: Brake Fluid Choice?



soundexp
03-16-09, 09:34 AM
I am installing new cross-drilled GM rotors, stainless lines and Hawk pads on my 06' V. I want to replace the brake fluid as well and wonder what everybody is using in racing fluid. From the looks of the specs the Brembo fluid seems to be the best all around choice with a dry boiling point of 601 degrees and 396 degrees wet. Any thoughts? Also any idea what the fluid capacity is of the system? As always thanks for any help.

Kmajecki
03-16-09, 09:49 AM
I am using Motul 600 for clutch and brake fluids

http://www.viewfinders-intl.com/viewfindersintl/images/stories/categories/brakefluid/brake%20fluid.jpg

NormV
03-16-09, 10:14 AM
You will not get to far in the race with those cross drill rotors. They are mostly for show.

The system uses a quart or liter. Remember bleed inside first, then outside.

Norm

PISNUOFF
03-16-09, 10:28 AM
I am using Motul 600 for clutch and brake fluids

http://www.viewfinders-intl.com/viewfindersintl/images/stories/categories/brakefluid/brake%20fluid.jpg

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

ctsv154
03-16-09, 11:40 AM
For the money and some of the best performing fliud, Motul RBF 600 cannot be beat.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BRAKEFLUID

Slithering_Joe
03-16-09, 11:43 AM
You will not get to far in the race with those cross drill rotors. They are mostly for show. ...
Norm

I agree. I've noticed that the hardcore guys at the track all use plain rotors. Even the Porsche and BMW M cars all change out their drilled rotors for the plain ones.

NormV
03-16-09, 12:17 PM
Heat is still generated in the friction of the pad and rotor. Which is absorbed into wheel hub, spindle, caliper rubber boot, and wheel. Spending extra on a band-aid like brake fluid is just going cause problems down the road like melted boot seals, infamous gold calipers, warped rotors... Last time I bought Valvoine Syn Power it was 1/3 the price of that stuff! Along with some ducting to the inside of the rotor that is all you need.


Norm

nmaier2201
03-16-09, 12:26 PM
Motul RBF600 FTW! I'll be the third one to say it...becuase it's that much better than OEM

branland
03-16-09, 02:29 PM
You will not get to far in the race with those cross drill rotors. They are mostly for show.

The system uses a quart or liter. Remember bleed inside first, then outside.

Norm

Luke told me that UUC is about to release 2-piece slotted rotors in a few weeks. I've already warped my stock rotors. I ready to buy

Do any of you guys pressure bleed your brakes? I have a Phoenix systems bleeder, but I can't get the adapter to fit on the master cylinder.
(Didn't mean to high jack your thread)

rjoffe
03-16-09, 02:34 PM
Heat is still generated in the friction of the pad and rotor. Which is absorbed into wheel hub, spindle, caliper rubber boot, and wheel. Spending extra on a band-aid like brake fluid is just going cause problems down the road like melted boot seals, infamous gold calipers, warped rotors... Last time I bought Valvoine Syn Power it was 1/3 the price of that stuff! Along with some ducting to the inside of the rotor that is all you need.


Norm

Norm,

Got any pics of the ducts ?

NormV
03-16-09, 03:09 PM
Check out my build up thread for pics of the ducts. Probably going to go with flexible hosing as there is not much room for the tire when turning.

I use speed bleeders from the C5 Corvette. I think they are made by Russell.

Norm

justin311
03-16-09, 03:22 PM
I use ATE Super Blue.

thebigjimsho
03-16-09, 06:23 PM
I use ATE Super Blue.
That will work for 99.5% of the V owners and is a great, affordable fluid. But I've been using the Motul RBF600 fluid as well...

Bueller
03-16-09, 06:36 PM
Motul RBF660...Really what's the difference between the 660 or 600 both great fluids.

thebigjimsho
03-16-09, 11:48 PM
Motul RBF660...Really what's the difference between the 660 or 600 both great fluids.
$$$$

ccextra1976
03-17-09, 12:03 AM
$$$$

didn't u say once that u boiled the super blue at the track??

thebigjimsho
03-17-09, 12:24 AM
yes. but you'd be hard-pressed to get your brakes as hot as I had on that summer day at VIR...

ccextra1976
03-17-09, 12:26 AM
yes. but you'd be hard-pressed to get your brakes as hot as I had on that summer day at VIR...

:hmm: no pun intended:histeric:

thebigjimsho
03-17-09, 12:36 AM
hmm...

ccextra1976
03-17-09, 12:37 AM
hmm...

you done yet?

thebigjimsho
03-17-09, 12:42 AM
probably not...

soundexp
03-17-09, 10:15 AM
Thanks guys for all your replies.....obviously I will use the Motul RBF600 since there seems to be a solid consensus. As foir the cross-drilled GM Performance rotors when I spoke to Luke before I ordered them he said I should only be concerned if I am going to track it regularly. I'm sure I won't track it more than a couple of times a year and if that's the case I shouldn't see any of the cracks.......should I?

rjoffe
03-17-09, 10:38 AM
I have 5 track days on mine, and they look very good, no visible signs or cracking at all.

thebigjimsho
03-17-09, 11:35 AM
meh. slotted looks better than drilled.

rjoffe
03-17-09, 11:41 AM
I didn't mean from a appearance point of view, but rather from a mechanical point of view.

But the drilled vs slotted vs whatever is an individual choice :D

soundexp
03-17-09, 11:49 AM
The slotted rotors on the GT3 that I race regularly eats up brake pads. My thinking was I would get increased cooling (less fade) and not go through the pads so quickly. As I said before I won't be racing it alot.

thebigjimsho
03-17-09, 11:55 AM
drilled is a piss poor choice...

Bueller
03-17-09, 11:57 AM
You race a GT3 but ask us about brake fluid? Why didn't you ask your mechanics? Seems odd.

What do you use in the GT3?

hmm...

thebigjimsho
03-17-09, 11:58 AM
indeed.

soundexp
03-17-09, 12:13 PM
You race a GT3 but ask us about brake fluid? Why didn't you ask your mechanics? Seems odd.

What do you use in the GT3?

hmm...
Sadly, it is not my GT3 but a close friends. I am just fortunate enough to get to track it regulary and I wanted your thoughts because of the combined experience with the V that you guys have, which is a street ride that weighs in at well over a 1000 lbs. more.........oh and BTW it uses Motul RBF660 and I wanted some thoughts as to whether I should spend the extra bucks.

PISNUOFF
03-17-09, 12:51 PM
If you have any experience at the track, and it sounds like you do, you're going to be cracking those rotors. My cross drilled fronts lasted 2 track days. I now run slotted and have the same braking power without the cracking.

soundexp
03-17-09, 03:20 PM
If you have any experience at the track, and it sounds like you do, you're going to be cracking those rotors. My cross drilled fronts lasted 2 track days. I now run slotted and have the same braking power without the cracking.
Were they the GM Performance versions or aftermarket?

BacDoc
05-29-09, 03:23 PM
I'm bringing fluid back.

I picked up some Ford HD fluid, dry temp of 500F and 284 wet. I don't plan on doing much hard core racing just looking for something to compliment my slots and hawk pads.

What say you? Worth the bleeding effort?

thebigjimsho
05-29-09, 11:42 PM
I'm bringing fluid back.

I picked up some Ford HD fluid, dry temp of 500F and 284 wet. I don't plan on doing much hard core racing just looking for something to compliment my slots and hawk pads.

What say you? Worth the bleeding effort?
I used that fluid in my SHO. In fact, I still have a bottle in the garage that's rusting through...

It's a good fluid for almost any car and the wet boiling point doesn't matter until the fluid gets older and moisture gets in. But I think the V's system can hit 500 degrees in track use. Maybe not easily, but I needed to go from ATE to the Motul 600...

But for street and aggressive use, the Ford fluid should be good. And cheap. Although ATE is inexpensive too...

c4ss
05-29-09, 11:46 PM
Put in Motul. For a few bucks more you can sleep better at night.

psycho43142
05-30-09, 03:31 AM
I use AP Super 600 in mine.

C66 Racing
05-30-09, 06:47 PM
I use the relatively new AMSOIL Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Specialty%20Products/BF4PB.htm) (product code BF4SN) in my track day 02 Corvette Z06 and haven't had any brake or fluid over heating problems. I run the essentially stock Vette brake system, but do have Carbotec XP12 pads, DRM brake ducts with Phoenix spindle duct fittings, and Goodridge SS lines.

This fluid has a dry ERBP of 580F and wet ERBP of 410F. I feel that the wet boiling point is the more important one as it is more indicative of the fluids boiling point after it has absorbed some moisture (3%) which is possible in a car that doesn't see very regular fluid changes. :cheers:

NormV
05-31-09, 01:18 PM
Brake ducting is the key in the C5. I run completely stock setup with Valvoine Synpower Autozone fluid with brake ducts in my C5 at Road America on street tires with no problem. Valvoine stuff is less than $10/quart.

The C5 setup is not on par with the V's fixed mounted Brembos so it's not a good comparison.

Norm

Norm


I use the relatively new AMSOIL Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Specialty%20Products/BF4PB.htm) (product code BF4SN) in my track day 02 Corvette Z06 and haven't had any brake or fluid over heating problems. I run the essentially stock Vette brake system, but do have Carbotec XP12 pads, DRM brake ducts with Phoenix spindle duct fittings, and Goodridge SS lines.

This fluid has a dry ERBP of 580F and wet ERBP of 410F. I feel that the wet boiling point is the more important one as it is more indicative of the fluids boiling point after it has absorbed some moisture (3%) which is possible in a car that doesn't see very regular fluid changes. :cheers:

Slithering_Joe
05-31-09, 01:57 PM
Brake ducting is the key in the C5.
That is the key with any car. By getting ambient air to the hat of the rotor, one will greatly increase the performance of the braking system. Many benefits from reducing the exposure to ultra-high temperatures.

NormV
05-31-09, 02:03 PM
That is the key with any car.

That is the key with any production passenger car. As an instructor with half dozen clubs you should see the monster brake systems that owners throw on their car that does not incorporate ducting. Either that or they're trying to sell the newest snake oil. :)

Norm

trukk
06-04-09, 11:12 PM
I have 5 track days on mine, and they look very good, no visible signs or cracking at all.


If you have any experience at the track, and it sounds like you do, you're going to be cracking those rotors. My cross drilled fronts lasted 2 track days. I now run slotted and have the same braking power without the cracking.

I had the same experience as PSNUOFF. I scored my original rotors, and had to get new ones ASAP. Lindsay only had the GM crossdrilleds in stock, so I went with those. They got spider cracks up fron after about 2 HPDE's. The rears were fine. I switched back to the OEM's up front, and was lazy and kept the rear cross drilled. Looks a bit ghetto, but I don;t give a fluck.


I use ATE Super Blue.

Same here. I've used the ATE Super Blue / 200 (gold) combination, and Motul. Motul is just so much more expensive, I'd rather use that extra money towards other track consumables. I also really like going from the Amber to the Blue, and back, as it really makes swapping fluid a LOT easier.

I have no issues spending money on this car, but there are somethings that aren't justified to me, and using anything more expensive than ATE is one of those areas.

Put the money you saved on brake fluid, to some better brake pads :D

-Chris

thebigjimsho
06-05-09, 01:11 AM
Put the money you saved on brake fluid, to some better brake pads :D

-Chris
hmm...sounds fishy to me...

BacDoc
06-05-09, 09:43 AM
I left the factory fluid in with the UUC slots and HPS pads and it was a non issue at the autocross event. Brakes worked phenomenally.

thebigjimsho
06-05-09, 10:34 AM
phenomenally what?

Feffman
06-05-09, 01:41 PM
I've run Elf HTX in all my vehicles for several years now and it's great. My second choice is Motul. You can pick either one up at the Performance Oil Store (www.PerformanceOilStore.com)

Feff

rjoffe
06-05-09, 03:05 PM
I've been running something called GS610. The company that made it went broke, so I got quite a bit for dirt cheap. Wilwood bought the license to manufacture it, and now it is called EXP 600 PLUS.

Ron

BacDoc
06-05-09, 03:11 PM
phenomenally what?

Well. They were a non issue. :)

trukk
06-10-09, 01:33 PM
I left the factory fluid in with the UUC slots and HPS pads and it was a non issue at the autocross event. Brakes worked phenomenally.


phenomenally what?

HPS's are teh suck. summer tires will easily overpower those pads at the track. When I had my orignial OEM GY- F1SC's on the car, I couldn't even get the car to go into ABS with Hawk HPS's on the car. I swapped to HP+'s (at track cost no less, OUCH!), and I immediately went from tires outperforming brakes, to brakes outperforming tires.

I suppose if you have RSA all seasons, then HPS's might outperform them (or some other crap tires.)

I went through the same thing when I went to Hoosiers with the HP+'s. That's when I switched to carbotech's.

Not trying to bash, just providing my experience.

BTW, I found a pic of my cracked OEM drilled rotors after a few track days:

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/6981/008wl6.jpg


-Chris

ahahnu
06-22-09, 07:16 PM
You will not get to far in the race with those cross drill rotors. They are mostly for show.

The system uses a quart or liter. Remember bleed inside first, then outside.

Norm
I'm going to buy fluid tonight. Whichone is it a quart or a liter?