: control arm bushings



darksky47
03-07-09, 08:08 AM
2001 catera

Helo everyone how had is it to replace the lower control arm bushings on a
2001 catera i have looked at it and it don't look to hard is there and think i need to look out for when doing it i have order the parts man for something so small from a auto parts they cost alot but luckly for me i found them on ebay any help on this mater thanks

This is what i have had done so far.

I just replace the pads and rotors on both front and real with 4 new tires and had tie rods /idler arm replaced and had a 4 wheel alignment and 4 wheel balance it still shaking very bad. only when i break

frank moran
03-07-09, 09:32 PM
they are not too hard to replace, however you may have to get an alignment....if you mark the bolts to strut locations you may be able to get away without an alignment.. As a suggestion use a sawzall to cut the bushing shell, be careful of the control arm. Have someone press them in, dont hammer them in as the control arm can be bent rather easley. You can make up a jacking screw arrangment to pull them in but in the end a press is better.

elvin315
03-15-09, 02:31 AM
Updated 03-15- 2009

Here are the suspension components (stock calibrations and upgrades) which I have found for the Catera. Beware, some of this is educated guesswork. Since we now know that GTO front & rear springs and rear shock absorbers will fit the Catera I'm assuming that aftermarket GTO springs and shocks will fit also. There's no good reason they shouldn't but to be on the safe side I feel I must warn you. Same goes for the BMW front bushings and Commodore rear bushings. Other Catera/Omega B owners have installed the BMW bushings successfully and with good results. I haven't performed these upgrades yet but will when the money appears. I trust the info I've received from other owners but that's me. For the whole story follow this link to the original thread.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/137056-aftermarket-suspension-bushings.html

Catera/Omega Suspension Upgrades:

CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS

Front Suspension

Homemade Bearing Tool (Removal/Installation)
Simple homemade tool to pull the bushings out & in.
YouTube - Rubber bushing removal


Ingalls Engineering Camber Adjusting Bolt: part # IEC-I-81260
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=IEC%2DI%2D81260&FROM=MG
Eccentric bolts to increase camber range for lowered front suspension.

RockAuto (OEM Replacements):
SPICER Control Arm, Rear/Vertical Bushing: Part # 5651329
ACDELCO Control Arm, Rear/Vertical Bushing: Part # 45G9329 {#19187194}
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Meyle Bushings BMW E34/M5 HD Bushings: part # 31121136607MY
http://www.germanautosalvage.com/services4.html
Heavy Duty rubber front horizontal BMW/M5 bushing for Omega/Catera.

Meyle Bushings (Opel Omega)
Front Horizontal Bushing 58.5mm: part # 614 035 0016
Rear Vertical Bushing 48.5mm: part # 614 035 0010
http://www.meyle.com/Home/application.asp?lan=us&images=off&ma=84&de=30713069069&mo=14201777488&ba=14201772640&
Rubber bushings for the Opel Omega/Catera. I have sent emails to Meyle and German Auto Salvage asking whether these bushings are Heavy Duty. No answer yet.

Meyle Control Arms w/bushings & ball joints: part # 616 050 0017(Left) - 616 050 0018(Right)
New wishbones loaded with Meyle rubber bushings & balljoint.
http://www.meyle.com/Home/application.asp?lan=us&images=on&ma=84&de=6220321167&mo=14201777488&ba=14201772640&

NOTE: Meyle makes a large range of replacement parts for the Opel Omega that we can use in our Cateras.
Use their search engine and leave the the last box [select...(not required)].

Korman Autoworks:
BMW M5 (E34) Heavy-Duty Thrust Rod Bushings: part # 3112567
http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/m5m6susp.htm
Heavy Duty BMW/M5 bushing for Catera front/horizontal control arm bushing.

MOOG:
1993 BMW/M5 Thrust Arm Bushing: part # K90137
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
BMW OE bushing for Catera/Omega front/horizontal bushing.

Bavarian AutoSport:
BMW/M5 Upper Control Arm Bushing: part # : 31 12 2 226 528
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
OE rubber M5 bushing for Catera/Omega front/horizontal bushing.

Bavarian AutoSport: BMW/M5 Upper Control Arm Bushing: part # N81368BAV (polyurethane)
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
"Our exclusive street performance bushings and mounts are made with a more forgiving urethane formula! During spirited driving, polyurethane bushings and mounts provide more responsive handling and maintain better control over suspension geometry than stock bushings. Along with this improvement in handling, though, comes a stiffer ride -- a welcome side-effect on a smooth race track, but much more noticeable on the streets. Our street performance urethane is formulated with a touch of polyester. This new compound is more forgiving than 100% urethane, so it’s better for street BMWs."

Powerflex BMW E34/M5: part # PFF5-601 (polyurethane)
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products.asp?cat=0003&catalog=0903&submit1.x=23&submit1.y=9&submit1=GO
Polyurethane front horizontal BMW/M5 bushing for Omega/Catera.

Rear Suspension

Meyle Bushings (Opel Omega)
Rear Outer Bushing 45mm: part # 614 042 0003
Rear Outer Bushing 43mm: part # 614 042 0004
http://www.meyle.com/Home/application.asp?lan=us&images=off&ma=84&de=30713069069&mo=14201777488&ba=14201772640&
Rubber bushings for the Opel Omega/Catera. I have sent emails to Meyle and German Auto Salvage asking whether these bushings are Heavy Duty. No answer yet.

Whiteline Rear Suspension Bushing: part # KCA384 (polyurethane/eccentric) rear outer position only
http://www.globalperformanceparts.com/fitting_instructions/KCA384.pdf
Provides a camber adjustment range of +/-1.0 degree from base settings for lowered rear suspension (outer position only).

SuperPro Rear Suspension Bushing: part # SPF0877K (polyurethane/eccentric)
http://www.superpro.com.au/download/4381.link
Provides a camber adjustment range of +/-1.0 degree from base settings for lowered rear suspension (outer position only).

Pedders Suspensions - GTO IRS Bushing (polyurethane)
GTO IRS Inner Lower Arm Urethane Bush #EP7023
http://www.peddersusa.com/Solution_GTO.htm

Pedders Suspensions - Rear Camber Eccentric
GTO Rear Camber Kit #5403
http://www.peddersusa.com/Solution_GTO.htm

SPRINGS (Front & Rear)

Intrax Lowering Springs: Part # INT-25-1-001
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=INT%2D25%2D1%2D001&FROM=MG
Lower the car 1.6 inch (40.6mm) front and 1.4 inch (35.5mm) rear.

VOGTLAND Lowering Springs: part # 955120
http://vogtlandsuspension.com/p71/Cadillac-Catera-|-97---01-Lowering-Springs/product_info.html
Lower the car 1.2 inch (30mm) F&R.

Eibach Lowering Springs: part # E-6532-140
http://www.eibach-uk.com/
Lower the car 1.2 inches (30mm) F&R.

BILSTEIN Coil Springs - 007967
Front Right Spring: part # FE1-D403
Front Left Spring: part # FE1-D402
Rear Springs: part # FE1-D020
http://www.carparts-cat.com/webkat.asp?SID=0007478194325632018004

BILSTEIN Coil Springs - 007969
Front Right Spring: part # FE1-D448
Front Left Spring: part # FE1-D404
Rear Springs: part # FE1-D020
http://www.carparts-cat.com/webkat.asp?SID=0007478194325632018004

STRUTS & SHOCK ABSORBERS (incl: MOUNTS, BOOTS, and BUMP STOPS)

Koni Sport Struts & Shocks:
-Sport Strut: part # 8610-1315Sport (insert in OE strut; externally adjustable for rebound)
-Sport Shock: part # 80-2591Sport (non-air, must disable self leveling; rebound adjustment made before installation)
http://store.summitracing.com
Struts & Shocks: Sport ride.

BILSTEIN (Opel/Vauxhall)
-Strut - B4 Gas: part # VNE-4480 (OE Replacement)
-Shock Absorber - B4 Gas: part # BNE-2861 (OE Replacement)
-Strut - B6 SPORT: part # VE3-4425 (Firm)
-Shock Absorber - B6 SPORT: part # B46-2260 (Firm)
-Strut - B8 SPRINT: part # VE3-4426 (Firm/Lowered)
-Shock Absorber - B6 SPORT: part # B46-2258 (Firm/Lowered)
-Boot & Bumpstop: part # ASP-C245 (front)
http://www.carparts-cat.com/webkat.asp?SID=0007478194325913018004

KYB GR2:
-Strut: # 334903
-Strut Mount: part # SM5285
-Shock Mount: part # SM5287
-Strut Boot & Bumpstop: part # SB101
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=3755&selected_year=2001
Strut only. OEM ride. No adjustments.

Monroe:
Sensatrac Strut: part # 71503 (Twin-tube low pressure gas unit similiar to OEM)
Max-Air Rear Shocks: part # MA825 (For use with self leveling)
Upper Mount: part # 903932
Front Boot & Bumpstop: part # 63619
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=3755&selected_year=2001

ACDELCO Strut: part # 506592 {#09192250} Right / # 506591 {#09192249} Left
http://www.rockauto.com/
Factory Replacement w/o SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)

ACDELCO Strut: part # 506594 {#09192292} Right / # 506593 {#09192291} Left
http://www.rockauto.com/
Factory Replacement w/SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)

ACDELCO Part # 560227 {#72119084}
ABSORBER,RR SHK w/o SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)
http://www.rockauto.com
Factory Replacement - Catera

ACDELCO Part # 560228 {#72119087}
ABSORBER,RR SHK w/SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)
http://www.rockauto.com
Factory Replacement - Catera Sport

Gabriel Ultra Strut: part # G56769
http://www.gabriel.com
OE replacement

NOTE: The following rear shock absorbers are for the 2004 Pontiac GTO. Owners who have used them assure me they will fit. Try at your own risk. GTO front struts will not fit. Front & Rear springs will fit.

MONROE SENSATRAC Rear: part # 5786
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
2004 GTO - OE Replacements

ACDELCO Rear Shock: part # 560595 {#92157266}
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Factory Replacements for 2004 Pontiac GTO

Pedders Suspensions - GTO Sport Ryder Springs (front & rear):
GTO SR Front Coil 0 Drop #2142
GTO SR Front Coil -20mm Drop #2151
GTO SR Front Coil -35mm Drop #2275
GTO SR Rear Coil -35mm Drop #2641
GTO SR Rear Coil -20mm Drop #2643
GTO SR Rear Coil 0 Drop #7643
Pedders GTO Sport Ryder Springs. All are 45% to 50% stiffer than stock.
http://www.peddersusa.com/Solution_GTO.htm

Pedders Suspensions - GTO Rear Shocks:
GTO Touring CG Shock #8081 (street)
GTO GSR Rear Shock #9095 (street/track)
GTO GSR Big Bore Shock #9195 (track)
All Pedders shocks are firmer that stock to varying degrees.
[url]http://www.peddersusa.com/Solution_GTO.htm

.

darksky47
03-19-09, 11:26 AM
Ok i got it done well the shaking i all gone but i ran into something else i took the strut off to make it easyer to change the bushing i got everything back togather and took it out for a test drive but now there is a popping sound around the right wheel only when you hit a bump i live on a gravel road so you can here it good i looked at everything it all looked good i can push down on the front fender and i can make it pop you think i could have done something to the strut.

gunther1000
03-25-09, 06:02 PM
Sounds lke the strut bearing is bad. There at the top and pretty easy to replace. Again you should have held off on an alignment. After the bushings and that bearing it would be wise to do another one. I would replace the struts if there anything but new also and both bearings.

Bearings are pretty pricy up there, I think they were around $100 each? I could be wrong and that was for the set but I'm sure you will figure that one out.

Maybe just removing it and replacing it something changed in there but it really could only be that or the sway bar link. Take a look at the sway bar link to see if it is still solid then move to the bearing.

$.02

Hope that helps man.

CateraMV6
03-27-09, 03:16 PM
I agree as well. If it wasnt poping before nad its poping now, well it didnt wear out during the replacement process.
I would say something is not seated properly and its settling as a result.
Sway bar link could cause a poping sound, Strut bearing may as well but I have never heard one make that sound you described. Also check all the bolts on the control arm, make sure something is not loose there.

Also double check the strut to hub bolts and make sure those are tight as well.

Golden Elvis
04-28-16, 11:08 PM
Hello Elvin:

I have a 2001 Catera with very low miles, almost suspect. 20,000 but the carfax checked out. Any way I had a shop replace the control arms and I still get a thunk when I go over bumps also it rides pretty rough. They claim it is hard to find control arms for this car, is that your experience?

I also wonder if the control arm bushings would have been replaced with the control arms?

Kodan
04-29-16, 09:42 AM
Elvin look what we found.

Rear front trailing arm Original vs PU
http://a65.tinypic.com/2lm17r8.jpg http://a68.tinypic.com/z0d4m.jpg
http://a65.tinypic.com/s5lbb9.jpg http://a63.tinypic.com/2j518nl.jpg

Also available the front PU bushes for the front trailing arm.
The two rear PU donuts rear axle bushes.
The four PU bushes for the rear trailing arms.
Font and rear anti roll bar PU bushes.
Exhaust mounts PU bushes.

elvin315
04-29-16, 09:46 AM
Doubt you needed control arms at 20k miles unless they were bent. It's the bushings that wear but they are replaceable. Arms come with new rubber bushings. Symptoms of worn bushings are violent shaking under braking, tramlining, and/or tire cupping. Alignment is critical with the Catera for good tire wear.

Thumping over rough roads is usually due to the anti-sway bar drop links between the bar and strut. Replacing them fixes it and it's easy to do.

Most suspension parts are available from Rock Auto Parts.

When my front end needed bushings I rebuilt the whole shebang. Bushings, drop links, ball joints, tie rod ends, but not the control arms. Instead of OEM rubber bushings I used polyurethane bushings from Powerflex, except the rear/vertical bushings. No poly substitute for them. I bought Koni Sport strut inserts and rear shocks. Front and rear 2004-2006 GTO springs. They're firmer and an inch shorter. That was 6 years, 60k miles ago and she still feels tight. Handles great.

I also swapped my Catera front brake calipers for 2004 dual piston units. Stops shorter, without fade. Replaced discs with slotted ones but that's an option not a requirement.

Read more:

http://cateraowners.forumotion.com/t108-catera-suspension-upgrades-overview
http://cateraowners.forumotion.com/t275-catera-braking-upgrades

elvin315
04-29-16, 02:06 PM
Hey Kodan:

Details, details, details!! Are they made for the Omega? Who makes them? Have you tried them? I knew about the rear donuts and rear bushings. The ones I'm most curious about are the front end rear/vertical bushings. Last I knew there was no sub for the OEM part.

Thanks

Kodan
04-29-16, 07:07 PM
Yes they are for the Omega.
Yes they are currently in my Omega and driving is very smooth.
They where made by a Polish guy who makes almost everything.

elvin315
04-30-16, 12:56 AM
There's a group of OOF members that have been trying to design a rear /vertical bushing to replace the OEM part. The poly bush they came up with ended up being too stiff. Instead of flexing it would bend the end of the control arm causing it to crack and fail.

385378

I notice the Polish bushing is shaped differently, maybe to flex easier. How much did it cost and how do I buy one?

elvin315
04-30-16, 01:02 AM
Kodan:

Please send me those pictures in an email. For some reason they stopped opening in the forum.

Elvin315@gmail.com

Thanks.

Kodan
04-30-16, 04:56 AM
Instead of flexing it would bend the end of the control arm causing it to crack and fail.

Yes I have seen that, we do not know how long these last and if they have a negative effect on the trailing arm in the long run.
For now we are happy, there are now about four Omega's who are driving with these front bushes and one with the big donuts.
In a few weeks / months we are gonna try the bushes for the rear trailing arms.

globuslive
04-30-16, 07:27 AM
Does he sell it anywhere?

elvin315
04-30-16, 11:51 AM
Wow, that's a nasty looking ball joint.

elvin315
04-30-16, 04:11 PM
Kodan :

Thanks for the pics.

Now tell us how we can buy a pair.
We can get the poly donuts and rear suspension bushings over here from Pedders, not for the Catera but for the GTO/Monaro. It's the front rear/vertical bushing that's unobtainium. Ābsolutly no one made them until now, so help a guy out.

globuslive
04-30-16, 06:49 PM
Is it hard to replace? Probably rear control arm needs to be removed? How donuts would be called correctly to look it up?

Yeah that ball joint freaked me out, could not believe it.

elvin315
04-30-16, 08:12 PM
Is it hard to replace? Probably rear control arm needs to be removed? How donuts would be called correctly to look it up?

Yeah that ball joint freaked me out, could not believe it.

If "it" is the lower control arm's rear/vertical bushing it might, but not always, need to be pressed or knocked out.

If "it" is the rear semi-trailing arm's bushings they can be replaced without dismantling everything back there but it's nowhere near easy.

385706

Each arm has 2 bushings at the end of the "V", the inner and outer. It's easier if you have access to a lift.

The donuts are the rear suspension subframe mounting bushings. Pedders USA has them in poly for the GTO and they fit the Catera. It's labeled as X member bushing in the 1st diagram.

Read more : http://cateraowners.forumotion.com/t108-catera-suspension-upgrades-overview

globuslive
04-30-16, 08:23 PM
Thank you Elvin. Is it whiteline makes it too? I found some assimetric rear poly bushings, I guess it's the same rear vertical bushings. I just keep thinking to lower even more with eibach gto springs, and my back camber is really off, plus feels like now I want to replace all bushings available in the car ;-)

elvin315
04-30-16, 08:38 PM
Thank you Elvin. Is it whiteline makes it too? I found some assimetric rear poly bushings, I guess it's the same rear vertical bushings. I just keep thinking to lower even more with eibach gto springs, and my back camber is really off

Pedders, Whiteline, and SuperPro make the donuts in poly.

WARNING: GTO springs are 25.4mm shorter than Catera's. That includes lowering springs. If the spring lowers 40mm it will lower Catera 65.4mm.

Give us the link to the Whiteline rear/vertical bushings. I'd rather buy from an established manufacturer than a guy in his garage, but I am tempted.

elvin315
04-30-16, 11:40 PM
Whiteline diagrams:

Semi-trailing arm bushings -
385722

Subframe mounting bushings -
385730

globuslive
05-01-16, 02:14 PM
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=361039546197&alt=web

The only thing, I asked guy about it, he said it's delayed order of 4-8 weeks, but it also was awhile ago, so he might have it now in stock.

So Elvin front stock springs will drop catera for about 25 mm? I definitely don't want to lower it for 65 lol, will scrub every bump. But some springs have drop 1.2 /0.8 inch, so front gonna be around 50 mm .... Mmmm still too low for daily driver

elvin315
05-01-16, 07:54 PM
Your link takes me to the eBay app but not the bushings. I'm not concerned about the wait. My rear/vertical bushings don't need replacement now. I just want them on hand. You can never know when custom parts like this will disappear.

Yes, the stock 2004-2006 GTO springs, front and rear, will lower the Catera 25.4mm/1 inch. If you use GTO lowering springs you have to add that 25.4mm to the amount those springs will lower the car. It will destroy your tires, ball joints, and rear CV joints. The 25.4mm is just right. Fills the wheel wells, and lowers the car just enough without causing damage.

globuslive
05-01-16, 10:07 PM
Try this item number 361039546197 on eBay search line

elvin315
05-02-16, 05:58 AM
Thanks but that wasn't what I was looking for. If I seem to nag it's your fault for waving those bushing pictures in my face. I thought of making my own from solid poly rod, drilling the center hole for the crush tube, drilling 6 to 8 smaller holes around it to allow flexing but was advised against it. The small holes would probably tear. Your bushings solve the problem by having a thinner area around the center that will flex without the holes that could tear.

elvin315
05-02-16, 07:56 AM
These are a few of the experimental rear/vert bushings the guys at OOF have created. So far, no workable bushing.

This one is just solid Polyurathane. I would've drilled my holes between the center hole and outer shell.
386042

This one uses the steel insert of the OEM bushing sandwiched between 2 poly sockets.
386050

You can see why yours is so attractive. Simple and elegant. I'm hoping it's the answer.

globuslive
05-02-16, 12:21 PM
So you ment vertical bushing for front control arm? Yeah, its definitely not the one )) but why you guys need poly for that? It's looks bad with that cracked arm, considering nice highways in Europe, won't last at all over here.
If you want to drill holes, I would drill only two sides, left and right, which driver and pass side, it would help flex up and down, but would be stiff when car hits bumps. Just my 0.2 cents. Looks like because of lack of flexibility, instead of bushing flexing, they got arm flex and eventually broke. Plus one side on the arm has a crack, for pressing purposes I guess. So it's weak point, but welded around with arm housing. And from that pic, looks like it's break point as well.

Those red ones look similar to original design, with tinier inner walls helping to flex

----------

You know guys what we really want to do is idler arm poly insert. I just installed second brand new idler and its loose as you know what... And it's mevotech supreme, supposed to be premium quality. When I force moving right wheel it gives huge play, arm goes up like one inch. Is there any way to improve it somehow?

elvin315
05-02-16, 03:35 PM
So you ment vertical bushing for front control arm? Yeah, its definitely not the one )) but why you guys need poly for that? It's looks bad with that cracked arm, considering nice highways in Europe, won't last at all over here.
If you want to drill holes, I would drill only two sides, left and right, which driver and pass side, it would help flex up and down, but would be stiff when car hits bumps. Just my 0.2 cents. Looks like because of lack of flexibility, instead of bushing flexing, they got arm flex and eventually broke. Plus one side on the arm has a crack, for pressing purposes I guess. So it's weak point, but welded around with arm housing. And from that pic, looks like it's break point as well.

Those red ones look similar to original design, with tinier inner walls helping to flex

The reason for the failure of the OOF bushing with the solid poly is partly due to the hardness of that material, but there's a weakness inherit to the control arm that contributes to the failure. The steel sleeve in which the bushing fits is only welded to the arm along 2 sides which allows the stiff poly to force the control arm to bend at that spot with every bump. That hapens long enough and a fracture is inevitable. Welding the sleeve all around its circumference would stop it from bending there but it would only mean the bending would shift to another spot along the control arm. That's the reason for the steel pivot/ball insert of the second bushing. It allows necessary movement on all planes, with little to no bending force applied to the control arm, but being that it's sandwiched between 2 separate poly sockets, instead of encased in solid poly, the sockets can shift around and allow the insert too much movement.

Why is this movement desirable? The reason the originals have that steel pivot/ball is to allow movement in all planes. Not only pivoting for bumps, but under braking too. When braking the control arms are pulled back, forced to pivot at the front horizontal bushing, increasing toe-out for added braking stability. If the rear/vertical bushing doesn't allow this movement the toe wouldn't change. That movement also comes into play when the left and right tires brake while they ride on surfaces with varying traction, like one wheel on clean pavement and the other on sandy pavement, or one on dry and he other in a puddle. Under those conditions one control arm would pivot back more than the other, pulling the car straight. For that reason holes should be drilled all around to weaken the poly just enough to allow this flexibility but how many holes and what size should they be? Too many variables for an amatuer, plus the chance it could tear scares me. That's why the solid, though thinner polyurethane around the center of the Polish bushing seems safer to me.

Why make the rear/vertical bushing from polyurethane at all? For the same reason as with all the other bushings, increased stiffness to improve turn-in handling, and increased life compared to the rubber bushings. Why go to the trouble of mimicing the original bushing's universal pivoting? Because we're not engineers, at least I'm not, and those at Opel went to the trouble of designing it that way. It stands to reason that without this ability the car's handling and braking might suffer rather than improve. Their major weakness is that they're made from rubber which turns brittle and tears over time. Inside is a silicon lubricant that keeps everything slippery until the rubber cracks and splits, leaking its lube. I'm telling you, the red Polish bushings seem to have all the benefits of the originals without the weakness.

globuslive
05-02-16, 11:17 PM
Nice reading. But even so, that vertical original bushings are pretty stiff, even old ones feel stiff, since they made solid, without weak hollow points like horizontal original rubbers, the only reason I have replaced them since inner steel rod separates from rubber, other than that it looks like new. I think those broken Carms of OOF happened from lack of flexibility going up and down, rather than braking, because the breaking point looks like from twisting the arm. If those red ones work and reliable, it would give some improvement, but honestly I think it would be barely noticeable, compared to horizontal bushings benefits, because feels like major play comes from them.
But really, this idler arm is the point where you can get huge improvement... That part really requires some attention

Kodan
05-03-16, 07:11 AM
This is how it looks after a few years
http://i65.tinypic.com/xgb5ht.jpg

For my previous Omega Estate I bought some new oem trailing arms and after two years the original bushings where finished and need to be replaced.
We are so done changing every two years these oem crap bushes. We hope that with these PU pushes we can make that a few more years.
For now there are 3 Omega's with these bushes and we can not say how long they last, what we can say is that driving is very smooth and stiff, steering is very direct.
I know that Pedders, Whiteline, Powerflex and SuperPro etc makes poly bushes but they are probably more expensive then these ones, probably shipping is more expensive than the bushes itself.

elvin315
05-03-16, 08:29 AM
Kodan:

No one, but no one other than GM and this guy in Poland makes the rear/vertical bushing for the Omega/Catera. No one. Not Pedders, Whiteline, Powerflex, or SuperPro. We need the email or URL, or phone number to this guy in Poland. You're our only hope Obi Wan Kenobi. Please provide this info.

globuslive
05-03-16, 02:07 PM
Kodan what part of Europe are you from? Looks nasty for couple years old of use, I just changed mines and it's 15 years old and looks way better, you probably got some bad weather over there or something else. In Russia or Western Europe it would look like yours too in one year lol. They change bushings annually , seriously, but there are no pavement whatsoever, like after ww2

elvin315
05-04-16, 05:25 AM
Kodan is from The Netherlands according to the location in his header. By all accounts Holland has very smooth roads due to the high percentage of bicyclists. It's a very big deal to them. The control arm's rust and corrosion is probably due to the high humidity and airborne salt. A lot of the country is below sea level after all.

An article on Dutch roads and bike paths:
https://bicycledutch.wordpress.com/2014/05/15/denbosch-before-and-after/

globuslive
05-08-16, 02:50 PM
Elvin do you know what makes Gto struts be different from Catera? I'm asking because I have Gto on my trailer right now, and it seems to be identical. Very similar appearance. I ordered front struts assembly, and if possible , I would fit it in.

elvin315
05-10-16, 04:54 PM
I tried finding the original source where I got that nugget of info but couldn't. Since you have the GTO struts on hand you could do a side by side comparison and answer this question once and for all. As I remeber, the GTO struts won't fit because they join the steering knuckles and antisway bar's drop links differently than the struts on the Catera. The reason, is that the GTO is an Australian Holden Commodore and Monaro, and redesigned for that market. Though both were based on the Opel Omega B, the platform was stretched and widened to create the Commodore.

The front suspension was redesigned to make room for a wider engine compartment which had to accomodate the V8. If you compare their parts diagrams, everything from lower control arms, to hubs/steering-knuckles, to struts are different. Another thing is that their GM strut part numbers are different. When I did my original research I found that the only common parts the Holden and the Opel shared were the top strut mount/bearings. The GTO's springs, like the brake calipers, aren't an exact match to the Catera's, but they do fit.

The rear suspension was also widened but basically carried over. Its rear subframe, antisway bar, and half shaft axles were widened. Its differential was bespoke, built stronger to handle the V8 HP. Other than that the rest of the rear suspension parts are the same.

2004 GTO Front Suspension
388522

2001 Catera Front Suspension
http://s3.amazonaws.com/rparts-illustrations/strapr1/0a8dea7ae2ac527edd18237be70dbda0/351adc1df08d5f5020a046afd62e7dff.png

The diagrams are from GM Parts Direct.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/

globuslive
05-11-16, 12:53 AM
I gonna pick them up tomorrow in Cleveland, and I looked at Gto I carried, exact same two bolts hook it to steering knuckle. The upper part of sway bar link is different and the way it hooks up to strut, but bar side looks the same, the only concern here is dimensions . I'll definitely will compare it side by side, when I remove Catera strut. Would be awesome if we can use them .

globuslive
05-11-16, 12:58 AM
Gto struts

388602

globuslive
05-12-16, 12:51 AM
Ok, so after first quick comparison Gto vs catera struts, there are couple differences I've noticed: knuckle mounting holes are bigger, but the same distance between them, which is good thing ;-), longer sway bar link, not much but it is, might work or might need to be shortened, the leght from bottom of the strut and spring seat is a bit shorter than catera, but looks like standard tire size would work with no issues.
All rest will clear out when I compare it side by side and attempt to install it. I really feel it might be fitted with few modifications, if so, we might have complete Gto suspension in our cars ))

elvin315
05-12-16, 03:31 AM
Go for it.