: I think i'm ready



reddawg
03-06-09, 10:33 PM
OK, I'm ready to take on the head gaskets and a few other engine issues on my 98 Deville. Let me give you the low down and some past history. I started a new job, and one of the guys there had this Cadillac that kept overheating, and the oil pressure light would come on occasionally. He had everything coolant replaced like water pump, heater core, coolant bypass gaskets, T-stats, radiator, and hoses. Guess what, it still overheated. Long story short I told him that Cadillac had head gasket issues, he didn't want to put any more money in it so he sold me the car for $1000. I put some of that block sealer stuff in it and have been driving it for the past 10 months with no real problems. Now it is starting to miss at start up and use coolant again.

Problem number two. He was using 5w-30 motor oil in it, and after you drove the car for 30 minutes or so when you came up to a stop the oil light would come on. The light would go out just above idle at about 800 RPMs I think that the oil was too thin and wore the bearings. I had to go to a 20w-50 oil to keep the light off at a stop.

Problem number three. It has a good oil leak going on, either from the rear main seal and/or the oil pan gasket. So here's my situation, do I just junk the car or try to rebuild the N* engine. I have the tools, room, and knowledge, I just haven't ever messed with much on these engines. How about that rear main seal, anybody ever done one without the SST? Of coarse I only want to do this job once, so if anything sounds sketchy please chime in. I thought about a used motor but you never know exactly what your getting. I would greatly appreciate any advice, wisdom, or shortcuts.

Thanks,
Tony

Ranger
03-07-09, 09:59 AM
I guess it all depends on the condition of the rest of the car. Having put snake oil block sealer in it means you now have to clean out the radiator and heater core (if you can). 5W30 is too think for a flat tappet engine. I'd be more worried about cam & lifter wear than bearings. If you find wear, you might be better off getting a used engine and Timeserting or studding it before installing it.

Submariner409
03-07-09, 09:24 PM
As Ranger opined, it all depends on your relationship with the car and its condition other than the engine.

For around $3000 - $5000 after total overhaul (the lower end is bulletproof, don't bother) you can have a new car. The pre-2000 engines with flat tappet hydraulic followere are more prone to cam/follower wear than the later units, so a new set of cams may be in order, and they aren't cheap (no, there are no street cam upgrades presently on the market). If you do the work yourself, drop the engine out the bottom and use Jake's stud kit. (97EldoCoupe, NX8)

The naysayers will counter with "But the car is only worth $1,750 ! Why spend the money ???" For the same reason you spend $450 for a '65 Chevelle Malibu SS and drop $17,000 into it to make a Drive-In retro cruiser. The car sold for $2566, new, loaded (I have the invoice......)

[NortHStaR]
03-08-09, 04:06 AM
The oil leak is most likely your half case.....

Submariner409
03-08-09, 08:37 AM
remember that there are no oversized bearings for the Northstar and you cannot grind the crankshaft. There are no service oversized pistons and you cannot bore the cylinders. The case half is in fact the main bearing caps and girdle, so you might want to roll in a set of mains if you have to separate the case.

reddawg
03-08-09, 10:42 AM
I was planning on dropping the cradle and using the stud kit. The rest of the car is in fine condition. Before I drop the engine, would I be able to take off the front valve cover and notice any wear on the cams or tappets. That way I could go ahead get another motor ready ahead of time before I drop this one, to save me a little down time. Something else I just thought of, if I do get another motor, is there any advantage to get the vin 9, 300hp.

Ranger
03-08-09, 01:06 PM
I was planning on dropping the cradle and using the stud kit. The rest of the car is in fine condition. Before I drop the engine, would I be able to take off the front valve cover and notice any wear on the cams or tappets. That way I could go ahead get another motor ready ahead of time before I drop this one, to save me a little down time. Something else I just thought of, if I do get another motor, is there any advantage to get the vin 9, 300hp.
NO! Different intake cam, trans and PCM. You'll create even more problems.

reddawg
03-09-09, 11:56 AM
Yea, I found that out after I looked at some other posts. How ever I did find a used engine out of a 2004 Cadillac, I read on here some where that there was an engine design change after 2000. Will this 2004 engine still work for me? The guy says that the owner hit something on the interstate and put a hole in the oil pan. He states the the owners drove it for about 8 miles like that and they just went ahead and put another engine in the car. This one still turns over by hand and he has a new oem oil pan for it. I think I can get it for 500.00. 97,000 miles on it. If I go this route should I go ahead and do the headbolt studs before I put it in. Or do these engines not have that problem.

Thanks.

Ranger
03-09-09, 12:54 PM
Depends on what year your car is (update your profile). If it is a pre 2000 I don't think it will work, but I'd be very leary of an engine that was drive 8 miles with a hole in the oil pan.

reddawg
03-09-09, 06:36 PM
It is a 1998 Deville. I haven't seen the engine yet. I was hopeing that it might be a small hole up high, where the pick-up would have still been able to deliver oil pressure. However if the engine won't fit anyway I think this car is destened for scrap.

Ranger
03-09-09, 08:51 PM
If "the owner hit something on the interstate and put a hole in the oil pan", it's more likely on the bottom.