: control arm bushings

03-07-09, 08:08 AM
2001 catera

Helo everyone how had is it to replace the lower control arm bushings on a
2001 catera i have looked at it and it don't look to hard is there and think i need to look out for when doing it i have order the parts man for something so small from a auto parts they cost alot but luckly for me i found them on ebay any help on this mater thanks

This is what i have had done so far.

I just replace the pads and rotors on both front and real with 4 new tires and had tie rods /idler arm replaced and had a 4 wheel alignment and 4 wheel balance it still shaking very bad. only when i break

frank moran
03-07-09, 09:32 PM
they are not too hard to replace, however you may have to get an alignment....if you mark the bolts to strut locations you may be able to get away without an alignment.. As a suggestion use a sawzall to cut the bushing shell, be careful of the control arm. Have someone press them in, dont hammer them in as the control arm can be bent rather easley. You can make up a jacking screw arrangment to pull them in but in the end a press is better.

03-15-09, 02:31 AM
Updated 03-15- 2009

Here are the suspension components (stock calibrations and upgrades) which I have found for the Catera. Beware, some of this is educated guesswork. Since we now know that GTO front & rear springs and rear shock absorbers will fit the Catera I'm assuming that aftermarket GTO springs and shocks will fit also. There's no good reason they shouldn't but to be on the safe side I feel I must warn you. Same goes for the BMW front bushings and Commodore rear bushings. Other Catera/Omega B owners have installed the BMW bushings successfully and with good results. I haven't performed these upgrades yet but will when the money appears. I trust the info I've received from other owners but that's me. For the whole story follow this link to the original thread.

Catera/Omega Suspension Upgrades:


Front Suspension

Homemade Bearing Tool (Removal/Installation)
Simple homemade tool to pull the bushings out & in.
YouTube - Rubber bushing removal

Ingalls Engineering Camber Adjusting Bolt: part # IEC-I-81260
Eccentric bolts to increase camber range for lowered front suspension.

RockAuto (OEM Replacements):
SPICER Control Arm, Rear/Vertical Bushing: Part # 5651329
ACDELCO Control Arm, Rear/Vertical Bushing: Part # 45G9329 {#19187194}

Meyle Bushings BMW E34/M5 HD Bushings: part # 31121136607MY
Heavy Duty rubber front horizontal BMW/M5 bushing for Omega/Catera.

Meyle Bushings (Opel Omega)
Front Horizontal Bushing 58.5mm: part # 614 035 0016
Rear Vertical Bushing 48.5mm: part # 614 035 0010
Rubber bushings for the Opel Omega/Catera. I have sent emails to Meyle and German Auto Salvage asking whether these bushings are Heavy Duty. No answer yet.

Meyle Control Arms w/bushings & ball joints: part # 616 050 0017(Left) - 616 050 0018(Right)
New wishbones loaded with Meyle rubber bushings & balljoint.

NOTE: Meyle makes a large range of replacement parts for the Opel Omega that we can use in our Cateras.
Use their search engine and leave the the last box [select...(not required)].

Korman Autoworks:
BMW M5 (E34) Heavy-Duty Thrust Rod Bushings: part # 3112567
Heavy Duty BMW/M5 bushing for Catera front/horizontal control arm bushing.

1993 BMW/M5 Thrust Arm Bushing: part # K90137
BMW OE bushing for Catera/Omega front/horizontal bushing.

Bavarian AutoSport:
BMW/M5 Upper Control Arm Bushing: part # : 31 12 2 226 528
OE rubber M5 bushing for Catera/Omega front/horizontal bushing.

Bavarian AutoSport: BMW/M5 Upper Control Arm Bushing: part # N81368BAV (polyurethane)
"Our exclusive street performance bushings and mounts are made with a more forgiving urethane formula! During spirited driving, polyurethane bushings and mounts provide more responsive handling and maintain better control over suspension geometry than stock bushings. Along with this improvement in handling, though, comes a stiffer ride -- a welcome side-effect on a smooth race track, but much more noticeable on the streets. Our street performance urethane is formulated with a touch of polyester. This new compound is more forgiving than 100% urethane, so it’s better for street BMWs."

Powerflex BMW E34/M5: part # PFF5-601 (polyurethane)
Polyurethane front horizontal BMW/M5 bushing for Omega/Catera.

Rear Suspension

Meyle Bushings (Opel Omega)
Rear Outer Bushing 45mm: part # 614 042 0003
Rear Outer Bushing 43mm: part # 614 042 0004
Rubber bushings for the Opel Omega/Catera. I have sent emails to Meyle and German Auto Salvage asking whether these bushings are Heavy Duty. No answer yet.

Whiteline Rear Suspension Bushing: part # KCA384 (polyurethane/eccentric) rear outer position only
Provides a camber adjustment range of +/-1.0 degree from base settings for lowered rear suspension (outer position only).

SuperPro Rear Suspension Bushing: part # SPF0877K (polyurethane/eccentric)
Provides a camber adjustment range of +/-1.0 degree from base settings for lowered rear suspension (outer position only).

Pedders Suspensions - GTO IRS Bushing (polyurethane)
GTO IRS Inner Lower Arm Urethane Bush #EP7023

Pedders Suspensions - Rear Camber Eccentric
GTO Rear Camber Kit #5403

SPRINGS (Front & Rear)

Intrax Lowering Springs: Part # INT-25-1-001
Lower the car 1.6 inch (40.6mm) front and 1.4 inch (35.5mm) rear.

VOGTLAND Lowering Springs: part # 955120
Lower the car 1.2 inch (30mm) F&R.

Eibach Lowering Springs: part # E-6532-140
Lower the car 1.2 inches (30mm) F&R.

BILSTEIN Coil Springs - 007967
Front Right Spring: part # FE1-D403
Front Left Spring: part # FE1-D402
Rear Springs: part # FE1-D020

BILSTEIN Coil Springs - 007969
Front Right Spring: part # FE1-D448
Front Left Spring: part # FE1-D404
Rear Springs: part # FE1-D020


Koni Sport Struts & Shocks:
-Sport Strut: part # 8610-1315Sport (insert in OE strut; externally adjustable for rebound)
-Sport Shock: part # 80-2591Sport (non-air, must disable self leveling; rebound adjustment made before installation)
Struts & Shocks: Sport ride.

BILSTEIN (Opel/Vauxhall)
-Strut - B4 Gas: part # VNE-4480 (OE Replacement)
-Shock Absorber - B4 Gas: part # BNE-2861 (OE Replacement)
-Strut - B6 SPORT: part # VE3-4425 (Firm)
-Shock Absorber - B6 SPORT: part # B46-2260 (Firm)
-Strut - B8 SPRINT: part # VE3-4426 (Firm/Lowered)
-Shock Absorber - B6 SPORT: part # B46-2258 (Firm/Lowered)
-Boot & Bumpstop: part # ASP-C245 (front)

-Strut: # 334903
-Strut Mount: part # SM5285
-Shock Mount: part # SM5287
-Strut Boot & Bumpstop: part # SB101
Strut only. OEM ride. No adjustments.

Sensatrac Strut: part # 71503 (Twin-tube low pressure gas unit similiar to OEM)
Max-Air Rear Shocks: part # MA825 (For use with self leveling)
Upper Mount: part # 903932
Front Boot & Bumpstop: part # 63619

ACDELCO Strut: part # 506592 {#09192250} Right / # 506591 {#09192249} Left
Factory Replacement w/o SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)

ACDELCO Strut: part # 506594 {#09192292} Right / # 506593 {#09192291} Left
Factory Replacement w/SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)

ACDELCO Part # 560227 {#72119084}
Factory Replacement - Catera

ACDELCO Part # 560228 {#72119087}
Factory Replacement - Catera Sport

Gabriel Ultra Strut: part # G56769
OE replacement

NOTE: The following rear shock absorbers are for the 2004 Pontiac GTO. Owners who have used them assure me they will fit. Try at your own risk. GTO front struts will not fit. Front & Rear springs will fit.

MONROE SENSATRAC Rear: part # 5786
2004 GTO - OE Replacements

ACDELCO Rear Shock: part # 560595 {#92157266}
Factory Replacements for 2004 Pontiac GTO

Pedders Suspensions - GTO Sport Ryder Springs (front & rear):
GTO SR Front Coil 0 Drop #2142
GTO SR Front Coil -20mm Drop #2151
GTO SR Front Coil -35mm Drop #2275
GTO SR Rear Coil -35mm Drop #2641
GTO SR Rear Coil -20mm Drop #2643
GTO SR Rear Coil 0 Drop #7643
Pedders GTO Sport Ryder Springs. All are 45% to 50% stiffer than stock.

Pedders Suspensions - GTO Rear Shocks:
GTO Touring CG Shock #8081 (street)
GTO GSR Rear Shock #9095 (street/track)
GTO GSR Big Bore Shock #9195 (track)
All Pedders shocks are firmer that stock to varying degrees.


03-19-09, 11:26 AM
Ok i got it done well the shaking i all gone but i ran into something else i took the strut off to make it easyer to change the bushing i got everything back togather and took it out for a test drive but now there is a popping sound around the right wheel only when you hit a bump i live on a gravel road so you can here it good i looked at everything it all looked good i can push down on the front fender and i can make it pop you think i could have done something to the strut.

03-25-09, 06:02 PM
Sounds lke the strut bearing is bad. There at the top and pretty easy to replace. Again you should have held off on an alignment. After the bushings and that bearing it would be wise to do another one. I would replace the struts if there anything but new also and both bearings.

Bearings are pretty pricy up there, I think they were around $100 each? I could be wrong and that was for the set but I'm sure you will figure that one out.

Maybe just removing it and replacing it something changed in there but it really could only be that or the sway bar link. Take a look at the sway bar link to see if it is still solid then move to the bearing.


Hope that helps man.

03-27-09, 03:16 PM
I agree as well. If it wasnt poping before nad its poping now, well it didnt wear out during the replacement process.
I would say something is not seated properly and its settling as a result.
Sway bar link could cause a poping sound, Strut bearing may as well but I have never heard one make that sound you described. Also check all the bolts on the control arm, make sure something is not loose there.

Also double check the strut to hub bolts and make sure those are tight as well.

Golden Elvis
04-28-16, 11:08 PM
Hello Elvin:

I have a 2001 Catera with very low miles, almost suspect. 20,000 but the carfax checked out. Any way I had a shop replace the control arms and I still get a thunk when I go over bumps also it rides pretty rough. They claim it is hard to find control arms for this car, is that your experience?

I also wonder if the control arm bushings would have been replaced with the control arms?

04-29-16, 09:42 AM
Elvin look what we found.

Rear front trailing arm Original vs PU
http://a65.tinypic.com/2lm17r8.jpg http://a68.tinypic.com/z0d4m.jpg
http://a65.tinypic.com/s5lbb9.jpg http://a63.tinypic.com/2j518nl.jpg

Also available the front PU bushes for the front trailing arm.
The two rear PU donuts rear axle bushes.
The four PU bushes for the rear trailing arms.
Font and rear anti roll bar PU bushes.
Exhaust mounts PU bushes.

04-29-16, 09:46 AM
Doubt you needed control arms at 20k miles unless they were bent. It's the bushings that wear but they are replaceable. Arms come with new rubber bushings. Symptoms of worn bushings are violent shaking under braking, tramlining, and/or tire cupping. Alignment is critical with the Catera for good tire wear.

Thumping over rough roads is usually due to the anti-sway bar drop links between the bar and strut. Replacing them fixes it and it's easy to do.

Most suspension parts are available from Rock Auto Parts.

When my front end needed bushings I rebuilt the whole shebang. Bushings, drop links, ball joints, tie rod ends, but not the control arms. Instead of OEM rubber bushings I used polyurethane bushings from Powerflex, except the rear/vertical bushings. No poly substitute for them. I bought Koni Sport strut inserts and rear shocks. Front and rear 2004-2006 GTO springs. They're firmer and an inch shorter. That was 6 years, 60k miles ago and she still feels tight. Handles great.

I also swapped my Catera front brake calipers for 2004 dual piston units. Stops shorter, without fade. Replaced discs with slotted ones but that's an option not a requirement.

Read more:


04-29-16, 02:06 PM
Hey Kodan:

Details, details, details!! Are they made for the Omega? Who makes them? Have you tried them? I knew about the rear donuts and rear bushings. The ones I'm most curious about are the front end rear/vertical bushings. Last I knew there was no sub for the OEM part.


04-29-16, 07:07 PM
Yes they are for the Omega.
Yes they are currently in my Omega and driving is very smooth.
They where made by a Polish guy who makes almost everything.

04-30-16, 12:56 AM
There's a group of OOF members that have been trying to design a rear /vertical bushing to replace the OEM part. The poly bush they came up with ended up being too stiff. Instead of flexing it would bend the end of the control arm causing it to crack and fail.


I notice the Polish bushing is shaped differently, maybe to flex easier. How much did it cost and how do I buy one?

04-30-16, 01:02 AM

Please send me those pictures in an email. For some reason they stopped opening in the forum.



04-30-16, 04:56 AM
Instead of flexing it would bend the end of the control arm causing it to crack and fail.

Yes I have seen that, we do not know how long these last and if they have a negative effect on the trailing arm in the long run.
For now we are happy, there are now about four Omega's who are driving with these front bushes and one with the big donuts.
In a few weeks / months we are gonna try the bushes for the rear trailing arms.

04-30-16, 07:27 AM
Does he sell it anywhere?