 10:04 PM
Picture above is viewed from inside looking out, the disc can come off and the hub stays in place. I replaced disc and pads up front already (with one guide pin on the left side caliper not coming out), no need to mess with the hubs or bearings. If ABS works ok, no noize or loose in the wheel, just replace discs and pads imo.

oldworld
09-01-09, 10:56 PM
Thanks sk7

jago21
09-07-09, 06:02 PM
When you the ABS would activate at a lower speed what exactly do you mean? Did you feel your brake pedal pulsate when you brake at low speed? Because that's what I'm getting after I replaced the L/F bearing. If it is so this means I need to change the left side as well right? Thanks in advance for any advice.

ok now I've changed both front bearings and still getting the same problem, a vibration feel on the brake pedal sometimes when i brake at a slow speed. I then noticed a small leak inside next to the firewall where the hydrobooster comes in so i replaced the hydorbooster hoping it will fix it but nothing still the same problem. I guess my question would be is there a code i have to clear or something when i replaced the wheel bearings? because i never had a check engine light or brake light come on at all and i checked it with a scanner and no codes. Totally lost as to what to do next. Any help would be appricated.

sk7
09-07-09, 09:01 PM
Maybe the vibration you are experiencing isnt caused by the ABS kickin in? There is no need to reset any codes when replacing the bearings. You did the right thing by replacing both units, at least the same pulse signal will be sent to the ECBM. If the ABS is activated you will also feel the ECBM motor pulsating under the drivers seat (its attached to the frame right under the floor in that area). Other issue would be the sensor for the back wheels, which is on the transmission.

jago21
09-08-09, 02:29 PM
Maybe the vibration you are experiencing isnt caused by the ABS kickin in? There is no need to reset any codes when replacing the bearings. You did the right thing by replacing both units, at least the same pulse signal will be sent to the ECBM. If the ABS is activated you will also feel the ECBM motor pulsating under the drivers seat (its attached to the frame right under the floor in that area). Other issue would be the sensor for the back wheels, which is on the transmission.

I drove the truck right after you wrote this and I do feel the ECBM motor under the driver seat, so it is the ABS kickin in. So the question would be what is making the ABS kick in? And again this started the same day I changed the first front wheel bearing.

sk7
09-08-09, 04:55 PM
I wonder if the different frequency of signals from the front wheels, who now doesnt match the back signal, would fool the ECBM into thinking the back end is slipping and activating the ABS? Maybe ewill can chime in and offer advice, like recalibrate the ECBM module for the new data? I got proscan software on my laptop with an ELM327 plug, I'm pretty sure its possible to monitor the ABS signal from different source with this software, but I've never done it. Sure is a pita to have the ABS kick in for no apparent reason! I still recall my first encounter with ABS, on my 1995 Sonoma, I was coming in a bit quick to a stop after a sharp 90 degree turn, pedal starts to pulsate and there's this lound buzzing sound! I just let go of the brakes thinking wtf is going on and drove right tru the intersection! Good thing nobody was there... Yeah its a more safety oriented system...

jago21
09-08-09, 06:34 PM
Yeah I just took it to a tire and brake shop and the guy drove it and said that it was ABS kickin in and said the same thing you did sky7 and that I needed to reset all four same speed sensors but it was too late to do it today but I'm going to take in tomorrow to see if that fixes it. Man I hope they can fix it.

sk7
09-08-09, 08:30 PM
Keep us posted! Only tool that can reprogram the ECBM is a tech 2 scanner. Hope it doesnt cost too much $$$...

jago21
09-20-09, 10:51 AM
I decided to take it to the dealer instead and they told me that the speed sensors on the aftermarket wheel bearings were not sending the same signals to the EBCM and making it think that the wheels are slipping. So tomorrow I'm going to replace the passenger sided with the original (there wasn't anything wrong with it in the first place) and I bought an OEM wheel bearing from Chevy to replace the driver side where all of my ABS problems started in the first place and hopefully that should take care of my problems! I know I should of done that in the first place but you got to make mistakes to learn from them. Like they at my work if you don't do anything wrong that means you aren't doing anything. I'll keep ya posted tomorrow!!!

jago21
09-21-09, 10:23 PM
Well I replaced the wheel bearing with an OEM wheel bearing now i have OEM on both sides and it seems that it took care of my ABS activating problem I drove it for a while to test and my ABS didn't come on once so crossing my fingers it will stay like that. I'm sure glad that problem is fixed it was getting on my nerves. So now I know always buy OEM even if costs more you end up saving money and headaches in the long run and I say this from experince.:thepan:

sk7
09-21-09, 10:31 PM
I really appreciate your update on this! I'm currently trying to get the EBCM to work properly, and I just can predict that as soon as this will be functionnal, the front sensors are gonna be the next issue! I was planning to buy aftermarket ones (Ebay) as they are a bargain compared to OEM, I will reconsider...

jago21
09-22-09, 04:30 PM
Hey sky7 after all the headaches I went through I don't think I'll ever buy anything mechanical aftermarket for my EXT. That's just my opinion though!! Good luck with yours!!

kycop
04-01-10, 09:39 PM
Just bought a NATIONAL.... Federal Mogul wheel hub assembly advanced auto wanted 180.00 i purchased at fischers (federal auto parts) for 120.00
they had I think it was tpi or somthing like that.. said they were 98.00 or 108.00 at fischers (federal) and advanced auto had them for 140.00 i cant remember but both places said they wouldnt recommend it because they were the cheapest parts you could buy..

I hope that is the problem, wife went shopping called said escalade was making a rubbing noise when she turned right. I drove it and it sounds nasty when you make a right hand turn, it is the driver side making the noise..:(

kycop
04-05-10, 08:35 PM
installed works fine no issues at all,