: Mods



lasstss
07-03-04, 02:07 AM
Here are a few pics. I added a 150W sub amp, used speaker input and rearranged a black box.. Installed sub..XM now has bass!
Moved plate to the grille.

Just waiting for my BMR stuff

2004ctsv
07-03-04, 11:22 AM
If MD doesn't require a front license plate, I'd can the plate holder - looks like it blocks air flow where you have it.

PA doesn't have front plates so both grills on mine are wide open. Damned thing gets hot enough without taking any air flow away.

lasstss
07-03-04, 11:27 AM
2 plates in MD. With the size of the grille, I dont think airflow is a problem. Look at a firebird and vette, they have to pull air from below.

DgtalPimp
07-03-04, 12:51 PM
What about drilling a bunch of wholes in the front plate? So you can still see the plate but allow the air folw in? Or slot it?


Dgtal (dgtalpimp@pimpdaddy.com)

wildwhl
07-03-04, 01:15 PM
Where did you pull pwr and turn on for the amp from?

Also, what driver is that (Peerless?)? Finally, audio in just from the factory amp speaker leads?

I still need to complete my install and take some pics to post. I pulled my audio from the Bose leads (left the Bose sub intact, my sub enclosure is moulded into the spare tire compartment). Sounds pretty darn solid now...sealed enclosure with a single Kicker 8sl5 driven by a JBL BP300.1. Just the bass extension I was looking for without any "boom" and "rattle"...

Thanks.

Devil_concours
07-03-04, 01:47 PM
we should have a metro dc area cadillac meet

Cal
07-03-04, 03:09 PM
What about drilling a bunch of wholes in the front plate? So you can still see the plate but allow the air folw in? Or slot it?


Dgtal (dgtalpimp@pimpdaddy.com)
According to Baer slotted and cross drilled license plates do not significantly improve track performance.

BUILDINGCTSAMG
07-03-04, 04:44 PM
im up for a metro dc area meet

DgtalPimp
07-03-04, 04:50 PM
According to Baer slotted and cross drilled license plates do not significantly improve track performance.
True, but they look cool. For the record the slotted plates out gass better than the cross drilled plates.

Dgtal (dgtalpimp@pimpdaddy.com)

lasstss
07-03-04, 05:28 PM
Save your money. The v doesent need slotted or drilled rotors unless your running at Sebring!. I ran 4 laps at summit point and the brakes were tremendous. No fade or a hint of it. You would never drive this way on the street. I pulled 1.05 g's there and made plenty of 120-0 stops.

Most cars have force fans, the lower grill opening is more cosmetic. THe front grill flows plenty of air!

I bought an MTX sub amp. It is turned on by the speaker level input. Therefore only one wire. I forget the name of the driver. Its rated 300 rms and has a 4" VC. Sounds great. Running the 1 wire to the battery was a bitch though! The V firewall is tight!! :coolgleam

Blades
07-03-04, 06:10 PM
I'd yank that front license plate off.. It's like a $30 fine and cops can't pull you over solely for your missing front license plate..

Devil_concours
07-03-04, 09:42 PM
im up for a metro dc area meet
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=121631#post121631

Z06CADY
07-04-04, 01:41 AM
LASSTSS

I was told all subs need to be enclosed to work well.

wildwhl
07-04-04, 02:05 AM
LASSTSS

I was told all subs need to be enclosed to work well.

This is somewhat correct. The sub in this case is using the entire trunk as the enclosure. This is also known as an infinite baffle arrangement (some may call it free air, but neither are entirely accurate). If the Thiele-Small paramenters (characteristics) of the driver permit, it may perform quite well in this application. Some drivers are even intended to be used this way, by design, and are thus referred to as free-air or infinite baffle drivers. The reason I asked previously if it was a Peerless XLS driver is, if memory serves correctly, these were designed primarily for use in small, sealed enclosures. Peerless components are generally of very high quality and great design.

Z06cady is correct, though, in that drivers, especially sub and mid bass drivers, must have the out of phase signal cancelled out by use of enclosure (this is only one of the duties of the enclosure, the other is to act as the "suspension") to sound correct. Size and type DOES matter...but I digress. There are volumes of information available across the web...


But hey, in the end, if you like the sound, then great. I've spent many years doing the car audio thing, and have learned quite well that what sounds good/great to me isn't necessarily pleasing to the rest of the world. I try not to get too serious about it anymore, especially since factory systems (even Bose) have improved to the point of being quite good, usually only requiring a few tweaks/additions to become close to great (B+). Plus, factory integration costs thou$$$ands to replicate with aftermarket gear (making it look stock/stealth is time consuming).

Time to grill some dinner :drinker

lasstss
07-04-04, 07:14 PM
Correct on the infinite baffle. You dont need a 'BOX', Basically the trunk is kind of a ducted port, not completely sealed. I had a pair of 8" in my impala Deck and it was more than I could handle in the car for bass. Hearing bass outside of the car (kidmobiles) is pretty worthless and not quality audio as far as I am concerned. To each his own.

lasstss
07-04-04, 07:17 PM
Now if you want to know something really strange! Listen to the stereo in a Mazda MPV van with the premimum sound system! Its 150 watts and is probably one of the best systems installed by the factory that I have ever heard. Somehow, they did this one right. :hmm:

wildwhl
07-04-04, 08:16 PM
Correct on the infinite baffle. You dont need a 'BOX', Basically the trunk is kind of a ducted port, not completely sealed. I had a pair of 8" in my impala Deck and it was more than I could handle in the car for bass. Hearing bass outside of the car (kidmobiles) is pretty worthless and not quality audio as far as I am concerned. To each his own.

This is too correct. The sound outside of the vehicle, well, shouldn't even be! The cost here is that dampening and properly built enclosures are very heavy - and somewhat counterproductive in a "performance vehicle".

I use to get a kick out of going to car audio sound offs, whether they were for SPL or SQ, and see RX7's, Lambos, Corvettes, Porches, etc. that were supposed to be light weight performance cars stuffed with hundreds or even a thousand pounds of audio gear. Makes one wonder...has the owner lost the vision of what the car was intended for?

I learned along the way how to build lightweight, solid enclosures (composites), hide them, and make them efficient so that one doesn't need a rack of amps or heavier alternators with additional batteries and gigantic capacitor banks to enjoy the music. Most of that stuff only really helps the volume extend to the exterior of the vehicle - which is an annoyance and disrespectful.

Clean, stealth installs are great (this one looks pretty clean up top and I doubt the sound protrudes much outside the vehicle). IMHO, if you can tell it isn't factory, then you have failed. That's why NA motors (i.e. all motor cars) are my favorite, too. It is easy to bolt on FI in most cases, but then everyone who looks knows it is there. Same goes for the gigantic box of 12's in the back of the hatch with 4 amps, 6 caps, and 3 batteries. The same sound within reason (say below 110 db) can be had, believe it or not, entirely stealth, for thousands of dollars and pounds in some cases less, and you'll enjoy it immensely. Volume does not equal quality and enjoyment, somewhat akin to horsepower. The arguments are quite parallel - 400 hp in a PT Cruiser is, well, still a PT cruiser. Enjoy the twisties. 4,000 watts in a Honda Civic is, well, still a Honda Civic, but now everyone for a mile will know which Honda Civic has the stereo thumping...

Ahhh...I'm on a rant. REALLY need to be out driving my V. Better suit up and take the Ducati for a spin to get some of this out... :rolleyes: