: Hack Repairs



Guyz1996deville
03-17-09, 11:56 AM
Hello All,

I have heard so much of people doing there own repairs. Alot of brakes and other wear items. All I have to say is make the initial purchase of the factory service manual or something, and read it. I am scared to know that people are trying to do there brakes with out torx bits, and I am sure they more than likely do not have silicone lube, anti sieze, torque wrenches, and all of the good toys years or wrenching seems to get you. I am not bitching, nor do I care about your trucks. What I do care about is your family's and other drivers on the road. Research and learn your stuff, then turn the wrenches. Ask questions here and take some notes. Your repairs will be cheaper and you will learn your truck.....:thumbsup:

fierodough
03-17-09, 03:32 PM
Hello All,

I have heard so much of people doing there own repairs. Alot of brakes and other wear items. All I have to say is make the initial purchase of the factory service manual or something, and read it. I am scared to know that people are trying to do there brakes with out torx bits, and I am sure they more than likely do not have silicone lube, anti sieze, torque wrenches, and all of the good toys years or wrenching seems to get you. I am not bitching, nor do I care about your trucks. What I do care about is your family's and other drivers on the road. Research and learn your stuff, then turn the wrenches. Ask questions here and take some notes. Your repairs will be cheaper and you will learn your truck.....:thumbsup:

Most people who do their own repairs and maintenance take the time to do it right because they care about their investment. Torx bits are found in most ratchet sets, silicone lube and anti seize are relatively cheap and can be bought in individual "ketchup" style packages. Torque wrenches are handy, but often not really needed for most maintenance. (When you put your spare tire on last, dud you take out the torque wrench and make sure the lug nuts where at 80 foot pounds?)

Honestly, it's harder to find an honest mechanic that won't cut corners to make a buck. I rather know I did it and I did it right.

I would never discourage someone from working on their own vehicle. By learning some of the basics, your are less likely to be taken for a financial ride at the dealer for a major repair. In this recession, it wise to save where you can.

Cheers!

jwtjwt
03-17-09, 10:43 PM
I have spent so much time reading and trying to get it right I am thinking of just taking it to the DEALER. I can defly do it better than the street Mechanic. You're RIGHT.

fierodough
03-18-09, 06:08 AM
I have spent so much time reading and trying to get it right I am thinking of just taking it to the DEALER. I can defly do it better than the street Mechanic. You're RIGHT.


If you are talking about brakes, trust me, it's not hard.

Remove the wheel. Remove the Torx screws from the caliper and use an old hanger to support the caliper. Do not let it hang on the flex hose.

Using a pair or channel locks, compress the oldpad gently over the brake cylinder. Keep an eye on the brake reservoir to make sure it does not overflow.

Take some time to grease the sliders with sylicone. Sand any rust or dirt off the surface that he caliper "sits" on to slide. Apply some anti-seuize to this area.

Not always needed, but I like to add some anti-squealing cream to the back of the pads beffore I install them.

Clip your new pads in the caliper.

Examine your rotor for cracks or pitting. You may need to have it turned (machined). If your pads have a surfacing layer and your rotors are in good shape (no gauges) you should be good to go.

re-assemble the caliper, put the wheel back on and repeat. :)

Sorry about my typing or spelling... it's 6 AM!

Cheers!

Guyz1996deville
03-18-09, 12:23 PM
Good post Fierodogh. Pumping the shoes in after your service, and burnishing the new pads in is always a good practice. I figure since I spent 200 dollars on a mac FT/LB torque wrench, same with the IN/LB I had might as well use Them. So, yes I do use my torque wrench. I am not in a rush to make sure I get stuff done in flat rate.

oldworld
03-18-09, 12:32 PM
Personally, if I can do it myself, I will do it myself. I know there are no short cuts, I control the quality of the parts I use, and I save some money most of the time. Plus it gives me the opportunity to spend some fun time with my two sons who are usually more than eager to help......especially if on their cars..lol

I have to say this............just because you "hire" someone to do the work for you in no way guarantees the job is done right. Look in the shops...........new guys all the time. They come and go. Too many times in the past things were done almost right....but no cigar and had to be redone, or something else had to be done to fix the damage their repair caused.

Taking it to the Cadillac dealer may give you some sort comfort, but at what price. Do you think they do everything 100% and by the book???? It is after all a car dealership. Car dealerships all have ONE common goal. MAKE $$$$$.
Doing as little as possible for the most money is their motto.
For me, I work too hard for my money to have Cadillac do regular maint., and a 100% premium.

oldworld
03-18-09, 12:35 PM
One last thing...............
In case you are not certain about attempting a repair, you can get exact instructions from many sources.
You can usually find it online with google.
You can buy or review a chiltons book.
Most auto part dealers (Auto Zone, Advance etc) have print outs for exact instructions. They even loan you the tools so you DON'T have to spend $200 on a MAC or Snap on Tool, that you will use twice in your life.
As always, thats just my two cents....for whatever its worth

Guyz1996deville
03-18-09, 01:13 PM
When you have $20,000 in tools, $200.00 bucks is really nothing too outlandish. Put it this way I haven't had a derby box since I was a child:) Vaculla on the brake jobs works wonders too. Suck some fluid out so you are not pouring out the Res. I am a MMI Graduate with degrees in Harley-Davidson early model, late model, and engine rebuild and performance. Wrenched in the field for years and still on the side in my shop. I was a designer at Harley-Davidson's Product devolopment center in the Componment test and evaluation lab. I know that there is reasons that processes are set. I would say to spend the extra money and get the FSM not the Chiltons, or Helms. Just my two cents. I love the discussions going everyone. Finally some new posts for people to comment on. :)

oldworld
03-18-09, 01:39 PM
Well................I have a $300 set of sears craftsman tools, with some odds and ends I picked up along the years. Not much I can;t do with that set...lol

If I were in the business, who knows I might have $30,000 in tools. Had to one up ya....lol
Anyway, for the average Joe who may not be as forunate or as skilled in the automotive field, we do what we can with what we have. I will tackle the things I believe I can handle. Manuals always help....I will check out the ones you suggested....I mentioned chiltons because really thats the only name that I could remember while growing up.

I guess my whole thought was please do not believe that just because you have your vehicle serviced by a so called pro, don't be surprised if you really did get serviced.....
Thats my three cents!!! :stirpot: Good discussion

Guyz1996deville
03-19-09, 01:10 PM
That is why I come here, to learn. You guys, and gals are all good stuff. I hope I don't come over as insulting. But I am educated and know what is what. Just my 90000000000000000000000000000000 cents worth. Have fun and keep bloging. I visit here every day. Picking up the truck today with the trans updates. I will keep you updated.

oldworld
03-19-09, 02:34 PM
Please let me know what happened if anything with the transmission and the updates?
Help?
Cost?
Recommend?

THANKS

digitalcaddie
03-21-09, 07:39 PM
Examine your rotor for cracks or pitting. You may need to have it turned (machined). If your pads have a surfacing layer and your rotors are in good shape (no gauges) you should be good to go.

re-assemble the caliper, put the wheel back on and repeat. :)



If you're using this procedure to do your first brake job, he forgot one VERY important step. After you put the wheels back on and start the truck, you'll need to pump the brake pedal a couple times PRIOR to putting it in gear to tighten up the caliper. A buddy at work did his first brake job, forgot that important step and backed into his neighbor's car since he had no brakes. Other than that, that is a good step by step procedure.

oldworld
03-21-09, 10:45 PM
Hey guyz1996deville..............how did the trans updates work out?? Curious

Guyz1996deville
03-24-09, 02:24 AM
Hey guyz1996deville..............how did the trans updates work out?? Curious

SOOOOO here is how it went. I brought my truck in for the trans rebuild two Sundays ago and they said it would be ready on Wednesday. I call on Wednesday and they told me I could pick it up on Thursday. Keep in Mind the reason I brought it in was because of RPM spikes between 1-2, as well as 3-4. I pick the truck up and the first thing I do is hit the freeway to check it out. 1-2, and it slips. I keep it to the boards and 3-4 does the same thing. About this time I am furious. I just paid 1450 in cash to make sure it is right on the money now. I turned right around and dropped it off again. They dropped the trans and installed a shift kit for me. I have a nice solid hook up on 1-2 but 3-4 are still slipping. SO I pull into my driveway and the trans fluid smells like it is burning off of my exhauast. I look underneith and there is about 2 quarts of fluid on my concrete already. I called back and was totally irate at this time. I brought it back and they put it up on the lift and found out the gasket was hanging outside of the pan" hacks"...

All in all

Shifts hard into second - pretty nice really
Shifts soft into fourth with a RPM spike.
Highway speeds turns off cruise control- indicates neutral
holds fluid now and shifts thru the gears.

I am going to bring it back on wednesday and tell then to see what they can do with the shifting and indicater on Wednesday.

oldworld
03-24-09, 09:41 AM
Sad story..............
I had my transmission rebuilt about a month ago.
Took about 5 days. Finally happy to pick it up, sign the paperwork, and one the way home, I notice a very hard downshift from 3-2 and 2-1.
I go to get on the highway, and I notice that spike you refer to between 2-3.
Never had any of those issues before.

I call on the following Monday and they ask me to bring it in when I can.
Now I notice a few drops of tranny fluid on my VERY CLEAN DRIVEWAY.
I live in a very affluent neighborhood, and those drops are unsightly....lol

Anyway, I swing by, and they tell me that there are no codes, and that they will do whatever they have to to make it right.

Was even told to drive it alittle and that may stop the problem.
I have been driving it now two weeks and still doing the same thing.
Now I also notice that as soon as the vehicle starts, it sort of like jolts every so slightly, like it wants to go in gear. Not all the time, but 50/50

I took the truck to the alignment shop about a week ago to check the alignment, and of course I had to look under the vehicle while it was on the lift.
I notice that the tranny is leaking. I notice also that there are two pan bolts missing to the rear of the tranny. I am to say right now pissed.

Thats what I was trying to say before.............just because you have a so called :professional" do the work, does not in any way guarantee a perfect job. We took our vehicles in to get serviced.....
The only that that got serviced was us........................:thepan:

Bringing mine back this week. I will let you know whats up...
Anyone every had a similar problem with the vehicle sort of wanting to move forward upon starting??
THANKS GUYS

Guyz1996deville
03-24-09, 01:25 PM
They Will get theres! I cannot do a trans. That is why I researched the most reputable shop I could find. As far as that goes I will keep you updated. Throw in a shift kit. And I was talking about HACKS. Two bolts missing!!!!!!!!!!! I would be irate....
Plus I notice the traction control was turned off when the test driver got back. You know he was beating it. I will beat him now....

oldworld
03-24-09, 01:45 PM
I will watch for you on CNN.................lol:D
My wife is a defense attorney, in case you need her services for your assumed first degree assault charge.....

digitalcaddie
03-24-09, 03:40 PM
Mine kinda of lurches some times at start-up. Maybe less than 10% of the time. I never thought it was a problem. Also the speedometer will occasionally move up to 10-15mph if I rev the engine to 4000-4500 rpm while in P or N. Those were two problems I wasn't going to worry about.

oldworld
03-24-09, 05:58 PM
Well, the fact that the original GM tranny never ever did that lurch upon startup tells me that something is not right.
When I bring it back I will inquire and post the results here.

fierodough
03-26-09, 08:25 AM
Bringing mine back this week. I will let you know whats up...
Anyone every had a similar problem with the vehicle sort of wanting to move forward upon starting??
THANKS GUYS

Sounds like the shift lever (or cable) is out of allignment at the transmission. Its not "properly" in park. And that can be very dangerous! Go on a level surgface with nothing in front of you and try starting it a few times in neutral. if it does take off on you, you will have time to react. If it's not the shift lever, then there is something internal binding.... and that could be causing serious damage! You almost need an independant shop to tear it apart and inspect it carefully. The shop you are at might just try to patch any damage they cause just long enough for the repair warranty to expire.