: anyone running rocker arms?



ccextra1976
02-28-09, 01:42 AM
trying to figure out the best/most common one's everyones running? someone today in the forum said is helped with the valve train noise (headers). If you are running them please let me know
type:
noise reduction noticed:
I know with the cam I'm going to put in I can only go 1.7

ctsv154
02-28-09, 01:58 AM
A lot of ls guys run yellow terras, harland sharp, I've seen a few Jessel guys but those are pretty pricey. I was in the same boat as you with my rockers. My cam was so tall I couldnt run anything over a 1.7 without flycutting the pistons.

I personally run the Crane adjustable race gold rollers in the 1.7 ratio. These are the accelerated lift design which means they have roughly the same overall lift but at the same lift and degree on the cam, it picks the valve up off the seat faster and lifts it higher than a standard 1.7 rocker . Its all in the geometry of the arm.

After the install 95% of my tick went away. There was still a small tick but I think it was fuel injector tick more than anything. On the stock rocker, the trunion and the rocker body clearance is way to loose if you ask me and it lets them clack. Thats my theory anyway. The Cranes are adjustable also so you can really dial them in as far as lifter preload goes.

With the new maggie and smaller cam, I can now run the 1.8's. I found a guy selling just the 1.8 rockers only (no studs, guide plates, or pushrods) for 230 and they only have 300 miles on them.

ccextra1976
02-28-09, 02:12 AM
A lot of ls guys run yellow terras, harland sharp, I've seen a few Jessel guys but those are pretty pricey. I was in the same boat as you with my rockers. My cam was so tall I couldnt run anything over a 1.7 without flycutting the pistons.

I personally run the Crane adjustable race gold rollers in the 1.7 ratio. These are the accelerated lift design which means they have roughly the same overall lift but at the same lift and degree on the cam, it picks the valve up off the seat faster and lifts it higher than a standard 1.7 rocker . Its all in the geometry of the arm.

After the install 95% of my tick went away. There was still a small tick but I think it was fuel injector tick more than anything. On the stock rocker, the trunion and the rocker body clearance is way to loose if you ask me and it lets them clack. Thats my theory anyway. The Cranes are adjustable also so you can really dial them in as far as lifter preload goes.

With the new maggie and smaller cam, I can now run the 1.8's. I found a guy selling just the 1.8 rockers only (no studs, guide plates, or pushrods) for 230 and they only have 300 miles on them.

my cam will be about what trukk is running, where did you get your's from?

heavymetals
02-28-09, 02:13 AM
I run the Comp Cams #1500 system.

Also dual springs and Ti caps.

The works.

ctsv154
02-28-09, 02:19 AM
My cam was a texas speed MS4 239/242, .649"/.609" 111 LSA

These are the rockers I have

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=153&catid=52

ctsv154
02-28-09, 02:21 AM
I run the Comp Cams #1500 system.

Also dual springs and Ti caps.

The works.

I like the shaft mounts a lot! How much did that set you back?

ctsv154
02-28-09, 02:22 AM
I run the Comp Cams #1500 system.

Also dual springs and Ti caps.

The works.

Did you relocate the coils or is the connector just hiding in there somewhere?

ccextra1976
02-28-09, 02:24 AM
I run the Comp Cams #1500 system.

Also dual springs and Ti caps.

The works.


My cam was a texas speed MS4 239/242, .649"/.609" 111 LSA

These are the rockers I have

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=153&catid=52

wow i see why you could only run 1.7 with that cam, my intake and exhaust will be about 601

heavy, you noticed the valve noise reduction too?

Naf
02-28-09, 05:15 AM
I am runnnin Yella terras and found if you decide to follow you WILL NEED longer pushrods...Add 0.080" to your stock ones for proper length...

I hope you decide to follow us rather then go cheap...If price is an issue go with summit rockers, but keep in mind you get what you pay for...

heavymetals
02-28-09, 01:43 PM
The valve noise is worse, probably due to the dual springs.

However, adjustables are the only way to go to "dial in" the motor IMHO.

The Comp Cams #1500 system isn't cheap either.

heavymetals
02-28-09, 01:47 PM
Did you relocate the coils or is the connector just hiding in there somewhere?

Coils are mounted the same.

I had to add a 1/2 inch spacer to get the rollers from hitting the valve cover.


Also had to convert the spark plug cables to right angle to clear the coils.

ctsv154
02-28-09, 02:09 PM
The valve noise is worse, probably due to the dual springs.

However, adjustables are the only way to go to "dial in" the motor IMHO.

The Comp Cams #1500 system isn't cheap either.

My Crane gold rollers seemed more quite than stock even with the patriot extreme dual springs, Ti retainers, and headers.

Stock my car just clacked away. I dont know how many people asked what was wrong with my car. After the rockers, springs, headers, and a big cam which most people say would make it worse, the engine sounded like a honda! no clack nothing! Just a little injector tick but thats it. I dont know what the difference in my set up is but I like it. Its the quietest LSx motor I've heard.

ctsv154
02-28-09, 02:11 PM
wrapping your headers should also help muffle the clack if you have it.

ccextra1976
02-28-09, 06:02 PM
The valve noise is worse, probably due to the dual springs.

However, adjustables are the only way to go to "dial in" the motor IMHO.

The Comp Cams #1500 system isn't cheap either.

:shocked2: i just priced them....awesome set-up though....i'm thinking the comp gold's will work for me...your set-up does look sick though

heavymetals
02-28-09, 06:38 PM
:shocked2: i just priced them....awesome set-up though....i'm thinking the comp gold's will work for me...your set-up does look sick though


Thanks!

Real race car parts to. :thumbsup:

darkman
02-28-09, 08:45 PM
I run the Comp Cams #1500 system.

Also dual springs and Ti caps.

The works.

Are you running the stock timing chain set up? How about push rods - stock?, or other and still stock length? I am seriously thinking about doing something like this.

heavymetals
02-28-09, 09:54 PM
Stock timing chain and according to most info, the stock setup is fine for even major hp builds.

Pushrods vary between 7.150 and 7.100.

You have to relieve the pushrod hole in the head otherwise the pushrod will rub.

Pushrods are Comp Cam.

The Comp Cams #1500 system is the bomb.

Replace the valve springs at a minimum though. IMHO.

darkman
02-28-09, 10:42 PM
Stock timing chain and according to most info, the stock setup is fine for even major hp builds.

Pushrods vary between 7.150 and 7.100.

You have to relieve the pushrod hole in the head otherwise the pushrod will rub.

Pushrods are Comp Cam.

The Comp Cams #1500 system is the bomb.

Replace the valve springs at a minimum though. IMHO.


Okay, so I will have to pull the heads to relieve the pushrod holes. I do not know what you mean on the variance in push rod lengths.

heavymetals
02-28-09, 10:50 PM
One of the benefits of adjustables.

I got it down to where I can adjust for 0.050 in pushrod length to keep the rocker adjustment right on the edge of the adjustment.

In other words, I have it so that the rockers are pretty much the same length in adjustment with any variance greater then 0.050 taken up by a longer pushrod.

This keeps the pushrod from rubbing against the hole.

darkman
02-28-09, 10:57 PM
One of the benefits of adjustables.

I got it down to where I can adjust for 0.050 in pushrod length to keep the rocker adjustment right on the edge of the adjustment.

In other words, I have it so that the rockers are pretty much the same length in adjustment with any variance greater then 0.050 taken up by a longer pushrod.

This keeps the pushrod from rubbing against the hole.

Got it, thanks.

ccextra1976
02-28-09, 11:17 PM
the set-up I'm planning right now is

PatG cam
Patriot Performance Dual Gold ValveSpring
Comp Titanium Retainers
Comp Ultra-Gold GM LS Aluminum Rocker Arms
Comp Cams Chromeoly Hardened Pushrods

945liter
03-02-09, 09:08 AM
Why run "RACE" parts and not upgrade to aleast an ls2 timing chain for 50bucks or so?

Doctornick
03-02-09, 09:28 AM
LS2 chain that much of an upgrade?

darkman
03-02-09, 09:40 AM
Well let's see - the incremental labor to do the timing chain (as opposed to just pulling the heads) is not insignificant. And once you get to the timing chain you might as well do a cam. With the cam you may need to flycut the pistons. Once you doing the pistons you might as well check the crank. If you going to look at the crank you might as well increase the stroke. And by then you might as well bore the thing. Nope that timing chain will ultimately cost me more than $50.

lollygagger8
03-02-09, 09:51 AM
If you are looking for noise reduciton, have you thought about wrapping your headers? Mine are wrapped and valve train noise is pretty dang quiet.

MIGHTYMOUSE
03-02-09, 03:34 PM
ive never thought about afermarket ls rockers as a good investment.. maybe 'noise reduction' is their nitch

heavymetals
03-02-09, 03:44 PM
ive never thought about afermarket ls rockers as a good investment.. maybe 'noise reduction' is their nitch

Adjustables are almost mandatory if you want to "dial in" the motor. IMHO

MIGHTYMOUSE
03-02-09, 03:47 PM
i would totally agree with that if we ran solid lifters, but we don't.

heavymetals
03-02-09, 03:52 PM
I don't trust the hydraulics to even out my valve train.

I prefer to be able to adjust it as dead on as I can.

Even though I replaced the lifters also (RHOADS).

Its' just another mod.

trukk
03-02-09, 03:54 PM
I'm usually all for 'overkill; when it comes to my mods. With that said, I just couldn't justify spending the coin on the shaft mount rockers (jessel, comp's, etc.)

With that said, I started looking at the next tier down, which included the Harland Sharps, Yella Terra's, Cranes, etc.

Crane went out of business, so I'd look elsewhere on those :(

Harland sharps seemed fine, with no real issues.

I ended up going with the Yella Terra 1.7" non adjustable ultralites. What I liked about these were:

Good reputation
Have very low mass on the reciprocating ends, which may be good for a bit of performance, and less wear
They are quasi-shaft mount. They come in sets of 2, connected by a shaft. All 8 on each side aren't on one shaft, but you have 4 sets of two instead. This theoretically makes them a bit more stable than the solo ones. Stability in the valve train is a good thing.
Price was right :D
I went non adjustable, because I wanted to throw out another variable that could be screwed up by the installer. KISS. If you spec the pushrods right, it's not a big deal not having the adjustables.
I also went with the Patriot Gold Extreme's, due to the super 7 locks.

My valve train makes noise. There is no doubt about it. A big part as said earlier is the bigger injectors. Another thing is the headers really add to it, as foes removing the trashcan lid, and the CAI, allowing more noise out. Finally the double springs and agressive cam lobes add to it as well. With all that said, it still is not the overbearing sewing machine on steroids that you here on some (ill planned) F-bodies.

I also don't get not upgrading the timing chain. I went adjustable in case I ever want to tinker with cam advance, retard later. I would do at a minimum an LS2 chain, but would recommend doing a Katech C5R chain. The TC is just one part you don't want to break. Screw something else up in the valve train, and you can have issues some bad some not so bad. Breaking the timming chain, is always bad and expensive.

If I had it to do over again, I probabaly wouldn't do the underdrive pulley. We'll see if I blow another alternator. If I do, it's going for sure.

-Chris

ctsv154
03-02-09, 04:37 PM
I toasted an alternator at 46k completely stock FWIW

945liter
03-03-09, 08:45 AM
Well let's see - the incremental labor to do the timing chain (as opposed to just pulling the heads) is not insignificant. And once you get to the timing chain you might as well do a cam. With the cam you may need to flycut the pistons. Once you doing the pistons you might as well check the crank. If you going to look at the crank you might as well increase the stroke. And by then you might as well bore the thing. Nope that timing chain will ultimately cost me more than $50.

I don't see it as that much work but thats just my opinion, Why would you be fly cutting your pistons? now you're taking it a little further no one here probably has a stock CI motor running a cam big enough to require flying cutting... since it wouldn't be smart with a 4000lb tank the car would be such a dog with a cam that large.

My 232/236 .620 112 is larger then most on here "MOST" and it does not require any fly cutting now who here has a T-Rex cam?

darkman
03-03-09, 09:06 AM
I don't see it as that much work but thats just my opinion, Why would you be fly cutting your pistons? now you're taking it a little further no one here probably has a stock CI motor running a cam big enough to require flying cutting... since it wouldn't be smart with a 4000lb tank the car would be such a dog with a cam that large.

My 232/236 .620 112 is larger then most on here "MOST" and it does not require any fly cutting now who here has a T-Rex cam?

Actually I was being facetious about how one mod tends to lead to another. I usually upgrade timing chains/gears anytime I upgrade valve springs because stronger springs put more pressure on the timing set.

(Changing the timing chain does however, cause you to pull the harmonic balancer, which often means the whole radiator, etc. not otherwise required to just pull the heads.)

MIGHTYMOUSE
03-03-09, 05:32 PM
i would do a chain way way before a set of rockers as it is a reliability issue.

fwiw i use factory rockers on my trans am.