: A few parts questions...



stuckey
03-02-09, 05:01 PM
I have searched the forums and found many different threads and such but I wanted to hear what your personal experiences have been with the different brands and such.

1. Which is better for a happy medium of performance and not shredding pads in a month. Stock rotors, slotted rotors, cross drilled, or slotted and crossdrilled. (Using Hawks HPS pads)

2. I'm looking into lowering my car. Is the Eibach Pro Kit a good way to go? Its springs front and rear Part Number: 3825.140 for around $280 shipped. Or should I buy GC? I have never lowered a car...

Thanks for all the help I know I'll get on these.

AlmostAV
03-02-09, 05:22 PM
GC is better if you would like to be able to adjust the height. Eibachs are a little cheaper, and dont provide as much of a drop. But for me the eibachs have been perfect. You will need to make or buy some spacers to fool the nivomat shocks.

onebadcad
03-02-09, 05:38 PM
Eibachs for $262.97, free shipping:

http://www.ajusa.com/details/index/252/EIB/1255/0/0/0/EIB%203825.140/0/0/CTS%20V;%20V8;%205.7L;%20GAS

Only one PN listed, but describes four springs.

stuckey
03-02-09, 06:00 PM
Eibachs for $262.97, free shipping:

http://www.ajusa.com/details/index/252/EIB/1255/0/0/0/EIB%203825.140/0/0/CTS%20V;%20V8;%205.7L;%20GAS

Only one PN listed, but describes four springs.


GC is better if you would like to be able to adjust the height. Eibachs are a little cheaper, and dont provide as much of a drop. But for me the eibachs have been perfect. You will need to make or buy some spacers to fool the nivomat shocks.

Thanks! :thumbsup: Now I just need some input on rotors. I just don't want so much performance that they kill my pads but at the same time I want a little added stopping power and cooling. I may be asking too much...

Where should I look for spacers?

darkman
03-02-09, 06:36 PM
Thanks! :thumbsup: Now I just need some input on rotors. I just don't want so much performance that they kill my pads but at the same time I want a little added stopping power and cooling. I may be asking too much...

Where should I look for spacers?

Stock rotors for maximum stopping power and durabilty. Slots and holes reduce the heat absorbing capacity and braking surface area of the rotors. The need for holes or slots died with modern brake pads that do not generate gas pockets eliminated by slots and holes. Some manufacturers will not even warranty their own drilled rotors. I have heard some say the there may be some advantage of slots in the wet.

CtsVrod
03-02-09, 07:07 PM
I have the GC - Had some H&R's but prefer the adjustability

I went to Porterfield brakes, and had them get me Centric Rotors (Made in the USA :usflag:) Slotted - Didn't want to deal with Drilled Holes cracking.

Went with Hawk HP+ Pads in Front, and HPS in the Rear

So far the Brakes are MUCH improved, the bite is much better, there is a little squeal in the front, but overall im VERY happy, well worth it!

GC is just awesome, of course I went from FE4's w. stock springs, to FG2's with GC but I can pull around 1.15 just playing in the canyons...

stuckey
03-03-09, 08:47 AM
bump for more brake opinions

PISNUOFF
03-03-09, 11:49 AM
Stock rotors for maximum stopping power and durabilty. Slots and holes reduce the heat absorbing capacity and braking surface area of the rotors. The need for holes or slots died with modern brake pads that do not generate gas pockets eliminated by slots and holes. Some manufacturers will not even warranty their own drilled rotors. I have heard some say the there may be some advantage of slots in the wet.

I've used all of the above rotors and found that the drilled/slotted rotors stop the best. THERE IS FADE WITH STOCK ROTORS. However, one super hard stop with drilled front rotors when it's cold outside will crack them and over time they also develop smaller cracks propagating from the holes. I just use stock rotors and pads on the street, mostly because I haven't needed to replace the originals yet. On the track, I run Rotora slotted rotors up front and R1Concepts drilled/slotted rotors in the rear with Carbotech pads on all four corners. The Rotora slotted fronts are heavier than stock and fairly expensive, something like $300 each from D3.

stuckey
03-03-09, 01:02 PM
I've used all of the above rotors and found that the drilled/slotted rotors stop the best. THERE IS FADE WITH STOCK ROTORS. However, one super hard stop with drilled front rotors when it's cold outside will crack them and over time they also develop smaller cracks propagating from the holes. I just use stock rotors and pads on the street, mostly because I haven't needed to replace the originals yet. On the track, I run Rotora slotted rotors up front and R1Concepts drilled/slotted rotors in the rear with Carbotech pads on all four corners. The Rotora slotted fronts are heavier than stock and fairly expensive, something like $300 each from D3.

That's what I was looking for. Thanks I'll be sticking with the stockers then.

lollygagger8
03-03-09, 01:07 PM
I went from stock rotors with Hawk HP+ Pads to the GM drilled rotors from Luke @ Lindsey, and they seemed to stop better than stock rotors. I am very pleased with them, and they haven't cracked at all in the 5 months I've been running them. I don't track the car (yet)

darkman
03-03-09, 07:48 PM
Here is an article that lays out some of the pros and cons of the rotor choices.

http://generic-racing.com/tech_brakes.html

trukk
03-03-09, 08:00 PM
Here's my take:

1) I've had both the stock and gm drilled rotors. Quite honestly I think the drilled ones are more of a cosmetic mod. Mine eventaully cracked after a bunch of track days. I went back to the standard OEM's on the front. They really kick ass for an OEM bit.

2) HPS pads are NOT a performance upgrade. They are a convienence upgrade. They dust a LOT less than the OEM stockers (Ferodo H1000s) HP+ are a performance upgrade over the OEm stockers. They dust about the same, but have better performance. This is one of the cheapest and best 'performance' upgrades you can do on your car. The frist time you really stomp on them you'll see. I am about to try out CarboTech XP8's as my street pads. They are more agressive than the Hawk XP+'s. We'll see you they and my rotors last, and if they will work on the street.

3) If you want to lowever your car you need to think about a few things. First do you want to keep your stock Nivomat load leveling shocks (FE4 or FG2). IF yes, then you should you should probabaly go with the ground controls. If not, then the rear of your car will jack itself back up again after you drive it. If you go with H&R or Eibach Pro's, you will have to either mod the rear spring perch (Wildwhl (proven) or MightyMouse (unproven so far) mods), OR you will have to switch to no load leveling shocks (non performance ones like regular CTS sport shocks FE3, monroes, or go with a more performance oriented shock like QA1's or Sach T2's).

Hope this helps,

Chris

stuckey
03-03-09, 09:23 PM
I'm assuming wildwhl's method is something that can be seen here on the forums with a little searching? Not asking for someone to do the search for me but sasking if its worth searching for...

trukk
03-03-09, 09:43 PM
I'm assuming wildwhl's method is something that can be seen here on the forums with a little searching? Not asking for someone to do the search for me but sasking if its worth searching for...


Ya, it basically removes the rubber bushing from the rear upper shock mount, allowing lowering of about .75".

-Chris

CTSV_510
03-03-09, 09:56 PM
Ya, it basically removes the rubber bushing from the rear upper shock mount, allowing lowering of about .75".

-Chris

Is this safe to do with stock springs for a small drop in the back?

shadybx7
03-04-09, 01:06 AM
Is this safe to do with stock springs for a small drop in the back?

:yeah: good idea 510

trukk
03-04-09, 08:42 AM
Is this safe to do with stock springs for a small drop in the back?


:yeah: good idea 510
Without shorter springs I'm not sure how much it would drop, a little perhaps. You'd then have to do something to drop the front. WildWhl also had a mod to move the spring perch down on the front shocks (bascailly gouge out a new perch clip in the front with a metal lathe). While modifying the front shocks is possible, it's not really cost effective, as it's easy to trash your struts, and Eibachs only run about $250 for a set of 4.

Best bet is to get some Eibach's, or H&R's if you want to go the WildWhl route. BUT you have to consider that for another $250 you can do ground controls, pick your spring rates, and have the ability to adjust the height of the car.

Don't forget to get new end links if you do lower the car though.

-Chris

CTSV_510
03-04-09, 09:43 AM
Without shorter springs I'm not sure how much it would drop, a little perhaps. You'd then have to do something to drop the front. WildWhl also had a mod to move the spring perch down on the front shocks (bascailly gouge out a new perch clip in the front with a metal lathe). While modifying the front shocks is possible, it's not really cost effective, as it's easy to trash your struts, and Eibachs only run about $250 for a set of 4.

Best bet is to get some Eibach's, or H&R's if you want to go the WildWhl route. BUT you have to consider that for another $250 you can do ground controls, pick your spring rates, and have the ability to adjust the height of the car.

Don't forget to get new end links if you do lower the car though.

-Chris


Check it out Chris - the maggie lowered my front probably about 1/2". Enough that I have to drive on a 2x10 to get my regular height jack under the front. I love the height of the front, but the back is at least 3/4" higher. That's why I was wondering about just doing the rear shock mod.


http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn240/ctsv510/front.jpg
.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn240/ctsv510/rear.jpg

And those pics are also meant to make all you garage queens and southerners cringe. :D